Lyman 45 buying guide and cleanup instructions

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I don't think Lyman has made the #45 lubesizer for about 50 years,
and it remains one of the favorite lubesizers for many of us boolit casters.
Over the past few years, I seem to have become an expert on them
(said tongue in cheek).

Twice, I have bought/traded for a box of parts (some broken)
and have re-assembled/built several #45 lubesizers from those parts.
I have also designed/built/sold a stronger replacement handle/linkage kit,
which is the major weak "LINK" in the #45's design IMHO.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=107488
fyi, I am no longer selling them.

In the last year, I have bought several complete units (like the photo's below),
that only needed cleaning to be able to use it. Many other members here
have done the same...and some of them, if they were NEW to lubesizing boolits,
they would post the question, "What's the best way to clean up a
lubesizer ?"
So I thought I'd start a detailed thread on answering
that question...and a few others.

201095

201096

I bought this at the local gunshow last week, which I am a vendor at.
Since I was there the whole weekend, I was able to negociate
with the vendor over the weekend and get his price down
from his asking price...assuming he didn't sell it to someone else,
a risk I didn't mind taking since I didn't really even want another sizer.
He had alot of other used reloading tools, he told me he sells lubesizers
all the time on fleaBay for $80 to $100...why wasn't he selling this one there ?
I suspect he surfed through fleabay and seen what they go for and was
just BSing me. He also had a nice old Ideal .257 "pointy" style boolit mold.
at the end of the weekend, I paid $75 for the #45 and the mold...a great deal.

btw, What I got is what is shown in the photo, no wrench, no top punch, but
there is a .358 die installed...Bonus ! that's worth about $15 if you don't need it.

201097

I suspected the Red color wasn't original, of the many 45's I've owned
and seen, they have all been Orange (or repainted). The lighting at the
gunshow wasn't real good at this guys table, but I did catch a glipse of the
bottom...Yep some original orange paint.

201098

201099


The top cast iron piece that is suppose to slide on the reservior tube
was stuck (glued with old lube), So I couldn't check the function and
if there was a top punch and die installed, I could have checked the
allignment if it was stuck. For the looks inside the reservior, the lube
has leaked past the pressure nut, So I assume it hasn't been upgraded
to the O-ring style pressure nut which should eliminate that leaking.
But at first glimpse, since it was repainted and the Hex end of the
pressure screw looked in mint condition, I had hoped that the
pressure nut and screw was upgraded...I guess we'll see for sure
when I get it taken apart...Later...

btw, in hindsight, I could have warmed the reservior tube up with
my hand to get the lube to loosen it's grip and maybe borrowed
a top punch from the vendor and checked for function and allignment.
this would have been a smart thing to have done.


http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/lefthandtightnesstestviewRed45.jpg

another thing to check for when buying a #45 lubesizer is if the
slide rods or the cast iron parts are worn from excessive use without
proper lubrication. Remember it's at least 50 years old !
Grab the upper piece with the left hand as shown above and
grab the lower piece with the right hand as shown below.
with the upper piece lowered most or all of the way, try to twist them.
It should NOT move, it should be tight.
If the upper piece is raised up all the way, there maybe a little
movement and that's OK, but it's better if there isn't any,
if the slide rod nuts are not tight, that can also cause this same
looseness I am discribing...tighten them and try twisting again.

I reiterate, When the upper peice is lowered all the way, if there is any
slop/movement when twisting, you will not be able to size boolits
consistantly and imperfectly sized boolits (NOT concentric, think lop-sided)
will be the result due to varied allignment of top punch and Die
and I WOULD NOT BUY IT...except for parts.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/righthandtightnesstestviewRed45.jpg

Another common problem to look for is a crack in the lower
cast iron peice, between the die setscrew and the die. This is
caused by over tightening. It's impossible to fix for the average
handyman/reloader...maybe a skilled welder could braze that
cast iron, but I have never had to deal with it and I would recommend
avoiding buying one that's cracked. Photo below shows a close up
of the area in question. This one is NOT cracked.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/closeupdiesetscrewviewRed45.jpg


Good luck, I hope this helps,
Jon

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

The first step is to remove the Die. It is much easier to remove the die when the press is mounted to a bench. Heat up the area around the die with a heat gun, lamp, or the sun. Also, in this case the reservior tube needed to be heated as there was old lube that basically glued the mechanism tight. This is some different kind of lube, heat didn't totally melt it. I completely remove the setscrew as I plan to completely disassemble the press (except for removing the reservior tube from the cast iron base).

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/1diesetscrewremoved.jpg

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/2heat.jpg

This die is being a little stubborn. I suspect it has to do with the lube not wanting to totally melt like a typical beewax based lube. I soak the die area with kroil hoping that will loosen up the Lube (Ed's Red or mineral spirits should work too).

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/3clean.jpg

Another trick/safety measure is to put a pure lead boolit or ingot under the depth control pin and gently tap (with a dead blow hammer or lead hammer) the bottom bar that the boolit is sitting on. Still applying heat. The pure lead boolit should absorb some of the shock and hopefully avoid damaging other parts of the press.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/4pureleadboolit.jpg

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/5pushup.jpg

once the die moves a little bit, just raising the handle should push the die the rest of the way out.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/6removed.jpg

Now remove the pressure nut by turning the pressure screw clockwise (if looking down at the top of the press). If you can see the pressure nut, it should be rising and not turning...if it is not rising and is just turning around, you have a problem. Usually this is just from the lube reservior being heated and the warm lube acts like a lubricant, if this is the case the press must be cooled. Wait til it returns to room temp. The Lube will stiffen up and you should be able to remove the pressure nut. If that doesn't work, you probably have some mechanical problem, like damaged threads or if the pressure nut has bottomed out at the end of the threads of the pressure screw, that can lock it up. If the threads are damaged...good luck !?! If the nut is bottomed out, COLD is your friend, try putting the press into the freezer for an hour or two. The first instinct is to wedge a screwdriver between the reservoir tube and the pressure nut...BUT DON'T !!! You're just going to damage things.


http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/7unscrewpressurenut.jpg

Once the pressure nut is this far out, it should just lift off the pressure screw.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/8liftoff.jpg

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/9outandoff.jpg

Now the pressure screw can be removed. I can just be pushed out. If it's being stubborn, heat it up a little bit. If you still can't remove it, Gently tap it with a dead blow or Lead hammer while heat is applied.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/10pushpressurescrewout.jpg

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Now that the die, pressure nut, and pressure screw have been removed, the depth control assembly can be removed...the parts are shown below.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/11removedepthcntlassy.jpg

Now the Lube can be removed. Some folks boil it out, I tried it once, and I failed to wait til everything cooled so the lube would solidify on the top of the water.
So I had a Big mess ! When I removed the hot/warm sizer from the hot/warm water, the hot/warm lube floating on top decided to cling to the sizer like static cling...then trying to wipe off the hot/warm lube off the hot/warm sizer was an incredibly Big chore !
So I haven't tried it again, but since others have been successful, I guess it works.

I use a heatgun, it works well for me. I do this outside, and prop the sizer in a cardboard box to catch all the lube. I'm not trying to save the lube, just get it out and throw it away (or use it for flux).

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/12heatmeltlube.jpg

OK, whatever this lube is... "portions" of it ain't melting !!!! Maybe the lube ingrediants have separated ? But I am skeptical of that. I think someone filled it with a soft black grease (maybe lyman super moly?), but there are deposits of a very hard lube in the bottom of the reservior and in the bottom cast iron piece, obviously plugging it up...and that is probably why there was grease coming out of the top...the last person that tried to use this sizer surely failed to make it work.

So I removed all the soft grease with a screwdriver. Then paper towels wrapped on the screwdriver to get any residue so I could get a better idea of how much of the hard deposits were in there. Well there was plenty. I will try soaking all the parts with hard deposits in mineral spirits once it's all completely disassembled.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/13lubewoulntmelt.jpg

Now the slide rods and spring can be removed and the upper cast iron piece can be removed too.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/14removeslideandspring.jpg

I wasn't originally wasn't going to remove the lube reservior tube from the lower cast iron piece because it is a difficult task and is easy to damage the tube...also the threads are super fine and can easily be crossed were reassembling.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/16removereserviortube.jpg

I put all the parts into the bowl and covered then with mineral spirits. I let it sit for a few hours. The hard deposits softened some, so I picked them out with wooden chop sticks, so I wouldn't scratch things up. It took a while and maybe if I was patient enough to let the parts soak for a day or two, it would have been easier ?

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/17aftersoakingandscrubbing.jpg

Well, I got this far, I might as well remove all the paint and try to repaint it with some Chevy engine paint.

I will remove all the bluing and break out the cold blue solution. I've never got a nice dark blue/black finish like the original finish from cold bluing, but it'll at least be a uniform dark grey and provide some rust protection for the metal.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/18paintremoved.jpg

After completely degreasing all the parts, I used some heavy wheelbearing grease on all the threaded areas and where the die inserts and where the slides slide through. After the paint cured, it was easy to remove the paint from those greased areas. I used birchwood-casey cold blue on all the other parts (except the new spring). I applied it many times, although it looks pretty good in the photos, it's still dark grey "in person".

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/paintedandcoldbluedparts.jpg

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/frontview-1.jpg

I really dislike the original SMALL wooden handle, so I found a chunk of stag horn to replace that...a guy has to personalize a project somehow, right ?

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/antlerhandle.jpg

[PB234]

Jon, I look forward to the future posts. I have a Lyman 45 waiting for my attention. It has a sizing die stuck in it. I tried a heat gun and failed. Really do not look forward to trying to boil it.

[marlin39a]

I bought a #45 in 2003 off EBAY for $38.50. I only bought it because it was advertised as very nice in the original box. Had it up in a display cabinet until I saw this post. Opened the box and found it to be perfect in every way. Has a 358 die and a 416 top punch. I'm going to clean it up today after having it around for 9 years.

[theperfessor]

Nice post, JonB. A Lyman 45 in good shape can be a real nice luber. Will watch the progress here with interest.

[GOPHER SLAYER]

I have owned many #45 sizers in the past and currently own two. I should sell them since I have eight other sizers but they are in such great shape I enjoy just looking at them. If your sizer were mine I would have to remove the red paint, muy pronto. I do like the bright orange of the original paint. I have found that the 45 works about as well as any other sizer. It is also the easiest sizer in which to change the dies and top punch.

[alrighty]

What a great and timely post.I just sniped one off of fleabay while I slept for 35.00 . It was advertized as a chapman , yeah I knew the wrench came with it at least.I know nothing about the model 45.I have an old RCBS right now.The lyman looks a little bit rusty so hopefully this thread will help me out.It also has a sizing die and top punch so should be worth what I paid.Here is the link , you may can tell by pics what all I will probably need.Thanks again for this information.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANTIQUE-LUBRICATOR-AND-SIZER-CHAPMAN-CONN-/390472661957?ru=http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=390472661957&_rdc=1&nma=true&si=qnVMBv6EXojiCrthHY48p4fo7jo%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Before I install a lubesizer die, I will "eye up" the lube grooves to the holes in the Die and get an idea how far the boolit has to enter the die. Then only small adjustments are needed to get it perfect. These older style dies have stagered rows of holes, so even this double lube groove Wad cutter boolit I use in this example only needs one row of holes.

These older style dies have larger holes than newer ones and can be troublesome. meaning they are more likely to allow Lube to get under the base of the boolit or fill the crimp groove. Plugging some of the holes is one answer..."Gearnasher" posted this hint several times and it works great for me. Find some solid solder, lead free seems to work best, but 50/50 should probably work too. It must be solid and NOT flux core. I insert a piece as shown in the third photo and rivet it, to fill the hole. Ideally you should leave a "head" on the outside, but even just a ridge on one side seems to be enough, plus the old dies are a bit larger and there isn't much clearance when inserting the riveted die into the lubesizer.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/holeallignmentI.jpg

The die has been rotated 90º
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/holeallignmentII.jpg

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/diewithsolderrivet.jpg



==========================================
below is the original post,
==========================================

alrighty,
Good snipe !!!
I looked at the photos of yours in the fleabay link. Yeah except for the rust, it's real nice. That's one of the older ones with the cast brass cap. Also, there is some aluminum/silver piece on one of the slides, I wonder if that is Lyman's gas check installation tool, I've never seen one, so that is just a guess, I'd be interested in buying that gas check installation tool if you don't want it. The rust on the slides and lube reservior should most definately be removed...use great care as to not remove too much metal from the slides. I did clean up my red 45 today and took extensive photos, and will post them with my instructions and tips tomorrow or tuesday. I did have an issue with Lube removal, so I took it totally apart just to clean out some hardened lube in the lower cast iron piece that Heat and mineral spirits couldn't touch. I strongly suggest you disassemble it to remove the rust, even though you could probably clean it up without disassembly.

GOPHER SLAYER,
I wasn't planning on re-paint...But as mentioned above, it is totally apart, so I may as well. I'm thinking the Chevy engine "hi-temp" orange should be close enough.

[alrighty]

I will take it completely apart , I will also take some better pics once it arrives.I will have to find a manual for it as well.Thanks

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Did you run the pressure screw all the way to the bottom and now the pressure nut seems locked to the pressure screw and/or the bottom of the reservoir tube ?

