armednfree
10-31-2012, 12:11 PM
This is what I came up with that worked rather well. I took a full can of JPW and put it on my hotplate. That cooked down to about 1/3rd of the can. while it was liquid I added enough X-lox to bring it up to twice that level. When it cooled it was still too soft. I remelted it and put in 1 sheet of bee hive foundation. (I have some old dried up stuff that is no longer usable for the bee's) And an equal measure of x-lox 350. This stuff is the exact same color as Red Rooster lube. But still a bit softer.
I use a 458 mag case that I ran into a 45acp die a bit, about as long as the Lee 310 grain GC 44 bullet I'm using. That cuts is but leaves a small film over the surface of the boolit. The lube is still a bit tacky. No matter, let the boolits sit over night and the lube hardens up. Obviously there is still a small amount of solvent in it, doesn't bother me a bit.
I loaded this boolit with 20 grains of H110, 18 rounds with no leading. That load is a bit much after my wrist surgery so I backed it down to 18.4 grains. Here's the question, I loaded the boolit with some in the rear groove and some in the forward groove. In my SBH, which do you guess will be more accurate?
I use a 458 mag case that I ran into a 45acp die a bit, about as long as the Lee 310 grain GC 44 bullet I'm using. That cuts is but leaves a small film over the surface of the boolit. The lube is still a bit tacky. No matter, let the boolits sit over night and the lube hardens up. Obviously there is still a small amount of solvent in it, doesn't bother me a bit.
I loaded this boolit with 20 grains of H110, 18 rounds with no leading. That load is a bit much after my wrist surgery so I backed it down to 18.4 grains. Here's the question, I loaded the boolit with some in the rear groove and some in the forward groove. In my SBH, which do you guess will be more accurate?