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warf73
11-11-2012, 10:31 AM
Is there any special care needed for a nickel finished 586 S&W? Looked at one yesterday at a pawn shop, it looked very sharp.
I normally don't get hung up on shinny but dang that was a pretty nickel 586. I've heard horror stories about nickel peeling up/off of older S&W's but didn't know if that do to bad care or poor finish on S&W's part.

Thanks Warf

Olevern
11-11-2012, 02:46 PM
Perhaps someone who has had personal experience will chime in here, but I have (with one exception)never purchased a nickel plated Smith. I have heard too many horror stories about certain oils, cleaners and preservatives getting under and peeling or otherwise chemically interacting with the finish. Again, only second hand anicdotal information, no first hand information.

Oh, the one that I did purchase was a nickel plated Smith 38 snub nose model 38. Finish on that one was already damaged when I picked it up and I have no way of knowing what did it, but it don't look pretty. I have carried it as it is, having found that it would be prohibitively expensive to refinish and the finish doesn't effect how it performs. Also, when I carry it, it is concealed so nobody would see it except the bad guys.

http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac56/Olevern/DSC_7189.gif

MtGun44
11-11-2012, 04:41 PM
The only issue that I am aware of is that copper remover type of gun cleaners, even
Hoppe's #9, should not remain on the finish for long periods. The same chemicals that
remove copper will remove the nickel. So you can clean with Hoppes but don't wipe it
all over and leave it.

Other than that, I think nickel is a slick and self lubricating finish. I think the best
possible magazines for semiautos are nickel plated.

Bill

30calflash
11-12-2012, 09:04 PM
The only issue that I am aware of is that copper remover type of gun cleaners, even
Hoppe's #9, should not remain on the finish for long periods. The same chemicals that
remove copper will remove the nickel. So you can clean with Hoppes but don't wipe it
all over and leave it.


Bill

X2 on what Bill said. When cleaning you want ALL of the Hoppes#9 removed. And make sure that you have a dedicated soft case for that revolver as traces of #9 can get imbedded in the interior of a case from other firearms that were cleaned with #9. When this happens with nickle plating you'll start to see a cloudy look to your plated firearm.

There have been horror stories on guys soaking the cylinder in #9, or other cleaners, overnight to find the plating GONE!

Clean it well and it will last a long time.

Milsurp Junkie
11-12-2012, 09:34 PM
If I am not mistaken, nickel plating is often placed over a copper plating, and then the iron/steel to allow it to adhere better. If there is a scratch in the nickel, then any of the copper removing solvents will have access to the copper underneath, and that is where the damage is done.

milsurp junkie

km101
11-12-2012, 10:14 PM
In has been my experience that nickel is a good durable finish as long as it it cared for properly. Do not leave any type of copper solvent type bore cleaner or "penetrating oil" on the nickel. After cleaning with any bore solvent I wipe my nickel guns down with alcohol to remove any penetrant type oil or solvent. Then i wipe with a light oil (Remoil, etc).

MtGun44
11-13-2012, 01:03 AM
I'm about certain that the Smith Airweight in the pic is NOT nickel plated, but anodized
aluminum frame with a teflon or similar coating. I have a lightweight Commander from Colt
that has the same little corrosion issues from years of CCW and sweat. Anodized
aluminum with a clearcoat, not plated.

Bill

45-70 Chevroner
11-14-2012, 12:19 AM
I have a 4 screw Nickle plated pre Model 29 44 mag. This gun was bought with blued finish and my brother sent it back to Smith and Wesson about 1960 and had it nickled plated. My brother bought it in I think 1957 or early 58. I got it after his death in 2005. It is still in very good to excellent condition. I don't know what he cleaned it with through all the years he owned it but I have used Hoppe's #9, WD 40, mineral spirits and others. I have also used green pan cleaning pads on the front of the cylinder to remove the powder residue as it is hard to get off with just about any thing. I do though wipe it clean when finished. There is no lifting of the nickle at all.