MP mold casting error

[Shuz]

When you hear what I did, you'll think I'm a newbie to the silver stream gang!
I was casting away the other day with a 429421HP4C that is affectionately known as "the mould from Hell". I don't have to worry about sprue size and spillover because the heavy hollow pin plate fits from the bottom. Well, I figgered I might as well utilize my MP 503 clone hp mould and cast the two moulds in tandem as I've done many times before. The problem is, I got careless and allowed molten lead to spill over onto the Cramer style pins. They froze and I could't get the lead off the pins. Whilst having a brain phart, I decided to dip the brass mould into the melt, like I've done many times with Lee moulds. After a short time all the lead just drops off the Lee moulds. With the MP brass mould, all I got was a yellow mould with a blob of lead covered with kitty litter! I finally got most of the lead off and was able to return the mould to production, but now the mould has this ickey looking crud all over it, and a few alloy flecks inside the mould vent lines! The question is.......how is the best and safest way to remove same and restore the finnish to the mould and sprue plate?
The next question... should this happen again, what is the "approved" method of removing the alloy from the Cramer style pins?

[jethunter]

I've spilled lead over the pins many times. Sometimes I have been able to just pluck the lead out from the side using needle nose pliers, but don't pull too hard or you might bend the pins. For stuff that doesn't come easily I remove the retainer clip and use the nn pliers to pull it off from the top. There's less chance of bending a pin if you pull the lead off from the top of the pin than if you are trying to pull it out from the side. It's easier too if the lead is still soft so do it asap while it's still hot.

I have adjusted the way I use the cramer style moulds so I don't spill lead on the pins nearly as often. I have turned the mould around in the handles so that the pins are on the left side, and I ladle from the right and hold the mould tilted slightly to the right side. I don't spill on them nearly as often as I used to.

[Springfield]

It doesn't matter what the mould looks like as long as it casts properly. Every mould will change color eventually with use, that is to be expected. You should see some of mine that have done bullets in the tens of thousands!

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

The next question... should this happen again, what is the "approved" method of removing the alloy from the Cramer style pins?

Sometimes is will easily pull off with a needle nose plier if the mold is up to temp.
otherwise, I've used a small butane torch.
Jon

[Shuz]

I couldn't pull the alloy off the top or sides of the pins after it first happened......that's why I resorted to the more drastic method of dipping the mould in the alloy.
What's the best way to remove the gook off of the mould?
Could I have warped this fine brass mould by inserting it into the 750-775 degree melt?

[paul h]

Careful application of a propane torch can be used to melt blobs of lead where you don't want them.

I've dipped my MP mold in the melt to bring it up to temp and didn't have a problem with the mold warping.

As to cleaning up a mold, I find that the mildest 3m abrasive pads work pretty slick.

http://a248.e.akamai.net/f/248/21700/1d/content.westmarine.com/images/catalog/full/431041.jpg

[quasi]

I find a troughed sprue plate helps prevent "run overs"