Stihl chainsaw chain suggestions

[x101airborne]

I need some help from all you loggers.
I am runninig 3 stihl saws with 20 inch bars.
A MS 260, A 039, and a 026 pro. All the saws are working fine now, but I am dulling chains quicker than I can sharpen them. The cost of the carbide chains is scary, but on this hard (petrified) oak, the regular ones will dull in about an hour of run time. I am pretty careful not to bog my saws and I very rarely use the teeth on the side of the motor case to force them. I usually just let them cut as they cut. I am sharpening the chains on a Harbor Freight chain sharpener (wich may be part of the problem), but do you fellas with big saws have a suggestion as to what kind of chain will last longer between sharpenings? If the carbide chains are really that good, I would consider it, but 25.00 for a regular chain versus 125.00 for a carbide is quite a price difference. What say ye?

[375RUGER]

I would like to get a carbide for mine too but the local dealer has heatburn about selling the carbide and full chisel chains to anyone except "professionals".
I have no doubt the carbide would last longer.
My only experience with an outdoor carbide blade is on a lawn mower. This was years ago in Kansas, I hardsurfaced the blade and never had to sharpen it again. Before I did that, I had to sharpen it every time I used it.
I wish I could give you more than speculation, so FWIW on a chain saw I would think that the carbide would outlast the regular for a while. I'd just keep it away from the rocks and only let the stihl dealer sharpen it.
I try to cut my firewood as green as possible too. When I cut green I rarely have to sharpen the blade as the moisture in the wood helps lubricate. I mainly cut ponderosa around here though. The hardest timber is the juniper, not nearly as hard as oak though.
I wonder what the fire departments do with their carbide chains? Or how often they replace them?
Any of you firefighters know how to get a hold of a used chain?

[x101airborne]

And another problem I am having is the chains still "feel" sharp even when they quit cutting. I guess it really isn't a problem, just another thing I dont understand. Should I be trimming the guide teeth in front of the cutting teeth? Does the angle change as the chain ages?

[fishhawk]

I only do the "rakers" when the chain is about half gone then use a .020 gauge more than that and my MS310 grabs and jumps to much.

[Superfly]

I do two rounds on the cutters and then i will do three strokes on the rakers. U better be holding on to the saw then as it cuts and i will do it now. The saw i use is a 266 husky xp Pro saw 20" old and damn strong.


It sounds like the OP needs his rakers filed down. The cutter tooth is not biting into the wood and just free riding on the raker depth, What does the saw chips look like Real chips or more dusty lookin chips???? if dusty looking chips take three strokes of the rakers and go from there.

[Chill Wills]

As a career firefighter in the Colorado high country, I have experience with carbide saw chain. We used Stihl saws. I also worked the beetle kill pine salvage, cutting vast areas of permits for pulp and firewood.
My experience with carbide chain is for FD use only and I would never recommend it for anything else. I might be wrong but within my experience this is the case. The reason is every time we used the carbide chainsaw we would be sending the chain back to replace the chipped, broken and missing cutters. If you don’t know, the cutters are glued to the cutter seat with epoxy.

If the oak you refer to is Juniper I have no answer for you. It is the nastiest stuff to cut God ever put on earth. For all wood cutting I agree with using the Stihl brand and I never use a grinder on a chain. I am faster and more accurate with the correct chain file clamped in a file guide. With a file you will NEVER remove the temper. It is the only way to go.

Also read Superfly's post and heed.

Hmmmmm…. Other than saving you the cast of a carbide chain I am not sure I offered you anything. Think of ways to avoid cutting this stuff and move on…maybe....…:idea::-P

[oneokie]

As the teeth are shortened, one needs to use a smaller file to maintain the correct angle on the underside of the teeth.

[x101airborne]

Sorry, no. My wood is not Juniper. Live oak is another animal all of it's own. It is almost NEVER straight grained and when it is dry, a cat cant scratch it. I think it is what the devil uses to hammer out diamonds. This is like cutting dry Osage Orange or Iron Wood. I have heated bars till they turned blue, had chains fly apart, sparks fly like I was trying to cut steel, etc. This is not the norm, but does happen.