Here is how I would get it loose.

FIRST, DON'T under any circumstances wedge a screwdriver between the pressure nut and the inside of the reservior tube...that was my first instinct when this first happened to me, but is the easiest way to wreck the reservior tube...and that is fragile and nearly impossible to find or make a replacement.

ALSO, DON"T heat up your sizer....at least not yet.

Your pressure screw and pressure nut are Likely not stripped out...it is bottomed out. one of two things has happened, depending on which pressure screw you have. some are threaded farther down to the bottom than others. So your pressure nut has either run out of threads and it is TIGHT to the pressure screw. OR your pressure Nut is bottomed out on the bottom of the reservoir. Either way, "COLD LUBE" is your friend here. put it in the freezer for an hour or so, then...

with the cold press unmounted, unscrew the pressure screw...hoping the ice cold lube will grip the pressure nut. If it does, the pressure screw will back out of the bottom of the press. If the cold lube isn't gripping the pressure nut, maybe heat up the lube with a heat gun, then chill again in the freezer for an hour...that may help the lube adhere to the pressure nut.

If that works...once the pressure screw is nearly all the way out, but it's still got full threading on the pressure nut (if not you can damage the threads)...

THEN add heat with heat gun, blow drier, boiling water or what have you...then push the pressure screw back in to the reservoir and this will push the pressure nut up and out the top.

If you are successful and decide to clean it up....If the lube is decades old, it may need more than heat to remove it...soaking in mineral spirits works best, but fully submerged in boiling water is safer and sometimes works.

good luck,
Jon


================================
original post below
================================
there is a manual in the sticky's
always look to the sticky's !!! lol
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=34525

[alrighty]

alrighty,
That's one of the older ones with the cast brass cap. Also, there is some aluminum/silver piece on one of the slides, I wonder if that is Lyman's gas check installation tool, I've never seen one, so that is just a guess, I'd be interested in buying that gas check installation tool if you don't want it. The rust on the slides and lube reservior should most definately be removed...use great care as to not remove too much metal from the slides.

I wasn't sure about the aluminum piece on the slide either.I did "google" gas check installation tool.I could not get any pictures only one description that stated the aluminum piece seats the gas check when it bottoms out on the stroke.Tell ya what "insert horse trading here" I don't have the expertise to really mess with it.I will keep it long enough to make a detailed print.It is wonderful at times being a machinist [smilie=p:
I am sure that I will end up making new slides from the looks of it.I may however need some other parts like springs and such.I see you may be able to help me out.:bigsmyl2:When and if it arrives I will start the rebuild process and send it out to you.As much as you are helping out myself and others on these old machines I couldn't think of anyone more deserving.Please when you figure out if it is worth the effort let us know with a report.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

edited and added the following.

Thanks to alrighty for sending me this some time back, what I figured was a gas check installation tool for Lyman 45 the first time I seen it. I finally got around to installing it and trying it out with some 30 cal boolits where the GC's were a little stubborn to install. It only alligns the GC as good as your eyeball...But it does work better than the method I used previously...a Penny set on top of the die. This easily swings in and swings out.

It'd probably be an easy machining project if there was enough interest...although since I am not a machinist, that is just a guess.

And as I promised alrighty, I'd post photos once I got it setup.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/Lyman45GCinstallerattachmentI_zpsbb57a879.jpg

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/Lyman45GCinstallerattachmentII_zps97d61af1.jpg

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/Lyman45GCinstallerattachmentIII_zps66f006e6.jpg


==========================
previous post
\/
alrighty,
Yeah, that all sounds great.
I do have lots of extra "small parts" as trade fodder.
Jon

[Wayne Smith]

Guys, that is NOT the gas check tool. It is a steel piece that goes under the size die and prevents the internal rod from moving. This allows seating the gas check on the internal rod of the die. It does not attach to the sizer at all, just sits in place. Works well.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Wayne,
thanks for that info...I kinda of thought that, but since I never seen one, I wasn't sure. I have considered making one like that...with a small indent/hole so the internal rod is lowered about 1/4" for allignment. Because, some dies have an internal rod that's the same length as the die while others are shorter.


alrighty,
I'm still interested in that piece...whatever it is ???

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Posts #2 and #3 "Disassembly and Cleanup" are now completed.

I think this might make a good sticky.
I tried to answer all the common questions that come up regularly.

I'm sure there are other hints tips and tricks,
if you post them, I'll add them
in somewhere in one of first three posts.
Jon

[fryboy]

"I'm thinking the Chevy engine "hi-temp" orange should be close enough."

it is for me :P actually it's me fav color !!! ( yeah imma chevy guy ) in truth i believe ye olde allis chambers orange is a closer match but i have yet to see it in hi-heat foo foo can , the old dodge hemi color is also close de1652 ( the de1620 chevy orange is a wee bit redder but not as red as de1607 chevy red-orange ), loving this post !!! when i remove the body tubes i use a strap wrench , i've bought a couple that someone either used a pipe wrench or vise grips on ( well ..maybe channel locks ? ) of note if they had used a piece of leather for a cushion it wouldnt of hosed the tube :( or at least as bad

[Dean D.]

Fantastic thread Jon! I'm gonna sticky it now.

[Wayne Smith]

Jon, with the cold blue try multiple coats, see if you can't get a more satisfying color. It is controlled to some extent by the type of steel used.

[462]

When I re-conditioned my 45, I used Brownells Oxpho-Blue cold blue on the lube reservoir, and Rustoleum Glossy Real Orange on the body components and handle.

I liked the Real Orange so much, I stripped the 4500's hammmer-tone finish and re-painted it orange.

[alrighty]

alrighty,
I'm still interested in that piece...whatever it is ???

Jon , it is still yours.Hopefully my fleabay score will show up soon.I was not planning on using my "new" Lyman to seat checks.I am planning on setting this one up for sizing and lubing my low velocity pistol boolits.I already have a NOE gas check seater as well as my old LAM RCBS lubrisizer.Thanks again for taking the time and great pictures to show us how to rebuild these.I will send a pm when it arrives and get your mailing address.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I've added photo's of the finished "painted" and "blued" Lyman 45 in post #2

I also edited post #9 ...adding photos and hints on how to adjust the boolit depth and how to plug some holes in a standard Lyman die to solve "over lubing" problems.
Jon

[Fan of the 1911]

Thanks for the post, I almost have mine ready to run, I'm going to tweek a few things first. I used a file handle for mine, looks ok.

[Any Cal.]

Appreciated this thread. Bought a 45 here and it was great having all the info on it. I didn't restore mine, just got all the old black hard stuff out and got it back into service. This many years later it is still a good little tool!

[oldtoolsniper]

I thought I would add to this thread, based on Jon's instructions in this post I'm cleaning up, repainting, and repairing four Lyman 45'.
This one is the worst of the lot it's in rough shape. I started with it because I figure if I can get this one cleaned up and working nice the rest should be a breeze.
61004

As Jon stated it is extremely difficult to remove those tubes once you have it stripped-down. I tried a strap wrench and that just slid around the tube. I too had to resort to the bicycle chain wrench.
To prevent crushing I turned a wooden dowel to the inside diameter of the tube.
61005

[oldtoolsniper]

The wooden dowel turned to the same diameter as the inside of the tube prevented me from crushing it with the chain wrench. However it still galls up the tube. Not a big deal on this one because the tube was severely rusted.
Those tubes do not come out easy. I heated it with the torch I put Kroil on it and I still didn't think I was going to get it. I guarantee without that wooden dowel in there I would've crushed that tube.
Since this tube was severely rusted I already planned on turning it on the lathe and sanding it down.
Leaving the wooden dowel slightly tapered on one end allowed me to jam the tube onto the wooden dowel. In that fashion sanding could be done under power without fear of damaging the threads.
61006
I will add more to this as I go along many thanks for an order for Jon for initially starting this thread and helping us all along with this project.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

This one is the worst of the lot it's in rough shape. 61004

OMG that's rusty !!!

I'd like to add a thought...
The fit of the guide rods through the upper and lower cast Iron pieces is really important for alignment. I'm thinking that serious rust, once removed, will leave a sloppy fit. If the cast iron pieces aren't too bad, You may be able to make (or have made) the two 5/16" diameter guide rods. I did that with one a while back, I got some 5/16" stainless steel rod scrap from work and did a little redneck machining with my drill press. I didn't get them perfect, but close enough to be functional. It'd be extremely easy for a talented machinist...and if I were to do it again, I'd let a machinist do it :)

Thanks for sharing the project.
Jon

[oldtoolsniper]

JonI'm glad you pointed that out to me. After looking at them I figured those to rods ran the entire system and if they're screwed up the sizer is not going to work. I knew from your pictures the rods were shouldered on the ends. Those nuts had to come off and I couldn't get them to do anything but turn the entire shaft. It took some head scratching and a boolit but I solved the problem.
I smashed a boolit in the vice and on the other side used to section of lead solder to protect the shaft from the teeth in the vice. The nuts turned off with no damage to the shaft.
61027

It just goes to show you boolits are nothing more than tools.

[Racenviper]

The spring on the one I got eBay was over extended, is there a good replacement?

[fryboy]

The spring on the one I got eBay was over extended, is there a good replacement?

see jon's sig line and send him a pm !!! he's a great guy to deal with !!!

[Racenviper]

I didn't even see that, duh. I don't pay any attention to them, you see the sig all the time. Thanks

[oldtoolsniper]

61538
Blueing 45 parts in stump remover.
61539
After they are done.

[josephmoore78]

I wish i could have found this post again sooner ! What is the best way to remove the paint?? And is stump remover a bluing agent??

[oldtoolsniper]

6192761928

This is the same 45 completely redone
I made the sticker too.

[oldtoolsniper]

61930
The stump remover is the same stuff brownell's sells for blueing.

NITREBLUE® BLUING SALTS


Mfr:BROWNELLS
Price:$66.99 - $111.99
Gorgeous "Fire Blue" Colors & No-Scale Tempering - A Master Metal Finisher's Secret Useable In Any Shop
Turn parts and small pieces a deep, rich, lustrous blue with a finish that's tougher and prettier than most of the cold blues. The process is really quite simple: Heat the salts up to 570° F. - 650° F. (they are NOT dissolved in water, they're used straight). Dip the parts in, watch for the color change. Lower temperatures give a "straw" color like the older Luger parts. As an added bonus, the salts can be used for the drawing operation when heat-treating springs and parts.

[oldtoolsniper]

It's not as simple as just dumping the parts in there. You have to polish everything to a mirror finish with sandpaper and then buffing wheels. The finish of the metal is the finish of the blue. It will accent any blemish in the metal. It is not paint. Your metal object must be completely stripped of anything and everything other wise you get a violent eruption of 700 degree liquid. If you can't or won't polish your metal to a mirror finish it's best to leave this alone. YOU and YOU alone are responsible to determine if this is safe for you to do.

This stuff melts at 633 degrees Fahrenheit.

The picture is there because this is the exact stump remover you need. Not some other type or brand, this is the only one I have used. If you go another route I wish you luck and safety.


I am sure it causes cancer in California.

[oldtoolsniper]

61933
The chemical to remove stumps.
Potassium nitrate msds

http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9927232

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

can this stuff (Potassium nitrate) be re-used ?
Or is it a one use, then dump ?
Dump where ? do I need to find a stump :) lol
Jon

[autopilotmp]

JonB,

from what I have seen the salts will solidify on cooling and you can reheat them for use later. The video I watched about this said to be cautious when it is reheated cause it can get hot on the bottom and erupt through the top crust spewing the hot salt.

[Spawn-Inc]

mix it with some sugar, stick a fuse in it and you have a smoke bomb!

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

61928
This is the same 45 completely redone
I made the sticker too.
oldtoolsniper, I thought you might like to see these...a couple photos of the only intact "original" 45 labels I have.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/Labels_zpsa973e61e.jpg
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/Labelcloseup_zps9ad30e8b.jpg

[oldtoolsniper]

As far as erupting salts, it could happen, I have not had it happen. I went a long time smelting lead pipe before the tinsel fairy came to visit. I was thirty feet away crushing pipe in the log splitter and I am now believer! It was on the side of the house and hanging in the low branches of the tree overhead. I now dress accordingly.

I have no interest in adding stuff to make any kind of pyrotechnics, saw way to many injuries during my 23 years as a Marine from that stuff.

[oldtoolsniper]

Back to the subject.

Jon is that white one a sticker like the clear one? I might be able to create that one. Take a look at the lower casting and see what your casting mark is on the ones you have. I would be interested to know what they are and what decal is attached to the casting number.

The clear one shows how to trim the stickers better than I can describe it.

[autopilotmp]

Mine is casted with a 3 and had a clear sticker. I say had only half was there and that came off along with what was left of the paint.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Jon is that white one a sticker like the clear one? I might be able to create that one. Take a look at the lower casting and see what your casting mark is on the ones you have. I would be interested to know what they are and what decal is attached to the casting number.
the white label looks like a 2-ply label that is delaminating.
the white label unit has a "2" on the lower casting.
the clear label unit has a "U1" on the lower casting

btw I just sold the white label unit to another CB member, I included a rev I handle with it...not the rev II handle as shown in the photo above.
Jon

[oldtoolsniper]

I am going to add some pictures of mine, the casting marks. I am betting they are from production runs and they most likely date the modifications to these tools. That explains the different threads and lack of interchangeability. Stanley tool works did this with their hand planes. The screws were cut in house forcing you to use them for repair parts for one thing, but I think back then it was a cheaper method of production. I doubt they were ever thinking someone would collect these things or ever rebuild one.

