Accurate mold problem

[melloairman]

Feel I need to say something about the pivot screw arrangement . I have 4 of Toms molds . He has been good to deal with to this point . The last mold was a newer mold with the set screw that holds the pivot screw tight . From the start I could not keep the pivot screw from loosening . Tom said to remove the set screw and put loctite on it and not to be afraid to tighten it as much as possible . So I did . Bullets would not group out of the mold not his fault he did what I asked when I ordered the mold . So I sent it back to him to have the mold cut to a larger caliber . He e-maild me and told me that the set screw deformed the pivot screw threads and the pivot screw can not be removed . Which tells me that he is not using a reduced shank pivot screw and the set screw is contacting the pivot threads . Not good in my opinion a bad design. As I told him . If any one ever wants to remove the cutter from one of his molds they may damage the mold in doing so . I had a useless mold and he is one of the few that will recut a mold so in a way I am out nothing . But as I told him until I know he has corrected this flaw I will not buy any more of his molds . To big of a risk if I ever want to remove the cutter . Marvin

[Ben]

Is there a reason that a piece of brass or copper could not be placed between the set screw and the threads and avoid this problem ?

RCBS molds at one time ( may still be ? ? ) were shipped with this from the factory.

[runfiverun]

dillons set screw for the 550 has a brass tip on it,which works great for off-n-on,off-n-on.
for my molds i use a piece or two of #6 chilled shot in the set screw holes so i can adjust them till i get them where i want them.

[blaser.306]

I also use a pellet or two of shot on all my reloading dies that have a set screw that contacts the threads. Holds tight and wont mark the finnish. If heat is a concern you could try and nip off a small piece of the end of a brass brasing rod and use that instead.

[smoked turkey]

I also use a small #7 1/2 shot. Prior to dropping it in the set screw hole I squeeze it down to flatten it a bit. Seems to work just fine on the several molds I have done this on. I believe RCBS uses a small wafer of brass (?) behind the set screw on some of their die rings. Same principal.

[btroj]

A piece of copper wire or shot has long been used in situations like this.

[RobS]

Is there a reason that a piece of brass or copper could not be placed between the set screw and the threads and avoid this problem ?

RCBS molds at one time ( may still be ? ? ) were shipped with this from the factory.

Yep, small piece of brass for protecting the treads.

[melloairman]

Is there a reason that a piece of brass or copper could not be placed between the set screw and the threads and avoid this problem ?

RCBS molds at one time ( may still be ? ? ) were shipped with this from the factory.

When I bought the mold I did not take it a part to see if the set screw contacted the threads . I assumed that that they did not . Nor was I told when I spoke to Tom about the problem I was having that the threads were in contact with the set screw . And to deal with it as you have stated . I was told to not be afraid of stripping the threads just tighten it as much as you can .There for I did not think of looking at the contact area when I removed the set screw and loctited it which IMO should not have to be done . A lesson well learned . And a flaw that I hope gets delt with .Marvin

[TomAM]

Mello, I save my emails, and this is the actual exchange:

"Tom the small set screw that is used to keep the cutter plate screw in place will not stay tight . Do you have a quick fix for this ."

My response:

"Have you tried LocTite?"


I've never told anyone to bear down on a screw as hard as they can.

[melloairman]

Your response was . Do not be afraid to tighten it up . I had another customer have this problem . And when he sent me the mold it was so tight that I broke a allen wrench getting it out . I was really surprised that the block did not strip out . So do not worry about over tightening it . .Going back and forth about this will not repair my mold or fix the flaw in your molds for other customers . I never had a problem with your first pivot screws . But this was not right in the first place and your advice worsened my situation . When you get the bug out of this let me know and I will return and start to send you clients again .Marvin

[44man]

I do it two ways. I remove the threads at the setscrew spot or use copper wire or brass to go against the threads.
Setscrews are hard and damage threads.

[popper]

I have 2 from him, no problems. I'm wanting to get another. I do know how to properly fix problems like that.

[white eagle]

Mello I didn't know you were so connected
first I must say that I have bought molds from Tom from the very beginning
I have never had one problem with a set screw...... ever
I have never had to do anything to these molds other than pour lead into them and drop boolits
Tom has a great customer service and will take care of most all reasonable requests and problems...I do believe that the op may be mechanically challenged and effed things up on the mold and wants something new or different because his original didn't work as planned
I may be wrong but well.............