Not to be contradictory, but i cut juniper with a saw and it is nothing like cutting dry oak.

[Chill Wills]

you wrote:
"Not to be contradictory, but i cut juniper with a saw and it is nothing like cutting dry oak. "

Well that being the case I would say do something other than cutting it. I know, easy for me to say!:shock:
Sounds like this wood must be great for knife scales.

Colorado high country Dead Juniper will do to a chain just what you described. I avoid it.

Good Luck

[shotman]

they sell a carbide coated chain . its on out side so you can sharpen with a file. The HARD you are talking about needs a less pitch on the cut about 22* and a chipper is not your friend there. the cutter/ round tooth will last longer . the carbide coated is round. It is for HARD DRY wood .
Check feebay I have 2 and they work for loacus great

[x101airborne]

Ah, I see. There is probably a huge difference in Colorado high country Juniper than the juniper down here. Ours really isn't all that tough. Takes a while, but not that bad. As far as doing something other than cutting it,,,,, I sure wish dynamite was easier to get ahold of! I could just line up all my splitting pieces, drill holes, insert a quarter stick and a cap, 500 feet of cord and a charge-box. Have you ever seen people fighting to go split wood? That is how it would be down here. LOL!

I called Stihl and they suggested a full chisel chain. I dont know that I ever have or ever havent used one. Anyone know of these? Stihl says that they are the only chains meant for really hard wood. But you MUST keep them clean and out of the dirt. The Stihl guy suggested washing the chain every so often in Kerosene or Diesel and transmission fluid at the end of every use. I just dont think the guy believed me that I dont "force" my saws.

[Bad Water Bill]

Just a side note

Many years ago I worked as a carpenter. We used a BLACK pine for interior studs etc. Never having seen this type of pine I asked the boss about it. It was from a coal mining area and the BLACK was coal dust impregnated into the wood as the trees grew.

You might have the same problem with sand. Never having been in Victoria so just food for thought.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I use a couple Stihl saws for firewood cuttin',
The bigger of the two is a 360 Pro with a 20" bar.
I posted a thread similar to yours about a year ago.
I got into some trees in a flood plain and deduced that there was
sand and/or river silt embedded in the trees. The chains would dull up in one or two cuts.

I recall you posting a while back about a huge Live oak that fell on your land...is this that one ?
Is it in an area that's open, sometimes windy(sand storm), sandy desert type area ?
Do you suppose the bark or outer layer is embedded with sand and grit ?

My experience with Hard cutting Oak that isn't gritty.
There was a time I got to cut up a bunch of large "standing dead for 20+ years" White Oak. While these weren't twisty grain as you describe of the Live Oak, They were Hard and dry and difficult to cut. For example, cutting a 30" dia trunk, I could make about 7 cuts per tankful, each cut would take about 4 minutes. Even though the chain wouldn't need it, I'd hand file the chain after each tankfull, plus that gives me and the saw a rest.

I'm glad you asked about carbide...as I had no clue and always wondered if that was the cat's Meow...and the responces you got answered my question as well.
Good Luck with that Live Oak.
Jon

[Dean D.]

I really like a skip-tooth full chisel chain for harder wood. You have to watch more carefully for kick-back with a skip tooth chain though. I've been told that the skip tooth gives the chain more time to clean out more debris between each tooth. Not sure why but it seems to cut faster than my full comp chains. Also, I use a round file on my full chisel chains. They are easier to bugger up the leading corner on them but man they cut well when they are sharp.

+1 on Ray's comment about sharpening angle. They recommend different angles for green and for dead/dry wood. I seem to recall 45 and 30 degrees but can't remember off hand which is which. I'm a lineman, not a logger. [smilie=1:

