Info requested on how to treat new Lee molds

[bruinruin]

Guys,

I hate to start a thread about a topic that I'm sure I've seen posted here previously, but I just can't seem to find info on how to treat or season a new Lee aluminum mold.

I dug out my long unused pot and fired it up last week with the intention of casting a pile of boolits. Everything went along just fine, my pot of linotype was liquified, molds, (a 6 cavity for my .44s and a 2 cavity for my 7.62x39) sitting across the top of the Lee pot to warm. Everything was going just fine except that I kept getting wrinkled bullets from both molds.

I was casting in about 50 degree temps, so I reasoned that maybe my lead was a bit on the cool side and just wasn't filling out the molds well. I slowly adjusted the temp on the pot upward to the point where I started getting frosty bullets, but the wrinkles, though fewer, were still there. Also, the edges of the bands weren't all that sharp.

I've read that this can be caused by contaminants in the mold. My question is this-what is the simplest, most economical way to treat these new molds?

Thanks for any help!

[454PB]

Clean them, a thorough degreasing is required before they are used. I use brake cleaner, but hot water and a scrubbing with dish soap will also work.

[bruinruin]

Thanks! I hoped it would be that simple.

[Nocturnal Stumblebutt]

i use a soup can or something similar, and use it to dunk them in mineral spirits, then use a few q tips to scrub the cavities with the mineral spirits, then dunk it again, let it air dry in the sun, heat it on a hot plate, and use 2 stroke oil (following the bullplate directions) to lubricate it, then smoke the cavities with matches. Then after I have cast about 100 boolits, I smoke it and lube it again, and repeat after another 100. After it just needs to be lubed each casting session and I will work beautifully.

[Nocturnal Stumblebutt]

I know that might sound complicated but its not, to simplify:

Clean->Scrub->Rinse->Air dry->Heat->Lube->Smoke->Cast->Lube & Smoke->Cast->Lube & Smoke

DONE!

Also, following this process on Lee molds you have already used will rejuvenate them (to some extent)

[41 mag fan]

Or as I've found smoking a Lee does no good but to make your casts undersized. Get a couple good casts on it, then Leement it and it'll be good to go.
I stopped smoking molds long ago, a good quality mold wont need smoked or anything beyond a very good cleaning to get them to fall out when you open the mold

[Nocturnal Stumblebutt]

41 mag fan, I respectfully disagree, if you have had luck with not smoking your molds then perhaps I should try your method, and in fact with the Lee tumble lube designs smoking may not be necessary, but I have had an incredibly difficult time with boolits sticking in un-smoked molds that have Lee's perfectly square lube grooves.

[Casting_40S&W]

I clean mine with a plastic tooth brush, using white gas, and smoke with a BIC lighter.

[MBTcustom]

I take a new Lee mold and use a soft bristle toothbrush to clean it with dishsoap and water. I smoked molds for years, I don't anymore.
Actually, for me, I think smoking was more of a superstition that I clung to rather than that it actually helped any. I read a few posts here, (especially the one about Leementing) and found that the burrs and rough machining that Lee uses actually creates a mechanical lock on the boolit. Once the burrs are removed, the smoke does no good.....at all.
Another thing that is important is to run your alloy hot enough. I found that after Leementing the molds that needed it (not all of them did) and started paying attention to mold temperature (just a little cooler than frosty boolit heat) and melt temperature (about 750 degrees) that my boolits just drop like rain from a clean, shiny mold. They are more consistent and prettier.
The one caveat to this that I have found is when the alloy has a lot of tin and antimony in it, they start sticking a little, but I think this is caused by another mechanical lock happening in the part line, because the alloy is flowing so perfectly into the cavities. The solution is to reduce the melt temperature to about 650 so that the alloy is thicker and cannot fill the vent-lines because of the increased surface tension.
Just try it before you poo poo it, because many many members here have had the same experience that I have.

[357maximum]

Q. how to treat new Lee molds
A. Very gently:mrgreen:

I clean mine with dawn/hot water and a toothbrush and then dry it with the flame from a propane torch(gently) I never "smoke" a mould...and I never have any issues. I do go over every mould regardless of who made it looking for fine burrs and such. Waving a propane torch over an aluminum mould will show every burr right quickly BTW. Sticking boolits is normally a burr issue...wrinkled boolits that spite your best efforts= an oily mould. A couple of heat cycles normally helps too as it must put a very thin oxide to the finish of the mould.

[357shooter]

New Lee moulds get a washing with Dawn, using a paintbrush. The bristles are trimmed using scissors to stiffen them and help with the cleaning.

The I heat cycle them 3 times in a 425 degree oven.

They are now ready for casting. All moulds get preheated on a hotplate so they will cast well within the first few pours. Sometimes the first pour is good. I also lube the heated mould.

I keep a wet rag handy should the mould get too hot. I touch the mould bottom to it for 5 secs, wait a few more seconds, then go back to casting.

No smoked moulds here.

[bruinruin]

Thanks for all the responses, guys. I'll give them a good degreasing and give 'em another try.