For parts I am betting matching those casting marks gets you the same cut parts.

I learned these lessons the hard way buying old tools. If the screw or bolt is not the correct one from the factory most likely the threads in the hole are destroyed and there is no replacement. You now have a paper weight or a lot of work ahead of you. Even making a screw by hand at minimum wage put's the price of that kind of repair beyond current worth of one of these tools.

[oldtoolsniper]

Clear label has a curved border and the white one is square.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Clear label has a curved border and the white one is square.
I seen that, and that's why I posted the photo's...Plus I knew that white labeled unit was soon to be sold, and figured I should document it through a photo.
Jon

[oldtoolsniper]

62780

62781

62782

Of the four I have these are three casting marks. The bottom U over 2 I have two of and these parts all exchange freely.

[autopilotmp]

I wonder what the "u" is for, mine has a "3" but no "u". I will add a pic later today.

[oldtoolsniper]

62788

62789

Two different cut op rods. Square cut set is 1/4" longer.

[autopilotmp]

I haven't had any luck getting the screws that hold the op rods to back out. Any suggestions that won't damage them?

[ultramag]

I seen that, and that's why I posted the photo's...Plus I knew that white labeled unit was soon to be sold, and figured I should document it through a photo.
Jon

oldtoolsniper....I bought the white labeled unit from JonB. If you need anymore information on it to help you sort through this just let me know. I'd be glad to help out and provide whatever info you need. I was even a machinist back in another life and could provide accurate measurements, thread pitches, etc....

Also, if you do happen to recreate this exact label I would obviously be interested.

[oldtoolsniper]

The screws at the bottom? Be vary careful and take your time. I used a propane torch and heated them followed by immediate quenching in cold water and they came right out. If you don't want to go to that extreme PB Blaster in the gallon can for $19.00 a gallon here in Iowa is a good way to go. Fill up a can or jar and soak the parts in it for a few hours. I use the heat method because I was re-bluing mine using the 700 degree hot method so losing the blue or changing the color by heat did not matter to me.

PB Blaster eats some plastic and it really does a job on Styrofoam cups. If you decide to use your Styrofoam coffee cup save yourself some time. Just dump the PB Blaster all over what you were going to set the cup on. If you add the Styrofoam it's really a sticky mess to clean up. Not that I know first hand.....

[oldtoolsniper]

Jon,
Compare the clear and the white sticker if you can, the white one appears taller than the clear one. it could be the angle of the photo as well.

[oldtoolsniper]

ultramag I am going to see what I can do.. Dang it now I am off on another tool expedition.. This is going to cost me money...

Is there a simple way to figure out screw threads and pitch? One a common man can understand. Right now I use the nut checker at the hardware store.

The link below takes you to my experience as a Machinist.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?48453-Adventures-in-top-punch-making-(Long)

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Yes the white label is taller and the type of the first two lines is larger...I don't know by how much...it is now packaged for shipment :(
I'm sure ultramag can get you dimensions next week when it arrives.
Jon

[ultramag]

ultramag I am going to see what I can do.. Dang it now I am off on another tool expedition.. This is going to cost me money...

Is there a simple way to figure out screw threads and pitch? One a common man can understand. Right now I use the nut checker at the hardware store.

The link below takes you to my experience as a Machinist.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?48453-Adventures-in-top-punch-making-(Long)

There is a tool called a "thread pitch gauge" that is the most common I'm aware of. That combined with measuring the diameter will give you what you need to cut/match your threads. I'll do a little Google work and see if I can come up with a link to a reasonable place to pick one up or at least see what I'm referring to.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Is there a simple way to figure out screw threads and pitch? One a common man can understand. Right now I use the nut checker at the hardware store.

I bought a bunch of screws at the hardware store...trial and error was my technique. some on the lyman 45 are 8-36. IIRC I used some 8-36 setscrews in replacement for the knurled screws on the bottom of the guide rods...as shown below, click to enlarge.
Jon

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/th_1fLTsidefull_zps1e0172ba.jpg (http://s640.beta.photobucket.com/user/JonB_in_Glencoe/media/1fLTsidefull_zps1e0172ba.jpg.html)

[oldtoolsniper]

Poop! That's what I was afraid of. Bigger means a whole new set-up. I had never seen the white one. The clear and colored are the only ones I had seen till you burst my bubble.

[ultramag]

Here is a link to a video showing the thread pitch gauge and how it works.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gdvtw0pTAOs

I won't bother linking to where to buy. Just Google "thread pitch gauge" or something close to that and you'll find tons of them. Prices ranging from a $7 unit from Sears/Craftsman up to $50+ units from Mitituyo and Starett etc... It really is quite the handy tool if you do much of this kind of work oldtoolsniper. Hope this helps....any more info needed just ask.

As for the label measurements I can provide them for you when it arrives if you want them. JonB needs to get it shipped to it's excited new owner. :mrgreen:

[oldtoolsniper]

UM,

Jon and I have done business he is a fast shipper and straight up to deal with. I can't find an example of that white sticker on any 45 I can locate pictures of. Of course my search has gone in about 40 different directions with each picture I find.

I also have not found reference to anyone making reproduction stickers for lymans.

[ultramag]

UM,

Jon and I have done business he is a fast shipper and straight up to deal with. I can't find an example of that white sticker on any 45 I can locate pictures of. Of course my search has gone in about 40 different directions with each picture I find.

I also have not found reference to anyone making reproduction stickers for lymans.

I've dealt with Jon as well OTS...that was just a little good natured ribbing on my part. I'll post some measurements and whatever else you need when the 45 arrives.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

when fryboy sees all this Lyman45 activity, he might chime in on some label details...I think he told me that he has a white labeled unit.
Jon

PS, ultramag the Box has shipped !

[The Black Pearl]

Well heres a couple pics of mine cleaned up, didnt like the bluing might have to take it apart and try something different... someday right now it works great!!!
6380163802638036380463805

[Raven_Darkcloud]

Mine will be here on teusday. I got it with 4 dies for $80. I am also getting 2 scales too.
64433

[Raven_Darkcloud]

It got here early. woot woot. [smilie=w: It is all pulled down now and I am covered in old as dirt black sticky lube but almost ready to strip it to bear metal. Is it sacrilegious to paint a color of my picking? I do not see this leaving me before I die.
The best part was I got both a .357 and .311 die with it. I also got .257 and .429, hold them till later.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Is it sacrilegious to paint a color of my picking?

While I do like the original color, I say paint it the color you like best, you'll be the one looking at it for hours on end while sizing boolits :)
Jon

[oldtoolsniper]

I am thinking of getting one nickle plated. One thing I like about reloading tools is that folks don't freak out when you clean one up so it can be used. I get a lot of grief from wood working tool collectors because I tear em down and restore them. They seem to like patina (rust and grime) on their tools. Funny when you put one of mine restored, next to one of theirs, covered in "patina" mine sells first, and higher... I buy tools to use. We have two museums in town already.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Nickel plated...Yeah !
would you polish the cast iron pieces so they don't have the mold bumps and/or course grind marks ?

[oldtoolsniper]

I am not sure what is required but I am going to visit a guy who has been restoring the ornate coal stoves for 30 plus years. He did a bunch of work for my brother and does a first rate job of plating and recasting stove parts. I also have to see if it will add enough thickness to interfere with the die.

[Raven_Darkcloud]

Thanks guys, I have it all cleaned up just need to strip the old paint and start the repaint and blue job. I will be powder coating it just need to decide what color.

[oldtoolsniper]

Make sure to plug the die hole. I did not and paint alone was thick enough to prevent the die from seating, a q-tip and acetone cleaned it up. Powder coating would be a whole lot bigger problem to remove.

[snake river marksman]

I wonder if, instead of bluing the parts, you could parkerize them. I know it's not original but it would hold up better than bluing.

[Raven_Darkcloud]

Well the weather is behaving odd. Got cold again so I will wait till a bit more towards summer to pc it. I will use it as is till then. My kids said to go with the Oregon duck's green, So I have to order the powder from prismatic powders. I did some blueing already, and still need a replacement spring. Have you guys just been using springs from hardware store?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

and still need a replacement spring. Have you guys just been using springs from hardware store?

When I designed the heavy duty handle replacement kit, I spent $100 "online" on spring samples to find one that'd work with a heavier handle. I also found one that will work with the original handle. Because, I couldn't find one at a local hardware store or auto parts store that'd work. Send me a PM if you are interested in buying one.

[oldskeetshooter]

Hey guys,

I am new to this forum and boolit casting and sizing. Except for round balls. Anyway, I picked up and old Lyman 45 from Ebay. Paid too much for it, 120 bucks, but it came with 14 dies, 4 of which I need, so I really cant complain. I have refinished the castings, made some new slide rods out of stainless, made new 10x36 knurled screws, and replaced the 1/4x28 die holder set screw with a homemade screw with a flappy handle so you dont need an allen wrench. Reblued all of the parts, except for the slide rods. Since I have a lathe and more time than money, I was going to machine a new pressure nut (piston). I was going to make the new style with the orings. If anyone has the dimensions of the new style pressure nut and o-ring sizes, I sure would appreciate it. Is it aluminum, bronze or steel?Also, the return spring that came on this thing is evidently the wrong one. It is about 1/2" inch in diameter and drags on the castings. I could wind a new spring if I had those dimensions too. Hey, I know, for a new guy I am asking a lot..I know that the parts are only about 20 bucks with shipping. But, What can I say...I'm cheap, and Uhhhh, on a fixed income?..

Thanks,
Bill

[Cane_man]

hey oldskeeter, welcome from another nube... if nobody posts the info then when i get home tonight from slaving in the salt mines i will take the pressure nut out of my 45 and measure for you... one thing i know for sure is that the threads are "opposite"! by that i mean you need to ratchet the shaft counter clockwise for the nut to go down... i don't really know if the threads are opposite or i am just opposite but it was backwards from what i thought!

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

oldskeetshooter, welcome to the best cast boolit website.
I'd love to see photos of your press. I don't think you paid too much since you got all those Dies :)

I don't have a new style pressure nut (steel) that's out of the press, otherwise I could help you out. I actually like the old style "brass ring sleeve" type better. Besides that fact that the o-rings need ocasional replacement, the small ribbon of lube that leaks out of the old style is a good indicator (if it grows large) of too much pressure or too much heat.
Good Luck,
Jon

[oldskeetshooter]

Hey guys,

I really appreciate it. The old piston is ? at best. It has severe scratches and pitting. I was going to try to dress it down until smooth but I am concerned that if I take off .005 then the gap will increase .015 more. I dont know if that would cause too much leakage. The gapped piston is a good design, as it allows air to escape when replacing the lube sticks. I may figure out a way to make a pressure escape valve in the top of the new designed piston to allow air to escape. The threaded rod is 3/8 x20 RH and is in pretty good shape. I dont have a 3/8 by 20 tap so I would have to cut the internal threads, on the piston, with a lathe. The tube, or reservoir, is in great shape. After I boiled the main casting for cleaning, I just hit the tube with some uhhh, shall we say, refrigerant and it came loose by hand. I was dreading that, but it became a simple job. BTW. The threads, are the same as a tail piece for a commercial lavatory drain. Wonder how the tube would look in chrome? The good news is, my old Lee production pot still works after sitting up for 25 years. As we say in the south "I'm rarin' to get started".

Thanks again,
Bill

[Cane_man]

oldskeet:

piston is like a spool, with the 2 o-rings inside of it

piston OD = 1.075
piston height = 0.403
piston ID = 0.3125 (the inside is threaded, so this measurement is the outside of the threads)
distance from OD edge to ID edge looking down on top of the pressure nut = 0.3795
thickness of the spool = 0.075

o-ring OD = 1.14
o-ring height = 0.20 (there are 2 o-rings one on top of another that are sandwiched inside the pressure nut)

looks like the piston material is some type of hardened carbon steel

i know a pic is best but that is what i have for right now... let me know if you need me to clarify anything

[oldskeetshooter]

Cane Man:

I really appreciate the specs. I found a photo of and old and new pressure nut "piston" here:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/eddard49/450pressurenuts.jpg
It looks as if the "lands" are equally spaced and of equal thickness. The o-ring math should be relatively simple. The split in my old piston cup is straight, not like the on in the photo with a tongue and groove. That's another reason why I feel that I should update the piston and not repair my old one. I will try to install some kind of pressure relief "ball and spring vent" on the new piston. I need to kill some time, cant shoot this week, yellow pollen clouds are floating around down here. A few minutes outside and you have yellow concrete setting up in the corners of your eyes...

Thanks again, I really appreciate it.
Bill

[gifford]

Thanks for this sticky. It has been invaluable in getting an old 45 back in operation. I got from a box of reloading stuff at a gun show for 15 bucks, turns out it had a .358 sizer and die in it and it works like gangbusters now.

[Dale in Louisiana]

can this stuff (Potassium nitrate) be re-used ?
Or is it a one use, then dump ?
Dump where ? do I need to find a stump :) lol
Jon

No, you need some sulfur and some charcoal!

dale in Louisiana

[HotLead]

Scored a pair of Lyman 45's at a gun show last weekend. Has anyone ever seen a 45 with a die retaining nut? Here's a photo, plus photos showing the casting number and the outline of the clear sticker that was on it. There was no printing on the sticker when I got it, just the clear base, but at least you can see its shape and size. The four days of Kroil to free things up eventually floated the sticker off as it creeped everywhere.

The die retaining nut was still tight after four days. The photo shows it partially unscrewed. There were two burrs at the top edge of the casting, protruding into the threaded opening for the retaining nut, putting pressure on it, which made it nearly impossible to judge if the nut was started correctly or was going to cross-thread. Don't know how the previoius owner ever coped with it. Took a half-round jeweler's file to the burrs, and now it screws in and out with finger pressure.

82316

[HotLead]

The other Lyman 45 I bought last weekend has a gold decal with black printing, rather than a sticker or label. Hers's a photo of it, and a photo of the casting number. It is on the right side of the casting as you face it. The other one has the casting number on its left side.

82351

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

82316
I am guessing that the die retaining nut was done as a repair by a previous owner. I see some brazing on the iron casting, inbetween the die hole and the original Die setscrew. I can imagine if someone cracked a Iron casting, that they'd consider upgrading the die retention system to what a newer model has. I'd love to see a closeup photo both the casting with the die retention nut removed and the the die retention nut itself.

I'm glad you got the Burrs cleaned up and are able to easily remove that nut.
Good Luck,
Jon

[HotLead]

Photos? Your wish is my pleasure. You can see that I started to dig out the old lube and changed my mind. The old stuff is soft enough that I might go ahead and try it out for some low velocity revolver loads.

82407824088240982410824118240682427

The arrows in the last photo show where the burrs were on the top edge of the hole, that created so much drag on the retaining nut. The biggest was the one on the right.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Thanks for sharing. well whoever did that work, they knew what they were doin' except for the burrs, unless that happened after the fact???

That lube is colored much like the ole tried and true 50-50, Alox-beeswax, which was [and is] made by many vendors. It's a good lube, but can be a little smoky, but may not be noticed unless shooting in a indoor range. Don't worry, it's nothing smoky like BP.

[oddgunner]

Thank god I found this tread. A friend of mine dad found out that I had started casting my own boolits. He brought me all his old boolit casting stuff. In the big old bow was a Lyman 45 (score), the only problem is the lube is so old its hard as a rock. I have some work to do, but I think it will be worth it.

Thanks every one for all the great tips.
As always there is lots to learn here.

[noonanda]

Just wanted to say thanks for making a great thread like this. I just finished cleaning up an old lyman 45 I picked up last week off ebay.

Does anyone know where I could find one of the tops Cap that cover the tube? Thats the only piece I am missing, I also need to get a new pressure nut as mine has the old syle and the brass part has seperated from the pressure nut.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

The first two items on this Page are the closest things available.
The reservoir cover is more of a plug instead of a cap...but will work on the 45.
The pressure nut uses O-rings now instead of a brass sleeve and also works on the 45.
http://www.lymanproducts.com/store/page151.html

[barney67]

Also want to say thanks for all helpful info in this thread. I bought a couple 45's off ebay several months ago, got one up and running last weekend, it was in pretty good shape and just needed disassembly and cleaning.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g270/bbarney67/Forum03/025rr_zps197fe49c.jpg (http://s58.photobucket.com/user/bbarney67/media/Forum03/025rr_zps197fe49c.jpg.html)

Mixed up some Ben's red and it's working great.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g270/bbarney67/Forum03/020rr_zpsbbe1a546.jpg (http://s58.photobucket.com/user/bbarney67/media/Forum03/020rr_zpsbbe1a546.jpg.html)

The second 45 will require a lot more work. I need a thumbscrew if anyone has a source.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

The thumb screws are not really needed on the bottom Bar that mounts to the slides, I have bought hex setscrews at the hardware store, I don't recall what the thread was, just bring one with you. Once you do that, you'll have spares for the depth stop lock and top punch mount.

I don't have a source for New thumbscrews, but I do have a few old ones laying around, besides being 50+ years old, they are tough looking, while the threads may be OK, they have plier marks on the knurling and are probably rusty.

Just an FYI:
I think the one for the depth stop lock had a cavity in the end for some kind of rubber or fiber insert to go against the threads of the depth stop adjustment bolt, I just use a piece of lead shot, cause mostly, the rubber or fiber are disintegrated on the ones I've seen...BUT use something, those threads are very fine and easily destroyed, the depth stop bolt is not available anywhere that I know of, with no similar modifiable swapout...and difficult to make cheaply.
Jon

[barney67]

Didn't have any luck yesterday finding hex screws with pitch that fine at my local hardware store, but I have a couple more in the area I can check. Good point about the depth stop, I'll put some shot in there.

[barney67]

Disassembled, cleaned, blasted, added some cold blue and Chevy engine paint, now my second 45 is ready to go.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g270/bbarney67/Forum03/005rs_zps459f7f4f.jpg (http://s58.photobucket.com/user/bbarney67/media/Forum03/005rs_zps459f7f4f.jpg.html)

[skeettx]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/eddard49/450pressurenuts.jpg

[cephas53]

Thanks to all. Another one rejuvenated.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o21/cephas53/4161b4cc-2c80-4dfc-9352-0fbd64a72a29_zps61a48c75.jpg (http://s116.photobucket.com/user/cephas53/media/4161b4cc-2c80-4dfc-9352-0fbd64a72a29_zps61a48c75.jpg.html)

[JesterGrin_1]

I am getting ready to redo an Old Lyman 45 and wished to ask if I need to purchase a new Pressure Screw if I get a New Pressure Nut?

The Original Pressure nut is a split design and leaks out the top.

And another wild question of which I will ask since so many people like the Lyman 45 and that is what is a good heater to use with the Lyman 45 with Carnauba Red Lube?

[fryboy]

I am getting ready to redo an Old Lyman 45 and wished to ask if I need to purchase a new Pressure Screw if I get a New Pressure Nut?

The Original Pressure nut is a split design and leaks out the top.

And another wild question of which I will ask since so many people like the Lyman 45 and that is what is a good heater to use with the Lyman 45 with Carnauba Red Lube?


sad to say it depends , some of the earliest model 45's used the same pitch of threads as the #1 sizer ( i call these "informally" generation 1 45's ) most have the newer pressure screw pitched threads , no way to honestly tell from here ,hints are newer 45's have a aluminum reservoir cap , a pin ( with cotter keys ) handle pivot ( as opposed to a shouldered bolt ) a spoked cast iron wheel type cap was carried over from the #1
if you have a 450 and your two piece pressure nut fits the thread you're good to go , of note the pressure screws arent too expensive but there is a wee bit of difference on the top shaft ( a lil longer and a thicker shaft at the top that will require modding the cap by drilling the hole larger , 5/16" iirc and easy enough to do ) also of note i have an original #1 with the square drive screw ...some report that the threads arent the same yet i can ( and have ) used a newer o-ring pressure nut ( fit right on ermm i mean screwed right on in just fine [shrugz] ) so chances are good that you do not need a new screw

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I am getting ready to redo an Old Lyman 45 and wished to ask if I need to purchase a new Pressure Screw if I get a New Pressure Nut?

The Original Pressure nut is a split design and leaks out the top.

And another wild question of which I will ask since so many people like the Lyman 45 and that is what is a good heater to use with the Lyman 45 with Carnauba Red Lube?


sad to say it depends , some of the earliest model 45's used the same pitch of threads as the #1 sizer ( i call these "informally" generation 1 45's ) most have the newer pressure screw pitched threads , no way to honestly tell from here ,hints are newer 45's have a aluminum reservoir cap , a pin ( with cotter keys ) handle pivot ( as opposed to a shouldered bolt ) a spoked cast iron wheel type cap was carried over from the #1
if you have a 450 and your two piece pressure nut fits the thread you're good to go , of note the pressure screws arent too expensive but there is a wee bit of difference on the top shaft ( a lil longer and a thicker shaft at the top that will require modding the cap by drilling the hole larger , 5/16" iirc and easy enough to do ) also of note i have an original #1 with the square drive screw ...some report that the threads arent the same yet i can ( and have ) used a newer o-ring pressure nut ( fit right on ermm i mean screwed right on in just fine [shrugz] ) so chances are good that you do not need a new screw

I concur with everything fryboy says...and I will add I have two #1 units with the Square drive pressure screw, threads on those are alike...BUT different than the many 45's I have. The brass sleeve on the pressure nut isn't notched like the brass sleeve on the 45's...the #1 brass sleeve end's are butted together...and tend to leak easier.

I'll add even more, if you are ordering a pressure nut, I'd order a pressure screw as well, it's so cheap compared to the postage and it's good to have a spare laying around.

Now, I always use a heater...even on the warmest days, I use a 200Watt megnetic auto engine heater. It will run constantly, so "I" am the thermostat. I find that once the sizer is at the correct temp, I can shut the heater off and usually stays warm enough til I'm done sizing...unless it's a cold day or I get distracted with another task.

I use to use a thrift store clothes iron with a thermostat, but it's so much larger than this mag engine heater, and gets in the way.

[JesterGrin_1]

Both have Solid Aluminum Reservoir Caps. But one the Leverage Arm attaches to the body with a Cross Pin and the other has a Screw in Pin. And both factory Pressure Screws have 6 Flats for the Chapman Wrench to fit on.

So my list right now is.
( 2) Pressure Nut (with two o-rings)

(4) O-Ring (Each)

( 1) Pressure Screw

[XDMinent45]

When I re-conditioned my 45, I used Brownells Oxpho-Blue cold blue on the lube reservoir, and Rustoleum Glossy Real Orange on the body components and handle.

I liked the Real Orange so much, I stripped the 4500's hammmer-tone finish and re-painted it orange.

How is the Rustoleum Glossy Real Orange holding up?

[XDMinent45]

I just boiled the snot out of my Ideal #45. Most of the orange paint came right off with the lube. I'll wire wheel the remainder, do one more degrease. Then I'll shoot it with hi temp chevy orange head paint, and bake it in the oven.
113331113332

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Looks real good so far !

[XDMinent45]

The man that owned this lube/sizer was a member of our club for a long time, and a top notch Bullseye shooter. He had three lube/sizer's just like this one, a Star and a Saeco (which both sold for ridiculous money) they were all set up for different caliber boolits. Some of his handguns went for unbelievable prices too at an auction they had last week up in Cortland. Actually they made a hefty chunk of change from all the equipment he amassed over the years. What amazed me was these old luber's are still highly usable, upgradable, and affordable. Thanks to your sticky I was able to restore my Ideal #45 to like new condition, and Lyman had all the parts! Big tip, he was using NRA 50/50 in the Lyman's. Judging by how much his target pistols went for, it certainly must have worked.

[XDMinent45]

Ta Da! 400 degrees for 30 minutes in my oven and she be looking all spanking new and ready for another 50 years of lubing/sizing. I bought brand new H and I, top punch, pressure piston, spring, all from Lyman and I was told that by drilling the four base holes I can fit the 450/4500 heat plate to this #45 allowing me to use both types of bullet lubes.
113427113428113429

[Debo]

Wow.... That's purty

[Mark Daiute]

Did ANY of the 45's come with a handle that had a bend in it? I just got a 45 and the handle has roughly, 20° bend in it, with no signs of having been welded/repaired.

I got my first 45 for 5 bucks at a local gun store. I smile every time I use it and I have sized and lubed thousands of boolits with it.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Did ANY of the 45's come with a handle that had a bend in it? I just got a 45 and the handle has roughly, 20° bend in it, with no signs of having been welded/repaired.

I got my first 45 for 5 bucks at a local gun store. I smile every time I use it and I have sized and lubed thousands of boolits with it.
I'd love to see a photo, as I haven't seen a factory 'bent' handle/lever

[Mark Daiute]

I'd love to see a photo, as I haven't seen a factory 'bent' handle/lever

No way that lever can be bent without breaking, right? It's cast, isn't it?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

All my "original" handle/levers are cast iron...I've never bent cast iron, but then again I'm no expert with a torch :veryconfu

[Mark Daiute]

nice website, how nice to be able to post right from my computer without going through photobucket, not that I'm not grateful to photobucket.

113996113992113993113994113995

[Mark Daiute]

couple more views:

113997113998113999

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

That sure is interesting.

[Yodogsandman]

Has anyone tried orange powder coating the 45's?

[gunoil]

New owner, big orange 45 l got from Jon.

thinking bout a heater. Need die/punch .452
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/EFD1BEA1-E65E-4586-BFF9-DAC0AA99372D_zpslzhhglzx.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/putt2012/media/EFD1BEA1-E65E-4586-BFF9-DAC0AA99372D_zpslzhhglzx.jpg.html)
------------------------------
brevity&misspelling rampant

[gunoil]

Some blue lube stick round here, can l drill em and use em in 45?

You can buy universal lyman heater, but u have to drill new holes. Any one have pic or pattern?