[fryboy]

i have to agree about the rakers , as teeth wear and get worn/sharpened down they too have to be attended to , i've seen the harbor freight grinders ( both in the store and in action ) no i didnt and wont buy one , dad taught me the file method ( of note he was much much better than i am at it ) they make a gauge for the rakers , that helped me alot , while i'd love to have the blade that cuts thru concrete ( yes they have them ) i really have no need , the stil is my second fav blade , the husqvarna is my first , they cut like crazy and seem to have a slightly different angle on the teeth and as others have stated your chips will tell you a whole alot about your blade ( for those who dont know in essence if you're not getting nice long big ones your blade is dull ) while i'm not fond of grinding blades sometimes it is needed and in those cases i like the dremel system ( just remember to not sit and grind work it back and forth a couple times and go to the the next tooth and come back if you have to so you dont build up heat and lose the temper

[Houndog]

I worked for the Tennessee Dept of Conservation for awhile and they used Carlton A1 series chains on everything. It IS expensive (about 1/3 more than a Stihl chain) but i've cut all day on a single chain without resharpening! As far as the rakers, (we called them drags) Stihl makes a neat little guage you straddle the teeth with that will tell you when they need filing. It's EASY to keep them level and all the same with that little tool.

FWIW: I've got a Husky 55 (18" blade) I use for a general purpose saw and a Stihl 445 (28" blade)for the serious stuff and use the Carlton chain on both.

[white eagle]

don't know if you can find them in your area but I use a combo file
set up to file your angle and has a built in gauge to hit the rake if they need it
so after so many sharps it will touch the raker as well
been working for me
chains aint fun to buy

[oneokie]

I called Stihl and they suggested a full chisel chain. I dont know that I ever have or ever havent used one. Anyone know of these?

Looking at the cutting part of a full chisel tooth from the front, it will have a square corner where the top and side meet. The top and side of the tooth are flat.

[x101airborne]

Thanks guys. I appreciate all the comments and stories. I am newer to chain saw chains than I am at casting boolits. My area is not all that arid, but it is in sandy-loam country, so I am sure there is a factor of sand imbedded in the wood. I am careful not to heat up the chain while sharpening, but cannot gurantee anything.

I appreciate someone asking about the 200 year old oak. Unfortunately, this is not it. Even a 20 inch bar is not enough for that tree. And the limbs on it are still over 20 inches in diamater. I feel for that old warhorse, but fear it fodder for the burn pile. Sad state of affairs indeed.

This is just for cutting firewood. Most under 10 inches in diamater. In fact, most under about 7 inches in diamater. I dont want to split any more wood than I have to. I just want my chains to last longer. I am considering the full chisle chains. Even just to try. At 28.00 a piece, they are not that expensive. I just dont know how I would sharpen them.

[Dean D.]

I file my full chisel chain with a round file just like you do a round chain. Keeping the angles correct is the hardest part. There are various mechanical file guides you can buy that really help you maintain those angles. Filing a saw chain is an art that takes time to learn well.

[Mal Paso]

Round filed Chisel for speed. Semi-Chisel for dirt. If you see sparks that's dirt. Skip tooth is to run longer bars with less horsepower. Don't bother with full chisel not enough benefit. The steel used for saw chain is so good now it's almost as hard as Swiss Files. I just grind now. Touch, touch, touch, the wheel to the cutter to allow time for the heat to be absorbed back into the cutter and dispersed. Just kiss the rakers. Stihl chain is a 2% better than Windsor or Oregon and not worth double the cost. Check this out: http://www.baileysonline.com Get on their mailing list for their specials. I buy 7 or 10 loops at a time and sharpen them all at once at the same settings. This Oak was cut Monday with Woodland Pro 30RC http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=woodlandpro%2030rc&catID=11810 30SC handles dirt better http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=woodlandpro%2030rc&catID=11810

Nothing puts a smile on my face like a storm of big fat chips coming out of a log.

[FLINTNFIRE]

as to the original question , full skip ,chisel or semi chisel , stihl makes good saws and good chain , oregon is good chain to , and thats what I ran on my saws in the woods and cutting firewood also, I still file with a round file , and take rakers down carefully ,to much saw grabs ,kicks and will blow up your sprocket rim , cutting in the mt. st. helens blast you couldnt keep a chain sharp .

[Bob Krack]

Trey, lots of good advice above.

Full chisel is usually the choice of the professional loggers. My choice would be round or semi-chisel.

