Who & what do you suggest.

[OverMax]

Wondering who gives the best deal on store bought small to medium capacity Ball Mills?
Need a little clarity here too. >I intend to make my own media by casting a few lbs. of 58-50 cal balls for the ball mill. Could I use linotype for that media purpose or must they be pure lead? All suggestions are welcomed.

[Shooter]

A guy on ebay sells iron ball mill balls, don't know if he has brass.

[waksupi]

Round balls can be most anything. I've used wheel weights for about 40 years.
Elongated boolits should be pure.
Try Harbor Freight for the mill.

[Tatume]

Round balls can be most anything. I've used wheel weights for about 40 years.
Elongated boolits should be pure.
Try Harbor Freight for the mill.

+1 Any lead alloy makes a good round ball, and sometimes hardened balls are highly appropriate for hunting.

[mooman76]

Like they said you can use most anything but it would kind of be a waist of good lino. I personally wouldn't use anything harder than WWs. I'd try trading to someone who needs it for something softer.

[1Shirt]

Agree with Mooreman 76. Pure lead may flatten out a bit on impact, and wheelweights probably wouldnt. On shoulder shots on deer, would probably get more penitration with WW. Just my opinion.
1Shirt!

[swamp]

From your post, I assume you are going to use the balls in a ball mill. For that purpose, I don't think it matters what alloy they are made of. As long as the balls crush up what you put in the mill and are non-sparking.

swamp

[OverMax]

Swamp, I thought it might be a good idea to use linotype for the ball mills B/P media because of its ( 22-BHN hardness) But I think there is a little bit of tin in linotype and not any found in pure lead. I'm not sure if its tin part can cause a spark or not in linotype form while being tumbled. Be assured I 'm a little leery yet about using linotype balls in a ball mill until I get a little advice first.

[swamp]

You might want to read the thread on making your own blackpowder.

[OverMax]

Tatume thanks for the tip. Got one from a local h/f store that wasn't all that far away. Great price!! too. Compared to other quite similar one's I've looked at on the Net. Nice addition was it came with extra belts and I broke down and decided to buy a couple as well. (never hurts to have a few extra) Now for a 75 ft extension cord added to the 75' cord I already have and I'm in business.

[Sasquatch-1]

I am not familiar with what you are doing here (I take it you are using it to crush up homemade black powder) But Would the zinc wheel weights be good for this application? Not that familiar with the properties of zinc and don't know if it sparks.

[OverMax]

Swamp suggestion:

You might want to read the thread on making your own blackpowder.

To undertake this type of venture. You can't imagine how much material I've read recently. Here and elsewhere.There are a couple different ways of going about this. But the main 3-items I think are.You have to pay attention to the {purity} and mix of the chemicals you use. And be concerned about your safety (>all three equally at the same time.<)

[Rojelio]

I think the harder balls would hold up better. I've never used pure lead in my ball mill, but, it seems like the balls would deteriorate and you would end up with lead powder in your mix.

I use brass. I cut a 1" diameter brass rod into 1" lengths. Even the brass is starting to wear away. The corners are getting rounded.

I wouldn't worry about a spark. Just take precautions. Even if it worked several time before, always turn it on remotely.

If ya'll are worried about the zinc, I won't tell you how I grind up my dried pucks:p.

Roger

[OverMax]

Sasquatch-1: I'm not worried about the zinc part found in lead. It's the tin part I'm concerned about. As I recall. I do believe there's a little bit of tin in W/W material too. And Yup your right. My intentions are to make Black\ Sir. Not much. Maybe a cup or two of it every now and then for my own usage. Reason to: I have two 54s here that show veracious appetites for the stuff at 100-grs. a pop.

[Fly]

Wondering who gives the best deal on store bought small to medium capacity Ball Mills?
Need a little clarity here too. >I intend to make my own media by casting a few lbs. of 58-50 cal balls for the ball mill. Could I use linotype for that media purpose or must they be pure lead? All suggestions are welcomed.

I would go with a Harbor Frieght ball mill for your first small mill.As for your
balls soft balls work ok, but ones cast from wheel weights have more tin in
them & are harder & do last longer.

Another thing that works well is 1/2inch brass bar stock.If you can find
a stick of 1/2 inch brass bar stock, saw it up in 3/4 long peaces.I think
they work even better, with no sparks to boot.

