Bought my Mosin

[Gliden07]

Well I threw caution to the wind and bought a Mosin Negant. After Internet research and asking on here I think I got a decent one? My local Gun Shop bought it from a collection and was 90% clean of Cosmoline the former owner tried to refinish stock and sanded against grain and scratched the $&*# out of it! Dosent matter the stock had been fixed prior to this anyway and I plan on getting a differant stock. Bolts tight on lock down and all seems to look in good order? Next thing to buy is ammo and shooting it! Now the fun begins!!

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_244805055ec5dcf233.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=6695)

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_244805055ec6e87578.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=6696)

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_244805055ec80004c8.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=6697)

[plmitch]

Looks like a keeper. Alot of fun to shoot, just need to cast and reload for it now.

[I'll Make Mine]

Given the rifle's been worked on by Bubba, it's probably a good idea to check the headspace before you fire it. It's rare for a rifle direct from the arsenal (as most bought from importers are) to have bad headspace, but if Bubba swapped the bolt with another piece, it might be way tight or way loose. Headspace gages aren't too expensive, and you really only *have* to have a "Field" gage (if it closes on the field gage, it's unsafe to fire due to excess headspace); a factory or surplus cartridge with a single layer of cellophane tape on the base (cover the whole flat surface around the primer) makes an acceptable "go" gage (if it doesn't close on the go or is very tight -- compressing the tape -- it's too tight and you'll have trouble getting it to close on a live round; this isn't unsafe, just not usable).

You should also use the multi-tool that comes in the accessory kit (assuming you got one) to check the firing pin protrusion -- you *can* measure it with the depth gage on a dial or digital caliper (should be between .075" and .090"), but it's harder than using the multi-tool. Protrusion is important because too little makes for "light strikes" leading to slow fires (= bad accuracy, even potentially dangerous hang fire) or misfires, while too much can cause pierced primers (= powder gas escaping through the bolt, into your eye and face).

[skimmerhead]

i bought a 91/30 and waiting for delivery, would anyone know where to find some brass for loading cast boolits? so far i haven't had much luck finding any.

skimmerhead

[texassako]

A lot of places are sold out of Privi brass, but I have seen Norma and Lapua available at some of the big sites like Midway, Grafs, Natchez, and Midsouth. You can buy a box of loaded Privi for less than that brass, but the Lapua sure is good stuff. For sale posts on here sure seem to get snapped up fast, or at least faster than me.

[Boyscout]

I would shoot the Privi rounds and start saving brass. Most people I see shooting at the range are using Brown Bear and Silver Bear steel cases. I got a bag of 100 Privi from Graffs a ways back. I just visited the web-site daily until it was available. Sellior Beloit shoots well but the brass does not seem to be as good. I also shot 2 boxes of Winchester Metric but it was a lot more that the Privi and didn't shoot any better.

[Wis. Tom]

I pick up at the range a few miles from where we live, almost daily, and 7.62x54R is about the only round I don't find brass for. Copper wash and steel is the only thing I see. Sad, because I own a Mosin Nagant too.

[doctorggg]

I pick up at the range a few miles from where we live, almost daily, and 7.62x54R is about the only round I don't find brass for. Copper wash and steel is the only thing I see. Sad, because I own a Mosin Nagant too.

For what I paid for Norman and Lapua brass you should know I would never leave any on the ground. It's possible someone might shoot reloadable Pri ammunition and not reload. However, surplus is so much cheaper I wouldn't see that happening often. But I agree with you, I wish I could pick up some reloadable brass from the range.

[I'll Make Mine]

Yep, surplus ammunition for the Mosin runs as low as $0.18/round shipped, if you buy by the crate -- you can't reload, even with cast bullets, for much if any less than that (certainly not if you have to buy your lead), so most folks who bought a Mosin just as a plinking gun buy a can or two at a time of surplus and leave it at that. I take home even my steel/Berdan cases, because I keep thinking I can reuse them some way (corrosive primed, though; I really should drop them into a bucket of ammonia water at the range, or at least clean them as soon as I finish cleaning the rifle).

