auto pistol ejector cut-back?

[JHeath]

Can I fix auto pistol ejection issues by filing down the ejector lug? I am trying to delay ejection until the cartridge has cleared the barrel hood and ejection port. I would also like the pistol to not throw cases so far.

Tokarev pistols have a reputation for throwing brass into the next county. Also, some don't want to manually eject an unfired cartridge when unloading the gun. My M57 only ejects an unfired cartridge if I retract the slide really hard and fast. If retract the slide slowly, it jams because the cartridge tries to eject it has cleared the barrel hood and ejection port. This makes it difficult to unload the pistol without flinging the chambered round across the room.

It seems like issue is that the ejector lug reaches too far forward, so the case head strikes it too soon during the slide stroke. It seems a simple remedy to shorten the ejector lug in small increments, test-firing occasionally to make sure ejection isn't getting too weak.

However, everybody complains about Tok ejection distances even with heavier springs, and I don't hear of them filing back the ejector lug. Is there a reason not to try this?

[I'll Make Mine]

If you have a spare ejector to put in if you find you've either gone to far or made things worse some other way, there's little or no reason not to try what you suggest. I'd certainly go in very small increments and not expect much in terms of cutting down on the velocity of ejected brass until you're very, very close to having taken too much off. Signs you've gone too far would be things like smokestacks (round starts ejecting too late and gets caught by the returning slide) and other jams caused by the ejecting case interfering with the feed of the new round.

One presumes the Tokarev designers made the ejector as they did because they didn't care about recovering brass for reloading, didn't care very much about where the ejected round goes when clearing a loaded chamber, and wanted the pistol to be as reliable as possible in normal operation (the high velocity ejection must greatly reduce the kinds of jams we see with pistols that leave the brass at the shooter's feet or throw just barely over the shoulder).

[JHeath]

Thanks, _I'll Make Mine_. The Tok ejector is an integral lug on the "fire control group" assembly. So I can't buy a spare without buying the whole assembly. But your advice is very helpful, especially about the sweet-spot being in a narrow margin that I could quickly overshoot.

Possibly if I go too far I could tack a little metal back on the lug and file to shape.

Thanks for the encouragement.

[MBTcustom]

"Pistolsmithing" by George C. Nonte Jr. goes into a good bit of detail on how to tune an auto loader to drop the brass wherever you want it to land. He deals mainly with 1911's but the principles are the same for most auto loaders.

[leftiye]

Same with the CZ52, I have considered cutting back the ejector pin too. In my case the idea was to give the ejector less time to pivot the case, and this at a slower slide speed. Works the same for any stationary ejector, even a Mauser.

[JHeath]

Thanks for the book recommendation, Tim. Is that also the best general-purpose pistolsmithing book, if I could only buy one?

[Reverend Recoil]

George C. Nonte Jr's book shows up on Ebay from time to time. That is where I got mine.

[MBTcustom]

Thanks for the book recommendation, Tim. Is that also the best general-purpose pistolsmithing book, if I could only buy one?

In my opinion, yes. I don't agree with everything the guy says, but I highly respect his methods.
No milling machines, and lots of hand work. Lots of little tweaks to auto loaders and revolvers. Its old information, but much of it is still as relevant today as it was when it was written.
If there is a more complete single reference for pistolsmithing, I have not found it yet. A real treasure for any gunsmith. Matter of fact, I cut my teeth in this trade by doing what he writes about. If you can do half of what he writes about in that book, and make it look good and professional, you are head and shoulders above most gunsmiths out there.
Much of the knowledge can be applied to rifles also.
Go ahead and buy a copy, if you don't like it, list it on swappin and sellin and you will get your money back in a matter of hours.

[Ramar]

Is this the going price; or should I search more? http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/pistolsmithing-george-c-nonte-jr/1102566094
Thanks,
Ramar

[MBTcustom]

Seems way too low for what lies between the covers. I had no idea it could be had for less than $30.
I'd buy that sucker! Heck I'd buy two at that price.