In another time and another place, I cut many many cords of black oak, blue oak, white oak, and pacific madrone - AND lots of valley live oak. Tuffest commercial firewood available. Might be more heat content than shagback hickory.

Every thing you are describing just screams improper sharpening. Raker being most likely in my mind.... Ya might have a chain sharpened by a saw shop and ask them if they could point out any differences between the properly sharpened chain and your sharpened chain. If they are ethical, they will show you the difference - especially if they are a saw sales shop and not just a service shop.

The HF chain grinder is just that - a GRINDER! It'l flat eat it up and ruin the temper. I'd put it away until you can file by hand. Several hand "guide" or guidence tools are readily available.

Bob

[x101airborne]

Thanks guys. I have been doing a lot of reading here and through google. I am learning a lot and have held off ordering chains till I figure more out about what I need.

[Mal Paso]

Bob has a point. The better the sharpening job the longer a chain will last. It took me a while to get mine close to factory. If you can find someone who knows and cares about sharpening treasure them. Don't know how good that HF grinder is, I spent $300 on mine and it's OK. Really good grinders are several thousand. It takes talent to sharpen a chain. The last time I sent one out it was $11 for a really poor job. Last time I bought chain it was $14/24" 3/8 SC. A good case could be made for touching them up with a $1.25 file a couple times then throwing them away.

I'm too much of a Scotsman for that.

The pictures were Northern California. Down here it's Live Oak growing out of Decomposed Granite. DG get blown onto the bark and dulls a chain in seconds. Cut from the clean side or bust some of the bark off with a pry bar. There won't be any sand past the bark.

[Dean D.]

One tip I learned from an old logger was to always use the same number of file strokes on each tooth. It really helps prevent half-mooning (saw cutting in a semi-circle instead of straight). If I find a tooth that does not fully sharpen with that number of strokes I leave it, usually the problem will be corrected on the next sharpening. Better that than to unevenly file it and cause additional problems. This method has worked well for me. YMMV

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I appreciate someone asking about the 200 year old oak. Unfortunately, this is not it. Even a 20 inch bar is not enough for that tree. And the limbs on it are still over 20 inches in diamater. I feel for that old warhorse, but fear it fodder for the burn pile. Sad state of affairs indeed.

Here's a little show and tell of mine.
and btw, you can cut more than a 20" dia trunk with a 20" bar.
pictured here is THE largest "Standing Dead" White Oak I cut with my stihl 360 Pro.
Actually it was leaning at a 60º angle for the last couple of years.
Obviously you need a chain that's sharpened as good as a NEW chain for work like this.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/bigstumpwithStihlcloseupreduced400x300.jpg

It Y'ed off into two trunks about 5" off the ground,
actually making it easier to cut...But took twice as long to get through :)
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/bigstumpwithStihlIIreduced400x300.jpg

I wish I could get into that woods again, that is the best firewood
I ever burnt, even it it was tough cuttin'. It sure split nicely too.

[jcameron996]

I think everyone has nearly covered everything about sharpening chain saw chains. The first and most important thing is to get rid of the grinder. You have probably removed the temper from your chains and that is contributing to you not being about to keep them sharp. Get the proper sized round file for your chain with a handle and a good flat file. You can check your drags by laying the flat file across the teeth. The drags should be about the thickness of a dime from the file, any more that and the chain will grab. All of the Stihl chains I have bought lately have witness marks on the teeth and the drags to help you keep the angles correct. Start practicing with a file and you will be surprised how quickly you will pick it up.

[bimus]

This is a older thread about chainsaw chains

I'm thinking of getting a carbide chain for my saw ?

[farmbif]

I like the stihl rs chain the best but the Oregon exl and lgx. chain is supposed to be real good too. if I ever totally destroy my rs chains maybe I'll try Oregon. the stihl prices have more than doubled in past couple years.
good chainsaw chain is too expensive to keep replacing. learning to sharpen them well is a must in my opinion.