[ndnchf]

I've been using a 450 for 20+ years and it has served me well. I've thought about getting another just two have them set up for my two most common sizes. Maybe I missed this, if so I apologize. But what are the pros/cons of a 45 vs a 450? Did Lyman go to the 450 for as a cost saving measure? Does the 45 do everything a 450 will do? I like old equipment and would consider looking for a nice one, I just want to know if I would be losing any capability. I load BPCR primarily. Soft alloys, no gas checks. Thanks Steve

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I've been using a 450 for 20+ years and it has served me well. I've thought about getting another just two have them set up for my two most common sizes. Maybe I missed this, if so I apologize. But what are the pros/cons of a 45 vs a 450? Did Lyman go to the 450 for as a cost saving measure? Does the 45 do everything a 450 will do? I like old equipment and would consider looking for a nice one, I just want to know if I would be losing any capability. I load BPCR primarily. Soft alloys, no gas checks. Thanks Steve
BUY a 45.

The big "PRO" of the 45, is the design to retain better alignment. A real important factor when sizing rifle boolits...not as important for pistol boolits that are destined for short range shooting.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?171726-Off-center-sizing-of-Lyman-4500

The big "CON" is the 45's original linkage and cast iron handle are weak and prone to breakage under abuse. The Ideal #1 lubesizer...a much older design and quite a neat antique to own and use, suffers from weak linkage and handle even more so than the 45.


ALSO: There is a ton of threads on this very subject. If I were you, I'd type "Lyman 45 450" into the google custom search window (above) for lot's more opinions, as mine are biased. I've owned 4 different 450's and sold them all, due to my dislike of them.

[ndnchf]

Thanks Jon. I've been reading up on the 45 for the last hour. I think I could put one to good use. I will start looking for one. Thanks steve

[Sekatoa]

Did ANY of the 45's come with a handle that had a bend in it? I just got a 45 and the handle has roughly, 20° bend in it, with no signs of having been welded/repaired.

I got my first 45 for 5 bucks at a local gun store. I smile every time I use it and I have sized and lubed thousands of boolits with it.

I have one two!. I assumed it was bent at some point, but being cast iron, surprised it didn't break. I began to wonder if I could bend it back, without snapping it, or if came that way originally?

Ah, but seeing your pics, mine is different, right at the wood handle, where the "pin" meets the lever part. The thinnest/ easiest to bend, but also to snap?!

It looks like maybe someone applied to much down pressure, without anything breaking, even the wood handle.

I will get a pic tomorrow.....ish.

[dsbock]

I wish I had found this thread earlier. I picked up an Ideal 45 about a year ago. I figured out how to take it apart and clean it all by my lonesome.

Mine came with the original box and wrench as well.

I'll try to put up some pictures in the next few days.

David

[oldfart1956]

JonB (and all) first and foremost thanks so much for this most excellent information on the Lyman 45. Having a 450 I didn't actually need a 45 until this past weekend when at the Sportsman Yard Sale in Chambersburg I found a 45 for the princely sum of...$5. Yes...$5. It is in remarkably good shape, nothing bubba'd and all the parts in working order. The paint is a bit tattered but none the worse for wear. I dis-assembled the unit as much as I felt needed and boiled then cleaned it all up with mineral spirits. Even came with a .358 die and a top punch! :) This unit has the piston with the brass sleeve on it. Noticed that the piston has 2 pins located 180 degrees apart that secure the brass sleeve and one of the pins is a bit rounded. The sleeve stays put (can't move up due to the piston design) but wondered if the proper repair would be to centerpunch the pin just to make sure the brass sleeve stays in place or just order up a late model piston and O-rings? Also the screw that raises/lowers the piston is threaded almost to the bottom and wondered about installing a sleeve/bushing to prevent the piston from bottoming out? The die, once removed and cleaned has the groove for an o-ring but no o-ring. Did the 45 not use an o-ring on the die? Many thanks in advance for any answers to these questions. Audie...the Oldfart..

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

snipped...
This unit has the piston with the brass sleeve on it. Noticed that the piston has 2 pins located 180 degrees apart that secure the brass sleeve and one of the pins is a bit rounded. The sleeve stays put (can't move up due to the piston design) but wondered if the proper repair would be to centerpunch the pin just to make sure the brass sleeve stays in place or just order up a late model piston and O-rings?
I strongly suggest to NOT modify the pressure nut's pins and it's brass sleeve before you give it a try. Yes the brass sleeve kinda floats on the pressure nut. it's suppose to be like that, I think if you stake it on, you may cause an issue.
Many people have upgraded to the new style pressure nut with Orings and like them, I actually like the old style "brass ring sleeve" type better. Besides that fact that the o-rings need occasional replacement, the small ribbon of lube that leaks out of the old style is a good indicator (if it grows large) of too much pressure or too much heat.


snipped...
Also the screw that raises/lowers the piston is threaded almost to the bottom and wondered about installing a sleeve/bushing to prevent the piston from bottoming out?
Yes, this is how all the older style are. Lyman offers a sleeve, but it sure would be easy to make. If you make one, be sure it can't obstruct the Lube port in the bottom of the reservoir. Another thing I have thought about, is making a slot in the top of the pressure nut, so it could be kept from spinning by using a slotted screwdriver, in one of those rare instances that you have that problem. While I suggest that mod, I have never done it, it seems to always slip my mind when I have one apart :cry:



snipped...
The die, once removed and cleaned has the groove for an o-ring but no o-ring. Did the 45 not use an o-ring on the die?
The old style dies have only one groove, it's for the 45's setscrew. Are you confusing that with an Oring groove? If not, then I suspect your Die is a new style with both a groove for the 45's setscrew and a second groove for an Oring. If so, I'd find an Oring. I believe the new style die is a thou or two smaller and needs the Oring to seal properly.

[oldfart1956]

JonB thanks for the reply. I'll take your advice and stay with the original piston and make the modification you mentioned. (the slot in the top) It worked for 50+ years so why change it. I was thinking for a bushing to prevent the piston from going too far down and getting stuck just getting a proper inside diameter bushing from the hardware, either nylon/plastic/brass or steel, and cutting it about 3/8 to 1/2 inch long and slide it down the screw before installing the piston. Even a short section of pvc would work wouldn't it? Just something for the piston to bottom out on before it hits the end of the threads and jams up. And the die has only 1 groove so it is the proper one and doesn't use the o-ring. Should have known that when I saw the marks from the set screw. Duh. (set screw would gammahooch any o-ring) Again, many thanks! Audie...the Oldfart..

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

snip...
Even a short section of pvc would work wouldn't it?
Yeah, probably, but you don't want the OD to be near the ID of the reservoir tube, or it will block the Lube port. Same goes with a spacer with a larger ID, so the spacer could travel side to side...and maybe block the lube port.

[ndnchf]

Well I took the plunge and purchased a 45. JonB had one available, cleaned and checked out, so the decision was easy. It arrived the other day and I set it up with a 311" die he included. I like to make my own lube and Jon suggested a couple. I'm setting this one up for very mild 32-20 smokless loads for a couple antique rifles. My 450 is set up with black powder lube, so I wanted this one for my low speed 32 smokess bullets. Using tried and true ingredients I mixed up a batch of my Bluebonnet lube:
5oz beeswax
3oz soy wax
2oz synthetic 2cycle oil
1/2tsp lanolin
1 blue crayon

This lube is soft enough to go through the 45 without a heater. It is firm and a little tacky so it sticks well in the grooves. Just right for my purpose.

Thanks JonB!

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Depending on "brand" of synth 2 cycle oil and it's individual "slickness", you may see lube purging flyers with that percentage of 2 cycle oil. If you do, just add a little more beeswax.

FYI: lube purging flyers are where you are getting pretty good groups, but one out of every 3 or 4 or 5 shots is a couple inches out of the group. My first attempt at this recipe was 2/3 wax to 1/3 oil (PAO based Amsoil), that's when I learned of lube purging flyers. I had to back it off to the 11:2 ratio, as in the published recipe on the link I gave you, to eliminate the lube purging flyers. I'm guessing that PAO is slicker than others, so if you are using something else, it's less likely to happen at your percentage.

Now, another thing to add (that I've learned in the last year or so), if adding beeswax makes the lube too stiff for your taste, adding a oil that doesn't have any "slickness modifier" will soften the lube without adding the slickness...Like food grade mineral oil (a laxative available at the drug store). OK, besides being able to flow through a lubesizer, the other advantage of a soft lube, is it's ability to be "flung" off the boolit as it exits the muzzle...a desired effect for accuracy.

[ndnchf]

Jon - I used Craftsman full synthetic 2 cycle oil fram Advance Auto Parts. I'll watch for the lube purging flyers. If I see it happen, i'll reduce the oil a bit. Thanks for the tip.

[tja6435]

147286Just refreshed my Lyman 45 on Friday/Saturday. Got it loaded up with some Carnuba Red for my MP 359-640 I've been slinging lead through.
I let my boy pick the paint color, I reblued the guide rods and the tube with Dicrophan from Brownell's. It takes the bluing much easier/better if you heat the metal to be blued. I used a heat gun, same heat gun I heat the. 45 with when using harder lubes.
I replaced the pressure screw, the pressure nut, new reservoir cap, replaced the old stripped out screws with machine bolts with nuts.
I expcet it to be a long time before doing all that work to it again.

[ndnchf]

As I walked through my shop today, it dawned on me that my old shop press had a family resemblance to my new Lyman 45. Coincidence - maybe. Distant relatives - probably not. Then again, with a little modification it could be used to size artillery projectiles! :bigsmyl2:

[tja6435]

148235Recent refresh. Reblued the reservoir and guide rods while the paint and clear coat were drying. It is super tight and will be used for the softer lube (2500+) so I can leave the other 45 setup with Carnuba Red. The brass pressure nut will be left in this one unless I get too much blow by when it's hot outside.
As a side note, the original Chapman wrench was included, it is much stronger than the Chinese copy lyman sells currently, I'll probably order it a 1/4" gearwrench though and save the Chapman

[fryboy]

Chapman still sells their version and for reasonable too ! Iirc they even have a reversible one and some other cool tools ( I loves me compact double sided reversible Phillips screwdriver - looks just like the Chapman we use on our 45's ,that lil dude has saved me bacon more than a few times ! )

edit to add links
home page
http://chapmanmfg.com/
wrench ( for the unheard of price of $5.75 ermm well + S&H )
http://chapmanmfg.com/products/famous-midget-ratchet-cm-13
"Our customers have told us this "is the ratchet used to feed lube through a Lyman lube and sizer" "

best yet
"Chapman tools are made in Durham, CT from USA materials. We support American made machinery tool and die makers, fabricators, metal finishers, machine part manufacturers and other local service providers. Your support of Chapman MFG in turn supports all the American workers supporting us that we rely on!

American Made Materials

Chapman insert bits are milled from USA tool steel. The ball bearing and spring in every bit are also made in the USA, and the bits are heat treated and finished with black oxide in Connecticut.

Our famous midget ratchet is punched from USA stainless steel and all the internals are also made in USA."


All three of our cases are made in the USA, and one of them is made about an hour away from our shop in CT."

sadly they no longer show my fav screwdriver , i may have to baby it and never ever lend it to some one again :(

[M-Tecs]

Jon

Rebuilding a Lyman 45 for a friend. This post is of great help.

[Outdoors]

I've read this thread a few times, many thanks Jon, for your efforts on this!
I found a 45 in a gunshop a few weeks back for $15, as is. Stopped back and it was still there on Saturday, so I grabbed it. They said if I used a card they would have to charge me tax. No problem :)

All complete and no cracks.
Got the pressure nut out over the weekend, and check the alignment of the rods, all good to go. Spring is even tight. Other than a generous layer of lube and dirt, she seems perfect.

Pat

[Graybeard96]

Now that the die, pressure nut, and pressure screw have been removed, the depth control assembly can be removed...the parts are shown below.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/11removedepthcntlassy.jpg

Now the Lube can be removed. Some folks boil it out, I tried it once, and I failed to wait til everything cooled so the lube would solidify on the top of the water.
So I had a Big mess ! When I removed the hot/warm sizer from the hot/warm water, the hot/warm lube floating on top decided to cling to the sizer like static cling...then trying to wipe off the hot/warm lube off the hot/warm sizer was an incredibly Big chore !
So I haven't tried it again, but since others have been successful, I guess it works.

I use a heatgun, it works well for me. I do this outside, and prop the sizer in a cardboard box to catch all the lube. I'm not trying to save the lube, just get it out and throw it away (or use it for flux).

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/12heatmeltlube.jpg

OK, whatever this lube is... "portions" of it ain't melting !!!! Maybe the lube ingrediants have separated ? But I am skeptical of that. I think someone filled it with a soft black grease (maybe lyman super moly?), but there are deposits of a very hard lube in the bottom of the reservior and in the bottom cast iron piece, obviously plugging it up...and that is probably why there was grease coming out of the top...the last person that tried to use this sizer surely failed to make it work.

