sorting mixed headstamp brass

[rtracy2001]

Not quite equipment, but I figure close enough as you can't really reload without it. . .

I have a lot of mixed headstamp milsurp brass for my '06. Most of it I have sorted by year and maker into lots of 20, but I always end up with odd numbers, to the point that I have more mixed boxes than matched boxes. I got to thinking the other day (always a dangerous thing) and I was wondering, If I take all of these odds and ends, size them, trim to the same length and then sort by weight, wouldn't that imply they have nearly the same internal capacity? (The actual divisions will depend upon the measured variance of course.)

If this is the case, then would I be better served to size and trim all of the case (both mixed and matched) and sort by wieght instead of headstamp?

[357maximum]

Run with your thoughts and see what happens on target compared to the "matched" brass.....that is the only way YOU will know.

Myself...I would keep all the oddballs as one large lot for plinking at reactive targets and keep the MATCHED brass for paper/critter punching. Personally I will not buy "mixed" brass I instead choose to buy new or pay the small premium that comes with 1X matched headstamp brass that I feel has been shot through the same gun.

The brass is a HUGE variable towards consistency and consistency is accuracy...why start off on the wrong foot?

[geargnasher]

The thing that seems to affect MY shooting consistency with mixed brass is what it was fired in the first time more than headstamp. I sort range pickups by headstamp, but those that are obviously fired from the same gun (usually found with box, also), or those bought new and fired in MY gun only, seem to group better than even fully-resized stuff fired in random chambers. The case rims always end up off-center in different amounts from the base of the head, and indexing is required for best consistency. Internal volume, as long as it's close, is much less important than concentricity, chamber fit, neck uniformity, and neck hardness consistency.

Like Michael said, you'll have to do your own comparison in YOUR gun to see, shooting sorted batches vs. batches with extreme variances.

Gear

[noylj]

What every reloader should do is prove to themselves what matters.
Is your rifle a custom chambered, heavy barrel rifle made for long-range competition?
If not, you may see absolutely NO effect based on head stamp out to at least 300 yards.
Why play games without seeing if it makes any difference. For me, it is more important to spend time behind the trigger trying to eliminate my nerves and body variables then it does to worry about how many angels can dance on the head of pin and sweat the whole reloading set-up.
My hunting rifles are surprisingly accurate and surprisingly don't care about case prep...but my shooting is only at 100-200 yards.

[zuke]

My thought's are keep to the same lot/type for scope's,but for offhand fun and plinking any brass will do

[o6Patient]

For serious shooting like hunting I not only would want the same brand, but from the same lot.
It all boils down to internal volume, in some cases there may not be much difference and in
some there might be more. I would keep mixed matched (as already said) for practice and plinking
and volume back up for the zombie attacks. :Fire:

[hemiallen]

It depends on your needs. Is this for a Garand or a benchrest rifle? For a semi-auto, trim and shoot, if for a bench gun, you probably wouldn't be asking as most benchrest guys are anal about sorting brass for accuracy, same bullet tension, etc.

Allen

[rtracy2001]

It depends on your needs. Is this for a Garand or a benchrest rifle? For a semi-auto, trim and shoot, if for a bench gun, you probably wouldn't be asking as most benchrest guys are anal about sorting brass for accuracy, same bullet tension, etc.

Allen

Bolt guns, Savage 110 and an old commercial Mauser that mey dad bought when he was a kid (nicnamed Bruise BTW).