[jgstrug]

1hr of run time is a lot of chain revelutions, sharpening takes about 6 minutes. I say that that's plenty efficient for a non professional.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

[MarkP]

I ended up buying Stihl Duro Carbide chains for my MS 661 25" and MS391 20" and MS 201T 14". They have been better than expected. I would normally dress my chains with a few strokes of a file at each fuel fill-up. After cutting several cords of Osage Orange in KS (3hrs away) I decided to buy the Carbide chains. My next trip to KS I brought Carbide chains... I went through (7) tanks of fuel cutting Osage Orange using the Carbide chain on my 661. It cut just as good at the end of the day as it did in the beginning. The Carbide rescue chains are different than the Carbide wood chains. The Stihl duro carbide chains cost about double of a regular chain. I did notice a while back chain prices really went up in the last few yrs. I sharpen my steel chains with a Oregon hyd chain sharpener, I do not have a diamond wheel so took my 25" carbide to the dealership and it was $17 to sharpen. I have used my Carbide chains to cut stumps and have hit soil multiple times. Does not dull the chain like it would a steel chain. I did hit a piece a barb wire that a tree grew around with my 20" and chipped 3 cutters. Still cuts okay. One thing a guy told me is the chain will stretch more than the adjustment in your saw and will be useless.

[Hannibal]

I used to cut a lot of firewood and Carlton chains were the best I ever tried. Had to be ground to resharpen, file wouldn't cut the teeth. I heard another company bought them out but I'm not sure if that's true.

[HWooldridge]

I ended up buying Stihl Duro Carbide chains for my MS 661 25" and MS391 20" and MS 201T 14". They have been better than expected. I would normally dress my chains with a few strokes of a file at each fuel fill-up. After cutting several cords of Osage Orange in KS (3hrs away) I decided to buy the Carbide chains. My next trip to KS I brought Carbide chains... I went through (7) tanks of fuel cutting Osage Orange using the Carbide chain on my 661. It cut just as good at the end of the day as it did in the beginning. The Carbide rescue chains are different than the Carbide wood chains. The Stihl duro carbide chains cost about double of a regular chain. I did notice a while back chain prices really went up in the last few yrs. I sharpen my steel chains with a Oregon hyd chain sharpener, I do not have a diamond wheel so took my 25" carbide to the dealership and it was $17 to sharpen. I have used my Carbide chains to cut stumps and have hit soil multiple times. Does not dull the chain like it would a steel chain. I did hit a piece a barb wire that a tree grew around with my 20" and chipped 3 cutters. Still cuts okay. One thing a guy told me is the chain will stretch more than the adjustment in your saw and will be useless.

That stretch comment doesn’t make sense. The carbide is only on the teeth; the rest of the chain is conventional. Carbide chips on interrupted cuts in metal so I expect it will cut through imbedded bullets or wire but might break if it hits rocks and other trash.

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

All depends on the grade of carbide. Some grades are tougher and some are harder.

[GregLaROCHE]

+1 for skip chains. One plus is less teeth to sharpen if you’re filling by hand.
Make sure your grinder is cutting the correct angles and depth. Don’t forget to dress the wheel when needed. Rakers need to be reduced, I like mine a little lower than spec. Carry a file with you for a quick touch up in the field. Don’t over heat the chain if it’s not cutting.
I’ve heard from a tree surgeon, that in some cases, trees bring silica up from te soil and it is impregnated in the wood fibers and chains dull much faster. Maybe your trees are like that.

[john.k]

All wood has silica in it ...silica is soluble in water to some degree.........this is the reason wood ash can be used for pottery glaze.............grinding any hard steel draws the hardness in the fine edge ,even if the bulk of the metal doesnt get hot...........the exception is HSS deposited by arc welding .....HSS doesnt soften in red heat ,this is the reason you can sharpen a drillbit with a grinder.

[Dancing Bear]

Have you looked at https://www.baileysonline.com/ ? I found their pricing very reasonable.

