LuckyLuke
09-06-2012, 04:26 PM
Castboolits - Alter the Induction hob for boolit-making
- Induction Hobs are good energy savers, though non-magnetic pots wont work. At all.. - more info here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_cooking
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Been shooting handguns for quite a while now. Handloading for
quite a while too.
But just recently I have at last made my OWN boolits!
Never been much into Recycling..until now that is :-)
Couple days ago I made my first lead ingots – with the
help of a cheap gas stove + 20-30kg Range Scrap
(44-66lbs)
Those little gas bottles didn´t last long though, so
instead I bought a Induction Hob.
Turned out the Induction Hob did not like scrap. After :coffee: consulting
the instruction manual..well..the hob had a heat-protector at 300c.
Not practical when the lead melt temperature are 328c(601K).
Googled around a bit but just didn´t find any info on if it was
possible to modify the Induction Hob so it would be possible
to make it into a lead melter.
Turned out that it was easy, at least on my
“Biltema Induktionshäll art.nr 84057”
http://biltema.se/sv/Fritid/Husvagn-och-husbil/Kok-och-hushall/Induktionshall-84057/
Before you decide to open up your Induction Hob, please
take these advises seriously:
(!). If you manipulate your Induction Hob guts, then take it
for what it has become: Conceivably Dangerous!
-In other words, you shall hereinafter employ the Hob outdoors,
and at a place where you dont mind if it might catch fire, due to the fact
that you have removed the Hob´s integrated heat-safety!
(!). DO NOT SELL/LEND the manipulated Induction Hob! Even if
you inform the new owner of the manipulation: You can´t be sure
if the buyer later sells it to someone else and forgets to tell the story
behind it. If you do not want it anymore, destroy it!
Burned alive is probably hideous. Not something you want
happening to a random family.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------
1. MAKE SURE THAT THE POWER IS OFF. That is, that the
2. cord is unplugged!
Also it might be good advise to wait a few hours before screwing,
as there might be deadly electric power left in the capacitors.(?)
3. Remove the hullscrews.
4. Noticed that two eletronic devices were placed right at the
middle of the hob, just beneath the place where you place the pot.
Locate the one that seems to have anything to do with Celcius
or Fahrenheits – on the Biltema Hob, one of the devices had a “C”
printed on it, seemed logic that this one was it. If in doubt,
try google on the numbers that you might find on both the
devices to find out wich one is the right one.
What the other device does...not sure..but might be the
“switch”, that turn on or off the power to the hob, depending
on if there is a pot there or not. Or something else`?
-Do Not remove/replace the “pot-on-off-switch”!
Well, it might be fully ok to just cut away that temperature gauge-device,
but, at the same time, perhaps the hob quits working then.
So, instead just RELOCATE the temperature gauge to a place
where it isn´t so hot. I put mine at the fan guard-outlet.
I also had to unscrew the heater-element(copper-wires that
goes round in tight circles), to be able to relocate the
temperature-gauge-device.
Also, be carefull so the cables DOES NOT come into contact
with the inside-the-hull-fan, or any hot places.
If the fan would quit working you
most probably will have a induction hob-meltdown.
Especially likely as you have also relocated the heat-safety.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_2505550490086391a2.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=6565)
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_25055504900dbd8a7c.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=6566)
Then screw all the pieces together again.
-Done!
OPERATION OF ´MANIPULATED´ INDUCTION HOB
The Biltema Induction Hob has alot of different heat settings,
from 400W – 2.200W.
At the 400W, the lead does get really hot, but doesn´t melt.
It´s a good choice however when you have to shut down
your melting for, perhaps, a quick visit to the toilet..
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_250555049015e839af.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=6568)
At 800W the heat seems perfect. The lead melts fast. Might also
possible be picking up heat all the time, but as far as I´ve
noticed it´s just is totally perfect at the 800W-setting. The melted
range scrap gets so hot that a piece of flux-candle catches fire
almost immediately at touchdown. But then again..I´m a total
newbie when it comes to casting bullits - so perhaps the
flux shouldn´t kinda explode into flames when making the
drop?..
