thinking of trying a Lyman mold

[mhp]

I have been casting with lee molds for more than 10 years and thinking of trying a Lyman mold. What will be the biggest difference?

Do you need to oil down the mold after each use? Will it clean easier than Lee?

Thanks for any insight.

mhp

[Wally]

I have been casting with lee molds for more than 10 years and thinking of trying a Lyman mold. What will be the biggest difference?

Do you need to oil down the mold after each use? Will it clean easier than Lee?

Thanks for any insight.

mhp

The Lyman mold is heavier and takes longer to get up to full casting temperature, although some use a hot plate to do so. The Lyman mold will allow you to cast at cooler temperatures (in most cases) than will the Lee. I find a Lee more comfortable to use--as it is lighter.

One should oil or seal the Lyman in the box with VPI paper to prevent rusting. In drier climate, one doesn't need to be so diligent about doing so.

[FergusonTO35]

Also, remember you need to buy handles to use a Lyman or other iron mold as they don't come with them. My undderstanding is that Lee six cavity mold handles work just fine for them.

[454PB]

I agree with Wally.

Here in Montana, I've been using Lyman moulds for over 40 years and I've never applied any oil or rust preventative, and I've never had any rust problems. If you live in a humid climate, you may be forced to take measures to avoid rusting.

Why do you have to clean a Lee mould? I never clean mine.

[rintinglen]

Lyman molds in similar designs tend to have fewer rejects as the iron holds the heat better. However, Lee molds are lighter and less fatiguing to cast with, allowing longer casting sessions.

Lyman molds with a modicum of care will last virtually forever, certainly a lifetime. Lee molds won't. Iron molds rust. Lee molds won't. Time spent fixing molds is time taken from casting. However, unless you expect to cast tens of thousands of boolits, that likely won't be a problem.

Lyman molds are better to learn to cast with. It is easier to make decent boolits because the iron molds are a little more forgiving in the temperature range that will produce good boolits. The experienced caster will get higher production rates from the Lee, because you have to cast fast to keep the mold temp up.

Lee molds cost one fourth as much, which means that if you aren't sure you want to stay with the hobby, or you just want to experiment with a different design, you tie up a lot less cash. Lyman molds have a better resale value, though.

I use both brands, but my preference is for Iron or brass molds over aluminum. However, if a design I want is only available from Lee, that's where I'll go. Lee six bangers are far superior to the 2 cavity.

[Larry Gibson]

+1 on what rintinglen posted.

I've lots of Lyman moulds and have to oil them between uses if not used again for a month+ here in the Pacific North West. I use Kroi and it cleans off easily before casting. I also have lots of Lees and other makes. Aluminum is more forgiving in the rust department but the iron block are more forgiving when casting. I choose a mould for it's bullet design though, not for it's make of material or maker. I have learned to make them all work satisfactorly.

Larry Gibson

[44man]

Boolit design is the first thing to think of.
Rust can be a problem depending on where you live but even if you need to oil, dish soap and hot water does well. VPI paper works too, just protect the mold.
Kroil is also good stuff, just NEVER use WD-40.

[beagle]

Yeah, depends on the humidity where you live. Here in KY, I get by with wiping down the outside of a warm mould with a cloth with 30W motor oil and storing it in a Lyman or other plastic box with no problems. In higher humidity areas you may need more protection./beagle

[mhp]

Thanks guys,did not think of the weight factor. I have such a time cleaning a new Lee mold I hate to think of going through that each time I wanted to cast
Bullet design is the reason I am thinking of a Lyman 158 RF mold to get away from the bevel base.
mhp

[Frank V]

I also live in a climate where rust isn't a problem. I've cast my own six-gun slugs for over 30 years & used to live in a humid climate. I'd oil my moulds & then burn out the oil casting. I found that to take a really long time.
I found some of the bugaboo of oily wrinkled bullets would be solved simply by cleaning my moulds with rubbing alcohol before use. I also found the horrors of breaking in a new mould that we hear often would be solved by a good degreasing prior to use with rubbing alcohol.:idea:
Oil them if you need to, then clean with rubbing alcohol before use, give it 5 minutes to dry on it's own & bingo good bullets as soon as the mould is up to temp.:wink:
Frank

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

MHP,

I have used Lyman molds for years, and while they cast good boolits, they are truely a PAIN to keep together!

It is almost a wrench on one hand and the mold in the other.

RCBS are a big step in quality as they don't seem to rattle loose as fast or often,

Better yet, are some of the custom molds.

I like 4 cavity molds - minimum - when ever possible.

I have one LBT mold which was the best mold I had ever used until I had Bruce of Babore - here on the Cast Boolit Forum - build me one shortly before he stopped producing molds. To bad, as he made a great quality product.

I have never been a Lee mold fan, although I use some of their 6 cavity molds which are a huge step up in quality over the single or 2 cavity products.

But, as said, I'd go with RCBS unless Lyman has made major improvements recently.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot