M95 steyr Rifles

[Beekeeper]

The previous thread on them got me to thinking about them as well as someone at the range asking.
I have 6 of the carbine ones.
If I wanted to sell a couple of them what would be a fair asking price?
All have good barrels and good wood.

My problem with selling is the lack of brass and boolits unless you cast for them.
Don't want to sell some one a " pig in a poke" and expect them to find readly available ammo.

Easy way to lose friends if you know what I mean.


beekeeper

[craig61a]

I would say probably in the 150 -200 range depending on what you've got. These were selling for around 100 several years ago. Ammo was never really in plentiful supply; while these were being brought in by most of the major wholesalers there was ammo for several months or so then it all dried up (wish I would bought more cases of the 'nazi' marked stuff).

Cases can be purchased from Grafs, jacketed .330 from Buffalo.

[Four Fingers of Death]

As long as they understand the situation with the ammo there is no issue with it. Cases are made by Privilege PartisanHornady make jacketed bullets to suit (they are not imported here apparently but seem to be available in the States. I saw on YouTube that a guy was sizing 338 bullets down in a Lee bullet sizing die. I haven't tried Tgats yet (but I don't have much interest in it). Bullets designed for the 338Federal or 338/06would be magic I'm thinking (but thinking is theory! lol)

[HawkEyeEarl]

Beekeeper

Are they chambered for 8x50r or 8x56r?
Are they original carbines or cut down rifles turned into carbines.
That will make a difference for some.
Many rifles were cut down to carbines and still desirable.
They are interesting to many including me.
Many of us here like the reloading challenge of brass, clips and slug, and if we are looking for an austrian mannlicher then we are prepared for that.

Thanks
HawkEyeEarl

[halbautomatisch]

PPU makes loaded ammo for these if it's chambered in 8x56r. It's not cheap, $25-$30 a box, but it's reloadable.

[Four Fingers of Death]

The way I understand it the 8x50 uses a .323" bore and the 8x56 uses the uses a .329" bore. That to me would make the 8x50 a better proposition especially as it is a shorter case and could be made easily from Russian brass. Am I on the right track here?

[Me not you]

The groove dimeter for the older rifles is usually more than 0.330, often 0.334. The land diameter is usually 0.315. These apply both to the 8x50 and 8x56 rifles. They often shoot extremely with 0.330 jacketed bullets. Cast bullets sized to 0.338 and LEE tumble lubed shoot accurately in many of these also.

The original 8x56R used a long 248gr round nose FMJ 0.323 bullet. The 8x56R ammo is usually loaded with 208gr spitzer boat tail 0.329 or 0.330 bullets. I haven't seen any recovered 8x50R slugs, but many say the exposed lead base would expand some to fill the grooves on firing. They are fine rifles and the little carbines and stutzens can be quite good brush rifles. They are certainly handy and powerful.

[Four Fingers of Death]

The groove dimeter for the older rifles is usually more than 0.330, often 0.334. The land diameter is usually 0.315. These apply both to the 8x50 and 8x56 rifles. They often shoot extremely with 0.330 jacketed bullets. Cast bullets sized to 0.338 and LEE tumble lubed shoot accurately in many of these also.

The original 8x56R used a long 248gr round nose FMJ 0.323 bullet. The 8x56R ammo is usually loaded with 208gr spitzer boat tail 0.329 or 0.330 bullets. I haven't seen any recovered 8x50R slugs, but many say the exposed lead base would expand some to fill the grooves on firing. They are fine rifles and the little carbines and stutzens can be quite good brush rifles. They are certainly handy and powerful.

Thanks for that, Mick!

[Charley]

My short Hungarian shoots well with 200 grain .338 cast bullets sized at .335...also easy to squeeze down jacketed .338 bullets to .330, using Lee's pushthru dies and a good lube. 8x6R cases are available, in a pich you can neck up 7.62x54R cases. Necks will be too short, but work fine if you don't have other options.

[Four Fingers of Death]

My short Hungarian shoots well with 200 grain .338 cast bullets sized at .335...also easy to squeeze down jacketed .338 bullets to .330, using Lee's pushthru dies and a good lube. 8x6R cases are available, in a pich you can neck up 7.62x54R cases. Necks will be too short, but work fine if you don't have other options.

Apparently they end up 2mm short which is livable with if combined with a Lee FCDie I'm thinking.

[pilot]

The last SOG flyer I got had them for (I believe) $119 or so. I have CRS, so I could be mistaken.

[Beekeeper]

HawkeEyeEarl,
To tell you the truth I would not one from the other.
I have 4 in the original military form.
All are chambered in 8x56R and shoot the .338 old feller frankenstein boolit like it was designed to be shot
One that is in a sporter form , don't ask why!!
and one with a sewer pipe barrel hanging on the wall (barreled receiver) with Kroil in the chamber area (chamber plugged) to get the threads ready to break loose so I can change the barrel if I ever find one.

