Lee mold lube.

[trying2learn]

So my new lee mold says to use a lube on the spruce plate and guide pins. Is there a special lube I need or something that works better then others? I plan to use the recluse lube methods. So I have Lla for now.
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[H.Callahan]

Recluse's lube and LLA are bullet lubes. You need a mold lube. Randyrat (member here) sells an excellent product called Ziplube. Or, you can get some synthetic 2-cycle engine oil and use that.

You can find complete, illustrated instructions on mold lubing here:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=137982

[trying2learn]

So the stuff I put in say my weed eater gasoline? If so I have that already. I just use a thin coat of it in those parts?

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[H.Callahan]

If it is synthetic (important), then, yes.

Read the link and you will get a better idea of what to do. Remember, it takes very little to correctly lube up a mold.

[trying2learn]

Yea for some reason it didn't show the link to start with. I just read it and it really helped thank you.

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[trying2learn]

Is synthetic blend ok? That's what I have. If not I will run and get some after work tomorrow. Thanks for bearing with the new guys stupid questions.

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[Smithy]

I may not be the "Expert" in this, but I have been casting and rolling my own for over 35 years. Probably taught by an old timer (I can't remember) but I've always used (after the mold is stone cold) a good drenching in WD-40 and a quick dry with an air compressor set on a lower pressure. This leaves a fine coat of oil on everything. While it is still drenched I do move all movable parts to make sure the oil gets into all the nooks and crannies. If you have a propane torch, it's best to flame off the oil before starting to cast again. After a couple of warm up casts you should be good to go. Smithy.

[Wal']

Is synthetic blend ok? That's what I have. If not I will run and get some after work tomorrow. Thanks for bearing with the new guys stupid questions.

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Theres no stupid questions............just stupid un-asked questions. :cbpour:

I've only started casting as well & the synthetic 2-cycle engine oil is working perfectly. :D

[H.Callahan]

Is synthetic blend ok? That's what I have. If not I will run and get some after work tomorrow. Thanks for bearing with the new guys stupid questions.

I've never tried (or seen) oil that is a blend. I probably wouldn't hurt too much to give it a try and see if it works for you. Might be less trouble just to get some pure synthetic if it is easily available to you.

A question is only stupid if you DON'T ask it. We were all ***'s at one point or another. Plus, this is a hobby where one learns things all the time. I don't think I know anyone that has all the answers to everything. That's why this forum is great. Everyone can add their experience.

[trying2learn]

Don't get me wrong I truly think that the only stupid question is one you don't ask. I was trying to lighten a post and realize it didn't come across that way. I have spent all day trying to find full synthetic oil wIth no luck. All I have found was a gallon of royal purple. Not so cheap at all. I will give it a shot with the blend stuff. Thanks everyone.

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[H.Callahan]

Try and see if you can find a small engine repair shop. They might have some. If you are near water, try a marine shop.

[trying2learn]

Well I have tried everything short of bass pro. Napa all those auto house places. Home depot Lowe's nothing. Napa was where I found what I had found. May not matter much now as it is raining. And unless I sit at my back door I don't see me being allowed to cast. Put a fan blowing out the back door and sit right at it. Maybe. I know that when it comes to actually casting it is much safer the doing the initial ignots with all the junk burning off.

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[John Boy]

So my new lee mold says to use a lube on the spruce plate and guide pins. Is there a special lube I need or something that works better then others?
Use paraffin wax. It leaves no residue

[trying2learn]

Paraffin wax is the same as candle wax correct?

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[1hole]

Any petroleum product will break down with heat and leave a baked on layer of carbon on and in your molds, paraffin and candle waxes included.

[trying2learn]

I just used the 2 cycle oil I had. Very very lightly seemed to be ok. I ordered some of the lube mentioned earlier on this forum.

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[John Boy]

Any petroleum product will break down with heat and leave a baked on layer of carbon on and in your molds, paraffin and candle waxes included.

Paraffin wax is composed of a key element called hydrocarbons, a compound that contains solely carbon and hydrogen. The origination of paraffin wax is from crude oil, also laden with hydrocarbons of varying lengths.

Paraffin, though classified as a petroleum wax, occurs organically as an alkane hydrocarbon (made up of only hydrogen and carbon). Like most waxes, paraffin is a derivative of beeswax, created, naturally, by bees. Plants are also capable of producing paraffin because of the protective layer that develops over the leaves and stems of a plant to shield itself from different weather conditions.