Seriously, though, you can buy loaded Prvi Partizan ammunition for less than the cost of Norma, Lapua, or Winchester primed brass. Even if (as stated on another thread) the PP only lasts three loadings or so (and I'm sure it'll do better if annealed and neck sized), it's still pretty cost effective by comparison.

[Gliden07]

Given the rifle's been worked on by Bubba, it's probably a good idea to check the headspace before you fire it. It's rare for a rifle direct from the arsenal (as most bought from importers are) to have bad headspace, but if Bubba swapped the bolt with another piece, it might be way tight or way loose. Headspace gages aren't too expensive, and you really only *have* to have a "Field" gage (if it closes on the field gage, it's unsafe to fire due to excess headspace); a factory or surplus cartridge with a single layer of cellophane tape on the base (cover the whole flat surface around the primer) makes an acceptable "go" gage (if it doesn't close on the go or is very tight -- compressing the tape -- it's too tight and you'll have trouble getting it to close on a live round; this isn't unsafe, just not usable).

You should also use the multi-tool that comes in the accessory kit (assuming you got one) to check the firing pin protrusion -- you *can* measure it with the depth gage on a dial or digital caliper (should be between .075" and .090"), but it's harder than using the multi-tool. Protrusion is important because too little makes for "light strikes" leading to slow fires (= bad accuracy, even potentially dangerous hang fire) or misfires, while too much can cause pierced primers (= powder gas escaping through the bolt, into your eye and face).

I did'nt get the kit with it. I do have a question if the rifle doesnt headspace correctly. How do you fix it? Say I load the "go" gauge and I find the bolt tight what do I do? Do I need to get a new bolt is it something I can fix or does it need a Gun Smith or is the gun junk??

[Ironnewt]

It's a shame that the guy sanded it. As long as you don't mention any plans to alter it the "Russian Mosin Nagant Forums" is a great source of info. As is 7.62x54.net

[wrench]

Gliden, congratulations on your (first) Mosin!
A comment on your headspace quandary. I own and regularly shoot lots of Mosin rifles. I'm not normally a 'throw caution to the wind' type of person, but I've never checked headspace on any of them.
The rimmed Mosin cartridge headspaces on the rim of the case, not the shoulder like rimless cases.

If you must check, get a field gauge, the bolt should not close with it in place. You can change headspace with different bolt heads.
If it were me, I'd go ahead and shoot it.[smilie=1:

Here is where a lot of Mosin nuts hang out...
http://forums.gunboards.com/forum.php

[WILCO]

Gliden, congratulations on your (first) Mosin!

Ditto for me!

[kenyerian]

I'm sure you will enjoy it. out of all of the guns that me and my brother have available for the kids and grandkids to shoot the Mosin is definetly one of the most popular. very fun to plink with.

[KCSO]

I have a full military stock un touched if you want it back up to snuff. But don't be too quick to blame bubba as some of the factory re furbs are pretty rough.

[Gliden07]

Houston we have a problem!! I have a couple empty shell cases and the bolt won't close on the emptys easily I got the bolt to lock but it jammed up and I could'nt get it to open back up. I took the cleaning rod and dropped it down the barrel and finally got it open but there is something wrong with rifle?? What do I do now??

[Junior1942]

That simply means you picked up brass fired in a rifle with loose headspace and tried to chamber it in your rifle with tight headspace. Full length re-size it.

[junkbug]

Whose rifle were the empty cases fired out of? Mosin Nagants are famous for having widely variable chambers and tolerences. The headspace on the rifle that your test empty was fired out of could be fine, and your headspace can be fine also. However, the other rifle may have a fatter chamber, for any number of reasons. That would mean the fired case would not fit in your rifle. But otherwise, nothing may be wrong with either rifle, other than their empties won't easily interchange. That is a fundamental reality for handloading for most metallic cartridges.

I would just wear really good shooting (safety) glasses, and fire a few shots. Then look at your empties. Evaluate from there.

I have owned many Mosin Nagants, and have yot to have a headspace checked, or noticed a problem. Both with matched and mis-matched bolts.

But if your sense of safety won't allow it, find a gunsmith who will measure your headspace for you. This will be the safest route, and assuming you don't intend to buy dozens more, probably the most cost effective

[I'll Make Mine]

Say I load the "go" gauge and I find the bolt tight what do I do? Do I need to get a new bolt is it something I can fix or does it need a Gun Smith or is the gun junk??