[jonp]

I'm surprised you are dulling a chain that fast without digging into dirt. Do you have a chain gauge? I used to cut a few hours then use a hand file like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XM3P6Q/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B073XM3P6Q&pd_rd_w=JMunK&content-id=amzn1.sym.a8bfa847-39f1-4f54-bb95-ee052e9f7910&pf_rd_p=a8bfa847-39f1-4f54-bb95-ee052e9f7910&pf_rd_r=XZ97WRSJ6XENYM6CCPK0&pd_rd_wg=AIY64&pd_rd_r=b8e739fe-b28c-4a3d-bafb-9edb9c1d7860&s=lawn-garden&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFXWlhFNFQ2NjJWVk4mZ W5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwNTQ3MjczOUMwQjVZUVpDTjZXJmVuY3J 5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0OTU4OTUxMVBaTVk4OVBZVEVWJndpZGdld E5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsX3RoZW1hdGljJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1J lZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== for touch up during the day. I also have one like this although not the Stihl brand https://www.amazon.com/STIHL-EASY-CHAINSAW-CHAIN-SHARPENER/dp/B00HY96EW8?tag=sawineryus-20.

Both work fine and I usually took a minute every couple of fill ups to touch the chain. As for chain I've always used Oregon usually the semi chisel although I think most of the professionals use a square chisel. Forget those safety chain things. They don't cut worth a darn. I second Baileys. They are reasonably priced and at the least you can compare different stuff.

I'm not a professional by any stretch but cut softwood pulp for money in high school and 8-10 cords of maple, yellow birch and beech for firewood every year. I can't remember what saw I was using back then but I know I had great luck with a Husky 272xp and a 41 for limbing and small stuff. Now I have a Jonsered Pro type 52cc which seems the best weight vs power I've had. Also big enough to cut anything I'm likely to cut using a 20in bar. Owner of the local saw shop I went into to get a new saw suggested it after asking what I was going to use one for and let me try his out back first. All he uses to cut firewood anymore and I bought his last one on the spot. Old enough now that swinging a bigger saw doesn't appeal to me for more than occasional use.

Others here have more experience using saws so I'd listen to them before me, that's for sure. This is an old thread but I was watching chainsaw youtubes yesterday while it was raining (Buckin Billy Ray and Guilty of Treeson) then saw this so thought I'd chime in.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

This is a older thread about chainsaw chains

I'm thinking of getting a carbide chain for my saw ?
I think a carbide chain is a reasonable solution if you just hate sharpening chains, or just have a hard time successfully sharpening a chain.
That's my 2¢

I posted earlier in this thread (11 yrs ago) about sharpening chains, and still do it the same way(hand file). I buy the inexpensive woodlandPro chains from Baileys. I haven't bought any since the "before times", but they would run specials of $100 for a 10 pak shipped free, back then. They last a long time if I don't hit something harder than wood (like steel wire, gravel, ect). When I do hit something bad, I've learned it's best to just retire the chain, than try to bring it back with a hand file. My buddy who has a power sharpener takes those chains off my hands. I cut about 3 to 4 cords a year, and on average, I do that with one or two chains...if I get lucky and don't dip the nose into the gravel (most of my cutting is at a compost site/gravel parking lot) I could probably get 6 cords of wood to a chain.

I visited the compost site a few weeks ago, there were some large Maple logs out there, note the steel 5 gallon can for size reference.
312489

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

wow, I just searched 10 paks of 20" woodlandPro chains, and they have doubled in price.

[ascast]

I'd like to know hoiw the OP made out. good read, I blame the trees and dust. Here, it Black Locust that ruins chains. It just too hard. Fence post will last 70 years.

[Hannibal]

The Oregon chains they sell in many places are going to be very disappointing if you cut very much wood. Those things won't hold an edge for nothing except really soft woods. Oak, Locust or Hedge will dull them in no time flat.

[GregLaROCHE]

I don’t think anyone has mentioned it, but there can be a real difference between green and dry wood. I cut a lot of chestnut. When it’s green, it cuts easy, but when it’s dry, that’s another story. The same goes for diving nails into it. Green no problem, but dry almost impossible sometimes.

