S&W DA Feel

[warf73]

I own a Ruger SP101 and hate the trigger (even after trigger job) compared to my dad’s model 66. I love the feel of the 66 and 686 action when doing double action shooting.... I just love it.

I would like a 357mag with a 4" ~5" barrel with the S&W action; (feel) Do any of the lower cost revolver manufactures make a S&W action? Like Taurus, EAA, Charter Arms? Or does everyone else make their actions like Ruger?

I like the looks of the:
CHARTER ARMS TARGET BULLDOG $425
TAURUS 627 $475
EAA Windicator $275

This is just an inquiry as the firearm wouldn’t be purchased until after the first of the year but would like to do my home work before I drop cash on one. It will be used for target shooting 25 yards and in, using 158 SWC.

Thanks

[I'll Make Mine]

They've gotten spendy over the years, but Dan Wesson revolvers from the 1970s and 1980s have very good DA triggers (if mine is any example); I can shoot my Model 15 (.357 Magnum) about as accurately at 50 yards in DA as I can locking the hammer back.

[2shot]

You can get a good used S&W for the prices you have listed for Charter Arms, Taurus and EEA.

Shop smart and find a little used S&W Model 66 if that's what you like. There are lots of them out there you just have to look and be patient.


2shot

[warf73]

You can get a good used S&W for the prices you have listed for Charter Arms, Taurus and EEA.

Shop smart and find a little used S&W Model 66 if that's what you like. There are lots of them out there you just have to look and be patient.


2shot

I would have agreed with you 1 year ago but most used 66's and 686 are running within $100 of a new one $700 now. Sadly I'm thinking when I get closer to the purchase date used guns will be same price as new if you can still find a new one then.

[warf73]

I thought (really don't know) that L frames were 41 mags and 44 specials, and K frames were 357 mag, and J frames were 38 special.
I've allot to learn about S&W revolvers, one thing I do know is I've always like the DA feel of most all of them I've handled.

[Dan Cash]

Warf73,
You get what you pay for usually. In my experience, the Charter and Tarus revolvers are too crudely fitted to achieve a good DA trigger pull and the heat treat is too inconcistent to manitain a decent pull if one were achieved. Can't say about the EAA as have never touched one. Find a good Smith, grit your teeth and buy it. It will be a life long companion.

[warf73]

Warf73,
Find a good Smith, grit your teeth and buy it. It will be a life long companion.
Probably what I'll have to do because I am after a certain feel when the trigger is squeezed.
Just didn't know about the other manufacturers out there.

[bobthenailer]

For most DA revolver shooters only a S&W will do ! just check and see what probley 99% of the competive DA revolver shooters use! YOU GUESSED IT, S&W !

[captaint]

Back in the 70's, when I bought my Dan Wesson, I had the trigger and hammer hardchromed. The double action squeeze is quite nice and durable. Mike

[kweidner]

+1 on the DW advice. The second lightest trigger I own in a revolver is in my gold series DW 15-2. That being said, #1 is a SW 29 that no longer resembles it's original configuration. The smoothness of the trigger and outstanding accuracy were not because of Smith but of Mr. McCullough in Alabama. My DW has no tinkering done to it and will shoot with most custom rigs. I lucked into that one at a gun show. Guy wanted my Anchutz Achiever much more than he wanted the gold series DW. Another + on the DW is the availability of bbl configurations from EWK arms. If it doesn't shoot, less than $100 later you can have a brand new bbl. I like that option.

K

[BCRider]

Warf, the 586 and 686 are both L frames and they are both chambered in .357Mag.

The .44's and .45's are actually all done in N frames which are a hair bigger than the L. And I'm pretty sure the .41Mag is an N as well. Even then though you can still get N frames in .357. Examples are the 27, 28 and the 7 and 8 shot guns like the 627+.

As the guys are saying if you're shooting primarily magnums then go for an L or N frame. If mostly .38's with a few mags here and there a K frame is very nice.

Pricing wise if you can live with a 6 inch barrel they tend to be cheaper because they aren't really suitable for CC. And for target shooting the extra sights baseline length gives you some help. But if you are looking at using the gun in any matches then you may be stuck with using a shorter barrel.

