lube ? or?

[5shotbfr]

i went out shooting this morning and i decided to clean my .475 today for the first time in a few months .
i have no real idea what prompted this as acuracy was still better then i can shoot.

while i was cleaning i found something i did not expect .. there was zero lead in my bore , i did not remove a single identifiable smear ,flake , or piece of lead .

now i am sure you are wondering why i expected to find lead .
well every other time i have cleaned it i have found some lead .. not enough to be concerned about just a tiny bit each time . what i would expect to be normal
after the last cleaning i did change one thing . lube!

i ran out of the lube i had been using and decided what the heck .. i pan lubed 350 boolits with my bpcr lube . it isnt anything special just 1 part beeswax 1 part crisco and a dash of synthetic 2 stroke oil .

i fully expected to have some leading using a soft lube like this with the lee 400 grn boolit as it doesnt carry very much lube . it does produce a lube star on the muzzle after 10 or so rounds and leaves the gun absolutly filthy after 25 rounds

dont get me wrong i am not complaining in any shape or form .
i just dont know what to think ...
why no leading .. is lube not as critical as i thought . or has my barrel just gotten broken in enough to no longer catch any leading

[RobS]

If you were using harder or even stickier lube that didn't move from the lube grooves then that could be your answer. I tend to make my lube soft for handguns so it flows better and I've had better results both in regards to reduced leading and better accuracy.

[5shotbfr]

the lube is considerably softer then the carnuba red i was using .

i cant say that accuracy was any better or worse though , the bfr has consistantly out shot my abilities with nearly every load i have put threw it .
i did give up reduced loads without giving them much of a chance .
out of the last 350 rounds shot .. 300 of them was full tilt loads with 26 grains of 296

[gwpercle]

One part beeswax , one part crisco and a dash of syn. 2-stroke .

This sounds simple and ecomomical . I allways preferred soft lubes .
could you give us a better idea on how how much a part and dash are? I like to experiment with lubes that prevent leading and if this one works I would like to try it . It has been my experience that just about any soft lube with beeswax tends to leave the gun a bit messy but it wipes right off so no problem.
If this blend eliminates leading I can put up up with filthy.

gary

[5shotbfr]

gwpercle

i never have been to precise in exact amounts of each ingrediant .

but at a guess if i was to use a 1 pound chunk of processed beeswax i would use a like volume of crisco . and roughly 3-4 ounces of synthetic 2 stroke oil .. benol just happens to be the brand i use .

[44man]

BP lube will work fine for smokeless. SPG is at home with smokeless but I will never use it again with BP.
After years I am not sure how much lube changes leading in the gun but there is a huge difference in accuracy.
Some lube burns and leaves ash but I am thinking what happens to the boolit and the fit of the boolit is also important. If you slump off the lube grooves before the boolit gets in the bore or if a lube runs out too soon or fills the bore with ash, you will get leading.
I have used many lubes that do not lead a bore but can see accuracy changes. Then there are some lubes that actually promote leading.
I always think flash point of oils. Alox might have the lowest.
I did something long ago for fun. I took a sheet of brass and put a dab of every lube on it and using a soldering iron, every single lube made a great flux. It was a strange thing because none of our barrels get that hot so it is not a worry. But an oil that flashes behind the boolit might alter what you get. It will be mostly pressure that flashes a lube like a diesel engine.
They put additives in fuel to prevent pre ignition, maybe that is what we need.
Many use two stroke oils and I am still up in the air about them. They are made to burn with the gas and some of them leave bad carbon behind, blocking the exhaust.
I had to get away from Stihl oil because it locked the rings in the piston and blocked the exhaust. I sure would not add it to boolit lubes.
I am always leery of a lube that blows smoke.

[leftiye]

An amazing combination. Leave out the crisco and you've got speed green. Add some carnauba and it's Lotak. Add some lithium grease and you have a form of lithi Bee. All excellent lubes.

[gwpercle]

5shotbfr,

Thanks for info....gary

[olafhardt]

My dad ran a lube canning operation and I had a car with a two cycle engine (old Saab) . He told me he canned two cycle oil out of the same tank as 30 weight regular motor oil.

[Wal']

When I was a kid with my first motorbikes, two stroke oil in name as far as I knew did not exist.

Normal lightweight oil was the standard mix. :grin:

[44man]

The problem with many straight oils is they formed flakes that looked like paraffin in the gas. The stuff blocked carbs and filters.
Synthetic cured that but not all are equal. Stihl worked in my chain saws but buggered my Husqvarna engines. It turned some rubber fuel lines to goop.
I have used those little bottles like Mantis oil with no trouble.
Stihl oil totally blocked the exhaust in my Stihl weed whacker, the big commercial model. The engine is staying clean and strong with Opti-2.
Amsoil has never been a problem.