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kylix.rd
10-15-2012, 02:05 AM
I tried my hand at smelting some scrap lead I acquired this weekend. I think I did pretty well for a total noob. Thanks to all the helpful posts, videos, and tutorials found here another other sites, I successfully smelted down about 21lbs.

I started with the lead WWs since that was going to be easiest. I got about 5 muffin tin ingots. I know, not much, but it's a start. I double fluxed, first with crushed corncob media. As it burned it formed little charcoal BBs that I stirred throughout the melt. I then added a chunk of wax from an IKEA tea-light. Here's the results of the WWs.

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q730/kylix_rd/2012-10-14_22-31-46_902_zpsfc63d645.jpg

I also smelted down the large chunk of mystery metal from this post (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=168095). It melted down very well and was surprisingly clean... of course after the WWs, a pile of mud is "clean" :). This chunk was certainly harder than the WWs and I could tell as it was melting and coming up to temp it was certainly a different composition. I was using a Lee Pro 4-20 for the work since I wasn't doing huge amounts and haven't yet budgeted a larger pot. The chunk was about 15lbs and oddly shaped. I knew I needed to break it up into smaller chunks so I took a small hatchet and a large sledge hammer and held the hatchet against the chunk and whacked the back of the hatchet with the sledge. The lead would eventually break and crack once it was weakend. It was a lot of work, but it did break up finally. This is where I could really tell that it was harder than the WWs. Each cracked off peice looked just like the photos I posted in the link above.

Once it was melted down, it poured and flowed very nicely, so I don't think there is any zinc contamination. Once it was fully melted it was smooth and glassy after the fluxing. It poured through the melter's nozzle just as well as the WWs. I used a stainless steel ladle to pour it into the muffin tin ingots. I got about 10 from this chunk.

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q730/kylix_rd/2012-10-14_22-32-49_963_zps79e3c634.jpg

The top of some of the ingots are boogered up because I didn't wait long enough before I flipped them out of the muffin tin and the thin layer of solid lead broke and the still molten led underneath spilled out and spattered.

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q730/kylix_rd/2012-10-14_22-32-59_576_zps9e2277d7.jpg

I waited longer for the second set of ingots and they looked much cleaner.

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q730/kylix_rd/2012-10-14_22-33-17_275_zps0c3c793f.jpg

It is my understanding that antimony makes the lead harder and tin helps pouring and mold fill-out. If that is the case, this is very likely a high antimony content lead with a respectable tin content. I still have to smelt down some lead roof flashing, which is really soft stuff, so I'm using that as the baseline. I'll then do a relative hardness test to get a feel for how each batch is compared to the dead-soft lead. Hopefully, I'll be able to then blend this harder stuff with the pure lead to get a nice bullet alloy

Is there anything I might have done better or differently? Any pointers and tips are much appreciated.

badbob454
10-15-2012, 02:13 AM
looks like you are doing great , only i do my smelting in a cast iron frying pan so i dont get my electric ol drippy pot dirty the last batch may have a fair amount of tin takes longer to solidify and has a smoother finish on the top like the last pics , looks like you are doing well.... bob

kylix.rd
10-15-2012, 02:29 AM
If I got a cast iron pot or pan to use for this this, my wife would have a coniption :). I need to find some nasty, rusty, pocked and pitted one from a thrift store. Otherwise, she'd question my sanity about using a perfectly good cast-iron pot...

badbob454
10-15-2012, 02:39 AM
If I got a cast iron pot or pan to use for this this, my wife would have a coniption :). I need to find some nasty, rusty, pocked and pitted one from a thrift store. Otherwise, she'd question my sanity about using a perfectly good cast-iron pot...

mine would too so i got a china made 12 '' cast iron skillet for a few dollars and i use my turkey fryer burner works great

SlippShodd
10-15-2012, 12:55 PM
If I got a cast iron pot or pan to use for this this, my wife would have a coniption :). I need to find some nasty, rusty, pocked and pitted one from a thrift store. Otherwise, she'd question my sanity about using a perfectly good cast-iron pot...

I had bought a $30 dutch oven from Harbor Freight for smelting, then never got around to doing a big smelt with it before my brother-in-law spied it still in the box under my bench. I gave it to him for his camping box. This weekend I had a 5-gallon bucket of wheel weights to smelt, so I went back to HF and the pot was on sale, less a 20% coupon and I came home with a new one for $20. The wife gave me no grief about leading up a cheap pot and it worked great on the turkey fryer burner... reduced those WWs quickly into 118 ingots. I've read complaints from others on here about the quality of this pot, but my big smelts are few and far between, and a little care should make this pot last a long while for me.

mike

runfiverun
10-15-2012, 02:43 PM
just buy the cast iron pot and use it.
it will last forever, and allows you to blend up a batch of alloy all at once.
i have been using the same two pots for 35+ years to melt ww's etc in.
cheap and effective in the long run.
i've melted [maaan, wow] well over 10-k lbs of lead in those two pots no wonder they are scraped smooth.