Patch Paper

[Beekeeper]

Remember reading it somewhere, some paper should not be used for patching as it contained clay.
Don't remember where but think it was Molly or Felix that wrote about it.


Reason for asking.
Got a stock yearly report in the mail yesterday.
Trying to read it but all I could think about was "this paper , being so thin, would make great patches"
it is like onion skin .0025 thick and the patch I tried stays put and draws tight.
If it is good to go and use I just got a lifetime supply of patch paper in the mail for free.

I just knew buying that stock was a good deal.
Ain't payed a nickel in dividend but maybe I got a lot of paper patch material.


beekeeper

[Don McDowell]

There's a sticky up at the top of this section called Paper 101.
But for the most part I don't think I'ld worry much about your paper, if it works for you great, if not at least you're not out much.

[catboat]

I agree with Don (above post). Try it. If it works well for you, then you are good to go with a lifetime of paper patch material.

Paper contains various inorganic fillers ( ie various clays, calcium carbonate, and titanium dioxide depending on the chemistry). These inorganic fillers are added to provide improved opacity of the paper, particularly as the basis weight of the paper gets lighter.

The filler (or ash content) can run from 12% to 25% of the total weight of the paper. There is some degree of abrasion to metal (the bore/rifling), but it is more of a "polish." Who knows, it may actually smooth out a slightly rough bore, or tight spot after 100's or 1000's of rounds and improved accuracy (and ease of bore cleaning). The edge of the rifling will likely be less sharp over time, but it is certainly gradual.

I say, give it go for 500 rounds or so, and record your own observations (accuracy, bore smoothness, brightness etc). If ok, then keep using it.

[Beekeeper]

Is there a way a non chemist like me can tell as to the content of a paper?
Soaking it or maybe a cheap chemical test?

When have time am going to test this paper but am always like to know about maybe how it is made

beekeeper

[Texantothecore]

One of the guys on the board uses greenbar for his paper patching. I didn't know that they still made it.

So anything that works.

[windrider919]

The only paper I never got to shoot well was glossy magazine paper...later I found it is full of clays and a 'wax', it just would not shred off the bullet at the muzzle right... and it showed in the accuracy.

Somehow, my 'common sense' tells me that it would take many, many thousands of rounds to really damage a barrel just from paper additives. Look how long barrels last shooting gilding metal jackets...by comparison, PP is mild on a bore.

besides which, PP seems to 'condition' a barrel to shoot better, at least in MY experience!

[Lead pot]

Give it the drop of water test.
Put a drop on the paper and see how fast it soaks through. The less the clay content the faster it soaks through, like a ink blotter if you know what that is :grin:

[Don1955]

I learn taking a tour of a paper factory that the shiney paper has clay added.
Stay away from the shiney paper

[1874Sharps]

Many different papers have been used successfully by various shooters here and elsewhere. The key to it, I think, is choosing a paper with strong fibers. That is why papers like Vellum and 100% or 25% cotton have become the "go to" or standard papers for me. That is not to say those are the only ones by any means, just that they seem to work well for PP applications. It is true that certain additives will cause various levels of abrasion. Quite honestly, I agree with others that this will not be a problem. But, if the barrel lasts for 10,000 shots instead of 15,000 shots then that is OK with me.

[Lead pot]

10,000 or 15, 000 rounds is only three years or less shooting time. :D

Vellum paper would be the paper I would use if I couldn't find anything else. It's to hard and it does not release consistently.

[Yellowhouse]

Them ole dead guys likely had a real hard time of keeping that fine particle Great Plains dust out of their paper and their loads. Itd likely eat a barrel up in a short while under hard use and especially when combined with the use of a wood ramrod literally impregnated with the stuff. That dirts also hard on a modern day auto engine if the air filter gasket isn't seated securely.

[Lead pot]

Yellowhouse

Several of my rifles I shoot often have the washboard reamer marks that were ironed down when the button was pulled through that you cant see anymore. The bore looks like a cut rifling that has been lapped and the throat is showing wear signs but the lands are still as sharp as they were before a bullet traveled down the bore and the they are shooting just as good after 20 some thousand rounds as they did when they were new.
Almost all of the PP bullets that went through the bore were 100%, 75%, And 25% cotton plus some using 100% cotton Vellum paper.
The average shooter will not wear out a barrel shooting a PP bullet, they will ruin a barrel cleaning or wiping between shots fired before the patched bullets will.

[Yellowhouse]

Yellowhouse

he average shooter will not wear out a barrel shooting a PP bullet, they will ruin a barrel cleaning or wiping between shots fired before the patched bullets will.

Yepper!!!!!

[pdawg_shooter]

For years I have heard of paper wearing the bore. It usually goes something like this... Take a sharp knife and start cutting paper and see how fast it dulls it. OK do that and count the cuts. Now resharpen that same knife and see how many jacketed bullets you can cut in two. I dont think anyone could live long enough to shoot out a barrel with paper. BTW, I am the guy hooked on green bar printer paper. It works as well as any and better than most I have tried over the last 40+ years. Besides, I get it free, for now anyway.

[Lead pot]

I have some of that old fan fold paper left in green bar and white, but I think it's a little thick at .0031".
I use it now and then if I want to patch some to groove diameter to breach seat at full bore or deep seat the .50 to reduce the powder load.
A friend patches with good results using the thick paper with good results but I dont get it to work consistently for me. I get to many fliers using it.