Boolits stuck in mold

[Mark]

I purchased a single cavity Ideal 429244 mold off of epay (bad deal all around, but that is another story). The boolits stick to the mold block on every cast. Furthermore, they stick to the same side of the block (the side with the sprue plate). The block requires a good rap or two (sometimes three) to get them out. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance,
Mark

[IcerUSA]

Check out the sticky on Leementing, might have a small burr on that half of the mold and a little polishing might just do the trick to let them fall right out.

[38-55]

Hey Mark,
Check for a burr like icer said... Take a straight pin and clean out air vent lines. Don't hit the block to loosen the bullet, hit the hinge pin on the handles. You can really screw up a mold by beating on them.. If that all doesn't work try a different alloy/heat combo or flux the metal. I find this is the best way to fix the problems that you just can't seem to find any cause for. Oh and if the mold gets to hot it can cause one side or the other to 'stick' til the bullet cools enough to shrink. You should really enjoy that boolit, it's been a fave of mine for years in my 44's.. 18 gns of 2400 is a pretty good load I've found
Enjoy
Calvin

[Bullshop]

There is one problem that causes boolits to stick in the mold and I dont know of a cure for it. Its when the cavity is cut off center of the parting line. When this happens the opening on one side at the face of the cavity is smaller than the widest point of the boolit so it can not fall out. The boolit will always stay in the same side because on the other side the face is the widest point. These kind of molds just keep getting dumped on the auctions.
BIC/BS

[Maven]

Mark, Try the above suggestions, but if they don't cure the problem, try these: Get a few new/clean .44cal. copper bore brushes, chuck one in a variable speed electric drill and rotate at moderate rpm for a minute or two in each direction in the offending cavity. (Resign yourself to ruining one or two brushes.) If necessary, clean and degrease the mold, then after casting a few bullets (mostly to warm the mold), smoke it with either a butane lighter or wooden matches. If bullets continue to stick, clean the cavity/cavities again with denatured alcohol or isopropyl (rubbing)alcohol and spray each with a light, but even coat of dry graphite film (NAPA dgf 123 is ideal and you can remove it with alcohol if necessary.). All of the suggested remedies should cure the problem.

[Cimarron Red]

The condition may be as Bullshop has described. I have two or three Lyman moulds with a similar problem. In my case, the mould cavities were cut with the halves offset by a few thoudandths. It's hard to imagine how this happens when the cavities are cut by a cherry. But, for this reason I'll buy no more Lyman moulds.

[Bass Ackward]

Man, there can be a bazillion reasons for this that aren't even mentioned yet. Like pins too far out or the holes in the other side elongated. This comes from mold abuse opening and closing or not using any lube on the pins. Usually it occurs in the hole farthest away from the hinge.

Or having the sprue plate too tight and working a burr on the top of the blocks. This does usually occur more on the plate half and usually the cavity closest to the hinge screw. The sprue plate should swing fairly freely when cold if you tilt the mold up. If it doesn't, look hard around the base.

Could be running the mold a little too hot too. Or it could be the mix. Most bullets should contract a little when they solidify. The more rich the mix, the less shrinkage you will get and a mold that worked fine with WW, hangs up with the enriched mix until you correct it.

And the list goes on and on. You are going to have to sit down and become one with your mold grasshopper. Also study your bullets for clues. If the cavities ARE off center, your pretty much destined to tap your life away. But there could be a lot of correctable stuff too.

[Mark]

Thanks for the advice. I will try what was recommended here and report back. Just as a note: my alloy drops a bullet that weighs 255 grains with the gas check. Does that sound about right compared to the alloys you guys use?
Thanks again,
mark j