You might go with 1200-1600W for short ´bursts´ when
adding more scrap to the pot – but then you have to be
wery aware of what is happening to the pot/lead/hob..
Probably best to keep it at max 800W.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_250555049012448b1c.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=6567)
2.200W..nope. I might not be too carefull of my precious
Biltema Induction Hob, but 2.200W would probably make
it´s altered life unnecessary short.
At the 800W setting the hob seems to keep cool around
the pot – no problem with putting a thumb at the hobglass
about 2-3cm(½-1") from the pot.
2-3 hours range scrap-picking transformed into
1.008 pieces of 245gr .44Spec/Magnum boolits.
Still have to figure out the actuall sizing and lubing of
the boolits..casting them 4 at a time..sizing one at a time..
..wonder if the Dillon RL550 could size four bullets at a
time..only a bit expensive with four .430Lub&Size-kits..
Guess it´s time to pay a visit to Castboolits-lube-threads..
Got both a .429 and a .430 “Lee bullet lub.and.sizing kit.”
Think I´ll try that .430 kit first.
Oh,...and plenty thanks to “Catshooter” - The problem
with that sprue plate on my Lyman 4-cavity 429421 getting
loose all the time seems solved..strange though that the info that
came with the mold didn´t mention nothing about this tensionscrew?
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=115984
“””Just below the sprue plate screw, on one side of the mould, you'll
see a set screw. If your mould was made in 03 then this screw will be
an Allen socket screw. Loosen that dude up, it clamps the sprue plate
screw and won't let it turn. Then you can tighten the sprue plate screw
until you like how much it's holding the sprue plate.
Then re-tighten the set screw. “””
But thanks to this my first ever casting-night taught me a lot about
sprue plate tension.
-Noticed that the plate can be quite loose. Also seems that the problem
with having ´round´ corners of the bulletbase are less likely to appear when
the plate is pretty loose(?) Might be other problems as well. As a too cold,
or too hot sprueplate? Or mold?
Well, I´m pretty darn sure that Ill find the info on this glorius forum!
:castmine:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_25055504905168a940.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=6574)
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_25055504905297c58e.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=6575)
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_250555049053786da0.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=6576)
- Induction Hobs are good energy savers, though non-magnetic pots wont work. At all.. - more info here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_cooking
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Been shooting handguns for quite a while now. Handloading for
quite a while too.
But just recently I have at last made my OWN boolits!
Never been much into Recycling..until now that is :-)
Couple days ago I made my first lead ingots – with the
help of a cheap gas stove + 20-30kg Range Scrap
(44-66lbs)
Those little gas bottles didn´t last long though, so
instead I bought a Induction Hob.
Turned out the Induction Hob did not like scrap. After :coffee: consulting
the instruction manual..well..the hob had a heat-protector at 300c.
Not practical when the lead melt temperature are 328c(601K).
Googled around a bit but just didn´t find any info on if it was
possible to modify the Induction Hob so it would be possible
to make it into a lead melter.
Turned out that it was easy, at least on my
“Biltema Induktionshäll art.nr 84057”
http://biltema.se/sv/Fritid/Husvagn-och-husbil/Kok-och-hushall/Induktionshall-84057/
Before you decide to open up your Induction Hob, please
take these advises seriously:
(!). If you manipulate your Induction Hob guts, then take it
for what it has become: Conceivably Dangerous!
-In other words, you shall hereinafter employ the Hob outdoors,
and at a place where you dont mind if it might catch fire, due to the fact
that you have removed the Hob´s integrated heat-safety!
(!). DO NOT SELL/LEND the manipulated Induction Hob! Even if
you inform the new owner of the manipulation: You can´t be sure
if the buyer later sells it to someone else and forgets to tell the story
behind it. If you do not want it anymore, destroy it!
Burned alive is probably hideous. Not something you want
happening to a random family.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------
1. MAKE SURE THAT THE POWER IS OFF. That is, that the
2. cord is unplugged!
Also it might be good advise to wait a few hours before screwing,
as there might be deadly electric power left in the capacitors.(?)
3. Remove the hullscrews.
4. Noticed that two eletronic devices were placed right at the
middle of the hob, just beneath the place where you place the pot.