Fly:bigsmyl2:

[OverMax]

Fly: My son's a heavy equipment welder. I'll have him keep a eye out for some 1/2" brass bar stock for me. B/Mill already taken care of Fly. Took a tip from Tatume and bought a Ball Mill yesterday at h/f> locally. Drive Belt looked a little cock-eyed (misaligned) on it. But as of right now it's all ready to go. Well the mill is. But I'm not. I'm still short a 75' length of extension cord for it. Well than, since you've mentioned the use of W/W being OK for rolling media. Linotype should even be better. I know linotype is better than twice the hardness of W/W material. Until I get the brass, it looks like I'll be busy casting some linotype out in the garage for a temporary media. I'm hope'in the Lino should do a pretty good job. If anything I should gain some mighty smooth & polished 54 cal balls out of the deal.


Rojelio: In NO WAY!! Not a chance in He_ _ would I turn this mill ON while standing next to it after its been filled. "No Sir I like my appendages just the way they are."

[Rojelio]

OverMax, I
wouldn't either. Even though I've mixed numerous batches (1 lb. at a time) with no problems, I still wouldn't stand next to it with it running. I use a 100 ft. extention cord and just plug it in to turn it on. I run mine about 18 hrs.

Then I slightly dampen the meal powder and press into pucks with a 20 ton press. My pucks are 1 1/2" in diameter and about 1/8th" thick. When they dry, they are like concrete.

Then I crumble and screen for size. So far I'm getting 700fps with 30 grains (by weight) in my 1860 army.

Right now, I'm running a new batch with higher grade ingredients to see how much better I can get.

Good luck with your venture,

Roger

[Fly]

OverMax one place to buy brass rod on the net is Speedy metals. http://www.speedymetals.com/ But try some of your local metal
supplys first & save shipping & cost.

Rojelio I was going to bring this up but forgot to, till reading your your post.
But 18 hours seems a very long time to mill.Not knowing what type of mill
you have I can't comment other than this.

Lets say you have a Harbor Freight mill, 6 hours should be plenty "IF YOU HAVE THE
RIGHT AMOUNT OF MEDIA in the jar.It took me along time to figure that out.I have
milled for 20 hours before with one of those mills.

Then a pyro friend told me to fill the jar 1/2 full with media. & 1/4 with mill powder
& it cut my time down to 6 hours & just as fine.The mill I now have can do it in two
hours.
Fly

[Rojelio]

Fly, here's what I use. It's a pretty good size Lortone ball mill.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb280/rojelio0/IMAG0282.jpg
I've doubled the amount of brass balls since I took this picture.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb280/rojelio0/IMAG0281.jpg
I don't worry about grinding my charcoal ahead of time. I use homemade lump charcoal and with these bigger balls it grinds them to dust. I just add all the ingredients together and turn it on.

Roger

[Fly]

Ya, you have a good set up no dought.I was just saying if you added more media
it would cut down your milling time alot.This mill I made can do 600 grams in
two hours with just the one jar, it can do two jars at one grinding if needed.

But hey I also make fireworks (WINK) & we use alot more powder than what
a guy shoots in his guns (GRIN)

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i384/Fly61/DSCN0523-1.jpg

Fly

[Rojelio]

Nice setup fly. I don't really have an interest in fireworks (yet);-). My main interest is hunting and shooting. If I can make powder that can get me the velocity of Goex (or close), I'll be happy. I'm not quite there, yet. My current powder is costing a dollar a pound to make (potassium nitrate fertilizer, garden dusting sulfur, and homemade charcoal). My current batch I'm working on is costing 3.40 a lb. Maybe I'll get there with this batch.

The extra running time may not help, but, it sure cant hurt (other than wear & tear).

BTW, do you use your mill inside or do you move it outside when in use?

Roger

[OverMax]

Fly: thanks for the Speedy link. Nice mills both you fellows have. After seeing both. I'm ready and eager to trade up right now!! lol I appreciate the posts you two.

[Fly]

Nice setup fly. I don't really have an interest in fireworks (yet);-). My main interest is hunting and shooting. If I can make powder that can get me the velocity of Goex (or close), I'll be happy. I'm not quite there, yet. My current powder is costing a dollar a pound to make (potassium nitrate fertilizer, garden dusting sulfur, and homemade charcoal). My current batch I'm working on is costing 3.40 a lb. Maybe I'll get there with this batch.

The extra running time may not help, but, it sure cant hurt (other than wear & tear).

BTW, do you use your mill inside or do you move it outside when in use?

Roger

Roger there is no reason you can't make faster powder than Goex.I make
powder as fast as Swiss, I promiss.Ask the guys over at the Glutch web site.