You're far more likely to find the rifle closes on a "field" gage than to discover it won't close on a "go". As noted, the tight bolt you got with a fired case was probably because the case came from a rifle with, not looser headspace (headspace is on the rim with 7.62x54R) but either a larger diameter or longer chamber than yours. For whatever it's worth, my own 91/30 is pretty tight rechambering its own fired cases (steel surplus cases), but not as tight as what you report. I'd try the same test with a live round with a layer of cellophane tape, as I described above. (remove the firing pin and spring, if you're very concerned about the possibility of an accidental discharge, but with most Mosin triggers you aren't likely to fire it with a gentle touch -- just watch for negligent full-power pulls).

If you *do* find your headspace is wrong, as noted, you'll need to change the bolt head. Unfortunately, since we're none of us at a Soviet arsenal with a bin full of bolt heads by our left elbow, it's a bit of a coin toss getting one that's tighter or looser than what you have. Alternate to buying, potentially, multiple bolt heads, if it's way loose, a gunsmith can shim the bolt face; if it's way tight, a little lapping of the rear surfaces of the bolt head lugs will loosen it -- but that's also best done by someone with experience and insurance, since a few thousandths too much and you've now got a "too loose" headspace.

For whatever it's worth, though, the only reason I mentioned it is because a Bubba worked on your rifle -- if they showed ignorance on the stock, heaven only knows what else they might have done.

[OBIII]

Midway is selling Privi ammo in reloadable brass for 15.99. Not cheap, but cheaper than a lot of others. Better than nothing.

[wallenba]

Headspace is important, don't get me wrong. But I've not had a problem with any of mine. I have seven now of several variants. I bought a turned down bolt body from George Tossen on E-bay and installed it on a spare bolt. It headspaces correctly in ALL of my Mosins!

This company supplies gages to check that do not require the removal of the extractor. Work great!
http://www.okiegauges.com/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mosin-Nagant-Bent-Bolt-Conversion-Service-/250833575428

[I'll Make Mine]

Midway is selling Privi ammo in reloadable brass for 15.99. Not cheap, but cheaper than a lot of others. Better than nothing.

Loaded 7.62x54R ammunition in reloadable brass/Boxer cases for 80 cents a round isn't at all bad; it's what I'll be buying next payday. I've seen reports of the PP cases splitting after as few as three reloads, but that was with no annealing and full length sizing every cycle. If you only have a single rifle, you can greatly extend case life by annealing the case necks after first firing, then neck size only and anneal again every fifth firing -- unlike cases that headspace on the shoulder, the Mosin won't push the shoulder back and reform it with each firing, and there's a good likelihood that even with PP brass you'll be able to get 15 or 20 loadings with this method (top end brass like Winchester or Norma might well last 50 cycles or longer with this treatment).

[skimmerhead]

just bought a mosin nagant m44 to go with my 91/30, hoping to get an m38 in a few days, also bought a yugo sks with grenade launcher. new in box never issued, mint condition. it is one fine looking weapon. i'll post some photos when i get them cleaned up. i'm looking for an m38 with the hex reciever and the tula arsenal mark, matching numbers. i think i found one but it ain't cheap and i can;t take it with me so i'm gonna pop it.

skimmerhead ( now i gotta get some ammo) :groner:

[Gliden07]

just bought a mosin nagant m44 to go with my 91/30, hoping to get an m38 in a few days, also bought a yugo sks with grenade launcher. new in box never issued, mint condition. it is one fine looking weapon. i'll post some photos when i get them cleaned up. i'm looking for an m38 with the hex reciever and the tula arsenal mark, matching numbers. i think i found one but it ain't cheap and i can;t take it with me so i'm gonna pop it.

skimmerhead ( now i gotta get some ammo) :groner:

It will be a while before you post pics of those Rifles if there in Cosmoline!! It took me 4hrs+ to clean my SKS when I bought it!! LOL!!