So I removed all the soft grease with a screwdriver. Then paper towels wrapped on the screwdriver to get any residue so I could get a better idea of how much of the hard deposits were in there. Well there was plenty. I will try soaking all the parts with hard deposits in mineral spirits once it's all completely disassembled.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/13lubewoulntmelt.jpg

Now the slide rods and spring can be removed and the upper cast iron piece can be removed too.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/14removeslideandspring.jpg

I wasn't originally wasn't going to remove the lube reservior tube from the lower cast iron piece because it is a difficult task and is easy to damage the tube...also the threads are super fine and can easily be crossed were reassembling.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/16removereserviortube.jpg

I put all the parts into the bowl and covered then with mineral spirits. I let it sit for a few hours. The hard deposits softened some, so I picked them out with wooden chop sticks, so I wouldn't scratch things up. It took a while and maybe if I was patient enough to let the parts soak for a day or two, it would have been easier ?

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/17aftersoakingandscrubbing.jpg

Well, I got this far, I might as well remove all the paint and try to repaint it with some Chevy engine paint.

I will remove all the bluing and break out the cold blue solution. I've never got a nice dark blue/black finish like the original finish from cold bluing, but it'll at least be a uniform dark grey and provide some rust protection for the metal.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/18paintremoved.jpg

After completely degreasing all the parts, I used some heavy wheelbearing grease on all the threaded areas and where the die inserts and where the slides slide through. After the paint cured, it was easy to remove the paint from those greased areas. I used birchwood-casey cold blue on all the other parts (except the new spring). I applied it many times, although it looks pretty good in the photos, it's still dark grey "in person".

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/paintedandcoldbluedparts.jpg

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/frontview-1.jpg

I really dislike the original SMALL wooden handle, so I found a chunk of stag horn to replace that...a guy has to personalize a project somehow, right ?

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/antlerhandle.jpg

An easy way to get a solid grip on the Tube for disassemble is to wind a bit electrician Tape around it then fasten a Hose clamp over it and now the Hose clamp provides a surface which you can mar with your Channel Pliers and wont damage and/or mar the Tube. Love your Paint Job !

[MnSpring]

Well, their is one on G.B., item/576689250, it is, 'old/new'.

[Graybeard96]

I thought I would add to this thread, based on Jon's instructions in this post I'm cleaning up, repainting, and repairing four Lyman 45'.
This one is the worst of the lot it's in rough shape. I started with it because I figure if I can get this one cleaned up and working nice the rest should be a breeze.
61004

As Jon stated it is extremely difficult to remove those tubes once you have it stripped-down. I tried a strap wrench and that just slid around the tube. I too had to resort to the bicycle chain wrench.
To prevent crushing I turned a wooden dowel to the inside diameter of the tube.
61005

I wrapped a bit of Masking tape around the Tube then on top fastened a Garden hose Clamp. This setup allowed me to grab the Hoseclamp with the Plier leaving no scratches on the Tube whatsoever.


Cheers.

[M-Tecs]

I wrapped a bit of Masking tape around the Tube then on top fastened a Garden hose Clamp. This setup allowed me to grab the Hoseclamp with the Plier leaving no scratches on the Tube whatsoever.


Cheers.

I like it!!!!!!!!!!!

[fjruple]

Great thread!! I have managed in the space of three months to get three 45s. One was new in the box that was given to me for placing a new rear sight on a rifle. It was never used. The bullet caster that owned it said the 45 was his second one and did not need it. I found another at a yard sale for $10.00 included 6 dies and top punches. That one was used and abused. The bullet lube had hardened and I used the method illustrated in this thread to remove the bullet lube (same black gunk!!) I disassembled the 45 and cleaned off the 20 years of dust and crude. That 45 I use for sizing my rifle bullet. The third 45 was from a bullet caster who broke the bottom off the internal pressure screw and had upgraded to a newer Lub and sizer. I give him $25.00 for that one. I ordered a new Pressure nut and screw and cleaned up the lub and sizer. I set this 45 up for sizing my .45ACP bullets.

I have a very small machine shop and did several mods to the older "H" dies. These are the dies without the groove for the O-ring. These are the dies where the lube squeezes up between the die and the sizer. I threw the older dies in my lathe and cut an O-ring groove in them. Place an O-ring into the groove and no more lube coming up out the sizer. Another mod that I did was modify the Lyman 450/4500 Gas Check seater for the Lyman 45 lube sizer. The Lyman 450/4500 Gas Check seater fits only the smaller threaded sleeves on those lube sizers. I simply milled the slot in the Lyman 450/4500 Gas Check seater for the larger threaded sleeve that are found on the Lyman 45 lube sizer and it fits perfectly!! I have yet to try it out.

When you find these older lube sizers they are a great bargain.

Cheers

--fjruple

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Just a heads up.
I have recovered some of the Photobucket photos from the original few posts ...it's a time consuming process. I fear they will be quite small, but hopefully shows enough detail. I will fix the original posts as time allows.

[am44mag]

Just a heads up.
I have recovered some of the Photobucket photos from the original few posts ...it's a time consuming process. I fear they will be quite small, but hopefully shows enough detail. I will fix the original posts as time allows.

They messed with so much of my stuff on so many different forums too. Your pics look alright, and the guide is great. I'm looking into a 45 myself, so I think it'll be a big help. Thanks! :)

[nhyrum]

I apologize for reviving such a dead thread, but I seem to have run into a bind with my 45, literally.

I've lubed about 1000 bullets, 10th my and 452, since receiving mine, and suddenly, I couldn't get a bullet out(was a 300 grain 452)

At first, I thought the center punch of my die bent, as I had to pound it out(in a gentle-ish, non marring way) I chucked it up in my drill, put some lapping compound on it and gently spun it in the die. That loosened things up.

Anyway, I got it to the point where everything moves, but I can feel some binding. If I put a 40 cal bullet in my 452 sizer, so things move more, but no stress on the press still, it slightly binds at the buttom, sometimes.

But, here's the kicker. As soon as there's ANY sizing being done, I have to pound it out. And it goes in stiff.

I'm thinking either my two guide rods are bent, or there's too much slop, and that's why everything works with no tension, but as soon as any tension occurs, it binds.

Any ideas? I did do a search, but my searching skills may be sub par, so I apologize.

If my guide rods are just bent, will either 5/16 tool Steel rod, threaded, or a but welded on top, or 8ish inch long(mine measured about7 3/4") 5/16 bolts, with a notch cut at the bottom suffice?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

It's tough to deduce your problem from the symptoms you've explained.
You don't mention anything about your lube?
Have you heated up the press?
Have you tried putting oil on the guide rods and lube reservoir exterior?
Is your 452 die new? The center post shouldn't be bent and I wouldn't hone it smaller. I would have suggested to polish the inside of the die.
A Lyman 45 won't bind if the guide rods are too loose, from my experience anyway?
But if you disassemble it, you could roll the guide rods on a flat surface to see if they are bent.

My first guess would be you are sizing too large of a boolit that is too hard.

[nhyrum]

It's tough to deduce your problem from the symptoms you've explained.
You don't mention anything about your lube?
Have you heated up the press?
Have you tried putting oil on the guide rods and lube reservoir exterior?
Is your 452 die new? The center post shouldn't be bent and I wouldn't hone it smaller. I would have suggested to polish the inside of the die.
A Lyman 45 won't bind if the guide rods are too loose, from my experience anyway?
But if you disassemble it, you could roll the guide rods on a flat surface to see if they are bent.

My first guess would be you are sizing too large of a boolit that is too hard.My lube is tac 1. Heating the press doesn't help.

The 452 die isn't new, but I made it through about 250 300 grain Lee 452 gc bullets, water dropped wheel weights before it bound up, on the up stroke, sizing the bullet felt normal.

I do notice, when just running the press, if I put a slight pressure to the right of the handle as I pull, it runs better

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[nhyrum]

Also, if I use my 401 die, it binds up a little as well. That one is new, but the center punch will fall out when I heat it up enough to melt the lube. My 452 die needs persuasion, which it didn't before

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

another thought on binding on the up stroke.
How tight is the screw that holds the die?
If you tightened or re-tightened that screw, near the time you started having trouble, you may have warped your 452 die.
Have you measured your boolits before and after sizing?
Be sure to measure several spots on your sized boolits, to see if they are round ...or not round.
That would also explain your center post binding.

[nhyrum]

another thought on binding on the up stroke.
How tight is the screw that holds the die?
If you tightened or re-tightened that screw, near the time you started having trouble, you may have warped your 452 die.
Have you measured your boolits before and after sizing?
Be sure to measure several spots on your sized boolits, to see if they are round ...or not round.
That would also explain your center post binding.I only lightly tighten the set screw. The 452 die is scrap now anyway, the first bullet that bound up, was so bad that it actually forced the die up with it, gouging out a channel where the set screw was.

But, before that I did notice the die wasn't sizing the whole bullet. A little piece by the bullet seam wouldn't get sized, but I'm more inclined to believe that's a mould issue and not a die issue, since it doesn't matter the orientation of the bullet, it's always on the same spot on the bullet

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[nhyrum]

The press also binds up when I size my 40 cal bullets, which I did buy new, and wasn't in the press when it had issues

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[nhyrum]

I think I found the root of my problem... Bullets drop from the mould at .464, not .452, or thereabouts, like it should. Time to pop off an email to Lee.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[fred2892]

I think I found the root of my problem... Bullets drop from the mould at .464, not .452, or thereabouts, like it should. Time to pop off an email to Lee.

Sent from my SM-G930V using TapatalkThat'll do it. Also after water drop hardening, the longer you wait before sizing, the more effort required.

Sent from my K010 using Tapatalk

[nhyrum]

Yeah, I size right after dropping, within a day. Heat treat and then check and lube

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Well, it sounds like you are learnin' some stuff.
...


The press also binds up when I size my 40 cal bullets, which I did buy new, and wasn't in the press when it had issues

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I think I found the root of my problem... Bullets drop from the mould at .464, not .452, or thereabouts, like it should. Time to pop off an email to Lee.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
If you applied enough pressure to this light duty press (lyman 45), to size some WD-COWW .464 boolits down to .452 ???
Then who knows what damage you might have down to the press?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Yeah, I size right after dropping, within a day. Heat treat and then check and lube

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Why are making such a hard boolit?

[nhyrum]

Why are making such a hard boolit?Bear boolit. And just straight line penetration

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[CeeHoo]

My first post on CastBoolits so please bear with me.

Another No. 45 acquisition here. Got this one from a friend for free. He had never used the press or knew anything about it so no idea of the history. It appears to be in fair condition but it is missing some parts. For what I can tell, at least the depth control assembly and coil spring are not there. The grease pressure wrench is also missing.

Thanks to JonB's excellent instruction I was able to disassembe the pressure nut and screw with little effort. The lube tube appears to be filled with lube something like Lyman Alox. Pressure nut is of the older style.

As No. 45 replacement parts are hard to find where I live I'd like to ask if Lyman #4500 depth control assembly could be used with this press? Original parts would be nicer of course. Is the coil spring a must for proper operation? Is there a way to find one of those?

Thanks for any help.

https://img.aijaa.com/b/00455/14580034.jpg

https://img.aijaa.com/b/00950/14580035.jpg

https://img.aijaa.com/b/00502/14580036.jpg

https://img.aijaa.com/b/00970/14580043.jpg

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

SNIP...

As No. 45 replacement parts are hard to find where I live I'd like to ask if Lyman #4500 depth control assembly could be used with this press? Original parts would be nicer of course. Is the coil spring a must for proper operation? Is there a way to find one of those?

CeeHoo,
welcome to the forum.
I don't know where you'd get parts in the EU for the 45. As you may know, they quit making them in the late 1950s or early 1960s. Most of the threaded parts are a unique thread rate that is unusual or downright rare today, making substitutions nearly impossible without changing the threads. Which leads me to one of your questions, the answer is NO, the 4500 depth control assembly will not work, it's a different thread. The threads of a 4500 is quite coarse compared to the old 45 as you can see in this photo.
221946

The coil spring is not necessary, but it's nice, as it will hold the handle up if you let go of it.

Your die is a different looking, maybe custom made? I don't see any lube holes (ports) in the Die? Maybe it was used for just sizing? like with powder coated boolits.

[CeeHoo]

Jon, thanks for quick reply.

Indeed, the die has no lube holes and is unmarked. It measures roughly .395" (could be .400" in reality) and the interior is polished quite nicely but I don't think it's factory-made. The top punch that came along is RCBS #429.

OK, sounds like finding replacement parts is out of the question. I think the press itself would be worth of saving though as it doesn't seem to have the common faults you mentioned. I certainly wouldn't like to spend 300+€ for a #4500. I suppose a gunsmith could machine the replacement parts if critical measurements were known. Is there any chance to get a close-up or drawing of the parts?

As a side note, the lower body has an extra hole that I have not seen on other No. 45 frames. I don't know its significance but it looks like it has been there for very long time. If it's bubba it must be a vintage one.

https://img.aijaa.com/b/00435/14580122.jpg

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I have no idea of the extra hole ?

222722

[Hamish]

226341

226342

Don't know if you can tell in the pic, bit it's the dreaded crack from over tightening the retention screw.

226343

During the last year and a half I had bought three 45's and put them up on the shelf until I felt well enough to mess with them. Bad idea, I should have checked them out immediately,,,,,,.

First bad sign was a sizing die with a chunk out of the lip of the die.

