My Ruger SP 101 returns home

[Dale53]

I have mentioned here a couple of times that my "new" Ruger SP101 (4" barrel) .32 H&R Mag has been at my friendly pistolsmith's shop for some time. I really like this revolver but it ships with a rear sight that is only adjustable for windage.

I had a blank Weaver Rail milled to fit and had the revolver drilled and tapped for this. My smith actually made a short base and a long base so I had a choice when I was deciding what dot, scope, or reflex sight.

My preference is probably going to be something like the Burris Fastfire reflex sight due to its small size.

In the meantime, I had a 30mm red dot that I mounted on the revolver just to shoot it. Well, it looks kind of out of proportion with that rather large Red Dot sight but it handles and shoots really well. The first two 25 yard targets I shot was a 97x100 and a 99x100 (standing two handed). I really ended up with a smile on my face. The SP101 seems to be an excellent match for the .32 H&R cartridge. It is "hell for strong" and very compact and light weight.

I expect to be shooting this for a long time. It is interesting that I can shoot this revolver just as well as I can my fine S&W Model 16-4/ 6"(the 16-4 has a scope on it and the SP101 presently has a Red Dot).

Looking forward to the coming summer (It was an indicated 91 here yesterday so maybe I can suggest that "summer has arrived":mrgreen:.

This coming hunting season should see the SP101 on my hip while I hunt for sitting bunny wabbits.

Dale53

[BigSlick]

Congrats Dale !!

I know you've been waiting a while to get it back.

Mine is finally going to ship early next week. Also a 4" SP101 in 32 H&R. I selected this gun because I like the cartridge and the J frame airweight ain't the gun to work up loads with. You and Deputy Al, clued me in about the SP101, and I found one NIB and jumped on it.

I had a good action job, all new Wolfe springs, drilled the front sight for easy swap to different height sights, throats done at .3135, and cylinder end shake taken out. I've already got the Hogue grip for it, and about 300 jwords loaded to get the barrel ready for cast. I've got ~ 3/4 can full of 98gr RN loaded with H4227 and lubed with Lar's Red all ready to go too.

It's been gone over three months and I have to tell ya, I'm jonesin to get it to the range. Tired of lookin at pictures, reading the manual and dreaming. It's time to fish or cut bait.

I would really like to see a few pics of the rail work you had done. I've got a Millett red dot I would love to shoot on this gun. It's lightweight, silver (to match the guns finish) and I've shot it and another I have quite a bit and can't imagine how they could improve it. For ~ $70 it awful hard to beat. 1" tube, 3mm dot, adjustable and 10 brightness levels, the batteries last almost forever. I put a rimfire in the safe one time and forgot to turn off the dot. A month later, it was still good to go.

http://www.millettsights.com/images/2007/MILLETT_CAT_p8.PDF

Can you still use the sights that came on the gun, or did the rail replace them ?

I'm not sure how the whole swapping the front sight thing is going to work. I really like the red dot and may just have to get mine done up to handle one too.

Post a few dozen pics when you get time ;)

'Slick
________
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[Dale53]

BigSlick;
I'm leaving for the weekend (Single Shot Match at Etna Green, IN for ASSRA) but I'll be back Sunday evening. I'll try to get some photos up after I return.

I will tell you this, I am a truly happy camper. My pistolsmith did a FINE job and I especially am grateful that he made TWO rails.

The sights were left "as is" but cannot be used when the rail is in place. That troubles me "not at all" as this one will be used ONLY with a Red Dot.

Dale53

[BigSlick]

Hey Dale,

Not meaning to prod you or anything, but the more I think about a red dot on this thing the more I like the idea of it.

If you get a chance, can you fill us out on some of the details of your rig ?

Thanks

'Slick
________
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[Dale53]

Slick;
I am a bit reluctant to show anyone my "Red Dot SP101" with that large 30mm dot sight installed (it recalls something similar to the old saying, "the tail wagging the dog". However, I guess I'll just have to "tough it out" and share.

I'll have a picture up in a few minutes.

Dale53

[Dale53]

Big Slick;
Here are the photos.

#3 will show the base installed on the revolver.

#2 Should show you how the bottom of the scope base has to be milled for the Ruger
two level top strap

#1 Shows the rather large Red Dot as used.

When I first put this 30 mm Red Dot on the revolver, I was a bit put off by its large size. However, I must admit the more I use it the less it's size seems to matter.

You can click on each picture to get a somewhat larger image.

