Meehanite or Aluminum

[45Spades]

Which mold material do I need in a mold from NEI? My guess is that for certain applications that aluminum is preferred over Meehanite and the same for Meehanite over aluminum. So my question is what do I need and why? And when is one material better than the other?

Spades

[Mark]

Good question and I don't know the answer but when I was faced with that same question, I decided on aluminum. At that time (in the Walt years), it was about cost. After using them, I don't second guess the answer. The aluminum is a higher quality than that used by Lee and the molds work great.
Good luck,
Mark

[grumpy one]

I don't think there is a right answer here - it depends on what is important to you. Aluminium is more easily damaged by abuse, whereas iron rusts, is heavier, and takes a bit longer to warm up.

For me, if I were pretty sure I would make a vast number of bullets with this mould, or I were focused on resale value, I'd go with iron. However I have an el cheapo single cavity Lee that I wouldn't be without: after Leementing and lapping to size, it is the quickest-warming, fastest-operating mould I have, and the nearest to foolproof. After buying it second-hand I've made maybe 700 bullets with it and it is still getting better. Best of all, if I make a fatal error and trash the thing I won't feel badly about it. Meanwhile keeping my iron moulds from rusting - not always successfully - is an ongoing irritation.

[montana_charlie]

I wasn't aware of NEI back during the Walt years, so I never had dealings with the man. But I have been told that he was asked a similar question...about using aluminum or meehanite iron.

His answer was (paraphrasing) that he thought aluminum was a fine material in all respects. But, as long as people would pay the extra money...he would continue to cut iron moulds.

I heard this after I had purchased my first NEI mould, and before I purchased the second one...which is also aluminum.
CM

[felix]

GO, no problem. Get an osage orange (cuticle stick from wife) stick and rub moly powder into and around that mold with force. Get the mold sticky clean first and well rinsed by using distilled water (if easy to obtain), and after throughly dry get after it. Should take an hour per mold to moly the thing. Wipe off all loose stuff with a clean rag. The moly will electronically adhear to the pours forever, preventing all troubles. MolyKote G powder. DowCorning. ... felix

[Bass Ackward]

Mold material choice on my end is strictly a heat disapation issue. And I don't like to run my molds or my mixes too hot just to get filout. Heat is hard both on the pot and over heating a mold can cause warpage.

Steel holds the heat best and aluminum transfers it the fastest.

Bullets 30 caliber and down would get steel. I like brass best from 30 caliber up to stuff weighing 350-400 grains. Then from 400 up, it's aluminum unless I wanted to laddle heavy bullets using pure lead or lead tin mixes, then I would go back to steel.

So any recommendation would be based on bullet / caliber which you don't mention.

[45Spades]

Bass: Intended bullets .45/310 and .500/400 to 450

[Dale53]

I have both iron and aluminum moulds. I cast well with both. All moulds are a bit individuals, but there is no particular problem with either material. I take care of my moulds and am careful using them. I treat them with as much care in handling as I do any fine. precision item. They will only last three lifetimes with care.

I talked with Walt Melander (have several NEI aluminum moulds) and can confirm his quote above.

Dale53

[Bass Ackward]

Bass: Intended bullets .45/310 and .500/400 to 450

Spade,

The guys are right. You can use anything for anything if you have too. Then just live with the personalities each creates.

Just understand that casters are cheap and each one LOVES to hear what he wants to hear. (that cheap is best) Aluminum is generally cheaper to buy machined blocks, and faster and easier to machine / cut for you. Thus it is less hard on cherries that have to be purchased or made too. So you can make one hell of a lot more aluminum molds over a years time than you can make steel. And if you bugger one up or have the cavities warp which happens from time to time, then it hurts less to chuck a set of aluminum blocks. So the profit margin is WAY more on aluminum molds.

If I was making both mold materials you can bet your butt I would tell you aluminum WAS the way to go. :grin:

Spade, I'd go with aluminum for both since they don't do brass. They will give you the most uniformity with the widest choice of mixes.

[Cherokee]

I've had NEI aluminum molds since Walt started making them. Never had a problem with usability of a mold from him. I can say that of the vast majority of the iron molds I have from Lyman, RCBS, Saeco and recient Lee aluminum molds. The Mountain Mold I have is aluminum and trouble free. I want aluminum if its available.

[TAWILDCATT]

I believe all mold makes turn out good quality molds Its your choice as to what you want to pay.if you take care of your tools they will all last a life time.I have molds from 1890s and a number of Lee molds.learn what they like and they will
work for you.:coffee: :Fire:

[LAH]

I use both from NEI and love them all.........Creeker