Which X-lox?

[armednfree]

White Label sells liquid X-lox and also X-lox 350. They say with the liquid they tin it down. They also say they use the the 350 n their stick lubes. Both are the same price for 32oz. The liquid comes in a bottle and the 350 comes in a can.

It seems that when making the 45-45-10 lube all you would have to do is add mineral spirits a little more to adjust the constancy of the mix. Since the lube on the bullet is not 45-45-10 as the mineral spirits have vaporized off you would end up with 50-50. But then again, most of what is in JPW is solvent and it vapors off too.

The MSDS on JPW says it is only 50% waxes by weight. If you heat it that solvent vapors off. So a mix of 50-50 JPW to X-lox 350 would end up actually being around 75% Alox and 25% wax. If you wanted harder lube you would simply change the ratio. Both Paraffin and carnauba waxes are hard.

So the 350 or the liquid for both tumble and pan lube?

[Eutectic]

The two Alox formulations that are available to us these days are Alox 350 and Alox 606-55. They are not the same or even close to the same. The 606-55 is the liquid Alox.... the '55' being a percent figure of actual Alox 606 in the liquid mix along with 45% solvent. This is the Alox you want for tumble lube. I don't think the Alox 350 would make Recluse's formula very well.

The Alox 350 is used in stick lube and its formulas would be the one to pan lube with.....

Some have used the Alox 606-55 in stick lube formulas.. I have tested it in that application quite a bit. I will summarize several tests for you.. Accuracy goes out the window in 10 shots or less. This is in accurate rifle loads..... possibly handgun accuracy would satisfy some. It will prevent leading for sure!

Eutectic

[armednfree]

The two Alox formulations that are available to us these days are Alox 350 and Alox 606-55. They are not the same or even close to the same. The 606-55 is the liquid Alox.... the '55' being a percent figure of actual Alox 606 in the liquid mix along with 45% solvent. This is the Alox you want for tumble lube. I don't think the Alox 350 would make Recluse's formula very well.

The Alox 350 is used in stick lube and its formulas would be the one to pan lube with.....

Some have used the Alox 606-55 in stick lube formulas.. I have tested it in that application quite a bit. I will summarize several tests for you.. Accuracy goes out the window in 10 shots or less. This is in accurate rifle loads..... possibly handgun accuracy would satisfy some. It will prevent leading for sure!

Eutectic


I ordered the 350, 3 quarts. We are going to see what we see I guess. I love experimenting. This will be all pistol, 100%. In any case, Alox is listed as a rust preventative. I intend to coat all my garden tools with it for the winter and my carbon steel hunting knives after the season. With my wood working tools, that alox should do well while they are in storage.


Otherwise I screwed up, no matter, pan lube is ok. I've done a lot bigger than $42.00 screw-ups

[runfiverun]

re-read the instructions for the 45 lube.
you add 50% alox to the COOKED DOWN jpw.

i make mine differently.
i make 50% tre-wax and 50% jpw [cook them off].
then add 50% xlox and 50% mineral spirits mixed to that [in equal proportions].
then add a chunk of b-wax about 20% the size/volume of the 2 halves [liquid] and melt that in the mix.
it's more like 50-50/50-50/20

[jecjec13]

The two Alox formulations that are available to us these days are Alox 350 and Alox 606-55. They are not the same or even close to the same. The 606-55 is the liquid Alox.... the '55' being a percent figure of actual Alox 606 in the liquid mix along with 45% solvent. This is the Alox you want for tumble lube. I don't think the Alox 350 would make Recluse's formula very well.

The Alox 350 is used in stick lube and its formulas would be the one to pan lube with.....

Some have used the Alox 606-55 in stick lube formulas.. I have tested it in that application quite a bit. I will summarize several tests for you.. Accuracy goes out the window in 10 shots or less. This is in accurate rifle loads..... possibly handgun accuracy would satisfy some. It will prevent leading for sure!

