Iron vs Aluminum Molds

[Blair]

Which produces a better formed bullet?

My situation..........

I use a cast iron pot over a cast flame or a regular open flame campfire.

I like the looks of Sharpshooter's aluminum #1bk molds but wonder if I can get lead and mold hot enough to produce filled in shot over a campfire.

[UNIQUEDOT]

Which produces a better formed bullet?

Neither... the iron molds are more durable, but the aluminum molds transfer heat faster.


I like the looks of Sharpshooter's aluminum #1bk molds but wonder if I can get lead and mold hot enough to produce filled in shot over a campfire.

Absolutely it shouldn't be a problem so long as you preheat the mold over your campfire. The cavities in these molds are horizontal to each other and should cast just fine beside a campfire.

[DODGEM250]

I'll agree. I have both Lee Aluminum molds and some old Lyman Steel molds. I have used both and I see no advantages to the end results of either casting quality bullets regardless of them being aluminum or steel. I simply prefer the Lee over the Lyman because of the Lee being cheaper priced and most always being a dual cavity.

I just noticed the campfire comment. I can't imagine using a "campfire" myself as a viable, consistent source of heat to keep the lead melted unless you can keep good control of the fire. I'm not saying it can not be done of course LOL Bullets were cast over campfire for a long time. Our military musketeers didn't have propane tanks and burners, or electric melting pots back in the day.

[shotman]

need to look it my post about handles

[turbo1889]

Sharpshooter will work but doing it over a campfire some home-made extended length handles are going to be an absolute must. You can pull off the stock wood handles and put small bolts with nuts and washers through the handle screw holes in the back end of the blocks to attach some 1/8 thick by about 3/4" wide by about two foot long strips of aluminum flat stock and then drill holes in the end of the aluminum strip in the same spot and then screw the stock handles back on to the end of those extension strips. Works like a charm, my extensions are only about 9 inches but I'm using a hot-plate for pre-heat and a bottom pore pot not a campfire. I know from experience with other molds that with casting over a campfire you will need longer handle extensions of at least two feet length. For the campfire casting I have done I have a set of mold handles that have had the wood grips removed and instead has four hose-clamps (two on each tong) that I cut lengths of tree branches in the field and then use the hose clamps to attach them as handles to make them compact to fit in the back-pack but still have long handles at camp for casting.

[Blair]

Sharpshooter will work but doing it over a campfire some home-made extended length handles are going to be an absolute must. You can pull off the stock wood handles and put small bolts with nuts and washers through the handle screw holes in the back end of the blocks to attach some 1/8 thick by about 3/4" wide by about two foot long strips of aluminum flat stock and then drill holes in the end of the aluminum strip in the same spot and then screw the stock handles back on to the end of those extension strips. Works like a charm, my extensions are only about 9 inches but I'm using a hot-plate for pre-heat and a bottom pore pot not a campfire. I know from experience with other molds that with casting over a campfire you will need longer handle extensions of at least two feet length. For the campfire casting I have done I have a set of mold handles that have had the wood grips removed and instead has four hose-clamps (two on each tong) that I cut lengths of tree branches in the field and then use the hose clamps to attach them as handles to make them compact to fit in the back-pack but still have long handles at camp for casting.

Great advice.

I have a Sharpshooter mold ordered and will make the modification needed.

Thanks.