[skimmerhead]

It will be a while before you post pics of those Rifles if there in Cosmoline!! It took me 4hrs+ to clean my SKS when I bought it!! LOL!!

where are all your friends when you need them!!:popcorn:

skimmerhead

[JIMinPHX]

( now i gotta get some ammo) :groner:

http://www.jgsales.com/ammo-for-rifles-c-12_42.html

The Wolf Gold and the S&B both use Boxer Brass. Both have worked well for me. The cheap yellow tipped surplus steel case stuff is quite snappy & gives me stiff bolt operation but otherwise shoots well.

[I'll Make Mine]

Prvi Partizan is also brass/Boxer, non-corrosive in all loadings (as far as I know), comparable pricing to the Wolf Gold.

[Gliden07]

Whose rifle were the empty cases fired out of? Mosin Nagants are famous for having widely variable chambers and tolerences. The headspace on the rifle that your test empty was fired out of could be fine, and your headspace can be fine also. However, the other rifle may have a fatter chamber, for any number of reasons. That would mean the fired case would not fit in your rifle. But otherwise, nothing may be wrong with either rifle, other than their empties won't easily interchange. That is a fundamental reality for handloading for most metallic cartridges.

I would just wear really good shooting (safety) glasses, and fire a few shots. Then look at your empties. Evaluate from there.

I have owned many Mosin Nagants, and have yot to have a headspace checked, or noticed a problem. Both with matched and mis-matched bolts.

But if your sense of safety won't allow it, find a gunsmith who will measure your headspace for you. This will be the safest route, and assuming you don't intend to buy dozens more, probably the most cost effective

Well I was a little parinoid about shooting this gun after locking the bolt on used cases. You guys that said it was because it had not been fired out of my rifle were correct!! I brought it back to the shop where I bought it and they put a few new rounds into it and cycled it no problem!! So now I need ammo!! I asked the shop I was at what a case of Surplus ammo would cost me he wanted 175 bucks for 440rounds!! I thought that was kinda high!! Or am I wrong?? I could swear I've seen it for 90 to 120 buck for 440 rounds??

[I'll Make Mine]

I asked the shop I was at what a case of Surplus ammo would cost me he wanted 175 bucks for 440rounds!!

That's more than I just paid for a crate (880 rounds), including shipping. I got mine from SGAmmo, online; they shipped it right to my house (not in one of the socialist states) and it only took four days to get here from Oklahoma. As a bonus, I got the sturdy wooden crate (vintage 1972, just like the rounds), eight usable Soviet wood screws, and a heavy duty can opener for opening the two spam cans.

Do not assume SGAmmo still has the best price; it's been several weeks since I got mine, and there are a number of online surplus ammo vendors around -- do your homework.

[JIMinPHX]

I asked the shop I was at what a case of Surplus ammo would cost me he wanted 175 bucks for 440rounds!! I thought that was kinda high!! Or am I wrong?? I could swear I've seen it for 90 to 120 buck for 440 rounds??

The link that I posted above has 440 round tins for about $85.

[Gliden07]

The link that I posted above has 440 round tins for about $85.

Problem is I live in the Comi Wealth of Massachusettes most of the people online won't ship ammo to my state. It really stinks!! Thats why places like my local dealer can get 175.00 for the same case of Ammo most everyone else is paying half that for!! This is all thanks to the Attorney General threating to sue business's for wrongful death suits if something was to go wrong!! The thing that get me its not against the law to sell Mass residents mail order Ammo!! It's not right!!

[Gliden07]

Well I checked another dealer in town that I do very little business with. I bought a full case 880 rounds for $190.00 vs the $175.00 my normal guy wanted for 440 rounds!! I figured with shipping and the wait it was worth the extra couple bucks and I kept my business local!! Might have to consider this other guy more often! So now I have double what I was gonna buy!! What a delemia, I don't know what I should do with it all!! LOL!!!

[daniel lawecki]

I have a shot at buying a Japanese Arisaka rifles with bayonet gun is good to very good shape. Let me if I should buy?

[I'll Make Mine]

I bought a full case 880 rounds for $190.00 vs the $175.00 my normal guy wanted for 440 rounds!! I figured with shipping and the wait it was worth the extra couple bucks and I kept my business local!!

That's a very reasonable markup; I paid about $165 including shipping for mine (1972 Russian steel core light ball), so you paid, at most, about a $25 premium for local pickup. If you got the crate and can opener with it, you did okay.


