PDA

View Full Version : H&G 10 cavity?



NoZombies
09-11-2012, 12:46 AM
For those of you guys using these, what's the best method for using them? I've got a Lyman 20lb pot and a lee 20# variety. I can't imagine I'd want to use the mold without a guide, but other than that, are there any tips?

fecmech
09-11-2012, 10:16 AM
Eat your spinach for your muscles!

bobthenailer
09-11-2012, 10:48 AM
Ive used thoses 8 &10 cavity H&G moulds and there heavy to use if you dont have some sort of mould guide or steel plate riser to rest the mould on when pouring the alloy into the cavity's and wating for it to set up . also when you close the mould have it on a flat surface so the guide pins/ holes line up so you dont get premature wear on them.

Texasflyboy
09-11-2012, 04:56 PM
Hensley & Gibbs 8 and 10 cavity moulds were made for production. You will get the best results using a high volume casting pot and a mould guide to get this:

http://hgmould.gunloads.com/aa/10.jpg

The above took about 40 minutes with a custom built bottom pour pot.

NoZombies
09-11-2012, 05:44 PM
Yup, that's what I'm looking for; production. I'm hoping to get all of my .38 WC casting done for the year in a few sessions, rather than needing to stop the rest of my casting cycle when I need more WC's.

shooter93
09-11-2012, 07:22 PM
Coal shovel.

just.don
09-11-2012, 07:46 PM
Hensley & Gibbs 8 and 10 cavity moulds were made for production. You will get the best results using a high volume casting pot and a mould guide to get this:

http://hgmould.gunloads.com/aa/10.jpg

The above took about 40 minutes with a custom built bottom pour pot.

My wife won't let me sort on the dryer

Le Loup Solitaire
09-11-2012, 09:35 PM
These are, as previously pointed out, high production molds...especially the 8's and above all the 10's. They require a pot that has a capacity of preferably 20 # or more, and a mold guide/support to help with the weight factor. Over relatively short time you will achieve a high rate of production, but the heavier weight of especially the 10 cav will be felt in the arm that holds it. If you have the factors going right and you have the stamina you can crank out a hell of a lot of good bullets with a very low rate of rejects...the number depending on you and how long you want to keep at it. The molds are superb in workmanship and quality...no leementing or contemplating your bellybutton over quality control issues. But take good care of your mold and secure it against rust and harm when you're finished; it will as such last you a lifetime. LLS

Echo
09-11-2012, 09:46 PM
While I don't have any H&G 8- or 10-cavity molds, I have built little stages out of 1x3 to lift the 4-bangers I do have up to the correct level. Should be able to do the same for the 8-/10-bangers.

starreloader
09-11-2012, 10:42 PM
Ladle pouring and a large capacity pot is the way to work these moulds... I have 8 of the 10 cav's and 3 or the 8 cav's... Build yourself 2 drop boxes to work your moulds on... You don't have to muscle these moulds, just need to work smart with them... Once you get the hang of working with them you will easily do a 1000 bullets an hour and still be able to take a 10 minute or so break.

bobthenailer
09-12-2012, 08:34 AM
Hensley & Gibbs 8 and 10 cavity moulds were made for production. You will get the best results using a high volume casting pot and a mould guide to get this:

http://hgmould.gunloads.com/aa/10.jpg

The above took about 40 minutes with a custom built bottom pour pot.

Thats the same clothes washer my wife has ! whats going on here !

vernm
09-12-2012, 09:35 AM
You don't have to muscle these moulds, just need to work smart with them... Once you get the hang of working with them you will easily do a 1000 bullets an hour and still be able to take a 10 minute or so break.

I screwed two peices of aluminum angle onto a 2X6 board to use as a guide. Adjusted the height with shims of 1/4 in plywood.

Installed a 16" piece of 4X4 in on corner of a wooden catch box. After pouring the mould, I turned the mould on it's side and rested the hindge on the 4X4. Whack the sprue plate with a heavy plastic hammer and the sprue falls into the box. You can also open the mould over a second box and rest the mould on the box while you tap the mould to remove any boolits that stick in the mould. Don't hold the mould with your arms any more than you have to.

With my ten cavity, I have enough bullets to last me for the duration. Now that I am almost 70, I oiled the mould well and set it in the back of my cabinet. It's not a mould for an Old Timer.

NoZombies
09-12-2012, 12:41 PM
Thanks for all the advice guys! Whenever I get my casting stuff unpacked from the move, I'll be putting this one into action once again.

saint_iverson
09-14-2012, 04:22 PM
With a 10 cav being so big, w a lyman or equivalent 20#-wouldnt the mold guide and clearance to the back towards the pot prevent the utilization of cavities nearest the hand? Even w my 6 cavs I have to fill at an angle w respect to the back of the pot regulator. The guides look like they'd get in the way and prevent full mold utilization without working around it.

BTW id be surprised if you take longer than 30 mins to go thru 20#'s keep the pot hot and stock it w smaller invitation frequently if your looking to use it for more than 45mins or you'll have to wait for the remelt and mold temp to keep up.

Awesome mold BTW, have the same in 4cav-for now ;)

sagamore-one
09-15-2012, 08:14 AM
I cast on an inclined platform that keeps the moulds at the same basic level from pour to opening to decrease the lifting . Inclined 1/2 inch from front to back. No mould guide. Normally I use two 6 or two 8 or two 10 cavity moulds at the same time. Work one to the right, work the other to the left. The rythem of cycling, of filling then emptying is smooth and relaxing.Takes 30-45 minutes to empty a 22 lb pot, depending on bullet weight. This is my therapy time.

shotstring
09-16-2012, 04:52 PM
What used to do was use a giant pot, believe it was cast iron, and would easily hold 100 lbs if filled. Underneath that I put one of those propane torches for melting ice or burning weeds. It kept 50+ pounds of lead melted and at proper temperature. I used 5 gallon plastic paint cans filled with water for my booklet drop with a wet cloth towel over it with a slit in the middle for booklets to drop through. I put 2 x 4s on each edge of the 5 gallon can as mold guides and mold rests. The 2 x 4s held all the weight.

skeettx
09-16-2012, 06:22 PM
I like the moulds :)
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/MVC-027S19.JPG

FISH4BUGS
09-19-2012, 09:23 AM
I shoot a lot of full auto with cast bullets. My favorite is the M11A1 MAC in 380. I have a 10 cavity S55 that I cast for this gun. Thousands of bullets.
I preheat the mould on top of the Lee 20 lb pot but it still takes about 6 or more casts to bring it up to temp. Once that happens, however, LOOK OUT! You can rain bullets for hours on end.
Keep ingots on top of the pot to preheat. Drop in one or two as you cast. Keep the pot filled and up to temp. Use a mould guide. You will blow out your elbow if you don't.
That little buzz gun eats 380's by the thousands. With a rate of fire of some 1200+ rounds per minute, it doesn't take long to go through a thousand bullets. In fact, 1000 is about an afternoon's worth of shooting.
I cast maybe four times a year with the S55. Worth every penny of what I paid for it.

FISH4BUGS
09-19-2012, 09:24 AM
I like the moulds :)
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/MVC-027S19.JPG

Man...that is impressive.