And yeah, buy the right gun and in the end it'll be cheaper for a few reasons. First off if you gamble with another lesser platform and don't like it then you take a loss when you sell it. And even if you talk yourself into considering it as "good enough" it'll still be more expensive because you'll know that it's not as nice a trigger and so you won't shoot it as much. And no gun is more expensive than one which sits in the cabinet and is hardly ever shot. Meanwhile a gun which you take to the range for every trip and enjoy soon becomes an inexpensive option based on the cost per shot.

Finally, life is too short to shoot cheap guns. Treat yourself. Nothing else will do anyway since you've shot your dad's gun and so there's simply no hiding the difference.

[ReloaderFred]

The S&W J Frames are all pocket pistols, or small frame, Model 36, 37, 60, etc.

The S&W K Frames are mostly .38/.357, i.e.; Models 10, 13, 14, 15, 17(.22 cal.), 19, 65, 66, 67, etc.

The S&W L Frames are the larger frame .38/.357, Models 586, 686, etc., but have the same grip as the K Frames.

The S&W N Frames are for the magnum and larger calibers, Models 27 & 28 (.38/.357), 24, 25, 29, 57, 58, 610, 624, 625, 629, 657, etc.

The S&W X Frames are the monster magnums.

I know I've forgotten some of the models, and I don't know the newer models at all, but this will give you a starting point in your quest for one of the finest double action revolvers ever made.

I recently bought a 2" Model 10 in 95%, for $340, and a NIB 4" Model 686 for $400.00, so there are deals out there. Just be patient and let people know what you're looking for.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[ItZaLLgooD]

S+W 66's and 686's go for less than $500 around here at gunshows. As long as you know what to look for you can get a good deal on an older gun. I got my 66 no dash for $300.

[tacklebury]

Brand new from Bud's just $655

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/21_39_72/products_id/26249/Smith+%26+Wesson+686+.357+Mag+6%22%2C+6+round

[warf73]

Brand new from Bud's just $655

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/21_39_72/products_id/26249/Smith+%26+Wesson+686+.357+Mag+6%22%2C+6+round

Yup the 6" is cheaper than the 4", I also want to try and stay away from the + 686's.

[Jack Stanley]

I don't get Shotgun News anymore but I think it was J&G sales that had police trade-ins . Smith &Wessons were very reasonably priced and the deal got better if you bought three or more :wink:

I'm with the idea of buy once cry once , a little more cash up front will normally save cash later on . Of course if one is happy with the gun as it is there are lots of choices out there , pay your money take your chances .

My first double action was a model twenty-seven with a five inch barrel that I bought in 1977 . Back then I had opportunity to shoot offerings from all the common makers , for some reason I really liked the S&W double action . Later in the eighties I met a man that shot PPC and had a model ten that was turned into a race gun for the sport . The single action capability had been taken out of the gun and the result was THE best double action you'll ever find .

There is a lot of good things that come from working on good equipment by a man who is a gunsmith and not a gun butcher .

Jack

[Mal Paso]

warf73
I HATED the trigger on my Redhawk. Tried a Pachmayr Decelerator which lengthened the pull and man what a difference! Hard to beat the Smith trigger for easy tuning but $26 for grips may get you by for a while. Make my Rehhawk a whole different gun!

[km101]

Go ahead and pony-up for the S&W. You will never be happy with a substitute, and you will spend money on a cheaper gun trying to make it feel as good as the Smith. Start out with what you will end up with!!

[ovendoctor]

don't expect the ride of a ''Crown vic'' wen ya buy a ford taurs :groner:

out of the box the action of a S&W is smooth as silk [at least everyone I have/had is]

and yes there's deals to be had just be ready with the $$$

Doc.

[meshugunner]

I hear the Ruger Security Six had a very nice trigger. Someone is selling three nice looking shooter quality Security Six's on the RugerForum Classifieds for $425. Had to stop myself from picking one up.

I own a 686+ with a 4" barrel. I sent it back to S&W because it has a timing problem with one chamber. If I had it to do over, I would buy the regular 6 shot version. I also ordered their Master Action package while it's in the shop. IMO, on handgun, the trigger is everything.

[williamwaco]

I bought my first Ruger DA a couple of months ago. SP100

I think the DA trigger is excellent. It is not the same as the Smith but every bit as good.

