Ruger No.1 RSI quarter rib

[Lefty SRH]

I took off the quarter rib to my No.1 RSI to take a look at some possible accuracy issues and noticed that it has a pretty good bow to it. The bow is in such a way that if you screw down the rear (close to the reciever) the front pops up a pretty good ways.
I plan on milling off about .005" off the rear of the rib to get it away from the reciever.
At this time should I try and straighten out the quarter rib a little?

[375RUGER]

A bent 1/4 rib can definately affect accuracy. At one time somebody, I don't remember who, made a replacement. I've never had to deal with a bent 1/4 rib on mine. I also have never owned a RSI either.
You might give Ruger a call and see if they will help you.

I think it would be a gamble to try and straighten it, might work, might not. It might just break.

What exactly are your accuracy issues?

[Lefty SRH]

A bent 1/4 rib can definately affect accuracy. At one time somebody, I don't remember who, made a replacement. I've never had to deal with a bent 1/4 rib on mine. I also have never owned a RSI either.
You might give Ruger a call and see if they will help you.

I think it would be a gamble to try and straighten it, might work, might not. It might just break.

What exactly are your accuracy issues?

The shots string as the barrel heats up. I took it off and milled .005" off the end so it doesn't touch the reciver. That is supposed to relieve some issues aswell. I did NOT try and straighten the rib. I had read where some break very easily. I didn't to risk it.

[Plinkster]

I'm doing a bit of No 1 tinkering right now also. This week I bedded the fore arm and drilled and tapped the hanger for a tensioning set screw. I may have to look to the quarter rib if these don't fix my stringing issues. Have you tried the tensioner route on the fore arm hanger?

[Lefty SRH]

I'm doing a bit of No 1 tinkering right now also. This week I bedded the fore arm and drilled and tapped the hanger for a tensioning set screw. I may have to look to the quarter rib if these don't fix my stringing issues. Have you tried the tensioner route on the fore arm hanger?

I haven't messed with the forearm yet, haven't even taken it off. Is your No.1 an RSI, where the forearm runs the full length of the barrel?
I've been told that milling the end of the rib(or even filing) to create a small gap between the rib and the reciever will take care of a significant amount of stringing. I cant say this to be true or false but I did cut my rib .005" shorter to see what happens. My rib was definately pushing on my reciever.

What book, manual, video, etc is recommended to refer to for bedding? I'd like to try this that I know could benefit from it but I don't know how the 1st thing about the work.

[nanuk]

I have also read, that after relieving the rib at the receiver, to elongate the forward screw hole a hair

then tighten the rear screw TIGHT, and the front screw snug.

this allows the rib to slightly float, and not defect the barrel which heats at a different rate than the rib

[Plinkster]

No, mine is a No. 1b.I had forgotten that the RSI was the mannlicher stocked version. I havent made a trip to the range yet so I cant say if my bedding job did any actual good but I can say it took out ALL slop that used to be in the fore end. I just used olive oil in a spray can for release agent and 2 part epoxy for bedding compound. I did 2 guns at the same time and they were both very easy. Basically you just spray EVERYTHING you don't want to be one with the stock and fill any holes with modeling clay. I went over everthing with an acid brush after a spritz with oil just to make sure it was all over the metal. Then visually inspect for gaps between metal and wood where they shouldn't be, these I marked on the hidden (interior) side of the stock with a sharpie so I knew where I could slop epoxy. This was my first time bedding anything and I used a 1hr set time epoxy as its what i had on hand. In the future I'll be going with 15 min as I had to wait too long for the epoxy to thicken up before it would stay in place. I'll readily admit that after screwing the stocks back on and positioning the rifles to cure I was convinced I'd just permanently mounted the stocks. 24hrs later though both stocks popped off with just the amount of pressure I associate with a tight fit. The first time was scary, now all my guns are on the list. I don't know if the RSI's benefit from the Hick's Accurizer style tension screw but i will show what I found to be far cheaper and pretty easy and straight forward.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/1497050788a8a37d36.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=7014)
So what you are looking at is a 6-32 set screw that runs through the hanger, in the hammer strut slot. This job also was far easier than I'd envisioned. if you leave the hammer strut in place while starting the hole it can be used to keep the drill tip from wandering. I just drilled perpendicular to the bottom of the slot cut, in-line with the barrel but angled toward the muzzle, to establish a spot drill. Then I simply drilled straight toward the barrel all the way through. The biggest problem I had was that I hadn't relived the sides of the slot for my tap and it hit and tried to wobble around when getting started. I simply put a piece of aluminum shim between the barrel and screw and called it good. If anyone is interested in more detail I can do some mock up pics of how I did this mod.

[Frank46]

My 31 in 45/70 has the same problem. After taking it completely off dowels and all it shows an upward sweep right at the front of the receiver. My problem with that particular rifle has always been getting the scope down low and far back enough so I don't have to crawl the stock to get a good sight picture and cheek weld. Otherwise I would shoot it way more than i have. Frank

[Lefty SRH]

I shot mine today I and I didn't notice "as much" stringing shots, but I'm on the early side of developing a new load also. Time will tell.

[Franklin Zeman]

I have used a bit of rubber that is a thin gasket material. Just cut it and trim for a fit where the tenon and wood come together. Just snug the forearm screw but dont over tighten. This has worked on #1's and #3's. The piece is about the size of a dime.

[pietro]

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I wouldn't advise trying to "straighten" a Ruger #1 rib, since AFAIK it's a casting.

I DO know that besides the ribs with different topsides (srear sight/no sight), there are at least three different rib underside contours, to fit the different barrel contours/thickness' on different #1 models ( A #1-S .45-70 has a diff bbl size/shape than, say, a #1-A .30-06 does).




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