[dnotarianni]

Hey Tom Took a while but you finally got your first complaint.

[bigboredad]

there's one in every group

[geargnasher]

Feel I need to say something about the pivot screw arrangement . I have 4 of Toms molds . He has been good to deal with to this point . The last mold was a newer mold with the set screw that holds the pivot screw tight . From the start I could not keep the pivot screw from loosening . Tom said to remove the set screw and put loctite on it and not to be afraid to tighten it as much as possible . So I did . Bullets would not group out of the mold not his fault he did what I asked when I ordered the mold . So I sent it back to him to have the mold cut to a larger caliber . He e-maild me and told me that the set screw deformed the pivot screw threads and the pivot screw can not be removed . Which tells me that he is not using a reduced shank pivot screw and the set screw is contacting the pivot threads . Not good in my opinion a bad design. As I told him . If any one ever wants to remove the cutter from one of his molds they may damage the mold in doing so . I had a useless mold and he is one of the few that will recut a mold so in a way I am out nothing . But as I told him until I know he has corrected this flaw I will not buy any more of his molds . To big of a risk if I ever want to remove the cutter . Marvin

What will it take for Accurate Molds to resolve this to your satisfaction? Have you proposed a resolution? This rant seems premature to me.

Gear

[41 mag fan]

What will it take for Accurate Molds to resolve this to your satisfaction? Have you proposed a resolution? This rant seems premature to me.

Gear

Well said Gear

[btroj]

I don't know if it is so much premature as it is airing dirty laundry in public.

[oldandslow]

I have four Accurate Molds from Tom. There was a delivery problem with the USPS and one mold hadn't arrived after four weeks. I emailed AccurateMolds and Tom and his crew made me a new mold and shipped it out to me quickly- it arrived within a week. Even though it was no fault of his he went the extra step to fill my order. It turned out that the USPS ripped off the shipping label and it eventually made its way back to Tom. If both parties work together I would expect another satisfied customer like me.

best wishes- oldandslow

[Tpb10505]

I can attest to Tom's service. I must have changed my design 3 times after ordering, and he has been nothing but polite in putting up with me (which I know has been a chore lol). Cant wait to get my mold!

[cajun shooter]

Melloroadman, I started using Tom's moulds about three years or more ago. I posted a thread about him and his service as there was no one saying anything about Accurate moulds. The forum was still stuck with the group buy deals.
My first mould was a trial buy from brass and for my 44-40 guns. The mould came to me within one week and was perfect in all ways. It did however need to be a .001 larger in the cavities to work for my guns. I contacted Tom and told him I wanted to send it back so that he could open it up a bit. He said to not worry that he would make me another one instead. I asked what to do with the mould I had and he replied; Give it to a friend. I could not believe his service or his prices.
I have since purchased several other moulds from him and they are all top drawer.
I have known about putting lead shot in front of any setscrew for years. I'm sure that most persons who have anytime casting do also.
If you mishandled your mould and made it useless then that is not the fault of Tom but you doing something before researching out a proper answer.
I worked as a armorer for a large Police Dept. for many years and saw some terrible things done to perfectly good guns. The men would always say it was someone else who made the mistake. I would hand the gun back to them and say; when you can tell me the truth, I'll fix it for you.
If you messed upped and used Gorilla fixing on the mould and told Tom what happened, I'd be willing to bet the problem would have been taken care of.
Sour grapes should be handled via PM's and not open forum. I doubt you will find anyone who has dealt with Tom believe that he did anything wrong.
We are very lucky to have such a talented man making moulds for such good prices.
Buy a mould from one of the other custom mould makers and see how long you will wait and what the price will be. I have been there. Take Care David

[rockrat]

My dealings with Accurate have been like cajun shooter. His customer service is second to none.
Had a mould made and the gas check shank was about .002 undersize (first mould he had made for that caliber). He made me a new mould and it made it to the house within a week and works well.

