leadman
11-01-2012, 10:57 PM
My neck has gotten bad enough to give me problems after sizing boolits for only a half hour or so. This is why I tried to make one of my RCBS L/S air operated.
I think I have accomplished what I wanted to do. I bought one of the closeout cylinders from Grainger and 2 manual air valves. The fram was made from a scrap bed frame. The fittings for the copper line and the joining nut were bought from Home Depot. The cylinder was about $13 and the valves $34 each.
It is crude but it seems to work good. It actually pops the boolit out of the die so I just need a bin under the machine to catch them.
Takes #90 of air to size a 44 boolit with gas check.
After I use it and make any needed modifications I will paint it so it looks better.
I used 2 control valves so I can move the cylinder shaft by hand to line the nose punch up to the nose of the boolit. There was a single valve available that would allow me to do this but it was over $100.
I think I have accomplished what I wanted to do. I bought one of the closeout cylinders from Grainger and 2 manual air valves. The fram was made from a scrap bed frame. The fittings for the copper line and the joining nut were bought from Home Depot. The cylinder was about $13 and the valves $34 each.
It is crude but it seems to work good. It actually pops the boolit out of the die so I just need a bin under the machine to catch them.
Takes #90 of air to size a 44 boolit with gas check.
After I use it and make any needed modifications I will paint it so it looks better.
I used 2 control valves so I can move the cylinder shaft by hand to line the nose punch up to the nose of the boolit. There was a single valve available that would allow me to do this but it was over $100.