I have a shot at buying a Japanese Arisaka rifles with bayonet gun is good to very good shape. Let me if I should buy?

Depends -- if you like milsurp rifles, or like the looks of the Arisaka, and the price isn't out of your range, why not? The Arisaka isn't as common as the Mosin, so you'll get a lot more flak if you alter it from military trim than you would with a Mosin, but there's a lot you can do to an Arisaka (just as with a Mosin Nagant or SMLE) to make it more versatile without making irreversible changes, or destroying the original appearance. You can't buy cheap surplus ammunition like we do for our Mosin Nagants (the Japanese had to stop making the stuff after the War, where the Russians and former Soviet Bloc nations are still making new 7.62x54r that will be surplus in thirty or forty years), but reloadable brass is reasonably available, and the ballistics of the gun are in the same class as .303, .308, 7.62x54r, and .30-06 -- i.e., perfectly adequate for any non-dangerous game in North America (if you choose to hunt with it).

[1Shirt]

Have a rifle and an M-38 Carbine. Had KCSO do a bolt turn down on both of them (nice job), makes a big difference in the camming actions. As both of these were 42 vintage, they are nothing special, but they shoot well, and are fun. However as noted by others above, they have a lot of variance between the two chambers, and the brass needs to be kept seperate or FL resized. Being a believer in minimal FL resizing for extended brass life keeping the brass seperate is an easy opition.
1Shirt!

[Four Fingers of Death]

Before I fire a milsurp or used rifle, I remove any springs, firing pins, etc from the bolt then re-insert the stripped bolt body and close it. It should wiggle justtttttttttt a tiny bit. If it has a small amount of wiggle, I reckon it is good to go and proceed. If too much wiggle or slop, it would be off to the gunsmith.

If in doubt, I put it in a stand on the bench, cover it with a piece of carpet and used a pickerer uperer to press the trigger while I stand back. I was pretty sure my Ross rifle was good to go and did this to be 100% sure. The rifle looks like sin, but has a good barrel. It cost me $600 a few years ago, it is the only one I have ever seen in Australia. My heart was in my mouth when I touched it off, I could see $600 going up in a big ball of flame, lol. But, it was fine and is a crappy looking, but very accurate rifle!

Another thing I used to do ( but have never thought to do it recently until answering this thread), was to fire a primed case in the rifle, I was always told that if it had excessive headspace, it would allow the primer to back out.

I have a 1917 Remington built Mosin Nagant in very original condition. It has been a safe queen so far, just have too many rifles and haven't got around to loading for it (I will buy some milsurp next time I'm in Sydney). They are a goofy looking, but quiet competent, accurate rifle and they were perfect for the bitter winters in Russia. They look like a giant kid's cheap 22, but are an excellent rifle.

[I'll Make Mine]

I have a 1917 Remington built Mosin Nagant in very original condition. It has been a safe queen so far, just have too many rifles and haven't got around to loading for it (I will buy some milsurp next time I'm in Sydney). They are a goofy looking, but quiet competent, accurate rifle and they were perfect for the bitter winters in Russia. They look like a giant kid's cheap 22, but are an excellent rifle.

I guess this is a matter of taste -- to me, the Mosin Nagant looks like an 1890s vintage military rifle, similar in general to the Krag-Jorgensen, SMLE, and Mauser 98. Long forearm and wood hand guard, internal (fixed) magazine, straight bolt, all based on design doctrine that was cutting edge when the Mosin was created in 1890-1891. There's something timeless, too, about a rifle that's stayed in active military service with only minor changes for 120+ years, firing a round that hasn't required significant alteration in more than a century (since the conversion from a long, heavy cupro-nickel jacketed round nose to essentially the modern lighter spitzer/boat tail steel jacket, around 1900-ish). It's the same thing that attracts me to the SMLE, come to that (haven't been able to afford one of those yet).

[Four Fingers of Death]

I didn't sat that they wern't a great battle rifle, but the first time you see one, the odd bolt and the big knob/cocking piece at the rear of it is nothing like any other rifle you are likely to encounter. Once you study some of the features, such as a relaxed bolt when it is in battery and not having the rounds on the magazine pressing upagainst it (and ready to freeze to it in a Russian winter), the orientation of wood grain to resist warping in the cold, etc, etc. Great rifle, but I still reckon it sort of looks like a boy's 22 with that funny bolt knob.

