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GP100man
05-20-2007, 10:44 PM
i have mainly lee molds & all the 38 cals. have a little bevel at the base of the boolit ,i want to remove this bevel !!!!
shouldi just flap wheel it away or try to cut it out then finish with a flap wheel!!

:castmine:

GP100 man

lar45
05-21-2007, 12:38 AM
I just did a 2 cavity 158 RF and used a sharp drill bit to whittle the bevel base away. It didn't turn out as nice as I'd like, but when the bullets are sized they look good. If you can find a flap wheel that small, it might work okay. You should go slow. Maybe a small grinder bit on a dremel or the sanding cylinders?
I haven't loaded any yet, but I think they'll shoot fine.
I was thinking about takeing out the gascheck shank on one cavity of the C358-180RF.

Buckshot
05-21-2007, 02:00 AM
...............Most of the machine tool suppliers like Rutland Tool, MSC, and McMaster-Carr have chucking reamers avail in increments of .001" at least. Rutland has them in increments of tenths (.0001, to .0005"). Mike the base of a cast slug and get a reamer a thou over. So if it mikes .3605" get a .3615" if offered. If not get whatever is closet to being a thousandth larger.

Reamers of that size should run about $18 or a bit more or less. They're designed to be held in a chuck so will have no tang, flat or square end. Use an adjustable tap wrench. Grind your own flats on the shank at the end. A cheap import (good enough for this) tap wrench will set you back another $6 or so.

The reamer will have most likely 4 to 6 straight flutes, with a 45* bevel on the end. This is the part that cuts. Put your mould blocks in the bench vise snuggly, then apply the chucking reamer straight down. Since the blocks are aluminum, do NOT press down with much force at all, as a new reamer is very sharp and aluminum is soft. You're in no hurry and there is no deadline. Not even the deadweight of your hand is required.

The beauty of a reamer is in the fact that it wants to center itself in the hole. Also, you natural MkI ModI eyeballs are actually quite precise in measureing so make sure the chucking reamer is being held straight as you slowly turn it. It will soon have the bevel removed.

..............Buckshot

Pepe Ray
05-21-2007, 11:47 AM
My compliments to you Buckshot.
You are a fine teacher/instructor.
It's quite clear to me that you realize who your speaking to and their needs.
I like it!!! Thanks, Pepe Ray

GP100man
05-21-2007, 11:08 PM
LAR45&Buckshot
thanks for the replys,i went with the cheap drill bit removal.
after i cut the bevel out by hand then i took the bit & chucked it in a cordless backwards & final polished the hole out, PERFECTLY with the bases nice & sguare!!!!
no more little bit of lube on the bottom of my boolits WOOOHOOOOOOO!!!!!
:castmine:

GP100man