BFR grip frame screw

[Thor's Daddy]

Dang that thing is SHORT! Mine fell out today at the range and I only realized how crazy short they are when putting it back in. It really only contacts a couple threads in the frame.

Anyone know of a worthy replacement, or has anyone talked to MRI about getting one that's a bit longer?

I don't want to slap a replacement in there only to find out the hard way that it's not strong enough.

[saz]

I had the same thing happen 2 days ago.
I was kinda lucky that it fell out at home instead of getting lost at the range.

[44man]

The front screw is too short and can strip. I have been after MR to change it. I made my own screws from Allen head machine screws to reach the top of the frames. So far the threads in the gun have not been damaged.
I have contacted Jim Tertin a few times about it. Maybe new guns have longer screws, I don't know. I try hard.
That screw has been a pain in my side so I just make my own.
I am going to talk to Jim again.

[bassnbuck]

Mine fell out also. I bought a longer socket head screw and filed it down to fit. Now if the guys at magnum research get done deer hunting and get my bfr back to me.

[Whiterabbit]

My 500 JRH screw came out. MRI is away from the phone right now. Does anyone know off the top of their head what the thread pitch is? I can get some good SS screws from fastenal and make my own.

[44man]

I think it was a standard 6-32 but i will not take mine out to measure. I had to change the head to fit. I think the original only engaged two threads.
I pulled the cylinder on my .500 JRH , I do not think I had to change it and the end of the screw is at the top of the frame. Maybe they listened. I had to change the .475 and 45-70 screws.
Do later guns have the right screw?

[bassnbuck]

White Rabbit, it`s been a wile since I bought the socket head screw[also from fastenal]. Do'nt remember the size. Just take the old one with you. The replacement will need to be filed down to clear the cylinder. So far mine has stayed tight. It is a standard thread.

[Whiterabbit]

OK good. Hopefully it's 6-32 not 6-40 or other tight pitch standard. I don't have the hardware in front of me so I can't check real quick, but I do remember the threads looking awfully coarse. The OEM screws looked like junk. I have some awesome hexavalent chrome coated 6/32's I have access to if that's the right pitch. Would help spalling (sp?) as well.

Thanks guys.

[pietro]

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I would get Ruger Super Blackhawk gripframe screws - since (AFAIK) Ruger's Pine Tree Casting division makes the frames for the BFR.



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[bosterr]

The serial number of my .475 is JT129XX and the screw is nearly to the top of the hole in the cylinder opening. It looks like MRI finally listened to Jim.

[Whiterabbit]

Mine is BR (or B something, but not JT). The screw was very, very short.

What IS the difference between JT and BR serial numbered BFR's?

[bosterr]

While trying to research a Hogue rubber grip for mine, I found out that the JT grip frame is different as in larger. Mine has only the cylinder base pin with the locking screw. Does yours have the plunger like the Rugers?

[Whiterabbit]

no plunger. It's NOT the DM frame. DM is the older design. JT is the new.... mine is BR.... Medium?

[bosterr]

I would guess you're right that the BR is right before the JT. When I was shopping for mine on GunBroker, I saw one with the base pin plunger, a 454 Casull. I don't recall it's serial number prefix.

[44man]

Ruger makes the castings but the BFR's do NOT use Ruger screws. Ruger never used an Allen head. They just slipped up with the front screw. Ruger screws will not fit. Thread is different. I believe Ruger is 40 TPI. They have screwdriver slots.

[dubber123]

Just checked my brothers, it is a JT prefix, didn't note the serial #. It only had 2 threads worth of contact, we repalced his with a Torx head screw from a Leupold scope ring set. Flat underside to the screw head, right threads, and only a touch long, which a file cured.

[Whiterabbit]

you guys were right by the way. 6-32. replaced it with an anti-spawl screw, good to go.

[Rifle 57]

You might try a little finger nail polish or blue lock tight on the threads it might help them to stay in.

[44man]

I use RED Loc- Tite on all. I don't want any screw to move. It still comes loose when needed. You can't get tough enough for recoil.

[dubber123]

I use RED Loc- Tite on all. I don't want any screw to move. It still comes loose when needed. You can't get tough enough for recoil.

My 4-3/4" .475 would rattle all the grip frame screws loose within 3 cylinders full. Red Loctite and they haven't moved since. A little heat and Red comes loose with no problem.

[44man]

Yes, get a rod of copper or brass the size of the screw head, heat red hot and hold on the head. Even a screw epoxied in will come loose.
But red Loc Tite has always come loose with the right screwdriver. It is just not that tough.

[Whiterabbit]

So, I pursued a double solution. I went and sourced really nice coated fasteners in 6-32 for replacements while simultaneously calling the company and ordering a full set of replacements (at $3 each, ouch. But still a factory part...). The replacements arrived yesterday. I have to say, they look much better than what came out of the gun, but not even close to the coated industrial fasteners I have now.

Maybe snobbish, but I have to say that the past few years have really taught me that there is a big difference in fastener quality out there, and the good stuff (whether expensive or not, just the 'good' stuff) really makes a difference.

[44man]

Yes, I am experienced in aerospace fasteners and head markings on bolts for strength. You can't go to Home Depot and find more then soft junk.
Gun screws are very tough and are not from a corner store.

[odis]

My JT series made in the precision center in 2009 has a front screw that goes all the way to the last thread. It's never loosened with the 5 shot cylinder 45colt loads with heavy slugs.