How do these look? Need some help.

[dmclark523]

Okay, these are 230gn for .45acp. Honestly, I'm looking for an easy, simple way to pan lube rounds for all calibers and guns. So the recipe I am using, ( I don't know what it's called) is as follows:

1lb of Parrafin Wax
1lb of 100% petroleum jelly
2Tbs of STP gas treatment
Couple crayons for color.

This is a picture of the wax and the consistency after it hardened:

As you can see, easy to break, not crumbly.
47949



I made a test run last night with 10 rounds.

Group #1: 5 rounds, lubed with WD40, sized, wiped with a towel, and sat for 24hrs


Group #2: 5 rounds, pure cast boolits with nothing done to them.



GROUP #1

This is a picture of what the previously sized rounds looked like after the panlube:
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And then what the looked like after a second sizing:
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-------------------------------

GROUP #2

Here is a picture of what the unsized rounds looked like after panlube:
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And then, unsized rounds through the sizer for the first time:
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It may be hard for you guys to see, but it appears to me personally that group #2, the pure cast boolits, seemed to retain the lube better in every way.
After the second sizing group #2, it looks like they lost a lot of their lube...


So what do you guys think?

Does group 2 look good? Are those ready to shoot?

[btroj]

They are ready to shoot. How well they shoot is up to your gun to decide.

Load 50 or so and go find out. That is enough to ER a pretty good idea of how the lube and bullet are doing.

Look to see if the bullets go into an acceptable size group and if leading is present.

Good groups and no leading for 50 rounds would make me plenty happy.

[fredj338]

Add more PJ to get it less brittle, but Parrafin is never going to be as good as Beeswax. Sizing is likely pushign some lube out of the tiny TL grooves. They are really not designed for sizing but to be shot as cast.

[44man]

Too hard and brittle. Lube should not break.

[dmclark523]

It's not brittle at all. I can bend it pretty good before it tears. It doesn't break or snap, it tears. You could put your thumb through it with it a little ambition.

I don't want to use Alox. To messy. Already tried that. Pan-lubing is my best bet. Any other suggestions?

[btroj]

Like I said, load some and go shoot them.

We can make suggestions and you can tweak the lube all day long but until you shoot them it is all a guess.

A 45 auto is pretty hard to find a bad lube for. Go give it a try.

[geargnasher]

I'm still wondering about trying to pan-lube a tumble-lube style boolit, and why you used STP GASOLINE treatement instead of OIL treatment, but to each their own.

Gear

[725]

What's the deal with the WD-40? I'd keep a penetrant like that away from my powder. YMMV

[44man]

It's not brittle at all. I can bend it pretty good before it tears. It doesn't break or snap, it tears. You could put your thumb through it with it a little ambition.

I don't want to use Alox. To messy. Already tried that. Pan-lubing is my best bet. Any other suggestions?
I also question STP gas treatment???
You should be able to take a hunk of that lube and form it into a ball with your fingers. It should pull apart like putty, not tear.
But it might shoot OK so try it out.

[ShooterAZ]

While your process might work, you will have much better results pan lubing with conventional style boolits with an adequate lube groove. I tried putting some TL boolits through my lube sizer, and my results were...dismal. I have since traded off all of my TL molds, as I found I didn't care for tumble lubing.

If you are planning on really getting into casting, I would recommend buying conventional style molds, as you can use for tumble lubing as well as pan lubing and use with lube sizers. You have all your bases covered this way.

Just my $.02

Shooter

[mdi]

Well, I'd take your recipe and drop the paraffin and substitute beeswax. Cut down vaseline to 1/2 lb. Ferget STP. Change crayons to red (jes cause). Mix in small batches until it is proven. Measure bullets and slug barrel. You may not need to size. 45 ACP is a relatively easy cartridge to find a lube that works...

[AviatorTroy]

I think you'd be much happier tumble lubing those. I have the same mold. I know you are trying to use the same process with all your projectiles but sometimes that just doesn't work. I like straight Lee Alox in a square Tupperware container, thinned just enough to make a real nice thin waxy coating like a .22. Like I say I think you will be happier in every way with that. Takes 2 minutes, dry overnight, load, shoot, repeat.

[tomme boy]

The gas treatment came from videos on YouTube. I seen a few that showed it. I figured they ment to use the oil treatment.

[btroj]

Ah yes, YouTube, the first choice of Internet experts everywhere...........

[geargnasher]

The gas treatment came from videos on YouTube. I seen a few that showed it. I figured they ment to use the oil treatment.

Stupidity on Utube: The only thing more abundant in the universe than hydrogen.

Gear

[Recluse]

What I think is. . .

If you'd read the stickies here, as all newbies to boolit casting are strongly encouraged to do so, you would have either purchased a boolit mold conducive to pan-lubing (which TL designs really aren't--and again, a number of stickies explain why), or you would've found a formula for non-messy tumble-lubing.

Instead, it appears you went to YouTube first. . . [smilie=b:

WD40 is a known and proven powder and primer killer. No ifs, no buts. . . proven. I mean, hell, we use it to neutralize primers on stubborn rounds we're going to have to beat around on or cut up to salvage the lead/projectile.

Paraffin as a base is not good. Sticky after sticky explains that and why.

STP Gas Treatment???

:coffee:

[Elkins45]

I have had no luck using conventional lube on tumble lube design bullets. The TL groves just don't hold the wax well enough.

Spend $5 on a bottle of tumble lube or mix some of your own--there's lots of good info in the stickies at the top of the page.

[Jim]

.....I don't want to use Alox. To messy. Already tried that. ....

I'm curious. Would you mind giving me a detailed step by step of how you do it? I've been usin' it for years and never get so much as a drop on anything but the boolits.

I'm just wonderin' here if we're doin' in two different ways.

[geargnasher]

If you think tumble-lubing with liquid Alox is messy, you aren't using the the way I do, that's for sure.

If you have a decent soft, tacky lube, you can use it on micro-band boolits just fine in a lube sizer.

Gear

[btroj]

I have sized many TL bullets in a Lyman and Star sizer. No problems at all.

As for Alox, do it right and it isn't messy at all.

[runfiverun]

hopefully we are done slappn the guy around.

just go shoot some of those boolits if they work it don't really matter what we say does it.
the gun has the final word every single time.

i'd question the w/d 40 and the gas treatment too.
look we all wanna save some money and use what we have when we first start out,but as we get older we start looking for a better way [read easier too]
try and learn from others trials.
sometimes spending 20 bucks now, pays off down the road in spades.

[Ben]

As I see this, each component in a bullet lube should have a scientific reason for being there ( not there just because you saw it on You Tube ).

The STP gas treatment ? ? ?