Like you I think they are cool little rifles and a great brush gun out to 100 yards with Mil sights and my old eyes.

Wish there was a way to scope one,without looseing the form would like to see just how far they will go and be accurate.


beekeeper

[dnepr]

HawkeEyeEarl,
To tell you the truth I would not one from the other.
I have 4 in the original military form.
All are chambered in 8x56R and shoot the .338 old feller frankenstein boolit like it was designed to be shot
One that is in a sporter form , don't ask why!!
and one with a sewer pipe barrel hanging on the wall (barreled receiver) with Kroil in the chamber area (chamber plugged) to get the threads ready to break loose so I can change the barrel if I ever find one.

Like you I think they are cool little rifles and a great brush gun out to 100 yards with Mil sights and my old eyes.

Wish there was a way to scope one,without looseing the form would like to see just how far they will go and be accurate.



beekeeper

www.scopemounts.com/index.html?instapics.html#

They have a scout style mount for m95

[Four Fingers of Death]

I haven't picked mine up, so I can't be sure, but if the rifle is already sporterised, couldn't the reciever be drilled and tapped for a regular style mount? The stand up cocking knob might restrict things a tad though. A scope with a smallish rear (objective?) lens housing would work, as would a red dot thingo.

[sav300]

Mick,my styer is a straight pull and for gods sake be careful taking the bolt out!Some people suggest using the clips when shooting.This is to stop breaking the extractor,but the clip does not fit under the scout scope I have on mine.

[Four Fingers of Death]

Mick,my styer is a straight pull and for gods sake be careful taking the bolt out!Some people suggest using the clips when shooting.This is to stop breaking the extractor,but the clip does not fit under the scout scope I have on mine.

Ya! Dumbkoff! That's me! Da bolt won't foul the scope, but the clips sure will, lol. Sorry attention span cut in again.

They wouldn't be a bad hunting rig, around the power and effectiveness of a 338Federal, but with a tiny bit smaller bullet and a whole lot less dollars!

[Beekeeper]

The carbines I have are straight pull and need a clip to function properly.
By mounting a scope in the normal way you can not get it to feed a clip unless you have a swing out mount.

Before you take the bolt out get a dime or similar coin to put in the gap between the body and bolt head.
Many of them snap closed or try to due to extractor war.
If it snaps on you it is hard to remove from the receiver and often requires the disassemblty of the firearm.
I made a small brass piece to fit in the gap out of an old cartridge and use it always to ensure I don't have any problems.

I am going to look into the S&K mount.


beekeeper

[Four Fingers of Death]

Before you take the bolt out get a dime or similar coin to put in the gap between the body and bolt head.
Many of them snap closed or try to due to extractor war.
If it snaps on you it is hard to remove from the receiver and often requires the disassemblty of the firearm.
I made a small brass piece to fit in the gap out of an old cartridge and use it always to ensure I don't have any problems.

beekeeper

Good idea.

[dnepr]

I am considering the S&K possibly in the future just to see what the rifle is capable of.my first impression is that with the right load the 95 could be an accurate rifle . I am building a carcano sporter with a scout scope right now so I will get an idea how I like scout scopes, hopefully shooting the carcano by summer . My first impressions of the scout scope is very positive , but range time will tell the story

[Beekeeper]

I have pistol scopes on a M44 Mosin sporter and on a 91/30 in its military form
I used the Simmons pistol scope and the M44 out to 300 yards is a tack driver.
The 91/30 I have only had out to 300 but think it will go all the way to 855 which is as far as our range goes.
Will take a little practice to get it there but that is the fun of it all.


beekeeper

[0verkill]

Beekeeper, the last SOG flyer has the Austrians for $110 and the Hungarians for $120.
Hopefully I'll rember the dime trick if I ever pick one up.

[Beekeeper]

Overkill,
I do not know if I would trust SOG as I have heard a lot of bad stuff about them.
I do not think they are any better or worse than any of the others but they get a lot of bad reviews over on surplus rifles .com.


beekeeper

[halbautomatisch]

Overkill,
I do not know if I would trust SOG as I have heard a lot of bad stuff about them.
I do not think they are any better or worse than any of the others but they get a lot of bad reviews over on surplus rifles .com.


beekeeper

I have bought a lot from SOG and have gotten some things that were mint when I didn't expect it and at other times I was disappointed with what I got. The key with them is to call them and ask more specific questions about condition, matching numbers and what not. Paying for handpick is also a good idea to get better quality stuff.

I'm not surprised they would get bad reviews, but I don't think some people understand that you're taking a chance when you buy from any of these places that do not list and picture each gun individually. If they want a more sure thing, they should buy from places like Simpson or Empire, but they're going to pay a good bit more.

[dnmccoy]

SOG seems to be hit or miss. Luckily I haven't had any issues with the 03 stuff Ive bought from them.

