Lee pot only drips

[south.texas.dead.I]

Ive had a lee bottom pour pot for about a year now and it always seemed to have good flow with a little bit of adjusting here and there normally it would be to stop the drip now it is only dripping at most? I've sent the screw the fullest down and fullest up extremes and all in between as well as the two bolts that are on the handle and the rim of the pot but all I'm getting is drip.

[wallenba]

Are you saying that it won't pour, but only drips when you try to pour? Or that it drips constantly?

[south.texas.dead.I]

It wouldn't pour only drip. Idk what happened but it started pouring after about 10 mins of tinkering around.

[popper]

paper clip to clean out the junk. Flux better and use a putty knife to scrape the bottom and rod. Clean the junk out before pouring. Stir a lot to get the junk off the sides and bottom to rise to the top.

[Buckshot]

...............Ditto what popper suggested. Also, (I did this a long time ago but have altered it since) was to clamp a Vise Grip pliers on the top of the valve rod to add weight. I also used to lift the valve with my finger, and then set it back down into the closed position. This extra weight seemed to help.

Hopefully you're only using clean alloy ingots in your casting pot? Rendering the wild WW or other scrap lead in the pot used for filling moulds is a big no-no.

Dunno about the other bottom pour makes, but the Lee 20 lb pot has it's valve seat in a well at the bottom of the pot. The seat appears to be a kind of a rivited affair with a collar/rim that's maybe .010"-.015" above the floor of the pot itself. That isn't much elevation and even though everything else that might find it's way into the melt is suppsed to weight less then lead, (and float on top) dirt, crud and corruption WILL get trapped between the alloy and the floor and wall of the pot. It will without exception find it's way into the valve well, and can hold the valve stem open to cause a drip. The Vise Grip pliers was actually a bit too much of a good thing.

I ended up making a new valve rod out of 3/8" rod. I turned the upper end to .250" and threaded it 1/4-20. Threaded onto this is a 1" long piece of 3/4" OD brass with a setscrew. So the larger rod is heavier and there is also the brass piece. In addition to adding weight, the brass piece is what gets lifted against by the issue Lee valve lifter.

The brass piece threaded on the valve rod now allows me to regulate the flow of alloy. I can screw it up, or down on the valve rod and then lock it into position with the setscrew. Also, instead of lowering the wooden knob of the valve back down to the closed position, I now simply pull my finger out from under it and let the valve rod with the brass weight close suddenly on their own weight. In the past 5-6 years I've had an almost 'dripless existence' :-) with my 20lb Lee pot.

.................Buckshot

[Sasquatch-1]

A thin piece of wire and a flat head screw driver sit right next to my 10 pounder. I find that I have to turn the rod about every 15 to 20 molds full and clean the spout a couple of times per pot full. I am not very compulsive about how clean my alloy is, so I have to pay the price.

[500MAG]

I had the same problem. Went to the hardware store and got a small punch and bent the end. When the pot is hot, I ran it threw the bottom spout hole and end of problem. I keep it by the pot and run it thru as needed. My pot pour's great now and rarely drips.

http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad256/cagowans/0819120904.jpg

[captain-03]

I had the same problem. Went to the hardware store and got a small punch and bent the end. When the pot is hot, I ran it threw the bottom spout hole and end of problem. I keep it by the pot and run it thru as needed. My pot pour's great now and rarely drips.

Will give this a try!!

[Black Powder Bill]

Mine use to plug all the time so I drilled it out. No more plugging and the flow is great for filling large cavity moulds

[Sasquatch-1]

Will give this a try!!

Before you run out and spend money on something you don't need to, try a paperclip and a pair of pliers to hold it with. Will do the same thing

[Lizard333]

I second this. Cheap and easy. Works great. Clean ingots will help to prevent this. Let us know.

[slim1836]

I stripped 3" of insulation off a 6" long piece of 12 guage copper wire, bent a 1" 90 degree ell and use that to clean the spout using a pair of plyers. Not as sturdy as 500MAGs, but works well for me.

Slim

[docone31]

I wonder,
You do not put wheel weights in the pot and melt them?
That is a substantial source of slag which always goes directly to the spout.
Second, Crank up the heat! I run my 20lb at 9. Issue solved. Plus only clean alloy into the pot.
When I shut down, I spin the nozzle in the seat, scrape the bottom with a long blade screwdriver, just in case. I also leave it full of Kitty Litter. Works as a kinda of flux for me, and I can toss rejects on it and let the water evaporate before it gets melted. I done that for years not and it works well.
I did find, the nozzle screws loosen after a bit, but otherwise, it is pretty handy.
First time I used it was to pour an Hawken nose cap. It worked for that pretty well also.
Good luck.

[shotman]

The lee rod will tend to float with the pot full of lead .
Buck shot needs to set up and make a bunch and sell them . the 3/8s rod would not float

[500MAG]

I ended up making a new valve rod out of 3/8" rod. I turned the upper end to .250" and threaded it 1/4-20. Threaded onto this is a 1" long piece of 3/4" OD brass with a setscrew. So the larger rod is heavier and there is also the brass piece. In addition to adding weight, the brass piece is what gets lifted against by the issue Lee valve lifter.


Buckshot, would you consider making these for a price? I think with as many guys that have the Lee 20 lb you would be able to make some xtra cash. I'd even take a second one for my 10lb pot.
-Charles

[Any Cal.]

I have a few month old production pot that came with a steel handle for weight, no vise grips needed. I also drop the valve shut, which seems to help. I don't seem to have that many issues that I can't blame on junk in my alloy...

[trapper9260]

I do the same as was stated of usen a wire and it take care of the problem and I also keep flexing when I add alloy to the part and no matter how clean you will try to keep it clean you will have the problem of dripping.I use a wire myself to clean the hole after it is mealted and also clean it out after done casting .I use a cast pot for cleaning the lead I have and flex it alot to get all the dirty and junk out. and then put in igots and then use the igots for the pot .Just keep track of what the igots are .After you get use to seeing how the problems start you will not have as much problems after and able to do what you need to .Hope this will help .

[mold maker]

Just remember to NEVER leave a heating pot unattended, no matter the brand, or how clean you think the alloy is.
Lead, and its alloys can stick to the valve rod and float when the lead next to the pot wall starts to melt. That lifts the rod and produces a flood.
For that matter don't leave any hot pot, without your close attention. It's a disaster waiting to happen.

[zxcvbob]

Lead, and its alloys can stick to the valve rod and float when the lead next to the pot wall starts to melt. That lifts the rod and produces a flood...

or a little modern art sculpture.

[Sasquatch-1]

Just remember to NEVER leave a heating pot unattended, no matter the brand, or how clean you think the alloy is.
Lead, and its alloys can stick to the valve rod and float when the lead next to the pot wall starts to melt. That lifts the rod and produces a flood.
For that matter don't leave any hot pot, without your close attention. It's a disaster waiting to happen.

I know that aluminum is not good for melting in. But an old aluminum cake pan under your pot should catch most of the meltedx lead if disaster strikes.

[bulet shotter]

Jus lightly tap on the top of the valve rod with your spoon ,just lightly It will stop. AND every time you are done casting and everything is cooled down. Clean out your pot,yes clean it. You wont believe how much crud is in the bottom. I have a bit driver on my cast table,just to take the valve rod out. Do this and you won't have a problem. And buy the way ,you will get a little drip. Nothing to worry about ,just clean the drip off before you pour. I put the die right up against the nipple,when held right,this works great. Jerry

[Greg B.]

I use some old dental picks for unclogging my RCBS bottom pour.

[1874Sharps]

I use a bent coat hanger to clear the bottom of my Lee pot.