Locate the one that seems to have anything to do with Celcius
or Fahrenheits – on the Biltema Hob, one of the devices had a “C”
printed on it, seemed logic that this one was it. If in doubt,
try google on the numbers that you might find on both the
devices to find out wich one is the right one.
What the other device does...not sure..but might be the
“switch”, that turn on or off the power to the hob, depending
on if there is a pot there or not. Or something else`?
-Do Not remove/replace the “pot-on-off-switch”!
Well, it might be fully ok to just cut away that temperature gauge-device,
but, at the same time, perhaps the hob quits working then.
So, instead just RELOCATE the temperature gauge to a place
where it isn´t so hot. I put mine at the fan guard-outlet.
I also had to unscrew the heater-element(copper-wires that
goes round in tight circles), to be able to relocate the
temperature-gauge-device.
Also, be carefull so the cables DOES NOT come into contact
with the inside-the-hull-fan, or any hot places.
If the fan would quit working you
most probably will have a induction hob-meltdown.
Especially likely as you have also relocated the heat-safety.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_2505550490086391a2.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=6565)
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_25055504900dbd8a7c.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=6566)
Then screw all the pieces together again.
-Done!
OPERATION OF ´MANIPULATED´ INDUCTION HOB
The Biltema Induction Hob has alot of different heat settings,
from 400W – 2.200W.
At the 400W, the lead does get really hot, but doesn´t melt.
It´s a good choice however when you have to shut down
your melting for, perhaps, a quick visit to the toilet..
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_250555049015e839af.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=6568)
At 800W the heat seems perfect. The lead melts fast. Might also
possible be picking up heat all the time, but as far as I´ve
noticed it´s just is totally perfect at the 800W-setting. The melted
range scrap gets so hot that a piece of flux-candle catches fire
almost immediately at touchdown. But then again..I´m a total
newbie when it comes to casting bullits - so perhaps the
flux shouldn´t kinda explode into flames when making the
drop?..
You might go with 1200-1600W for short ´bursts´ when
adding more scrap to the pot – but then you have to be
wery aware of what is happening to the pot/lead/hob..
Probably best to keep it at max 800W.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_250555049012448b1c.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=6567)
2.200W..nope. I might not be too carefull of my precious
Biltema Induction Hob, but 2.200W would probably make
it´s altered life unnecessary short.
At the 800W setting the hob seems to keep cool around
the pot – no problem with putting a thumb at the hobglass
about 2-3cm(½-1") from the pot.
2-3 hours range scrap-picking transformed into
1.008 pieces of 245gr .44Spec/Magnum boolits.
Still have to figure out the actuall sizing and lubing of
the boolits..casting them 4 at a time..sizing one at a time..
..wonder if the Dillon RL550 could size four bullets at a
time..only a bit expensive with four .430Lub&Size-kits..
Guess it´s time to pay a visit to Castboolits-lube-threads..
Got both a .429 and a .430 “Lee bullet lub.and.sizing kit.”
Think I´ll try that .430 kit first.
Oh,...and plenty thanks to “Catshooter” - The problem
with that sprue plate on my Lyman 4-cavity 429421 getting
loose all the time seems solved..strange though that the info that
came with the mold didn´t mention nothing about this tensionscrew?
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=115984
“””Just below the sprue plate screw, on one side of the mould, you'll
see a set screw. If your mould was made in 03 then this screw will be
an Allen socket screw. Loosen that dude up, it clamps the sprue plate
screw and won't let it turn. Then you can tighten the sprue plate screw
until you like how much it's holding the sprue plate.
Then re-tighten the set screw. “””
But thanks to this my first ever casting-night taught me a lot about
sprue plate tension.
-Noticed that the plate can be quite loose. Also seems that the problem
with having ´round´ corners of the bulletbase are less likely to appear when
the plate is pretty loose(?) Might be other problems as well. As a too cold,
or too hot sprueplate? Or mold?
Well, I´m pretty darn sure that Ill find the info on this glorius forum!
:castmine:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_25055504905168a940.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=6574)
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_25055504905297c58e.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=6575)
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_250555049053786da0.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=6576)