226344

I believe this one can be saved be drilling and tapping for a 450 sizing die retaining nut if I can find out the tap size/thread pitch.

[skeettx]

Or Brazing

[CeeHoo]

Well, somewhere in the north there's another 45 cycling again. Thanks to Jon for spare parts. I didn't want to strip the original finish so I only disassembled, cleaned and put it back together.

Obviously the sizer needs to be mounted properly but other than that, first results were fine in my standards.

https://img.aijaa.com/b/00037/14645920.jpg

https://img.aijaa.com/b/00911/14645921.jpg

[HDS]

226341

226342

Don't know if you can tell in the pic, bit it's the dreaded crack from over tightening the retention screw.

226343

During the last year and a half I had bought three 45's and put them up on the shelf until I felt well enough to mess with them. Bad idea, I should have checked them out immediately,,,,,,.

First bad sign was a sizing die with a chunk out of the lip of the die.

226344

I believe this one can be saved be drilling and tapping for a 450 sizing die retaining nut if I can find out the tap size/thread pitch.

Someone said brazing and I agree, I'd use a die grinder and make a v groove and fill it with braze, I'd use TIG brazing myself, less heating of the material that way.

[nvreloader]

I just got an older model 45 lube sizer, it was box part job for $20,
full of unknown hard lube, which will be removed and cleaned up,
the only thing missing is the main lube tube.

Does anyone know the outside diameter and thread pitch, of this tube,
or know where to obtain one?

I think, I can machine one, if I can find the dimensions etc.

Thank you, for your time and effort.
Don

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

SNIP...

Does anyone know the outside diameter and thread pitch, of this tube,
or know where to obtain one?
I think, I can machine one, if I can find the dimensions etc.
Sourcing new or used parts is almost impossible since the Lyman 45 hasn't been manufactured in over 50 years.
The Reservoir tube for the Lyman 45 is a thin/fragile tube and since it isn't a common practice to remove the tube, a 50 year old threaded connection can be real tight, so it is easily damaged if precautions aren't taken when removing, which is probably why it wasn't in your box?

With all that said, I measured an old tube for you.
Disclaimer: I am not a machinist and did the best I could with these measurements.

Length = 4.640"
OD = 1.242"
ID = 1.125"
metal thickness ≈ 0.055"
Length of threading on tube = 0.200"
I counted about 3 threads in 0.125" length, which is "about" 24 TPI

[nvreloader]

JonB

Thank you for that info,

The O/S dia of the lube Reservoir tube on my press measured is 1.242/3" and the same measurement inside of the top cap.

Do you have a SWAG on how tight the dia should be for smooth function,
would minus 1- 2 thousands clearance, be enough?
I don't know how much the lube tube play with the accuracy when sizing etc.

I plan on using this press for 22 cal slugs/pellets, after I make the sizing die holder to fit the base die hole,
using NOE sizing dies etc.

The casting number on this 45 is D or O (hard to read) 2, it has a solid cap with the long thread lube screw,
which hand pushed out of the base with no problems, the threads appear to be very good shape

The way you check the parts for any play/wobble, I followed, this press has no play or wobbles/slack,
everything is tight and it operated very smoothly, it has a 429 base die with inside pin, but no upper pin.

I'll figure out how the get the bottom die out, without damaging anything,
after I use my heat gun to remove the old lube etc.

From what I can see at this time, there does not appear to be any threads inside the bottom part,
but there is so much lube, I can't be sure.

All the thumb screw are like OEM issued, not chewed up etc, nor on any other parts,
there very light rust marks on the rods, there is a little play/slop in the main handle linkage etc.

The sticker on the back is clear colored with very faint black lettering.

Tia,
Don

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Don,
Here are some answers to your questions.


Do you have a SWAG on how tight the dia should be for smooth function,
would minus 1- 2 thousands clearance, be enough?
I don't know how much the lube tube play with the accuracy when sizing etc.
I don't have a numerical answer, if I were to machine one, I would machine it fit in the upper cast iron piece, no slop, but it should slide easily. Yes accuracy/alignment is part of the function of the Tube combined with the slide guide rods.



The way you check the parts for any play/wobble, I followed, this press has no play or wobbles/slack,
everything is tight and it operated very smoothly
I thought you were missing the Tube, I don't think I could get a real 'feel' for it's operation (lack of wobbles/slack) without the Tube?



I'll figure out how the get the bottom die out
You should be able to easily lift it with the handle once Lube is heated/removed...or if un-assembled, just push from the bottom.


From what I can see at this time, there does not appear to be any threads inside the bottom part,
but there is so much lube, I can't be sure.
The threads are very fine...I bet they are still there, coated with hard lube. Although, if the Reservoir Tube was broken off at the beginning of the threads, maybe that threaded part of the tube is inside the lower cast Iron piece?



there is a little play/slop in the main handle linkage etc.
That is very typical, even if it had little use, and luckily it is of no consequence...I keep mine well lubed.

Good Luck,
Jon

[nvreloader]

Thanks Jon

Yes I am missing the tube, even with that missing,
I can feel NO slack/play between the top and bottom main parts, when twisting these parts side to side etc.

I found some DOM steel tubing, that is thick walled and the O/S is 1.250" diameter .095" wall thickness x 12" long for less than $20,
I'll have to make/turn the inside cup to fit and polish down the tube to fit the OEM top part etc,
this tubing will have right around a 1.055-0.60 inside diameter....for the inside lube cup.

I just finished getting all the old lube out, looks like Black tar, Yucky stuff,
removed the top from the bottom parts, and YES there are threads there, very fine,
I'll check the thread size with a thread gage and see if there is a tap/die set for the right size.

The sizer die pushed right out with the help of a nylon rod, after I got the old lube/casting hot enough,
it is a .429 and the inside rod is slightly cupped on one end and rounded on the other.

The only part that looks questionable is the linkage rod for the top part, that connects to the bottom part,
it has a slight "Z" shaped bend, is this normal?

The top cap is not threaded, I believe that there is another part missing, that sits on top of the lube,
and when you might to squeeze the lube down to compress it etc.

Is there a diagram/parts list for a 45 lube sizer?

Tia,
Don

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Don,
here are some more answers.


The only part that looks questionable is the linkage rod for the top part, that connects to the bottom part,
it has a slight "Z" shaped bend, is this normal?
Yes, they have a bend at each end.



The top cap is not threaded
yes, that is correct.



I believe that there is another part missing, that sits on top of the lube,
and when you might to squeeze the lube down to compress it etc.
Yes, it's called the Pressure nut



Is there a diagram/parts list for a 45 lube sizer?
Not really, other than the Manual I gave you a link to.
Also, the photo's in the beginning of this thread should give you an idea of what they look like, to compare to what you have.

[nvreloader]

Jon

I forgot to say "Thank you" for this post, along with most of the photo's, it has been a GREAT help,

Here is some info that may help others along this path,
These are to measurements I have on this Model 45 lube sizer,

Lube screw is 3/8" x 20 tpi and has a 6 sided hex top that is/fits a 1/4" hex wrench/screw driver,
Thumb screws (all) are 3/16" x 36 tpi,
Adjust screw (on the bottom) is 13/32" x 30 tpi, (this the closest to standard tap sizes),
Spring screws (both) are 8 x 40 tpi, (common scope base size),
The cap on this sizer has a solid alum cap, .285 hole (not threaded) and 1.245/6" in diameter.

I will post tomorrow when I have the rest of the OEM parts off and cleaned up.

Ps, I have not found the parts manual, so far, re reading all info for the third time, on pg#3.

Thank you,

Tia,
Don

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

yesterday, I sent this link (manual) to you in a private message, did you see that?
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?34525-manual-for-a-Lyman-45&p=2670223&viewfull=1#post2670223

[nvreloader]

Hi Jon

Thank you for that info, I just read my pm, I did not get any alert that I had a pm.
I have replied to your pm.

Thank you,
Don

[nvreloader]

Jon B rates 5 stars for all the help he provided.

Thank you, Jon

Don

[woodbutcher]

[smilie=s: Hi JonB.Great thread.Thank you for posting this info.Still have the Chapman wrench from the 450 that I used to have( from the mid to late 60`s.).Still works a treat too.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[higgins]

Last summer I bought what I thought was a box of parts from a broken 45 at an estate auction. I had the intention of having spare parts on hand, but when I got it home I realized all the parts were there-even the wrench; it had just been partially disassembled to fit in a box. I got the old lube out with hot water on the Coleman stove and it's ready to go. Cost was $4.00.

[Dieter]

Good morning and Happy Easter!
After years of reloading (pure enjoyment) and my dads close friend who is a member on here telling me I should seriously consider boolit casting, I finally made the plunge. I always figured, need to learn to walk before you can run approach. With his tutoring, I found a 45, it looks to be in excellent condition, paint and bluing look great and it has the dogbone wrench. I’m pretty excited and since Im just starting down this rabbit hole, I’ll keep things simple.

This thread has been a great help with the wealth of knowledge in here, thank you. Lots of ingenuity with the fab work. I do have a question if anyone cares to explain it to a new guy. A gas check tool isn’t needed? Is there a specific die that accomplishes the seating/crimping of said gas checks. Per diameter? It was briefly described a few pages back. Sorry, just trying to get a clear idea how it’s accomplished. Thanks!

[fred2892]

No you don’t need a gas check tool. The mere act of sizing and lubing a bullet will seat and crimp the gas check at the same time.

And welcome to the board.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Dieter]

Thanks for the info Fred!

[Dieter]

My 45 arrived today, it’s in pretty good shape and still has the box. It doesn’t appear to have been abused much at all. Guide rods are tight. However, it looks like a boolit it lodged in the installed die?! Bought off eBay.
http://i66.tinypic.com/2a5k940.jpg
http://i67.tinypic.com/21cxu1s.jpg
http://i66.tinypic.com/ngaxbp.jpg

The pressure nut was spinning of course. I had already made plans to clean it up, get all the old gunk out and start anew. I did try to use Jon’s advice and freeze the sizer in attempt to lock it up to get the pressure nut out. Didn’t work, still spun.

I decided to hit the backside of the sizer with blow drier to warm up any lube and try to refreeze. It got warm enough to change the tolerances (tightened) the pressure nut came right out. No need to freeze again. It didn’t marr anything on the way out.

Is the upgrade/o-ring design still available?
http://i64.tinypic.com/mh69tv.jpg

Pretty nasty stuff...
http://i66.tinypic.com/vyxgyw.jpg

I hit the backside of the sizer with a little more heat and ker-ploop it all slid out in one loaf. I didn’t mess with it prior, just let heat and gravity take over.
http://i64.tinypic.com/2tlp1.jpg

With the heat-cycling, I put some Kroil at the base of the lube canister. I’m going to let it soak till tomorrow night. Most everything else is soaking in mineral spirits. Going to take my time.

Anyone know what this stands for? Date of manufacture? Revision? Lot? Just curious.
http://i68.tinypic.com/21o2fxd.jpg

A big thanks to this thread, very helpful!!

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I have never found any info on the markings cast into the 45.

The Oring style nut that Lyman uses on the 4500 will fit on the 45.

I actually prefer the old brass sleeve style nut, they act like an indicator of over pressure or over heat, as they will leak quite a bit in those conditions, but if you keep it at the correct pressure and temperature, they will not leak or maybe leak a tiny ribbon of lube. Also there is no Orings to replace, they get pinched easily when adding more lube.

[Dieter]

I have never found any info on the markings cast into the 45.

The Oring style nut that Lyman uses on the 4500 will fit on the 45.

I actually prefer the old brass sleeve style nut, they act like an indicator of over pressure or over heat, as they will leak quite a bit in those conditions, but if you keep it at the correct pressure and temperature, they will not leak or maybe leak a tiny ribbon of lube. Also there is no Orings to replace, they get pinched easily when adding more lube.
From the man himself, thank you Jon! I am in the process of cleaning mine up, no indications of scoring/marring...ect. There is some green oxidation from sitting. That will come off after soaking I'd imagine. I did order the new style stuff just to have on hand for rainy day scenario's. I am also thinking of fabbing a handle like you did a bit later. Thanks for the work you did in this thread.

Lyman upgrade #'s
Pressure Nut w/O-Rings: 2990708
Spare O-Ring's: 2990689
Pressure Screw, be advised, I was told its a bit longer but will work: 2990559
Nylon Piston Collar Stop (keeps pressure nut from bottoming out): 2745820
$18 shipped.

I did ask them about the numbers stamped in casting body near die. I was told that's a date of manufacture code. He didn't know how to decipher it.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

The Handle link has two slight bends (photo shown with a straight steel shaft to highlight the bends in the link). The bends are offset to compensate for the design.
240513

[Dieter]

To share the information, Jon and I were discussing the handle link and possible defects. Mine had high-metal on the ends of the links. However, the clevis for the handle and the one on the base of the unit, didn’t display any signs of displaced metal or smearing from interference. Also, the link is fully coated. That ushered in the notion that the high metal I was seeing, was not mushroomed over, but casting burrs or booger’s that were not cleaned up during the manufacturing process. See pics, in some pics I had already started to dress them with a Swiss file.
http://i63.tinypic.com/k530ao.png
http://i64.tinypic.com/2i0dudt.jpg
http://i67.tinypic.com/2evufxl.jpg

These shouldn’t inhibit use in anyway. The only possible issue, an eyesore.

