457122 lyman

[bigted]

always wanted to get this mould and finally landed one and now before i cast the first boolit i have a desire to change it rite away.

id like to do something to do away with the hollow point aspect. i dont want a hollow point boolit and i knew this when i ordered the mould...however i think i can make it a solid with some yankee ingenuity...with the help of others that have been here first.

anybody wanna weigh in on how they made this little dandy into a solid boolit?

and yes i intentionally ordered this mould knowing that it was and is a hollowpoint boolit...my thinking was and is that while i dont like the hollowpoint aspect i do like the reputation and looks of this little dandy boolit...and that the reputation is very good for the mould/boolit.

thanks in advance for the answers.

[H.Callahan]

Cut and finish the HP pin to be flush with the nose? Or were you looking for something else entirely?

[bigted]

i would prefer to not have to dink with the pin at all but i will do that exact thing at first. was wondering about filling the channel in each half with something like permabond or liquid weld but dont know if it will withstand the mould heat or get sticky when hot and adhere to the other half...maybe silver solder? dont want to heat the mould so much to warp it with welding.

[H.Callahan]

Cramer it with a flat nose pin, maybe? Or maybe permanently attach your modified pin with a strap (think NOE's RG system only with a permanently capped pin)? I imagine one could fill the grooves by welding and then machine everything. I don't think you are going to find a filler material that you are going to be able to squirt in, garden and have it stand up to the heat. (I was wrong one other time, though....)

Of course the easy way would be to contact Erik at Hollowpoint Molds and have him attach a permanent solid point pin.... But that would be cheating, right?

[Chill Wills]

Ted, for what it is worth and likely won't change what you will do, ....Lyman made a non- HP version of this "AC Gould" HP bullet. I do not have my chart near but it was something like 457 123 or maybe 456 192. Someone will chime in and correct this. It comes up on evil-bay sometimes.

I have made them by accident by not putting the pin in and casting a bullet with a long lead pin coming out the nose.

[runfiverun]

j-b weld it.

[45 2.1]

As with any HP mold with smaller pins.......... cast without the pin and nip the long spud off with cutters.

[btroj]

I have down that before. The lead will quickly harden in the empty hole allowing you to cast a solid. Cutting off the long nose extension is simple.

Is mod is also not permanent.

[bigted]

rite on...thanks for all the suggestions...i had never considered just casting with the pin removed so before i go to headacke city ill give that a try. reasson i wanted this boolit is the history and accuracy acounts for it.

thanks again for all the comments.

[BoxC]

I have that same mold, got tired of messing with the hollow point. I read of a easy solution to the problem that works well for me. Get some nickle plated BBs and drop one in just before pouring in the lead. I shoot this in my Browning 1885 45-70 and can tell no difference in accuracy.

[Tim357]

I have that same mold, got tired of messing with the hollow point. I read of a easy solution to the problem that works well for me. Get some nickle plated BBs and drop one in just before pouring in the lead. I shoot this in my Browning 1885 45-70 and can tell no difference in accuracy.

Yep, Skeeter Skelton wrote of doing the very same with a Lyman 358156 HP mould..

[bigted]

very cool...come to think on it Paul Mathews releyed the same trick...just forgot about that...looks like a couple easy fix's before making a complicated solution.

[beagle]

Takes a little machining and accessto machine tools but, yes, it works very well.

Take a round flat disk....a large washer works very well. Drill and tap for a machine screw larger than the HP pin. Turn the threads off the screw to the diameter of the HP pin except for the portion that goes through the washer. Screw the modified screw through the washer. Cut the end of teh screw off flush with the nose of the bullet cavity. Drill a slightly elongated hole in the washer where the handle attaching screw goes in the bottom of the mould. Get a longer 8-32 cap socket head screw from the local hardware and attach the washer where the handle attached. This makes a temporary "plug" for the HP cavity. Slightly bevel the leading edge of the washer so that the mould closes without hanging up on the other mould half. One fitted and tweaked it casts just like ant single cavity mould and you can go back to the HP mode at any time with the removal of the handle ataching screw. It produces essentualy a 457192 design.

I have several HP mould done this way and it works well./beagle

[Shooter]

+1 on what Beagle said. I just used a rod the same diameter as the HP stem and MIG welded it in place in the washer. The HP stem was held in place by a screw an washer on my mold, so attachment was even simpler.
I left the rod proud of the bottom of the cavity and radiused it for a cup point. I don't know if it does any good, but it looks cool.

[Coffeecup]

I'm in the "drop in a BB" camp, BUT I never used these in a lever action.

[bigted]

beagle...that sounds like the home job i was looking for. thanks for sharing it and ill def try it and....... yes shooter...my mould has the same tapped hole where the screw holds the washer in place so this is going to be a fairly easy 'fix'

thanks for all the suggestions all.