My mate has one of the cheap post war carbines and it shoots like a high dollar rifle, plonking home cast boolits into obscenely small holes, like I said, an excellent rifle.

[0verkill]

http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=A76254SC&name=Russian+7.62x54R+on+Mosin+Chargers+300rd+can&groupid=5

There's a link to AIM, 300 rounds on stripper clips if anyone's interested.

When shopping for ammo remember that Wolf Gold is the same as PRVI just in a different box and normally a couple dollars more, it even has the PPU headstamp.
S&B makes Winchester 7.62x54R and other "Metric" calibers.
I prefer S&B/Winchester brass myself.

[TreeKiller]

http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=A76254SC&name=Russian+7.62x54R+on+Mosin+Chargers+300rd+can&groupid=5

There's a link to AIM, 300 rounds on stripper clips if anyone's interested.

When shopping for ammo remember that Wolf Gold is the same as PRVI just in a different box and normally a couple dollars more, it even has the PPU headstamp.
S&B makes Winchester 7.62x54R and other "Metric" calibers.
I prefer S&B/Winchester brass myself.

Got some for the clips. Opened the can and the date stamp was 46 was afraid that they would not go off but shot 15 and the did no hang fire and 1 hammer fall each. Then spent 30 minutes cleaning the weapon.:groner:
Dan

[halbautomatisch]

Got some for the clips. Opened the can and the date stamp was 46 was afraid that they would not go off but shot 15 and the did no hang fire and 1 hammer fall each. Then spent 30 minutes cleaning the weapon.:groner:
Dan

That's the beauty of spam cans, 66 years later the ammo is still fresh like it was made recently. Those corrosive Berdan primers are also supposedly better than Boxer non corrosive primers as far as age goes and still firing off properly.

[I'll Make Mine]

I almost bought a case of those '46 rounds on clips, but passed because I was buying for the Appleseed shooting school and wanted ammo I could count on to be consistent (though at the price they were selling it for, the stuff on the clips was basically top quality Russian made stripper clips with free ammo loaded in). I've heard from one other person who bought that stuff that it seems to work fine -- and if I'd been buying for plinking, I'd have got the clips.

[Four Fingers of Death]

Pretty much any ammo on clips is worth buying, just to get the clips.

[I'll Make Mine]

I've heard lots of folks claim the only good clips are the Russian surplus ones, but I've got twenty that I bought new for $20 after I got my rifle (in February), and they've worked fine for me once I got my interrupter adjusted correctly and learned how to put the rounds in the clip so they don't have to be loaded from the correct end. I don't have the budget to buy ammo just to stockpile, so I'm sure the stuff on clips will be gone before I can afford to buy another case of surplus (and I'll be reloading and casting for my 91/30 by the end of the winter).

[0verkill]

To be honest, that's the only reason I posted the link, I knew I couldn't afford one right now. Otherwise I would have waited a couple paydays, ordered mine, then posted a link.
Just be patient I'll Make Mine, AIM gets 7.62x54R ammo on clips in from time to time. The last batch I know of was Polish 80's surplus and I was lucky enough to have money for two cases. I'm glad you got lucky with your clips. I got some from Cheaper Than Dirt that wasn't worth the effort of opening the package, let alone the money I paid. The ones on the Polish surplus worked great though.

[I'll Make Mine]

Well, I'll have a lot less surplus ammo this time next week (expect to shoot 400 rounds, at least, at the Appleseed this weekend), so by January (or tax time at the latest) I might be shopping for more surplus. The problem is, whoever schedules this stuff seems to check my pay schedule and work hours expectations and bring it in during months when I can barely afford to keep gas in the car and food in the cupboard.

[1Shirt]

Most of the sealed canned ammo on the market will go off. The problem with it is some of it is machine gun ammo, and is really stout!
1Shirt!

