Has anyone applied Cerakote?

[jmsj]

Hey Guys,
I am needing to apply a durable finish to some grips that I made out of aluminum and I have been thinking of refinishing a frame that I finished in Brownell's Teflon/moly epoxy coating.
I have heard and read some good things about Cerakote. I was wondering if anyone here has applied this finish?
Thanks, jmsj

[Nobade]

I spray Cerakote almost every day. What would you like to know about it?

[jmsj]

Nobade,
Thanks for the relply. I was wondering how hard it is to apply? I have a full size HVLP gun but would it be better to get a small airbrush, like one of the Paasche set ups?
I am wanting a color that is similar to black parkerizing, which color would you reccomend? The Black graphite color looks good but it does look a little shiny.
The Brownell's Teflon/Moly oven cure epoxy I have been using works well but I would like to find something that wears better. The Teflon/ moly product has not chipped or peeled but I have seen some wear through in areas but it is far superior to bluing. I apply a flat finish but do get some "shining" or wear through in areas of contact. Areas like holster wear or where someone has been shoving a rifle between th seats in a pick up.
Thanks, jmsj

[Nobade]

You can spray it with an airbrush or regular gun. I mostly use a cheap HVLP touchup gun for complete rifles, but if I need to do a small part I'll use the airbrush.

You need to strain it through a 100 mesh screen before spraying to get the boogers out.

The sheen can be controlled, to an extent, by how much curing agent you add. Graphite Black is probably the color you want, run it at the minimum recommended amount of cure (1:25 by volume) and it will be fairly dull and very black. Add more cure and it gets shinier.

Cerakote will wear quite well, but can be rubbed down eventually. It rubs to shiny places on rifle bolts, and will show wear on the edges of handguns that go in and out of holsters a lot. But it is way tougher than bluing or Gun Kote.

It does not flash after you spray it. After an hour you can VERY gently touch the part, but it is still like soft wax. I hang everything from wires and after spraying it hang them in the oven to cure. The slightest touch after the part is sprayed will leave a mark. It cures at 275 deg. F for two hours. Less time will appear to have cured it, but it can be washed off with bore cleaner sometimes. It really needs some time to bake.

You will want to get a small graduated cylinder, preferably glass, to measure it and mix the cure in. I find a cork or cap plug works well to stopper the cylinder and allow me to give it a good shake to mix it together. You want to wear a good mask, it's not too bad for the skin but terrible for the lungs. Also keep it in a refrigerator. It will keep for about 2 years there but in the open it gets really thick and mud like in about 6 mos. It will make your food taste like epoxy so keep it in its own 'fridge and not the one with food in it.

That's all I can think of now, if you have any other questions just give a shout.

[jmsj]

Thanks Nobade,
I think that will get me started
jmsj