Eutectic

Hay Thanks for the info, I never knew the diff in the 2 types. lucky guess but I allways ordered the right one.

[armednfree]

re-read the instructions for the 45 lube.
you add 50% alox to the COOKED DOWN jpw.

i make mine differently.
i make 50% tre-wax and 50% jpw [cook them off].
then add 50% xlox and 50% mineral spirits mixed to that [in equal proportions].
then add a chunk of b-wax about 20% the size/volume of the 2 halves [liquid] and melt that in the mix.
it's more like 50-50/50-50/20


I used 50/50 alox JPW without reducing the JPW. I used enough mineral spirits to liquify it and the 1/4 amount of Mica. Fairly hard lube, no leading in either my 40 S+W or the 45acp or the 38 loads. I have no reason to change that.

As far as 357 mag and 44 mag I want to pan lube after putting on gas checks. That will use reduced JPW and 50% alox 350.

I got a response from the supplier asking me to confirm my address. I responded and requested that he supply 1 QT of the 350 and 2 Qts of the liquid X-Lox. All the same price.


It appears that just keeping the JPW melted for a time would vapor off the volatiles. Naphtha doesn't need to be very hot to vapor off. Maybe melt it fast then cut the hotplate down to low for 15 minutes and it should be gone. Then pour in 50% alox and heat it up some more.

If I pour that in an old plastic ice tray, lets say after I spray it with WD40, would it pop out when hard?

[runfiverun]

i doubt it.
i make mine in a coffee cup and just store it in the cup with a baggie and a rubber band type lid.
when i need it i heat and ladle it out with a fork.
swirl the boolits and dump out to dry.
you can put the gas check on first by using just a little lube on the boolit jpw would work to get it through the sizer.
you could dip the boolits in the melted mix and set them on some wax paper to dry and catch the run off.

[armednfree]

i doubt it.
i make mine in a coffee cup and just store it in the cup with a baggie and a rubber band type lid.
when i need it i heat and ladle it out with a fork.
swirl the boolits and dump out to dry.
you can put the gas check on first by using just a little lube on the boolit jpw would work to get it through the sizer.
you could dip the boolits in the melted mix and set them on some wax paper to dry and catch the run off.


I'm not looking to coat the entire boolit, just to the lower crimp grove. I do want to pan lube my GC Boolits. Seat the GC and then pan lube.

They changed my order, no problem, good company

[runfiverun]

you just dip the boolit in the melted lube to the point you want it to go to.
if using tumble [liquid] lube it'll work just a bit differently, it won't fill the lube grooves without some wax to provide body to the lube.

if using a regular lube i dip and dry on wax paper then push through the sizer [again] depepnding on whether checked or plain base this cleans off the excess lube.

if pan lubing i pan lube and cut out then push through the sizer.
i'd just as soon dip lube as pan lube though.

[noylj]

The 350 is a grease.
The 606-55 is an oxidized mix of calcium soaps and is used for rust-proofing and undercoating--like cosmoline.
The grease works well for stick and pan lubes, as do an infinite variety of other greases. The 606-55 adheres to the bullet and supplies all the lubrication needed with just a very thin coat.
The grease in a tumble lube will not adhere to the bullet and form a heat-resistant barrier to burning gases, but it will work well as part of a large glob of lube in the grease groove. 606-55 would not work well in the stick lube, plus it is 45% solvent that you would need to get out. It simply doesn't flow well.

[lar45]

If I pour that in an old plastic ice tray, lets say after I spray it with WD40, would it pop out when hard?

I sell my stick lubes by the pound poured into Bread pans to make a block.
It is important to keep the temp of the lube as low as possible when pouring it into the pans so it won't stick. After the lube is solid, I put the pan in the freezer for 30-40 min. It will pop out fairly easily. I was useing some old aluminum pans and wiped the inside down with some mineral oil( a very light coating) to get the blocks to come out easier. I've switched to a non-stick bread pan now and it works much better.

Hope this helps some.