Marking Reloaded Shotshells

[beagle]

Looking for a way to neatly mark 12 guage reloads as to shot size. Somewhere I have seen a marking set to do this but so far, I haven't found it.

Kind of frustrating to hunt droves and find you have buckshot. Dangerous too to other shooters.

I've tried sharpies but it wears off.

Looking for a rubber stamp and an ink that will last at least as good as the factory markings.

Remove old marking with steel/bronze wool, restamp with new shot size and drive on.

Any ideas appreciated./beagle

[Firebricker]

Beagle, Check out Ballistic Products or Precision Reloading they have them. FB

[beagle]

I thought so too but I couldn't find it on line. Guess I'll have to find my catalog and browse the old fashioned way./beagle


Beagle, Check out Ballistic Products or Precision Reloading they have them. FB

[Kskybroom]

Page #67
I will brand them with a steel stamp set ...
...That helps me with my OCD...

[429421Cowboy]

I have found that sharpie on the primer lasts better than writing on the side of the hull, if that helps! Also Sharpie makes an industrial marker that will not come off with solvents or heat, we use them for vet work because alcohol won't rub it off and it will survive sterilization. Never used one on a shotshell but it might work too, till you find the tool you're looking for!

[crowbuster]

We just mark the box, and change the sticker if the same thing is not loaded in the empty box next time, we do go through a lot of shells however, wouldnt think of marking each shell, just one more thing to sort.:redneck:

[Firebricker]

Look under BPI produced products then under load organization. FB

[Firebricker]

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Load-Organization/products/592/
Here's the link a messed up when I tried to put it in my last post. I bought a neat old shell marking tool awhile back. It has a stamp on an arm with interchangeable letters and numbers. then you just put the shell in the holder and stamp it. It's a great idea but I believe it was more for paper shells. The letters really are not big enough to see well and don't show up well on plastic. FB

[duckndawg]

use a dfferent colored hull? i use rem. gun clubs for dove, rem blue peters for pheasant, rem nitro gold for CAS, rem STS for trap, and win AA for sporting clays. no mix ups.

[beagle]

That's it. Thanks. I recall seeing it but couldn't find it./beagle


http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Load-Organization/products/592/
Here's the link a messed up when I tried to put it in my last post. I bought a neat old shell marking tool awhile back. It has a stamp on an arm with interchangeable letters and numbers. then you just put the shell in the holder and stamp it. It's a great idea but I believe it was more for paper shells. The letters really are not big enough to see well and don't show up well on plastic. FB

[steg]

I use a color code on the primers using sharpies. Works well for me, and when the shell is de-primed after firing, you start over without any other cleanup......

[John in WI]

I've been roll crimping my shells, and for a few extra pennies you can get the clear overshot cards. It's completely idiot proof and I've had nothing with good luck with the BPI roll crimper.

[mtgrs737]

Been doing what Steg says for about a year now, works good as long as you don't have too short of a memory and few enough loads that you don't run out of colors.

[cajun shooter]

I roll crimp all my reloaded black powder shells for SASS. The marker kits from BPI and Precision Reloading are meant to use on the overshot cards that are used in the roll crimping method of loading. They don't do a good job on the plastic hulls.
As has been posted by another member, the Marks A LOT Co. makes a stronger ink intended for industrial use. That is the one to find if marking a modern hull.

[mac1911]

If your dead set on stamping them in some way call several rubber stamp makers. Ask them about stamps designed to stamp round surfaces and industrial inks. I have a old numbered stamped. You can adjust the numbers to what ever number you want. Its a bit big for shotshell stamping. I suspose you can cut out a simulated silk screening type template and use a small roller to print on the ink?
Personally I do the colored shell and mark the brass with industrial sharply. RED is slugs. Green hulls are trap. Black hulls are bird shot. I don't load any other styles.

[jimb16]

Personally, I just scribble out the load data on a small slip of papaer and stick it in the box. Since I leave it there until the box is empty, I always know exactly what is in the box.

[beagle]

That's what I'm doing now but I always keep a box of shot and abox of buckshot handy with the 870 loaded with buckshot. Sometimes, I switch and they get mixed which ain't cool in a dove field.

Guess I'll stick with a felt tipped marker or procure a number stamp and see how that does.

As technically oriented as we are, there ought to be an inexpensive way to do this nowadays. But, even the factory markings tend to wear off during handling./beagle


Personally, I just scribble out the load data on a small slip of papaer and stick it in the box. Since I leave it there until the box is empty, I always know exactly what is in the box.

[shotman]

cowboy had it right sharpie works . on hull make sure its not the water type

[Combat Diver]

I generally mark my boxes. Also, I only load buck shot in high brass were shot are all low brass.


CD

[EMC45]

I always put a big "B" or "S" for buckshot or slug on the headstamp with a "Sharpie" and they do just fine. Little acetone wipes them clean too.

[DODGEM250]

When I reload my shotshells I turn the cardboard factory box inside out and hot glue the flaps so there is only brown cardboard showing and no factory ink what-so-ever. I then label the top of the boxes with all the reload info with 2x4 Avery labels. This way it is plain as day that this is reloaded ammo and not factory loads. Put some clear packing tape over the labels to protect the labels from rain, etc.

As far as actually marking the hull. I don't bother. I don't have enough different types of loads to worry about a mix up. However, if you wish to mark the individual hull just print some "return address" labels, which are only about 1/2" X 2" if I recall correctly, just got to walmart and find some Avery labels and stick them to the hull.

I do make some effort to remove the factory ink on the hulls by rubbing it off with rubbing alcohol on a small rag. Some hulls require Goof-Off. It does not affect the plastic at all either way.