Half cock on New Model w/stock hammer?

[tek4260]

Does the trigger "ride" the hammer enough on a New Model to simply file in a half cock notch? I know on OM's the bottom of the hammer is round and contains all the notches, and on a New Model it ends after the sear notch. Just curious before I go welding the face of one of my Super hammers. I don't have one disassembled at the moment to lay the trigger and hammer on the outside to see the relation. Thanks!

[jblee10]

I never thought of doing this, but my first thought would be "no". Have a look at the Power Custom hammer and trigger. It has a half cock notch. The hammer has more meat in the half cock area. Also, the trigger has a much thinner sear to allow it to fall into the half cock notch. I wouldn't trust a ruger trigger to be ground that thin, at least without some different heat treating.

[44man]

Clearing a half cock depends on trigger spring tension and the trigger being pulled back as you fire.
Yes triggers must be thin to fit the notch too. Does not hurt unless it falls into the half cock.
I am a little stupid so I have to ask WHY? Is it for the sound? You double the work to get a fine trigger.

[tek4260]

Clearing a half cock depends on trigger spring tension and the trigger being pulled back as you fire.
Yes triggers must be thin to fit the notch too. Does not hurt unless it falls into the half cock.
I am a little stupid so I have to ask WHY? Is it for the sound? You double the work to get a fine trigger.

Going to weld up the face(second step) of a hammer to remove the transfer bar for a better trigger.

[tek4260]

And because I like to piddle with my single actions as much as I like to shoot them! :)

[44man]

Ah, OK, you want a colt action. I have always liked the feel but they get too spooky when deer hunting. Some of those crazy things will feed close while I break branches out of the way of my stand.
I used to carry in a stand with a chain binder but there were always deer I spooked at my stand site. I started walking in banging the chain on the stand and would bang it all the while I set it in the tree. I got the bow up fast and got quiet. Less then 10 minutes to arrow a buck when he came to see what the racket was.
But the tiny click from a Ruger would drive them nuts. Even the cylinder stop hitting the cylinder would alert them.
Still, the transfer bar Ruger can have the best trigger. I remove the creep and polish. Then if the transfer bar is too short I will make a new one to cover the pin higher to allow a very light trigger spring. Add an over power hammer spring and all of my Rugers and BFR's have 19 to 20 oz triggers. My Vaquero is 20 oz.
I use 26# hammer springs.
Anyway, deer hunting is why I stay away from more clicks.
But CA---YEAH, sounds and feels great.

[tek4260]

The half cock position I want isn't really a half cock. It is just to hold the hammer far enough back to let the firing pin retract so I can load without the firing pin hitting the rims and prevent the cylinder from rotating.

[44man]

The half cock position I want isn't really a half cock. It is just to hold the hammer far enough back to let the firing pin retract so I can load without the firing pin hitting the rims and prevent the cylinder from rotating.
Good idea. Let me know how it works out.

[canyon-ghost]

I'm sitting way back thinking, "wow, interesting thread". Seems you guys know quite a bit about single actions and what you want from them. I'd kinda like to see you elaborate on some of this.

Ron

[tek4260]

So I had the bright idea of drilling and tapping the hammer face to install a screw rather than welding, with the idea that if I didn't like it I could still use the hammer with a transfer bar. I have some 6x48 base screws that have tall heads and I could file it down to the proper thickness. Well that cost me 2 new #32 bits. Seems the hammer is HARD!

[44man]

So I had the bright idea of drilling and tapping the hammer face to install a screw rather than welding, with the idea that if I didn't like it I could still use the hammer with a transfer bar. I have some 6x48 base screws that have tall heads and I could file it down to the proper thickness. Well that cost me 2 new #32 bits. Seems the hammer is HARD!
YES SIR, I thought about a screw to reduce creep but no way to tap it even if carbide drills are used for the hole. I do not want to fool with the temper they put on them. Stainless is worse, hard to do at home.

[subsonic]

Solution: Longer custom base-pin with two places for the plunger to catch. Some of the imported colt clones had a safety that worked like that.

[44man]

The half cock position I want isn't really a half cock. It is just to hold the hammer far enough back to let the firing pin retract so I can load without the firing pin hitting the rims and prevent the cylinder from rotating.
Needed if you remove the transfer bar. But the transfer bar has zero affect on trigger pull to start with, something I would never remove because I like a full cylinder for hunting even if I only need one shot. I never carry extra rounds, just what is in the cylinder.
One thought is with heavy hunting loads a case head under the loading gate is easier on it. I never harmed one but have heard of gate damage that I can not prove, maybe an old wives tale to start with. I have shot too many with one round in the cylinder to say a gate can be damaged. Most of my shooting is 5 rounds in a 6 shot cylinder to keep shot rounds even in the box. Anyway, junk science!
But I believe the transfer bar Ruger system is the best thing ever devised for the SA. It is 100% safe unless you pull the trigger. It has nothing to do with trigger pull until you get so light it can drop from trigger kick.
My Ruger's and BFR's have triggers better then S&W or at least the equal.
Sasquatch-1 tried my triggers, ask him.