The only DA I have ever fired that had a better DA pull was the original Colt Python - circa 1970.


.

[rbuck351]

I have 2 M28 S&Ws both with very nice factory DA triggers. I paid $250 each but they have gone up a bit since then. It may take a while but you should be able to pick up a used one for around $450/$500 if you're willing to buy one that is a little rough on the edges. I also have a Colt Officers Model 38Special built in the 50s that also has a very nice DA trigger. The problem is quailty is expensive to produce. But if you are going to shoot DA revolver you are just not going to be happy with a second rate trigger. If you have to scrimp and save to get a top quality gun you better just do it or you will be sorry.

[warf73]

I've been watching a few auction sites for new and used 66,686,27 and 28's. So far I've been out bid on everything but that's OK I'll win a bid sooner or later :)

[MakeMineA10mm]

Good choices. I've had or tried them all, including Colt Python, Ruger GP100, and various frame-sizes of Smiths. By FAR, the K- and L-frame Smiths are the best DA trigger to be had. By FAR!

N-frame's single-action is hard to beat, but DA they are not quite as good as K and Ls.

[lbaize3]

Yep, go with the Smith. Not only are they better out of the box, they are easy to tune. You can find several locations on the net that tell you how to tune a Smith. Just take your time, polish a bit and then reassemble and try.... Remember, you can't replace the metal once it is removed. Also, I suggest that you leave the hammer alone. Those things are very expensive to replace. (all parts can be found at Brownells)

[bcp477]

What you need is an S&W Model 13. A .357 mag "version" of the good old Model 10. These (as well as the M10) have among the best triggers of any S&W's - and are workhorse (simple and dead nuts reliable) guns. The M13's have been going up in value and can be hard to find - but they are out there. As a blued gun, they are not quite as expensive as the stainless version (Model 65, 66 ?....I can't remember).....and not quite as desirable to collectors.

[PS Paul]

Some very sound advice on this thread. I have an '80's security six with no triggerwork and the double-action is not as smooth as most out of the box smiths.... An employee of mine had a trigger job done to his security six and it is very smooth, but NOT as smooth as most smith's with triggerwork, if that makes sense?

In other words, you likely will NEVER get any double action revolver, outside of DW, to beat a smith.

[cuzinbruce]

The older, pre-WWII, Smith K frames, had the long double action. 1905's. etc. After the war, they came out with the short action we have now. I prefer the older long action for my double action shooting.

[LouisianaMan]

If 38 Special will do the trick for you, price is a consideration & you plan to shoot 158g SWC's anyway, get a nice used Model 10. Bud's has police trade-ins that probably look kinda rough, but still shoot great, for under $300.

I have a Victory with the old-style action mentioned above, and a modern-era Model 10, and I honestly think that I naturally shoot them better than any other handguns I've ever owned. Not sure which I like better--they're both great.

[warf73]

If 38 Special will do the trick for you, price is a consideration & you plan to shoot 158g SWC's anyway, get a nice used Model 10. Bud's has police trade-ins that probably look kinda rough, but still shoot great, for under $300.

The only problem is I've bought up and have been given a lot of 357 mag brass over the years (why I bought the SP 101). I really have no desire to go with a 38 spec only gun, not that there not good guns just not what I'm after. And I have 0 desire for a fixed sighted revolver, since I'm wanting to use it for target shooting.

[9.3X62AL]

The only problem is I've bought up and have been given a lot of 357 mag brass over the years (why I bought the SP 101). I really have no desire to go with a 38 spec only gun, not that there not good guns just not what I'm after. And I have 0 desire for a fixed sighted revolver, since I'm wanting to use it for target shooting.

You sound like a 686 buyer, to me. Buy once, cry once, and enjoy the revolver for the rest of your life.

[LouisianaMan]

Oops, guess I missed a few steps! Well, the .357 chambering will let you do just about anything you want, and the Ruger platform can handle just about anything. I had a .327 and a .357 SP-101 a few years back, and IIRC their rear sights were only adjustable for windage. Helpful, but limited if the shooter is changing bullet weights or velocities very dramatically.

If you wind up with the Smiths you're looking for, you can dial in any combo you want. Haven't yet touched a K or L frame with a bad trigger, and the 2 1/2" Mod 686 I tried a short time ago was addictive.