As Jon stated, there is a bend in the link, it’s supposed to be there. I had no idea and was going to cold work it straight, glad I didn’t..
http://i67.tinypic.com/2ns8evq.jpg

[smilin jack]

Got my old 450 at an estate sale about 1990. Been using it all along with a little lube always leaking out base O-ring.
Friend gave me a coffee can of Hard red lube and it still blew the O-ring using a heater set to 110*F.
Dreamed up an idea to fix it. New O-ring and aluminum plate to hold base plug in place.
Added 2 bolts at front to keep things level.

[metricmonkeywrench]

So I was able to steal away a bit of time to tackle the teardown of the newly acquired 45 in between bouts of yardwork (to cool off of course) this weekend. A heatgun melted out the remaining lube into my salvaged lube collection (posted elsewhere)

Unlike my first one this sizer, though complete, is in rough shape and I wanted to do a complete teardown (except the reservoir) rather than a solvent bath cleanup. Everything was coming apart just fine (including both spring screws) until I got to the lower cross brace where both screws were stuck pretty good. I liberally soaked them down with PB Blaster and used my battery nut pliers (sort of a small pipe wrench) and the first popped loose and came right out with no issues. The second one remained stuck tight in place. Repeated heat soak and penetrant oil cycles had no effect. Rather than walk away and let it soak overnight I tried one more (sometimes successful) trick of rapping the screw with a hammer (4oz) to shock it loose. Ether I twisted a bit too much on the previous attempts or tapped it a little offset after the third rap and turn attempt the top of the thumbscrew popped off while tapping away.

Since it was now “broke” I pulled out the trusty needle nose vice grips and promptly snapped off the remaining stub of the remaining screw on the first twist flush with the cross brace .. Definitely not my day.

I’m now left with the two choices- leave it as is and pretend it’s a punch pin and clean around it or try and drill it out and hopefully not damage the guide rod too much.

242216

[Dieter]

That’s a tough one. It might be worth it to really spray it good with penetrating oil/kroil. I know you’ve already done this. Let it sit a bit longer. Then, if you can find an extractor/easy-out small enough, that might be worthy a shot. A word of advice, don’t break the easy-out off...speaking from experience.

[metricmonkeywrench]

Well i surrendered, i was able to drill thru and free the rod by shearing off the end of the thumbscrew but it remains hopelessly stuck. Each attempt at heating and soaking was to no avail thumbscrew threads remain hopelessly stuck. The easy out would not grab at all. I finally reached the point where i was into the threads of the cross brace and apparently the tap for these are not on the shelf at the local home stores (i even struck out on Amazon) and are only available from places like Midway. i pondered over-drilling the holes and re-tapping and using a standard setscrew but a quick note to JonB has a replacement cross brace and thumbscrew on the way to keep it stock.

Amazingly enough the reservoir just screwed right out, no pipe wrenches special mandrels and so on, just bare hands. everything went into a solvent bath which ate off the remaining orange paint. so now im on to prime/paint and a learning experience on doing cold blue.

Heres some pix of the progress:

242899242900

[metricmonkeywrench]

Another one saved thanks to this guide and parts from JB and the H&I dies from George. Seeing it next to my “older” one which was left original I guess Krylon Orange is a little too bright but gets the job done. Here’s a couple of additional notes for those collecting tools/materials that I haven’t found in the thread:

The guide rods/nuts are threaded 1/4-28
Birchwood Casey cold blue works well here and covers a lot of age staining improving the looks.
I have a box full of cap plugs that made blocking off the no paint areas easier.
Definitely get the proper taps and chase the threads in the spring screws and the thumbscrew holes after rust abatement and painting, the top spring screw is the worst to clean up as it is a blind hole.
There are 3 different length thumbscrews, the shorter ones are for the crossbrace, the next longer is for the top punch and the last mentioned previously has a fiber or wood insert for the Depth stop.
The 1/4 external snap rings for the link pin were pretty easy to find at the local hardware store
The 5/16 external snap ring for the handle was a bit tougher, finally found one to fit in a buddy’s Horrible Freight set. Not like the original but works for now. I’ll be looking but don’t really want to buy a hundred to get the one I need.
It took two new sticks of Lyman alox to refill the system to get restarted, probably another half stick would have filled it up.
For both units I really need to replace the springs, I’ll find something locally, they don’t need much, maybe a second internal spring just as an extra bump to keep the handle up.
When I went to set the die the 3/4 in screws I used promptly ripped out of the pine block. 1 1/4 long screws and an oak base corrected that issue (I clamp all tools mounted on blocks except for the press.

It’s maiden voyage was to lube up 100 or so .38 bullets with the alox.

243917

[bema]

Hello,
I own a 450 lube sizer and know one could change the "duo" handle in a "single" handle like the newer ones Lyman sells today. Anybody knows where to find a replacement kit?
Thanks.

[Mark Daiute]

I think it is fair to say tht collect 45's. I have 8 or 9 of them. It finaly happened, I have a 45 with the crack at the set-screw. Is it done? Has anyone repaired this, brought a 45 back from this?

Mark

[DonMountain]

I have a 45 recently purchased at a farm sale, and I dismantled it to clean out all the old lube. Does anybody have recommendations on cleaning the entire thing to prevent damaging the original paint? After reading this entire guide, it appears that everyone is either boiling them in water or soaking them with mineral spirits. Or is there something else that will melt out all the original lube without damaging the orange paint or the nice bluing on the cylinder? Gasoline? (which I usually use for old tractor parts.)

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

In the third post, I say I use a Heatgun to remove the old lube, if you are watchful and careful, you won't damage the paint. Once all the lube melted out, I clean up the residue with MS, while the chassis is still warm, using a skewer & cotton patches, pipe cleaner brushes work too.

[DonMountain]

Thanks JonB for your recommendations. I have the 45 looking good as new now, empty of lube, all greased up and back together. One more question, I am missing one of the clips that hold the lever arm pivot pin in place. On one end is a groove that has a snap ring in place. On the other end there is a hole drilled through it that may have had a cotter pin or something else through it. Does anybody know what came from the factory in that hole?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

SNIP...

One more question, I am missing one of the clips that hold the lever arm pivot pin in place. On one end is a groove that has a snap ring in place. On the other end there is a hole drilled through it that may have had a cotter pin or something else through it. Does anybody know what came from the factory in that hole?
That changed over the years, but if there was a hole, then it got a cotter pin.

[metalman21]

I was given a no. 45 lube sizer in pretty decent shape. Melted to old lube out of it with a inferred lamp, then took it apart to toughly clean it out the bullet lube. The threads on the pressure screw (?) were a little messed up but easy fix with a 60 degree file.
So it is all back together with a new .356 die and 311 top punch for cast 9mm's.
Big questions: 1 I'm not sure I have the knockout rod (J?) install correctly, I think I saw it i photos both ways: flat pad up and pad down?
2 How to adjust the threaded sleeve that the rod runs through?
I will try to attach photos.
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[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Big questions:
1 I'm not sure I have the knockout rod (J?) install correctly, I think I saw it i photos both ways: flat pad up and pad down?
2 How to adjust the threaded sleeve that the rod runs through?

1, you have it wrong, the large flat head should be on top, pushing on the "I" portion (inner pin) of the Die. When the boolit is pushed down, the large flat head contacts the threaded sleeve (depth stop) and that's how to set the depth. Also, the large flat head should contact the die body when pushing the boolit back out of the die body and act as a stop.

2, The threaded sleeve can go either way. I recently found out that it needs to be the way you have it, if you want to use the Lyman gas check seater insert...which I previously didn't know that was even possible...I had thought it only worked on the 450 and the 4500.

[metalman21]

Thanks for the response, I flipped it over.

[Drydock]

What a wonderful thread. I now have an orange Chapman ratchet for my otherwise intact and well preserved 45. (replacing an ancient cold water tap handle) Observation: mine has the older skeletal tube cap, and I much prefer it, easy to see how far down the lube piston is.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I also love the cast iron "older skeletal tube cap", mostly because of the looks.

[clarksvillejoe]

Ratchet handle can be bought at Harbor Freight for about $5, works like a champ.

[Whole Bunches]

From an estate, I got an old Lyman 45. (Also got at no cost a .318" bullet sizing die and 4 boxes of .318" J bullets, and as soon as I have enough posts, I'll post to give that stuff to someone that has an old .318" 8mm rifle.) Took the 45 apart and today was cleaning out ancient dried lube. Looks pretty good to me; under the gunk, it's a nice orange color. However 1 part has me puzzled.

I've looked at photos and videos, and none of them show this part close-up enough for me to determine for sure if mine is broken, and thus I'd appreciate anyone with knowledge that could reply. The brass ring that's part of the pressure nut assembly has a "crack" in it. Don't know if it's designed as such or is really cracked. There was an extra used pressure nut assembly with it, and it has a "crack" in the identical place. I'm kinda thinking it's simply how it's designed. Here's a photo. Thank you for your help.

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[Whole Bunches]

Never mind. I found the answer. The split in the brass ring is as designed. I can use as-is and don’t apply too much pressure, help seal it with part of a plastic baggie, or buy updated pressure assembly from Lyman. Search feature comes through again!

[skeettx]

Well done, well done
Enjoy the sizer :)
Mike

[Whole Bunches]

Well, a thin ribbon of lube escapes where the ring gap is. No big deal so far. Just pick it up and put it in my lube melting container. Plastic bag tip didn’t stay in place.

[Slahp]

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I want to thank everyone for the posts, it helped me a lot in rebuilding my Lyman 45. It had a stuck pressure nut, broken handle

and full of hardened lube the posts made it easy to rebuild.

[metricmonkeywrench]

um Slahp… the T shaped rod is supposed to go thru the bottom hollow tube (depth adjustment) T part up so it can be pushed up by the bottom cross brace to push the center die rod (called part "I" of the H&I die) to push out the sized and lubed bullet. Where you have it now is where the top punch is supposed to go.

Otherwise great restoration

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Slahp,
welcome to the forum.
Looks like you have a couple Modifications on that one.

[Slahp]

Thanks for the advice. I had put it back together the way I had received it but didn't quite understand how it would work that way.

Of course the H&I die hasn't came in yet.

[Drydock]

What is that with the die retention screw? Looks like a chunk of metal missing?

[metricmonkeywrench]

What is that with the die retention screw? Looks like a chunk of metal missing?

Actually it looks more like the factory winged screw that held my bumper jack lug wrench to the trunk in my old 69 Dodge...

[Jim22]

I just restored one myself. A heat gun helped get rid of the old lube. Got it for $40 and for another ten got a heat plate in the box. The holes on the heat plate didn't match up with the holes in the sizer and they were drilled 1/4" while the heater was threaded for 5/16". Rather than risk drilling the heater I re-drilled the holes in the sizer. Worked fine.

[Slahp]

Its a big wing screw that came it. The threads are worn on the end and was brazed, I might have to Helicoil it depending on if it will stay tight.

[Drydock]

No, just atop the screw hole, looks like a chunk of meta missing, hopefully not a crack?

[Slahp]

Its been brazed, I cant see any crack. I cleaned it down to bare metal and cant see a crack. Looks funny in the picture.

I wont know until I try it.

[adirondak5]

Ratchet handle can be bought at Harbor Freight for about $5, works like a champ.

The original Chapman Midget Ratchet is still available , still made in USA , about $7

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[adirondak5]

I picked up a Lyman 45 a while back . Was going to take it apart and clean it up , this thread kept me on track . Thanks all .
I didn't repaint , just took apart and cleaned all the old grease/lube off of it and put it back together . It will be earning its keep shortly .

https://i.imgur.com/f403eh5.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/Kh5NW5q.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/bi25Gh1.jpg?1

[winshooter]

Now if someone will tackle a Saeco Lubesizer in the same detail I’ll be ready to get mine back in shape. Looks like all the information should apply though. Does anyone know if the dies are interchangeable between the Lyman and Saeco Lubesizer?
Thanks.

[Rayant]

JonB in Glencoe not to take any thunder away from you , this thread is great but do you know anyone who rebuilds #45's and then resells them?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

JonB in Glencoe not to take any thunder away from you , this thread is great but do you know anyone who rebuilds #45's and then resells them?

Nope.
They use to show up in S&S on occasion, but now it's a rarity.

[MSUICEMAN]

Bought one, but is missing at least the pivot hardware (assuming bolt and nut?) For the handle to body. Anyone know a workaround, as I doubt originals are available anywhere. Looks like .030 outside diameter, 1.16" length from outside handle to outside mounting tab.

Haven't gona through it all yet to see if anything else is missing or broken

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Pivot hardware varied in different years of production. Some are 5/16" pin, some are 1/4 shoulder bolt...and you might stumble across some "modified" units, as that is a commonly lost part.

PM sent to MSUICEMAN

[MSUICEMAN]

Thanks Jon, think its all there other than that pivot pin.... it was part of a deal i couldn't refuse (20 for the turret press, powder drop missing the tube, trimmer, the lubesizer, and not pictured 10lbs of soft lead in .58 miniball hollow base).
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Edit: sorry for the mess on my bench, working on some presses and switching between shotshell and metallic (needed to load up some waterfowl shells).