[I'll Make Mine]

Given I've still got 500+ rounds of surplus after shooting the Appleseed, I doubt I'll be buying any more of that for a while; instead, I'm getting my components together to start reloading and casting (already got the casting going) for my Mosin. Mouse fart loads for rabbits and squirrels, eventually full power paper patch for deer and long range targets. That five hundred surplus might last me a long time; they're great for plinking, but cast reloads will be cost competitive and easier on the shoulder.

[Four Fingers of Death]

Barrels hardly ever wear out shooting cast boolits either.

[Four Fingers of Death]

Most of the sealed canned ammo on the market will go off. The problem with it is some of it is machine gun ammo, and is really stout!
1Shirt!

I got a box of 1000 Indonesian F4 Nato ammo free, one of my Officers was being deployed to Afghanastan (reservist Cavalryman). Boy, that ammo it kicks like a mule, really punched above it's weight! It shoots ok in my 7600 Police, but I think I will use it in my Israeli Mauser and give the much more expensive 7600 a spell, before it rattles itself to death. I'm about half way through the box. It is a shame it is Bredan primed, but then again, how much 308 brass do you need?, lol I already have buckets of it, but it really goes against the grain, throwing nice shiny once fired cases into the scrap bucket.

[nitrohuck]

Welcome to the MN club! AimSurplus is having one hell of a deal on 91/30 stocks right now btw...

$49 for THREE stocks, at least one of em will be in great condition if not all,

enjoy the rifle!
~Nitro

[Four Fingers of Death]

Welcome to the MN club! AimSurplus is having one hell of a deal on 91/30 stocks right now btw...

$49 for THREE stocks, at least one of em will be in great condition if not all,

enjoy the rifle!
~Nitro

Use the dud ones to make pistol grips, handles, etc, you know the history of the wood and they will bring a smile to your face everytime you pick up a handgun or tool with a handgrip or handle made with an old Mosin stock. An honourable end for a Mosin stock.

[ROGER4314]

For some reason, I have soft spots for the Mosin-Nagant and Ruger 10-22 rifles. I can't seem to get enough of them!

I had a bunch of the shorter Russian rifles and they just didn't have the same appeal so I sold them. I like the 91-30's and especially the Hex receiver rifles.

Enjoy the rifle! It's a dandy!

Flash

[Four Fingers of Death]

I was always taught to use a primed case to check headspace. If the primer backs out it is too sloppy. Pulling a bullet and dumping the powder in a milsurp cartridge might not work as the crimped in primer might be too tight. Should work with a civilian case though.

[I'll Make Mine]

I was always taught to use a primed case to check headspace. If the primer backs out it is too sloppy. Pulling a bullet and dumping the powder in a milsurp cartridge might not work as the crimped in primer might be too tight. Should work with a civilian case though.

I wanted to check the headspace in my Mosin when I got it, but didn't (and still don't) have any reloadable brass. I do, however, have a lathe, and it was the work of a few minutes to look up the proper gage dimensions. Took me a couple hours to turn a set of headspace gages, plus a little extra time to get the extractor notches right (part of the time fighting with threaded rod scrap that was work hardened in the threads -- might have been 304 stainless, based on the appearance, months later, of the finished parts).

Best part is, I have these and they'll last forever -- and I can test headspace without waking up the dog... :)

[Four Fingers of Death]

I wanted to check the headspace in my Mosin when I got it, but didn't (and still don't) have any reloadable brass. I do, however, have a lathe, and it was the work of a few minutes to look up the proper gage dimensions. Took me a couple hours to turn a set of headspace gages, plus a little extra time to get the extractor notches right (part of the time fighting with threaded rod scrap that was work hardened in the threads -- might have been 304 stainless, based on the appearance, months later, of the finished parts).

Best part is, I have these and they'll last forever -- and I can test headspace without waking up the dog... :)

That is definetely the way to go! You have ended up with about $150 worth of tools!

[I'll Make Mine]

That is definetely the way to go! You have ended up with about $150 worth of tools!

Exactly right. I don't get to use this little lathe as much as I'd like, but now that I'm getting in to casting and such, I can see it getting more use. I can make a push-through sizing die and punch for a couple bucks in materials and an hour or two of fun chip-making -- seems like a better deal than paying Lee to custom make them to the size I need (.301 isn't a standard size for anything, but it's what I need to wrap paper patches onto).