[0verkill]

Beekeeper, just giving you a base for your "fair asking price".

[Baron von Trollwhack]

I just saw this discussion.
So to add two cents more: For quite a while I have used a 8 x 50 R Austrian marked Ferlach stalking carbine, based on the '95 Steyr action with a slim carbine barrel. I suspect it is a "bringback rifle" trophy. It has an engraved rib, leaf sights, double set triggers, wood that looked to be a blond clone in color and finish, and checkering to my old 1908 M-S, wedges & escutcheons on the full length forearm, and a horn muzzle cap. The buttplate looks M-S too. It uses the packet clip system and has no military markings.

7.62 X 54 R Russian cases are too small in base diameter for use with full power loads although they will fireform, thus bulging noticeably at the base. I'm not sure I would even use them for cast boolit loads very much, although I have used them . Redding had dies at the time. I found that converting the 8 X 50 R or 56R from Berdan to Boxer was the fix in the past, although tedious work. That allows for full power loads. The rifling depth in my gun is a bit greater than 8 mm Mauser although the bore is close to Mauser size. Rifling looked like M-S also. I use the Speer 8 mm 170s with great results @ 100 yards for full power loads.

Now with a supply of that great Graff 8 X 56R brass that initially came in the ammo problem is solved for making proper brass.

For those with access to "Rifle" magazine archives, There is a nice article from quite a while back on shooting the 8 X 50 R. I once had a large stock of 8 X 50 R ammo on packet clips with the nazi eagle stamp I used to convert, but with a heavy ball it was murderous to shoot in the carbine, so it went to a fellow with a Schwartzlose gun.

Hope you find this intresting. BvT

[Four Fingers of Death]

Interesting Baron,but it would be fascinating with pictures!

[Ed in North Texas]

The last SOG flyer I got had them for (I believe) $119 or so. I have CRS, so I could be mistaken.

Current J&G website has the cut down Steyr M-95/34 8x56 carbine @ $99.95. Good to Very Good condition. Apparently not a bunch left at that price.

Ed

[VintageRifle]

I ordered 2 from SOG several years ago, send them back. One was a smooth bore and the other ruined 3 cleaning brushes trying to get the rust out.

I now have 4 which were handpicked for bore condition at a local shop. One has a new barrel, the other 3 are darn close to perfect.

I should have ordered brass when it was cheaper. If I need more, I will be buying factory ammunition for reloading.

When I bought my first one, I would get a box of ammo for $1.50. It was that price for months and in stock. Bought my M95, got online to order the ammo... sold out! Should have just bought the ammo before I bought the gun. Live and learn so to speak.

I was able to get 20 boxes for $3 each at gunshow. Got my stock of clips now needed to load the magazine.

[Ed in North Texas]

snip

I should have ordered brass when it was cheaper. If I need more, I will be buying factory ammunition for reloading.

snip


Can I take it that you are aware of the Prvi new brass (100 @ $59.99 at Graf's)?

I don't shoot 8x56R, but I've been happy with Prvi brass in .243 for a Grandson. Only problem I've had with their brass was 3 cases out of 200 in 6.5x50 Japanese had rims a bit too thick in a couple of spots for a Lee shellholder. A couple of swipes with a needle file took care of that problem. With Norma the only alternative for that caliber, I'll buy more Prvi for the Type 38.

Ed

[bjmurata]

Can I take it that you are aware of the Prvi new brass (100 @ $59.99 at Graf's)?

I don't shoot 8x56R, but I've been happy with Prvi brass in .243 for a Grandson. Only problem I've had with their brass was 3 cases out of 200 in 6.5x50 Japanese had rims a bit too thick in a couple of spots for a Lee shellholder. A couple of swipes with a needle file took care of that problem. With Norma the only alternative for that caliber, I'll buy more Prvi for the Type 38.

Ed

We have been using Prvi brass in several calibers now and have been happy with it.Funny,at present I'm having the same issue with their 8X56R brass as you have had with the 6.5X50 Japanese.The brass is catching at the base on about 2 or 3 out of 10 cases with my RCBS #13 shellholder,switched to a Lee #16 and they all fit just fine.Other than this glitch I think the Prvi brass is A ok.
As for the rifles,I have owned 2 of the carbines and one of the long rifle versions and liked them all.Lots of fun to shoot and easy to load for.

[leadman]

I was reading on old (early 50s) American Rifleman and there was a short article by a 'smith that said these are easily converted to left hand by cutting the handle off and welding it on the other side.

For those that own one does this appear to be possible?

I am a lefty and like the idea of a straight pull. I own a K-31 that I have a left hand homemade adapter on but it still does not work the best.

I had one of these many years ago before ammo was as available but sold it after I shot up the 1938 Nazi marked ammo. Did not really care for the recoil as it was stouter than my 7mm Rem mag.