Dale53

[monadnock#5]

That's a nice looking setup. It does what you want it to do, no further justification needed. I like bitone contrasts, blued with stainless works for me.

What make grips are those? I have a .357 SP101 that that thumps my middle finger joint severely. Your grips look like a sure cure for that problem.

Ken

[Dale53]

monadnock#5;
Those grips are by "Uncle Mike". They do work well although the .32 H&R does not produce much recoil. However, the .357 Mag, DOES! I have not shot the SP101 in .357, as yet.

My pistol smith did a fine job. It is a real "workmanlike" piece of work. Of course, the neat thing is I can "hit" with it.

Dale53

[BigSlick]

Thanks for the pics Dale :drinks:

I like it, I like it a lot.

From the looks of the rail, it won't add much weight at all and it is nice and compact.

Perfect for the SP101.

Without getting too personal here, how much did the rail and drill and tap cost you ?

After seeing yours, I'm sure I will end up with a rail on mine too.
________
Wendie 99 (http://www.lovelywendie99.com/)

[9.3X62AL]

That is a nice-looking set-up. From your earlier comments, I thought it would look like a cab-over camper on a 70's Datsun pickup--not so at all, Dale.

Look out, varmints!

[Dale53]

Thanks for the kind words, fellows. This cost so little that I am almost ashamed to tell you. The base is a blank from Brownell's. It was milled by my pistol smith, the revolver was drilled and tapped by the same man. It cost less than thirty dollars complete... He absolutely refused a "tip". I am blessed.

My next project will be a custom Kydex holster to fit the revolver with dot sight. It'll probably take a while as I am way behind on my articles for the "Journal". I envision a compact "on the belt" holster with a front partially open to accomodate the scope base. I'll be making this holster my self. I have received the materials and will get on it when possible.

Dale53

[BigSlick]

$30 !!!

I would definitely put him on the Christmas list :drinks:

I just figured it would cost an arm and a leg to get something custom milled. The local 'smiths would probably charge $200 and take 6 months with it.

I'm going to get mine done for sure, but I'm going to shoot it a little first. Maybe do it this fall or winter when the range is rained out.

One local guy who does a little 'smith work from time to time was an aircraft machinist for 30+ years and has a big industrial grade high end mill in his garage.

I've seen him hack some stuff up because he lacks formal gunsmith training, but I'm hoping he can D&T two holes and run a bridgeport for about 20 minutes without abusing the SP101 too much.
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[Dale53]

I have found when using a machinist (vs a true gunsmith) that if I give them specific directions I'll get a good job. It is a good idea to prepare a drawing with all of the pertinent information (can be an informal drawing - doesn't have to be a blue print) so that there is NO DOUBT what is needed.

The actual work in this case is just to mill the two level base and then locate and drill two holes. Be sure and get REALLY specific on the hole location for the machinist. Then you have a really good chance of getting a good job.

NOTE: the Weaver blank comes in various thicknesses. Be sure and get what you want. Also, the blank base does not include cross slots for the rings. It will be quite helpful to the machinist to see the dot sight you are going to use so he can properly position the cross slots for YOUR Red Dot Sight.

My preference would be to use a small reflex sight like the small "Doctor" or the "Burris Fast Fire". However, the Red Dot I am using cost me $30.00 (used) and they want $400.00 for the "Doctor" sight and $200.00 for the Burris sight. It does give one "pause" when I have a "Paid for" Red Dot sight that is working well...

http://www.opticsplanet.net/burris-fastfire-w-picatinny-mount-4-moa-dot-mat-fastfire-sight.html

AND-D-D, the more I use the present set-up the less "ugly" it looks:mrgreen:

Dale53

[Bass Ackward]

I have found when using a machinist (vs a true gunsmith) that if I give them specific directions I'll get a good job. It is a good idea to prepare a drawing with all of the pertinent information (can be an informal drawing - doesn't have to be a blue print) so that there is NO DOUBT what is needed. Dale53


Good Dale,

Many people make GRAVE mistakes trusting the shingle of "Gunsmith". School trained or not. Learn to judge what work is required by a gunsmith or if you can make do with a machinist. Even these come in various grades as well. Don't be afraid to ask what is done inhouse and about experience levels. The good ones have reputations. but even they have things that they do better than others.

In today's day and age the educational and tooling responsibility to get started is so vast that no one can possibly become a ..... Master Smith without specializing. And that specialization is the only thing would qualify them to hold that term. But you will still pay for the Master part anyway if you aren't careful.