I have at least a half dozen of his moulds. Wouldn't hesitate to order another

[melloairman]

I will repeat my self . To this point Toms service has been very good . I did not jump . I went through the proper channels and got no were . I did not do anything to the mold tell he told me how to deal with it . And I followed his directions . Which are not what everyone here states that they would have done . He caught me totally off guard as well . The blocks are worthless due to what he told me to do and it is his responsibly to repair or replace them . If I had done it on my own I would except the responsibility and deal with it. Marvin

[felix]

Melloroadman, you are not being logical (for a gun person). Ask questions on this board here BEFORE going to a vendor for either a purchase or any kind of repair gun related. ... felix

[TomAM]

Mello, the blocks might be ruined now, I don't know.

The problem is that the set screw was not tight enough in the first place and you allowed the hinge screw to rotate, chewing the threads away. Now that the threads are a shambles, there is nothing for the set screw to grip. If the hinge screw can be replaced, the mold is fine.

Your neglect caused the problem. When you first asked about tightening the set screw it was apparently already too late. When you asked for a quick fix for a set screw backing out I suggested one. Your set screw was not backing out. It wasn't doing it's job because there's nothing left to grip.

I am not responsible for your actions, or your lack thereof. Everyone ruins a thread once in a while. Deal with it and move on.

[melloairman]

Tom you told me the mold was not usable . Now you state that it might be usable if the screw can be removed . You are showing incompetence in this matter . And if you take this to heart you will do something to protect the pivot screw for your customers . Since this is a custom mold . I do not agree with what you say .And I will move on . Your customer satisfaction has failed me . Marvin

[Moonie]

As noted in our recent election, some people refuse to take responsibility for their own actions and prefer to blame others for things they have done.

From what we have seen Tom has never failed to quickly take care of issues that were his fault, at his expense, and quickly.

[clintsfolly]

Just remove the screw and if the thread are bad drill and tap to the next bigger thread. A fast easy fix have used for years .Clint

[41 mag fan]

Just a metaphor here.

1 !/2 yrs ago, I was going down the road and my truck started backfiring, sputtering and had no power. I pulled over, called my FIL who was visiting and he came and towed me back home. I called my wifes uncle whose partowner of a Chevy dealership plus a top notch mechanic, where we bought the truck from. Told him what it was doing, told him it had 63,000 mi on it. He said it sounded like timing belt slipped.
Took it to the local dealership and it turned out to be a valve spring that broke, caused the cylinders to foul out.
Now if wifes uncle could of looked at the truck he'd of found what was the problem, but he was going off my description of what happened.

So for that metaphor, did Tom actually physically see the mold and the problems you were having?
It don't sound like it, so he was giving helpful advice on what to do to fix the problem without actually having a or the mold to look at and see what could fix it.

Everyone on here says the same, Toms customer service is top notch.

[dnotarianni]

melloroadman, Have you actually taken all the screws out of the mold to see exactly what is wrong? Perhaps a quick fix if needed would be either a larger screw drilled and taped into the existing hole as already mentioned or repairing the screw thread with a helicoil insert if needed.

Personally this thread has already used up a lot of time that should have been spent shooting. Determine exactly what is wrong, PM Tom privately and work out something instead of just ranting about something we have seen no pictures of

Dave

[longbow]

+1 on what dnotarianni said.

I find it hard to believe so much time has been spent talking about this. I bought a mould from Tom about a year ago and thought it was about as close to perfection as a mould could get but Tom pointed out that there was a small "blemish" on the nose and offered to replace the mould if it bothered me. I looked for the "blemish" before realizing that there was a slight ring on the nose where the tool maybe changed direction or something leaving an almost imperceptible step... perfectly symmetrical, totally not going to affect function and not something I would have considered a "blemish".

I think if Tom offered to replace my mould due to this "blemish" he would certainly fix or replace melloroadman's mould if he felt this was a defect or his fault in some way.

That's my take anyway.

I have to think there has been some bad communication or misunderstanding going on.

All I know for sure is that if I had more toy money I would have more moulds labeled "Accurate Molds" and plan to get more in the future.

Longbow

[turbo1889]

Melloroadman, any threaded block can have its threads stripped or damaged. I am not saying that to point the finger in your direction. Rather I am saying it because there is a solution that consists of not using a threaded block set-up but rather a long bolt that goes all the way through the blocks from top to bottom with a nut on the other end. This is how the magma machine casting molds are set-up and you can order your molds from Tom at Accurate Molds in that configuration if you so desire as I have done multiple times.