The solid forms of paraffin, called paraffin wax, are from the heaviest molecules from C20H42 to C40H82. Note the long hydrogen chemical composition. The reason why it leaves no residue and all my molds have none. Beeswax has a much shorter hydrocarbon chain and leaves a reside when used as a lube in molds


Any petroleum product will break down with heat and leave a baked on layer of carbon on and in your molds, paraffin and candle waxes included. 1hole ... your totally wrong respective to paraffin!

[Martel]

Call me crazy but I have used RCBS 50/50 beeswax and alox for all my lee aluminum molds. When I started casting almost a year ago, I read the labels and thought that was what Lee recommended... I have not noticed any residue....just that I don't need much lube! Maybe I should pay more attention....

[Fishman]

Don't use lla or beeswax or anything similar to lube your mould. Use the two stroke oil. To give you some idea of how much, NOE ships their moulds with a one or two oz bottle. That should last for dozens of casting sessions. Apply with a q-tip once the mould is hot and you have a casting in it. You don't want oil in the cavities. You will get wrinkled boolits.

Make life easier too. Get an electric hot plate and preheat your mould on medium. I got mine at Walgreens, Sylvania brand.

[462]

Trying2learn,
Looks like the Bullshop is back in business. Shoot Dan a PM and see if you can order some Bull Plate.

[trying2learn]

I have some on order from randyrat. Not sure is he the same guy? I was told his is one if the best lubes out there. I hope I was told right. Haha.

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[Del-Ray]

Randy Rat is different from the Bullshop, but his ziplube is what I use, and it works great. Just don't ask for a free sample of his TAC#1, because you'll never use anything else in your luber afterwards... ... like crack. The first bit is ALWAYS free, because they know you'll be back!

[JIMinPHX]

Bullplate has worked best for me. My second best was a mixture of high temp grease from the auto parts store & never seize. My mix needs to be cleaned off periodically & reapplied. The Bullplate was much better to work with. 2-stroke lube seems to be a favorite of many people here on the board. Some old times use stick graphite, pencil lead or soapstone. I find that those don't last as long as I would like them to, but when they are all that is handy, they do get the job done.

[trying2learn]

I find the 2 stroke doesn't last too long. Maybe 4-5 casts. I don't know perhaps I am not applying enough.

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[Smithy]

Are you folk casting an absolute rumpload of bullets per casting session? I mean to where you have to lube your mold "during" the casting session? I find that after everything has cooled, that the lube I store my molds with is more than adequate to service my next casting session. Then it cools and I lube and store it and do it all over again. And even a Lee mold or a fancier brass mold will rust or oxidize not to mention the steel or iron handles unless you store them lubed with something. Smithy.

[gwpercle]

trying2learn ,

I don't know your location but I found synthetic 2 stroke oil in the lawn and garden section at local Wall Mart , it was in weed eater section.
If you're in the USA there has got to be one around you. It came in small bottle, 2.6 ozs and didn't cost much...Green Earth Technologies was brand.

Untill I found this forum I used beeswax... had no idea it was wrong. When I started casting there was no synthetic oils of any kind, the instructions said to use bullet lube, so I did...

Gary

[trying2learn]

I live literally across the street from one. They just don't have it. I searched and searched. Its ok now I got randyrats oil in yesterday.

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[Springfield]

Smithy: I like to cast at least 500 at a time, so I need to lube during the casting session most time. I also find the LEE aluminum moulds need more lube than most of my 2 cavity steel molds. I don't know why the other poster found synthetic 2-stroke oil hard to find, most any auto parts store carry at least 3 brands. Have to buy a quart of it, though, but that works for me as I also use it in my bullet lube. It doesn't seem to work quite as well as real Bullplate lube, but it is good enough, just have to apply it more often. That's what I will use when my current supply of Bullplate runs out.

[H.Callahan]

Its ok now I got randyrats oil in yesterday.
Good stuff. You'll like it.

[UT Phoneguy]

Smithy: I like to cast at least 500 at a time, so I need to lube during the casting session most time. I also find the LEE aluminum moulds need more lube than most of my 2 cavity steel molds. I don't know why the other poster found synthetic 2-stroke oil hard to find, most any auto parts store carry at least 3 brands. Have to buy a quart of it, though, but that works for me as I also use it in my bullet lube. It doesn't seem to work quite as well as real Bullplate lube, but it is good enough, just have to apply it more often. That's what I will use when my current supply of Bullplate runs out.

I found Amsoil full synthetic 2-cycle oil at my local NAPA the other day... I still have a bunch of Bullplate, so, I haven't tried it yet.

[mongo]

I have been using some TC bore butter, The yellow waxy stuff. Has been working great.