Lube Everywhere But Where I Want!

[Blammer]

Ok this is a bit frustrating. So HELP!

Just got my sizers from the Bullshop in the mail today! (thanks on the prompt service!)

Set up my Lyman 450, have lube in it from previous, so I installed my .358 sizer and commenced to figure out how the rest of it works....


Got the top punch in correctly, sizer in correctly.

Now my problem is that the lube is being squished into ALL of the grooves in the bullet. Crimping groove, lube groove and where the gas check is.

How do I set it up to only get it in the lube groove!

I'm using a 210 gr RCBS FP bullet.

any suggestions?

[grumpy one]

You have two ways to fix that problem: either don't push the bullet so deeply into the sizing die (that is what the adjustable stop is for) or block off one or more of the lower lube holes in the die. Some older Lyman dies have a multitude of lube holes, extending way down low.

I suggest you start by setting the stop so the bullet nose only partly enters the sizing die. Adjust for a precise cut-off where you want it. However if you have one of the sizing dies with four rows of holes, you'll probably have to block off either the bottom row or the bottom two rows. This is the work of a moment: just drop a suitable lead shot into each hole, and tap it with a nail punch so it is tight. Be gentle, you don't want to damage the I component inside the H component (the sizing die).

[Blammer]

mine has 2 rows of 4 holes.

Great idea on the shot plug. Any idea what size shot I'd need?

wonder if I can buy ONE shotgun shell... :D

[grumpy one]

If you only have two rows of holes it sounds as if you are pushing the bullet too deeply into the sizing die. However blocking off the lower row of holes is still an option. Giving you the shot size number we use here in Australia won't help you - we use British numbers and American ones are different. You want a size that isn't too loose in the sizer holes or it will be too flat to work properly after you've splatted it. If the shot is just slightly too big it won't matter - it will shear around the outside like a lead ball loading into a cap and ball revolver cylinder.

[Bullshop]

There is a depth adjustment screw with lock nut at the bottom of the press, under the die cavity. It neads to be adjusted up. You are entering too far into the die. Adjust it up nearly to the top, then keep trying a boolit and adjust down a turn at a time and try each time until you get the depth you need for that boolit. Forget about plugging holes, it doesnt work the way a star press works. You will have to learn to adjust the depth each time you change boolit style. Once you get the feel of it it takes less than a minute to adjust to perfection.
BIC/BS

[montana_charlie]

Forget about plugging holes, it doesnt work the way a star press works.
Agreed. The holes which are lower than your bullet's grooves are already 'blocked' by the "I" pin. If lube is leaking past the pin, you are using more pressure than necessary.
CM

[Bullshop]

Sorry I didnt see your whole post till I clicked on it and the rest came up. In my experiance you will get lube in anything that goes past the lube ports in the die. In other words the check shank must past the ports so the lube grooves can reach them so the check shank will be lubed also. The only way to prevent this is to let the pressure completely off the lube reservior for each boolit, push it fully in the die so the check shank is past the ports, then pressure up, then release pressure again before ejecting the boolit. Sound like a pain? Yup bout impossible. After about three you will have had enough of that. With this type of press everything up to the adjusted depth gets lubed. Maybe somone more clever than me (easy) has figured a way, but I aint never and I put alota boolits through them things!
BIC/BS

[jonk]

Well if you install a gas check then that takes care of that...... any extra lube that enters what remains of the gas check groove can't hurt. It's only a pain when you fill that groove with lube and THEN want to seat a check.

[omgb]

I would suggest that getting lube in the check shank is exactly what you should want to do. Lube at that location is a very good thing indeed. Lube in the crimp groove is a pain but can be cured by not running the bullet so deeply into the die as others have explained.

[robertbank]

From the above advice you should have your problem solved.

Oh just one more thing. Don't change dies without backing off the pressure, particularily if you have used a hard lube and had your lube sizer heater on. Don't ask how I know this.... :oops:

Take Care

Bob

ps If you do forget to back off the pressure don't try catching the warm runny lube either...stuff is hot........or be wearing shorts..... with no socks on........
Did I mention reloading can be dangerous....

[Blammer]

robertbank-LOL that's pretty entertaining!

fortunately (or un, however you see it) I don't have a lube heater.

[Blammer]

thanks for the info! now I know what I can do and what are some things to look out for.

[quack1]

To make setting up for different bullets simple, I use calipers and measure the part of the adjustment screw that protrudes down past the lock screw for each bullet type I cast. I keep all the measurements on a card that I keep in the box I store all my sizers in. Simple to look up, fast to adjust and best of all-no memory(or lack of it) involved. Bullets of roughly the same length will take the same amount of adjustment, unles you don't want to lube all the grooves.

[robertbank]

That is what my wife said after she quit laughing. All she said was to nobody in particular, "Girls he is mine, all mine" and walked away.

Take Care

Bob

[monadnock#5]

You don't have a lube heater yet? You will by Dec. And although you didn't ask, if and when you put lots of pressure on the lube, without lubing the boolit at all, it's because the drive bands are blocking the ports. Back off on the pressure before making the adjustment. I'll let Robert tell you why.

Ken

[Blammer]

In December I'll be out hunting! Not casting.. :D