[tek4260]

Needed if you remove the transfer bar. But the transfer bar has zero affect on trigger pull to start with, something I would never remove because I like a full cylinder for hunting even if I only need one shot. I never carry extra rounds, just what is in the cylinder.
One thought is with heavy hunting loads a case head under the loading gate is easier on it. I never harmed one but have heard of gate damage that I can not prove, maybe an old wives tale to start with. I have shot too many with one round in the cylinder to say a gate can be damaged. Most of my shooting is 5 rounds in a 6 shot cylinder to keep shot rounds even in the box. Anyway, junk science!
But I believe the transfer bar Ruger system is the best thing ever devised for the SA. It is 100% safe unless you pull the trigger. It has nothing to do with trigger pull until you get so light it can drop from trigger kick.
My Ruger's and BFR's have triggers better then S&W or at least the equal.
Sasquatch-1 tried my triggers, ask him.

So lifting that transfer bar has no effect? I know it is splitting hairs as most who feel mine say that they are already unsafe. Too many years shooting Anschutz 54's have me spoiled to triggers measured in single digit ounces.

As far as the loading gate, I hadn't considered that in this case. I knew it wasn't good on the gate to single load them from what I have read. I suppose the enclosed case heads prevents that issue on OM's.

I would have welded one up Sunday but had to do some wiring at the inlaws. In the end it will be something different to play with and I can easily switch it back if need be.

[44man]

So lifting that transfer bar has no effect? I know it is splitting hairs as most who feel mine say that they are already unsafe. Too many years shooting Anschutz 54's have me spoiled to triggers measured in single digit ounces.

As far as the loading gate, I hadn't considered that in this case. I knew it wasn't good on the gate to single load them from what I have read. I suppose the enclosed case heads prevents that issue on OM's.

I would have welded one up Sunday but had to do some wiring at the inlaws. In the end it will be something different to play with and I can easily switch it back if need be.
Lifting the bar has no affect at all. Mine DROP with the light triggers so I made longer ones so they did not drop off the pin. Each transfer bar is a shade different in length so some guns work without a change. Cock the gun and see where the top of the bar is on the pin. If it is less then half way, do not lighten the trigger spring too much. You want the bar to move up when you pull the trigger. Many are good so you can go to 1-1/2#. Others need 2# to 4# on the trigger.
The trigger spring is the control.
This is my .44 transfer bar.
You can go so light you can push the hammer with your thumb to drop. Don't go there. The SA has limits.

[FergusonTO35]

If you ever sell the gun I would advise you to first put it back to 100% unmodified factory parts.

[44man]

If you ever sell the gun I would advise you to first put it back to 100% unmodified factory parts.
No need, just make the trigger spring stronger to increase pull. The bar has no affect because it is set to miss the upper lug on the hammer. In other words I can pull the trigger hard and fast and the bar will not interfere with the hammer. The gun will fire no matter how I pull the trigger.
This is all taken into consideration and tested. The bar is 100% safe. It is what Ruger should make.
With the hammer down, the bar should not run into the hammer lug.

[FergusonTO35]

Ok, I didn't know that. I guess I was misunderstanding you to mean you were pretty much converting a New Model to an Old Model.

[44man]

Ok, I didn't know that. I guess I was misunderstanding you to mean you were pretty much converting a New Model to an Old Model.
No, I love the transfer bar system. I hunt and just carry a cylinder full, nothing else.
I had the original flat top and a round should never be under the hammer. Still OK because 5 shots were never used for hunting anyway.
Just be safe.
Only once did I take 2 shots. I heart shot a buck but neither of us knew he was dead. I hit him again as he flew past. Both shots were fatal and I did not need the second.

[tek4260]

Well after a bit of tinkering, I've decided not to do this mod. With the stock hammer, my "half cock" will have to be a bit too far back for my tastes. The trigger doesn't "ride" the hammer like I had hoped it did.

[Whiterabbit]

maybe modify a power custom hammer?

[44man]

You can still make a decent trigger.
The thing about the gate is folly because the Colt, Freedom and original 3 screw had to have an empty chamber. Millions of rounds fired with no shell under a gate. I have done a few hundred thousand myself and I am talking max recoil. Don't worry about it.