[shotman]

Kroil all you need

[454PB]

No smoking the mould or lubing. Lubing is unnecessary and eventually it creeps into the cavities. Once lube is "cooked" into the cavities, it becomes really hard to remove.

I haven't lubed any of my Lee moulds in 20 years and they all work just fine.

[TCFAN]

I too never smoke my molds. I use to but found out that it is not necessary.On any aluminum mold it takes about 3 casting sessions before it really starts to preform,at least for me..Terry

[stubshaft]

I'm with shotman, Kroil is all you need.

[chboats]

On the Lee 6 cavity moulds I, after cleaning, temp cycle on the hot plate three of four time to set the guide pins, per the instructions that come with NEI moulds. The first couple of 6 banger Lees I had problems with the guide pins working out during casting. After I started following NEI's instructions, no more problems.

Carl

[Buckshot]

............Lubing as needed is the secret to long life for Lee moulds. However, if you like a design get a second to keep on hand, just in case. Lee HAS deleted some designs over time and even with the very best care they're not something you'll be able to leave to your grandkids :-)

..............Buckshot

[Mooseman]

Again I see smoke vs Non smoke...You can do what you want.
I have been casting for 35+ years with steel , Aluminum , and Brass molds of all kinds and I LIGHTLY smoke everyone of them. I never had boolits cast smaller because of smoke , and my only guess is if the boolits are undersized someone put way too much smoke on it.
The Scientific reason to smoke a mold is a micro thin layer of graphite that seals the metal pores and actually acts like a layer of insulation for better fillout and release.
It works for me so I guess I am a smoker for life. I use a bic lighter on high for a quick smoke on a hot mold , but a match works too.
I Degrease a new mold with brake or carb cleaner,put antiseize on the sprue plate bolt and other screw threads, put the handles on, heat it , smoke it and cast until I am content I have a good supply.
When done I wipe it down , and put it back in the box, or in the case of steel molds, I place them in a ziplock bag and seal em up.

Rich

[Mk42gunner]

I have found that my Lee molds like to be run fast and hot. I also do not beat on them to get boolits to fall out.

Once I have Leemented them so the boolits fall free; I cut the sprue with a gloved hand just after the sprue solidifies, and give the mold a shake to make sure it has emptied before closing for another cycle.

Robert

[bruinruin]

I've seen multiple mentions of "Leementing". Can someone clue me in on this? Maybe a link to an existing thread?

Thanks,
Scott

[Elkins45]

There's a benefit to smoking or using mold release spray before leementing: it acts as sort of a micro filler of the low spots in the rough surfaces. Smoke a cavity, then leement it and you'll see tiny dark spots where the mold release remains.

Think of it as "Bondo" for the cavities.

[Elkins45]

I've seen multiple mentions of "Leementing". Can someone clue me in on this? Maybe a link to an existing thread?

Thanks,
Scott

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=654

[bruinruin]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=654


Thanks!:smile:

[Bullshop]

One more opinion added to the list, I do not smoke any mold. Adding smoke or any release adjent to mold block surfaces will impede venting. Proper venting is a major key to good fill out.
Every mold that becomes mine either new or used gets lemented and is brought into proper casting condition,ONE TIME. My lementing includes deburring inside cavity edges, minutley channeling the top seem line for proper venting of the boolit base, and if factory venting seems inadiquate improving it. If this is done boolits" WILL NOT STICK" in the cavities and will drop easily, and will fill completely true to the cavity at a wider range of temperatures and types of alloys.
I too have a fair amount of years and experiance casting and this is my standard procedure with all molds no matter what the maker or material they are made from.

[41 mag fan]

41 mag fan, I respectfully disagree, if you have had luck with not smoking your molds then perhaps I should try your method, and in fact with the Lee tumble lube designs smoking may not be necessary, but I have had an incredibly difficult time with boolits sticking in un-smoked molds that have Lee's perfectly square lube grooves.

Heck we ought to get together and do some casting sometime. I only live an hour from you or you from me, if you take the highway that goes to Washington then 57 for 26 mi then hwy 64 west for 16 mi.

[ubetcha]

+3 on the Kroil

[MikeS]

See the sticky in this forum on how to properly lube a Lee mould.

[Shiloh]

Clean the bejeezers out of them. Mineral sprits then Comet cleanser in very hot water is my ticket.
Some folks boil them.

Shiloh

[jlchucker]

Clean them, a thorough degreasing is required before they are used. I use brake cleaner, but hot water and a scrubbing with dish soap will also work.

I agree about the brake cleaner. Also, I wipe each cavity of mine out with a q-tip lightly moistened with Kroil, at least for the first couple of casting sessions. I tried this on a new mold this past summer, in lieu of smoking the mold. I found that the boolits dropped out very nicely, but it took a bit longer for the wrinkles to disappear. By the 3d casting session, I was skipping the Kroil thing altogether. The wrinkles stopped appearing after the first couple of casts and the mold was dropping them perfectly. Go real easy with the Kroil though. It seems like that stuff may be a bit heat-resistant and cause wrinkled boolits if you use too much of it. There's been all kinds of stuff posted here about using Kroil in molds. I find that it works, but very easy does it.