A guy that has vision to take a piece of wood and carve away the chips that hide a great stock may NOT be any good at logical thinking required to perform repairs. A custom rifle maker may do well with wood, but only marginal with metal. And a metal smith might do well with handguns because little wood work is ever involved.

Human nature is to do things well that interest us. And the costs of tooling is out of sight. So if you need a restoration, you would be wise to seek someone that has focused in that area for a period of time. Unless you just want something refinished. Know the difference and you can save money or preserve value.

[waksupi]

Very true. Not every gunsmith, knows every firearm, or how to properly fix a problem.
If you see or hear of someone advertising thier self as a master gunsmith, run away. There are no American master gunsmiths, and no classification of that. The only masters are European trained, under the apprentice system. Same applies to engravers.



Good Dale,

Many people make GRAVE mistakes trusting the shingle of "Gunsmith". School trained or not. Learn to judge what work is required by a gunsmith or if you can make do with a machinist. Even these come in various grades as well. Don't be afraid to ask what is done inhouse and about experience levels. The good ones have reputations. but even they have things that they do better than others.

In today's day and age the educational and tooling responsibility to get started is so vast that no one can possibly become a ..... Master Smith without specializing. And that specialization is the only thing would qualify them to hold that term. But you will still pay for the Master part anyway if you aren't careful.

A guy that has vision to take a piece of wood and carve away the chips that hide a great stock may NOT be any good at logical thinking required to perform repairs. A custom rifle maker may do well with wood, but only marginal with metal. And a metal smith might do well with handguns because little wood work is ever involved.

Human nature is to do things well that interest us. And the costs of tooling is out of sight. So if you need a restoration, you would be wise to seek someone that has focused in that area for a period of time. Unless you just want something refinished. Know the difference and you can save money or preserve value.

[slughammer]

Very true. Not every gunsmith, knows every firearm, or how to properly fix a problem.
If you see or hear of someone advertising thier self as a master gunsmith, run away. There are no American master gunsmiths, and no classification of that....

I'll have to agree with Waksupi because he is in familiar with the buisness. I will say if you are looking for pistol smith though, check out the Amercan Pistol Smiths Guild. In PA I recommend Mark Hartshorne.


http://www.pistolsmiths-guild.com/index.php

[lovedogs]

Nice looking piece there. Bet you'll have a ton of fun with it. I've got two stock SP101's. One is one of the old original .38+P models, a 3-incher. I was still with the USFWS when I bought it and used it for my conceal revolver. It, like many Rugers, had it's bbl. turned in too far so the front sight was leaning a little. I sent it in with a letter on official stationery, Second-day Air. I sent it in on Monday and it was back home by Friday. It shoots like a rifle for accurate. Now that's service!

The other is a .22 LR with full lug bbl., 4-incher. It, too, is a good shooter. I use it for a camp & trail gun and to train others with revolvers. It's cheap to use as a practice gun, too. And, since it is a copy of the .38 it handles the same but is harder to load in the dark when doing reload drills.

Recently, I was looking at Ruger's web site hoping to show someone a SP101 with a short lug and couldn't find a .22 LR so equipped. Have they quit making this model in .22's? I didn't see any .22 SP101's there.

[Dale53]

I don't see ANY .22 rimfire SP101's, either.

FWIW, they are still showing 4" SP101's in .32 H&R Magnum. I would proceed to get one as soon as possible as I suspect that they may not be offered forever.

I can certainly recommend this revolver + cartridge combination.

Dale53

[BigSlick]

When I was looking high and low for mine in a 4", I called Ruger and asked if any distributors they know of may have one in stock.

Answer - no. They have (had ?) precious few left at the factory and were actively looking to do a group sell to one of the majors (RSR, Davidsons etc..) just to clear out their stock all at once.

I asked my dealer to call his distributor and ask the distributor to call Ruger and order one. This after I talked with a very nice lady at Ruger in the Customer Service Dept.

It took about three weeks to get everyone involved to do their part, but it did happen.

I got to thinking, it might be nice to give one as a gift to one of my Uncles, since he has certainly helped me out over the years. I called Ruger to try and do the same ordering drill and no joy. All were gone and no more to come, evidently due to lack of demand and low sales.

No idea who picked up the last few, but I can't imagine a bunch of them moving all at once, surely there are a few left in the food chain somewhere.

FWIW,
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[BigSlick]

Did a little looking around.

Looks like Davidsons got the last ones.

According to Ruger's website and Davidsons, they are currently in stock and available.

Better move fast if you want one ;)
________
LovelyWendie99 (http://www.lovelywendie99.com/)