Difficult Gun Cleaning Session

[Shiloh]

Cleaned a stainless Security Six this weekend that was black from countless rounds fired. I had a particularly touch time cleaning the cutouts on the cyinder.

Normally, a soaking in Ed's Red will turn powder/lube residue into a sludge tha is easily wiped off after a few hours. This time, I resorted to 0000 steel woll for assistance. This stuff was like an anodyzing on the cyinder. What gives???


Shiloh

[popper]

Try dropping the cylinder in an US cleaner with Ed's Red. I add kroil to get under the sludge, don't use the acetone.

[Dan Cash]

Dont worry abut it. Black is beautiful don'tcha know.

[44man]

NO STEEL WOOL ON STAINLESS PLEASE!
Hoppe's on a brush and Butch's bore shine even better, it will wipe off carbon with a rag. Use an old toothbrush. Ed's Red is no better then Hoppe's, I would say the same because it does work but needs a brush.
A little brass brush is great too but no steel wool.
You can polish stainless with Scotch-Brite to look like new.

[Rattlesnake Charlie]

Generic aerosol carburetor cleaner from WalMart. It's meant to work on carbon, and it does. Works at removing leading too. Cheap and easy.

[Shiloh]

Generic aerosol carburetor cleaner from WalMart. It's meant to work on carbon, and it does. Works at removing leading too. Cheap and easy.

I should try that.
I chase the Ed's Red with non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner, and it won't touch it. I do have several types of scotch-brite though. Use that on the Stainless Mk II from time to time.

Shiloh

[44man]

Another good carbon cleaner is M-Pro 7, water based. I use a suede brush with it and rinse the gun under hot water. It will almost remove the rings on the cylinder front.
So far Butch's cuts carbon the fastest.

[Shiloh]

Another good carbon cleaner is M-Pro 7, water based. I use a suede brush with it and rinse the gun under hot water. It will almost remove the rings on the cylinder front. So far Butch's cuts carbon the fastest.

Geez!!

I been using Flitz for that. I put almost 300 rounds through that Security Six in two weeks. I get the most interesting patterns
develop on the front cylinder.

SHiloh

[popper]

I've tried MEK and other potent solvents, seems like it take mechanical action to break that stuff up. Like PP crud, solvent just makes it gooey and it doesn't come out.

[smokeywolf]

I use STP intake cleaner to remove carbon build-up on stainless. Scotch Brite can soften machined edges on stainless; be careful on that. Also, Scotch Brite will leave a brushed finish.

smokeywolf

[popper]

STP intake cleaner - is that the stuff that is MAPP and throttle bore safe? I always used coke cola for that and exhaust crossover valves.

[44man]

Geez!!

I been using Flitz for that. I put almost 300 rounds through that Security Six in two weeks. I get the most interesting patterns
develop on the front cylinder.

SHiloh
No need to get the rings off the cylinder front. One shot and it is back! [smilie=l:I just notice the rings are reduced and I never try to get them off. But M-Pro 7 will remove the carbon from the chambers and bore with almost no scrubbing. Soaking a little will take it out of the steel.
I use nothing with abrasives but a scratch on a stainless gun will come right off with Scotch-Brite.
A stainless gun can rust believe it or not. Steel wool can load the gun with particles you can't see and cause rust.
Flitz and JB Bore paste will cut steel. Even a cloth patch will wear steel.
Too much cleaning is worse then shooting.

[smokeywolf]

popper, I believe so. I bought it originally to clean around the intake butterfly on the wife's Yukon.

[Dframe]

I just use a tooth pick and a lead remover cloth. The wooden toothpick seem to be particularly effictive at digging out gunk and can not damage the metal.

[gray wolf]

I chase the black rings for a while, and now I understand that it's a senseless thing to do. Like 44 man said " one shot and there back. Eventually I believe you will egg shape the end of the cylinders if your to hard on them.
Remove the carbon best you can, some of the remaining marks are burn marks,
take them off and I think you are removing trace amounts of metal.

[Roosters]

Shiloh clean with Ed’s Red as always don’t worry with trying to get all the black off. Wipe down with dry cloth then pull off a pinch of Never Dull . The black will just wipe off. Then do what you normally do to store ,lightly oil or what ever. I have a Alaskan 44mag it even wipes off the face of the cylinder. Use it on all of my stainless guns best I ever saw. No soaking no waiting .:holysheep Wont hurt the finish it’s cotton. $5 to $7 dollars at any automotive store. You try that and you will be sold.. Here is a picture.


http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r600/threescrew3/neverdull.jpg

[Bad Water Bill]

A second for NEVER DULL.

I used many cans back in 1956 polishing F7U aircraft. Really shined up that aluminium.:smile:

I have used it continually ever since.

[clintsfolly]

You guy clean your guns???? My plate guns get wiped off with a rag as needed and detailed in the fall. My S&W67 has 900rds so far the year and I bought it end of June. Clint:brokenima

[Shiloh]

I talked to a lab gal and they said they use xylene as a paraffin solvent.
Of course probably has health side effects as well.
I have several options now. The NeverDull looks like something I need in the shop.
Thanks for the recommendations gentlmen.

Shiloh

[NHGrumpyGramps]

On stainless revolvers I have found that the Birchwood-Casey Lead Remover/Polishing Cloth will take the carbon deposits off with just a little rubbing and is not abrasive.

[44man]

On stainless revolvers I have found that the Birchwood-Casey Lead Remover/Polishing Cloth will take the carbon deposits off with just a little rubbing and is not abrasive.
They really are abrasive. Very, very fine but if you run them through a super clean bore the patches will be black---that is steel.
Even talc is abrasive.
They do no damage worth a worry. It is like rubbing compound on paint but you do not want to rub out your car every week.
There is nothing in the lead remover cloth that will dissolve lead.

[popper]

xylene, xylol, toluene, MEK, non-chlorine brake cleaner and others won't take most of that stuff off. Don't know what is in that throttle plate cleaner, it's not supposed to remove the special coating on GM throttle plates. I wonder if Kroil or spray furniture polish would keep it from sticking so well?

[44man]

xylene, xylol, toluene, MEK, non-chlorine brake cleaner and others won't take most of that stuff off. Don't know what is in that throttle plate cleaner, it's not supposed to remove the special coating on GM throttle plates. I wonder if Kroil or spray furniture polish would keep it from sticking so well?
I think you will find anything that evaporates too fast does the least.
Nothing will prevent buildup. It does little but make the gun look dirty anyway.
It is like your greasy BBQ, it still cooks steaks and you can spend a week cleaning it just to have it full of crud with the next BBQ. I hate to open the lid on mine but I bought stainless because cheap rusted out.

[texassako]

Cleaned a stainless Security Six this weekend that was black from countless rounds fired. I had a particularly touch time cleaning the cutouts on the cyinder.

Normally, a soaking in Ed's Red will turn powder/lube residue into a sludge tha is easily wiped off after a few hours. This time, I resorted to 0000 steel woll for assistance. This stuff was like an anodyzing on the cyinder. What gives???


Shiloh

Wow, that sounds like mine 2 weeks ago! Except I used brass wool. It was so caked on the cylinder gap was 0 on 2 chamber until I attacked it with one of those Birchwood Casey lead wipes. I think it was trying to disquise itself as a Mad Max prop.

[popper]

xylol is the retarded evaporation stuff. I was thinking along the lines of PAM on skillets with kroil or Pledge. Won't stop the buildup but might eliminate the need for scouring.