The last mold I bought from him I bought a regular configuration mold since I really wanted a two cavity and the caliber was too large for anything but a single cavity in a machine casting block but usually I order machine casting blocks from him with handle screws added and the hand casting sprue plate kit for machine casting molds. I personally prefer a slightly different bolt/washer/nut assembly then what he includes with the sprue kit and I swap out those components for my preference. You will also need to modify a set of casing handles for clearance for the through bolt assembly but that isn't hard to do at all.

I imagine that your stripped out mold blocks could be salvaged by drilling out the stripped sprue bolt hold down hole and using a through bolt just like the machine casting blocks use with the existing sprue plate. Which is exactly my own back-up plan if either the sprue plate hold down bolts or stop bolts on either of the only two non machine casting block molds I have from AM ever strip out.

Long story short, a stripped out bolt hole on a mold is not a fatal injury to the mold. The hole can be drilled out and a through bolt hold down can be installed instead. Or you can get the mold set-up that way from the get-go.

[melloairman]

Melloroadman, any threaded block can have its threads stripped or damaged. I am not saying that to point the finger in your direction. Rather I am saying it because there is a solution that consists of not using a threaded block set-up but rather a long bolt that goes all the way through the blocks from top to bottom with a nut on the other end. This is how the magma machine casting molds are set-up and you can order your molds from Tom at Accurate Molds in that configuration if you so desire as I have done multiple times.

The last mold I bought from him I bought a regular configuration mold since I really wanted a two cavity and the caliber was too large for anything but a single cavity in a machine casting block but usually I order machine casting blocks from him with handle screws added and the hand casting sprue plate kit for machine casting molds. I personally prefer a slightly different bolt/washer/nut assembly then what he includes with the sprue kit and I swap out those components for my preference. You will also need to modify a set of casing handles for clearance for the through bolt assembly but that isn't hard to do at all.

I imagine that your stripped out mold blocks could be salvaged by drilling out the stripped sprue bolt hold down hole and using a through bolt just like the machine casting blocks use with the existing sprue plate. Which is exactly my own back-up plan if either the sprue plate hold down bolts or stop bolts on either of the only two non machine casting block molds I have from AM ever strip out.

Long story short, a stripped out bolt hole on a mold is not a fatal injury to the mold. The hole can be drilled out and a through bolt hold down can be installed instead. Or you can get the mold set-up that way from the get-go.

I understand this but Tom wanted to sell me new blocks . Some seem to not understand that if he wants to continue with this pivot screw design . He should install a copper, brass , or lead washer in the mold before it leaves his shop . All the blame has been set on me . How do any of us know that the thread damage was not done at his shop before it got to me . It is his un willingness to work with me or except any responsibility in this matter that most seem to not understand . He went from the fault was me over tightening it to it not being tight enough . From the blocks being no good to not knowing if the blocks are good . He has sent me the mold back as well as refunded the money I sent him for re cutting the blocks . I hope no one else gets bite .Marvin

[geargnasher]

I understand this but Tom wanted to sell me new blocks . Really? So you just think he's out to screw you over like that? Some seem to not understand that if he wants to continue with this pivot screw design . So far, you and one fellow who didn't understand what the extra hole was for are the only dissatisfied customers, and YOU are the only one of which I'm aware who has managed to actually buggar up his mould . He should install a copper, brass , or lead washer in the mold before it leaves his shop . All the blame has been set on me . Nobody is willing, based on your attitude and comments in this thread, to believe the thread damage is anyone's fault but yours. Why didn't YOU install a copper, brass, or lead BB in there yourself, before it got buggared, since you were so adept at identifying this glaring defect of design? How do any of us know that the thread damage was not done at his shop before it got to me . Simple: If the pivot screw threads had been damaged at his shop, the pivot screw wouldn't have come loose IN THE FIRST PLACE, because the threads wouldn't allow the screw to turn past the set screw bore. Plus, you TOLD us you cranked on it! Give me a break. It is his un willingness to work with me or except any responsibility in this matter that most seem to not understand . Maybe you shouldn't try the blackmail approach as your first move next time you have a problem with a manufacturer. Tom has a very good reputation for customer satisfaction, often going way out of his way to make sure problems get fixed......but some people can't be helped. He went from the fault was me over tightening it to it not being tight enough . From the blocks being no good to not knowing if the blocks are good . He has sent me the mold back as well as refunded the money I sent him for re cutting the blocks . And you think he's out to screw you. I hope no one else gets bite .Marvin

Sheesh. You know who else doesn't use a reduced-shank pivot screw or a non-damaging set screw? RCBS. Oh, and MIHEC doesn't either! Maybe you need to inform them of their problem too, since it seems so many other people are complaining about it. :roll: Good luck.

Gear

[turbo1889]

I understand this but Tom wanted to sell me new blocks . Some seem to not understand that if he wants to continue with this pivot screw design . He should install a copper, brass , or lead washer in the mold before it leaves his shop . All the blame has been set on me . How do any of us know that the thread damage was not done at his shop before it got to me . It is his un willingness to work with me or except any responsibility in this matter that most seem to not understand . He went from the fault was me over tightening it to it not being tight enough . From the blocks being no good to not knowing if the blocks are good . He has sent me the mold back as well as refunded the money I sent him for re cutting the blocks . I hope no one else gets bite .Marvin

Sounds like you are only out your shipping cost and he sent the mold blocks and your money back to you. That is far better then some other custom mold cutters have done with similar issues. I know of at least two that have deducted their time and claimed damaged tooling cost and only sent part or none of the money back.

This is between you and Tom. Tom has so far always treated me right and has done custom requests for me beyond what he normally offers. I guess your expectations are more stringent then mine (as you describe the situation I would not be doing what you are doing but would have already done the fix I suggested myself and that would be that). I have learned that if you do good work and try to treat your customers right you can satisfy about 95% of them and the other 5% will have problems and of those that have problems you can satisfy half of them (2.5%) with extra TLC and the other half (2.5%) aren't going to be happy unless you lube up and bend over and even then they still will probably complain afterwards that you "weren't very good" as far as assuming that position goes. Long story short Tom like all other business owner/operators has to draw the line somewhere otherwise he will get run out by a small percentage that are off the deep end. Sorry to hear it sounds like you ended up on the wrong side of that line. Quite frankly I'm surprised that Tom has been able to stay well above the 95% rule as long as he has and maintain a good profit margin that makes it worth his wile to provide the level of service to us that he does at the price he does. He must have a very efficient set-up.

[bigboredad]

So why do you continue to whine about it. After the way you have been on here I wouldn't blame Tom for blowing you off which I see he did not do

[gray wolf]

IMHO this whole thread is out of line, It solves nothing, it just makes me want to buy Toms molds. If you have a problem with a vender it should be taken up with the vender. Why cause Tom to come here and have to defend what he does
Most problems can be solved if no one attacks the other person.

[Smoke4320]

It need to be closed ..

[Dan Cash]

Oh! Don't close it. You will remove Melloroadman's reason for living. He sounds as though he is not very mechanically competent and obviously can not accept responsibility for his actions. As far as his bashing Accurate Moulds and Tom personally; I doubt Tom needs any business that Mello might drive away. We have all had our experience with Tom, his product and service and from my experience, unless I need a pointed bullet, Tom will be making all my moulds.

[bigboredad]

Why would Tom need to come here and defend himself his workmanship or cs. When so many do it for him besides why would Tom want s customer like mello when he has so many that really appreciate him and his work

[Greg G]

A fix for that mold would be to remove the sprue plate screw and drill all the way through and tap from the sprue plate side for an allen head set screw that would go in first under the sprue plate screw. You'd have to put it in upside down so the allen wrench could be inserted from the other side of the block. Once the sprue plate is adjusted tighten the set screw down. It won't damage the threads because it will be against the tip of the sprue plate screw. After the threads are cut for the new set screw the threads would have to repaired for the sprue plate screw of course. Better to do it after drilling and tapping the new set screw threads.

Does that make sense without pics?

I don't use loctite on the set screws because it loosens before the mold is up to temp.

[Pooch]

Mountain Molds gives the option of a screw or stud & locknut. I really prefer the stud & locknut.

[NVScouter]

Why did you bother to bring this back from the dead AKA 11:11:2012?


So why do you continue to whine about it. After the way you have been on here I wouldn't blame Tom for blowing you off which I see he did not do

[tomme boy]

The OP was winning about this on another post.

[NVScouter]

Gotcha!