So how HOT do these NOE RG4 molds need to run?

[Jumping Frog]

I was in the recent 429421 Keith NOE RERUN (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=122019) group buy, where I got a 4 cavity with both the hollow point and flat point pins.

I have to run this mold really hot, almost to the point of bullet smearing on the sprue plate, with the melt temperature around 775 degrees to get these to drop without wrinkling. The bullets are obviously pretty frosted (which I know doesn't hurt anything, but still, I'd prefer less frosting).

Are these mold known to require high temps to cast?

[Blammer]

a little higher MOULD temp is what you need, the HP pins need to stay hot.

best way I found to cast is, preheat mould, then use a bit higher casting temp. when you go to dump them, open the mould JUST enough to get the boolits out, then close really quickly, keeps the pins hot. I let the lead cool till it don't smear.

Key is get the MOULD hotter, or the pins hotter for sure.

Best way to practice this is with the FP pins first. :)

[41 mag fan]

Preheat your mold on a hotplate on med. I do that to my brass molds while waiting for my lead to come up to temp in the furnace. About 2-3 casts and the mold up to perfect temp to get good casts, without the frosting ect. Once that brass mold gets to temp it'll keep itself hotter longer than aluminum will

[44man]

It does not matter what mold or how many cavities you have. ALL molds need to be the same temperature. The problem is the large blocks and getting them to the right heat, then keeping them there.
The metal the mold is made of means some absorb and hold heat better then others so you need to adjust your pace. It is not pot temps. Alloy dictates pot heat.
I don't like many cavity molds but pour from one side one time and reverse the next pour. That will even the mold heat.

[cbrick]

It NOT alloy temp, it's mold temp. Alloy temp and mold temp are two very different animals. If you keep your pot at say 700 - 725 that is far more heat than is needed to get the mold to casting temp and keep it there. A faster casting pace is what is needed with aluminum because it will loose it's heat far faster. Stop inspecting the bullets between casts, keep the blocks closed and full as much as possible.

NOE is is exceptional quality, it's just that if your accustomed to iron or even brass molds switching to aluminum takes a bit of a learning curve.

Rick

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

With these molds, I cast much like what Blammer and cbrink said,
the Mold temp needs to be higher, not the alloy temp...
But I'll go into more detail.

I cast with the NOE 429421 RG2 as well as the NOE 41 Keith RG2 ...it's little sister.
I preheat the mold on a hotplate so the mold is up to temp.
The temp being...You want the sprue puddle to freeze in about 4 to 6 seconds.

Using WW alloy or similar (I tend to use a softer alloy for the hollow points).
The alloy temp I use is between 675º to 725º (depending on the alloy).

SO, after I complete the pours into the mold,
when the sprue freezes, I cut the sprue and move the sprueplate back over the cavities.
Then, I don't open the mold right away...I wait 5 to 10 seconds,
That lets some of the heat transfer from the alloy to the pins and mold.
this is a trial and error thing, what ever works, the mold will tell you with it's results.

If the mold seems to cool off to much while casting (The time it takes for the sprue puddle to freeze goes from 6 seconds to 0 seconds), Then I put it back on the hotplate for a while.

Another thing with NOE's RG molds. The HP pins will be sticky for the first few casting sessions, till they season. ALso, I do oil the pins 'ever-so-lightly' with Bullplate, while the mold and pins are HOT...just like the sprue plate.

these where cast just a week ago.
Good Luck
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=169970