[barnetmill]

Being in north Florida I am very familiar with live oak. We do have the southern cedar that is actually a juniper. That cedar is easy to cut and so is the local pine.
Live oak when it is green is not so hard to cut. If you let it lay around and season, it cab become incredibly resilient and hard. Impossible to split with wedges and a sledge hammer with cutting a deep notch in it for the wedge. You drive the wedge in the wood will push and squeeze it back out. It also takes about five years laying on the ground to rot. The other oak around here when seasoned saws and split just fine except maybe at the based of the trunk where there may been injury or something. same for the pine.
As a non-professional I let stihl sharpen my stihl chains. Keep the chain out of the dirt and you can cut enough wood for someone like me without too much sharpening.
About sparks, in the evening one can see sparks on occasion and I think that is from binding the chain that is more apt to happen when it gets loose on my Husqvarna saws. I will sharpen at time the Husqvarna chains, but I am not doing it right. Lately I have been using a dremel tool but even though I am not doing it correctly the chain will cut.
For me the chains are not so expensive. I think the 25 inch stihl chain was about $30 and at lowes 16 inch and 20 inch chains about $20 or so for oregon chains. Maybe the chains are more now.
I needed the stihl 25 inch saw for a few larger trees. On the last two oaks I had to cut on both sides on 30 inch diameter trunks to get them down.

[toallmy]

Well as of today - I'm going to be looking for a new chainsaw my 391 got tired of working , right in the middle of cutting some firewood . A quick trip to the shop sent me home in worse shape , it seems the shop is having difficulties getting parts , & even saws . In a last ditch effort I took my old 391 to them hopefully they can take some parts off of it to get it operating .

[farmbif]

if you have more time than money and are any good with wrenches stihl saws are usually worth rebuilding. there are many videos on YouTube that give detailed instruction on chainsaw rebuilding and repair. hl has parts and is a reliable business. you can also buy complete powerheads direct from farmertec.net for many stihl saws
https://www.hlsproparts.com/product-p/H30396.htm?Click=2139&utm_source=GooglePLA&utm_Medium=CSE&dfw_tracker=10332-H30396&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8qmhBhClARIsANAtboc8F_qpgZPt3fBOF-VvgT9XTy1cY01yXdwPlK-npPq8zuldxdwhrTAaAklWEALw_wcB

[toallmy]

Thanks this might come in handy very soon .

[john.k]

If I ever get desperate I still got my old 26" Mc Culloch....runs about 1/2 the speed of a modern saw,weighs a ton,but once I get it started ,it just cuts.

[georgerkahn]

If I ever get desperate I still got my old 26" Mc Culloch....runs about 1/2 the speed of a modern saw,weighs a ton,but once I get it started ,it just cuts.

John.k -- you brought back memories of "Old Yellow" -- my McCulloch. By the time I'd get it started I'd be tooooo tired to do much cutting with it. Yup -- "heavier than a dead minister" :), too. I "modernized" to a stable of four Stihls -- two 019t's (one ea w/ 12" and 16" bar); an 260PRO, and, a 36PRO. Reading this thread reminded me I have a very-lo compression 39 -- was the saw my Lewis Winch (used) came on -- and it no doubt needs a new power unit -- I gather its cylinder is pretty much scored. I have too much $$$ in it do other than let it collect more dust; local dealer professes it would cost more than the saw is worth to put a new motor in it; but -- I'm wondering if there are ANY people out there, e.g., someone retired?, who might think it a win-win for THEM to rebuild my saw, and even :) make a few dollars so doing.

[Rapier]

I have four Stihl saws, the Farm Boss is the badest of the bunch, heavy and known to get half cocked then kick back on you when trying to start it when cold. The kick back will near jerk a shoulder joint right out of the socket. Only use it for big trees. Once you get it started it cuts about six trees into 3' lengths, before it need a sharpening. They run and run with chain oil, fuel and air.
Today, parts for anything mechanical can be a problem. Just get a recall on a vehicle, with no parts to repair it, utmost confidence in your vehicle.

[Hannibal]

I used to own an 044 Stihl with no compression release. Only way I found to start it was 'drop start' it. Ran a Carlton full chisel chain and a 30" bar. That was one wood cuttin' son-of-a-gun.

If it kicked back once when starting it you'd be massaging your hand and cursing for 15 minutes. If you screwed up and pinched the bar it would completely strip the chain and rivets and you'd be cutting it out with another saw.

I sold it a few years ago. It was meaner than I was and I was too beat up to cut wood anymore.