We compaired powders this summer threw my crono.I got over 900 fps
with 30 grains buy weight with a Lee beam scale.I also make my own charcoal
from black willow among others.

I always say this about making home made powder.It is like cooking.Even
thow the recipe is the same, it's the little things that can make the differance.

Use good charcoal grind the powder really fine, & use good KNO-3.I make
faster powder with a sreened binder in mine then corned (pressed) powder.

Only problem is sreened powder takes up more volume per weight of corned.
So it is not that good for brass cartriges.But I weigh my powder & put in viles
instead of a powder measure.

PM me & lets talk.
Fly:bigsmyl2:

[Rojelio]

Fly, PM sent.

Roger

PS: what is the Glutch website?

[Rojelio]

I shot some of my homemade today. This batch was made with grapevine charcoal. My ff granulation was averaging 800fps and my fff granulation was averaging 840fps. This was in my 1851 navy 36 filling the chambers level full and crushing it down with a round ball and bore butter on top. Getting good accuracy, too. About 3" at 25 yds. Things are looking up[smilie=w:

I have another batch of pucks drying made with the components I bought from the pyro site. I have high hopes for that stuff.

Roger

[OverMax]

Rojelio: You and Fly got us all interested now. Now you have to keep us posted on how your new powder works out. I'm as well as a couple others are curious if you gain any speed with your new pyro chemicals verses your old. Look'en forward to rolling some myself. But only after this latest heat wave now holding this local in its grip clears out. Regards,

[Rojelio]

Rojelio: You and Fly got us all interested now. Now you have to keep us posted on how your new powder works out. I'm as well as a couple others are curious if you gain any speed with your new pyro chemicals verses your old. Look'en forward to rolling some myself. But only after this latest heat wave now holding this local in its grip clears out. Regards,

I hear ya. It's been hovering around 100* here lately. I've been holding off on making a new batch of charcoal out of black willow because of the heat.

I'll definately report back on my results.

Here's an interesting bit of reading on testing different woods for charcoal.

http://www.wichitabuggywhip.com/fireworks/charcoal_tests.html

[OverMax]

Rojelio: Reading that charcoal Link. I found that really interesting. Would be nice to have a balsa tree growing in the backyard. But I'll have to be satisfied with either Diamond willow or Black willow. As there both reasonably easy to find in this local. Only thing about Diamond willow is. "Having to deal with striping its bark." Would like to PM you about something I have a question on if you don't mind?


tom

[Rojelio]

Rojelio: Reading that charcoal Link. I found that really interesting. Would be nice to have a balsa tree growing in the backyard. But I'll have to be satisfied with either Diamond willow or Black willow. As there both reasonably easy to find in this local. Only thing about Diamond willow is. "Having to deal with striping its bark." Would like to PM you about something I have a question on if you don't mind?


tom

Sure, have at it.

Roger

[OverMax]

Sure, have at it.

Roger
PM sent

[waksupi]

Why is bark not good to use? I always have thick slabs of it around after splitting wood, and when burnt, it makes an interesting type charcoal, very porous. Isn't the charcoal a simple carrier?

[OverMax]

Why is bark not good to use? Isn't the charcoal a simple carrier? Good question. From what I've seen here and there on the net. All the wood about to cooked into charcoal appeared to be striped of its bark. Maybe bark because of its texture in charcoal form has a problem in absorbance. I really don't know the actual answer. Maybe someone else here can help you out with a more spot-on answer. I'm just a rookie at this business waksupi. lol

[Rojelio]

The charcoal is the fuel. Sulfur is fuel, too, but mainly used to lower the ignition temperature. The potassium nitrate is the oxidizer.

Roger

[waksupi]

The charcoal is the fuel. Sulfur is fuel, too, but mainly used to lower the ignition temperature. The potassium nitrate is the oxidizer.

Roger


You just rang a bell for me. I have done fire starting demonstrations for years, and the shelf fungus growing on birch trees charred is a favorite tinder, as it is very difficult to extinguish once lit. It will be a pain in the butt to collect as much as needed, but I am going to try it out this winter. It may be a supreme igniter.

[OverMax]

Made my first 1/2 lb.batch. Corned it lightly damped with Denatured Alcohol. The hardest thing about this whole venture was opening that darn ball rolling can because it is new yet. I see no down side to this venture. I can only get better at it. And while proceeding develop a plan of simple steps to follow. I am very pleased with my product. My T/C Hawken & PRB was happy with it too.