[MarkP]

That stretch comment doesn’t make sense. The carbide is only on the teeth; the rest of the chain is conventional. Carbide chips on interrupted cuts in metal so I expect it will cut through imbedded bullets or wire but might break if it hits rocks and other trash.
The chains will last so long (have more hours of run time) that they will stretch more the a regular chain would as the gullet on a steel chain would have nothing left due to numerous sharpenings.

[GregLaROCHE]

The chains will last so long (have more hours of run time) that they will stretch more the a regular chain would as the gullet on a steel chain would have nothing left due to numerous sharpenings.

Chains don’t actually stretch. They wear a bit between the links, but mostly where the links come in contact with the bar, as well as the bar wearing too. It’s because of this wear that you have to tighten them up. Besides sharpening the chain, you need to have the bar ground down to remove the grooves caused by wear.

[fastdadio]

Well, this is a timely thread for me. Just had a wind storm bring down a lot of heavy limbs about the property. Luckily no damage to my buildings but a big clean up ahead. My 30 year old, low hour 029 Farm Boss wouldn't stay running and the original chain is shot. I put a new diaphram set in the carb and it's running crisp and clean again. Time to start shopping chains.
The other angle to this story is that I have a really nice Pyramid brand brick lined air tight wood burner in my garage. I got it free for the cost of removal from a job. It's never been fired. My garage is ready with the proper 'A' vent penetration through the roof. All I have to do is make the connection. This may require shopping for a new insurance company since my current company (Auto Owners) says "no way" They won't insure a wood burner on the property. They've been milking me for too long any way, it's time to fire them and sign with someone else.

[brokeasajoke]

I like this dude on YouTube. A semi chisel will not dull as fast but not cut as fast a s a full chisel. Someone makes a double chrome plated chain but don't remember who. Seems like it was Oregon multicut. ANY and I mean ANY dirt on the log/wood will eat at the teeth edge. Chip that crap off where you are going to make your cut with a hatchet if time allows. I drag my wood out with a tractor and then cut so my chain dulls in a hurry.
https://youtu.be/7_tsY2abJes
Chain test

[toallmy]

It never hurts to have a few extra - sharp chains , & a extra bar .

[MarkP]

Chains don’t actually stretch. They wear a bit between the links, but mostly where the links come in contact with the bar, as well as the bar wearing too. It’s because of this wear that you have to tighten them up. Besides sharpening the chain, you need to have the bar ground down to remove the grooves caused by wear.

I flip my bars over every 10 tanks of fuel, then check them and recondition the guide rails to proper width.

On a 90+ cc saw they sure get longer. Chains for my 36" bar have 114 drive links, just a few thousandths of increased clearance in the drvie link, side plate holes and the hubs add length quickly. When a new chain is put on it will increase in length in a few minutes of no load operation and must be tensioned before cutting any wood. Even after being broken in thermal expansion is probably 3/4". Always warmup a cold chain stop the saw and check tension and always loosen up the chain tension when finished to prevent loading up the crank shaft once everything cools and begins to shrink.

[jonp]

John.k -- you brought back memories of "Old Yellow" -- my McCulloch. By the time I'd get it started I'd be tooooo tired to do much cutting with it. Yup -- "heavier than a dead minister" :), too. I "modernized" to a stable of four Stihls -- two 019t's (one ea w/ 12" and 16" bar); an 260PRO, and, a 36PRO. Reading this thread reminded me I have a very-lo compression 39 -- was the saw my Lewis Winch (used) came on -- and it no doubt needs a new power unit -- I gather its cylinder is pretty much scored. I have too much $$$ in it do other than let it collect more dust; local dealer professes it would cost more than the saw is worth to put a new motor in it; but -- I'm wondering if there are ANY people out there, e.g., someone retired?, who might think it a win-win for THEM to rebuild my saw, and even :) make a few dollars so doing.

Boy, I did a thinning job one summer out west on a National Forest. Everyone got new Stihls but me. Boss said that since id used a saw before I might like this one and handed me an old yellow, all metal McCulloch. I tuned it up and it cut like nobodies business but by the days end you knew you did something.