.375 Big Bore 94 problem

[GL49]

I recently purchased a Winchester Big Bore 94 in .375 Winchester, and have a slight problem (maybe) with the action. When cycling it empty and the lever is fully open, it tends to "stick" at the fully open position when trying to close it. If, when it opens, I don't allow the bottom plate to drop to it's fully lowered position, it cycles like glass. No stick, super smooth. Is there something inside the mechanism that is supposed to hold the bottom plate partially up, or at least put some kind of support or tension on it? It appears almost new, I don't believe it has been fired much at all. Do they smooth out over time? Anybody else have this problem or know of this? I have brass, dies, but no boolits at this time to load anything, I'm waiting for a mould. Will it cycle differently at all when it is loading cartridges? It never jams open, but it takes a firm tug on the lever to close it, unless I don't let the bottom plate drop all the way down. I've got three other 94's, and three 92's, but this is my first big bore. :confused:

[AnthonyB]

I'll give the glib answer of sell it to me first. Second, take it down and lube, then cycle it like you mean it. Problem should go away....
Tony

[GL49]

I was hoping someone would say that. This rifle is almost too pretty to be packed in the woods deer hunting or spend a few days in deer camp. I think I'll have to put a good western movie on TV and drive the family nuts while I cycle the action and root for the good guys. I'm just afraid my wife will say "When did you get that one?"

[leftiye]

You can put lapping compound on the parts to help things along. Use something like JB compound or other fine grit abrasive, and don't cycle it too vigorously or it might do more than you want. You can also polish the spots that obviously are wear points with some rubber abrasive heads (Cratex) on a Dremel tool, then lap.

[AnthonyB]

So, I take it selling it to me isn't on your list of things to try?
Tony

[GL49]

AnthonyB
Ya gotta at least let me shoot it first. And buy more moulds, powder, primers, cast a couple thousand boolits, find another good buy on brass, get a case trimmer pilot, bullet puller collet, new soft case to carry it in, make up a couple hundred pounds of alloy, conversion kit for my dillon, etc. etc. etc.
When all my money is spent, then I'll have to sell it :bigsmyl2:

[AnthonyB]

Well, I'm just looking to save you all that trouble and money. It will work out better if you sell now....
Tony

[runfiverun]

375449 all you need for it. [i size to 379]
i'd clean it.
it should schlick/click up and click/schlick down.
mines still a little hesitant on the up and down,but is smoothing up, and don't rattle like my marlin 375 does..............yet.

[winny375]

Hi GL49,

AnthonyB has the right answer. I owned a .375 back in the day when Winchester was still in business in New Haven. My brother was an accountant for Olin and was able to get Winchesters at just about cost. I think I paid about $130 so I bought two and one 30-30 for another friend plus a semi-automatic shotgun and that was under two hundred. I could kick myself for not buying the "holy grail" that came out at the time I bought my Winchesters which was the John Wayne commemorative. This was in the late 70's. The awesome thing was that I had to go to the factory to pick them up in New Haven. My friend who got the other .375 came with me. When we walked through the doors it was like stepping back in time. I expected a modern factory but it was like when it was built in the early part of the 1900's. What a feeling. Well I got my rifles and shotgun and went home. It was truly an experience. Back to you question. That model had that problem but not that anything need to be changed out. Like Anthony said you had to work that lever. My friends rifle had that happen and we brought it back to the factory. We're at the counter and the gunsmith comes out from the back room. This guy looked like an old west gunsmith, leather faced, hands that looked like they've been in gun powder residue and grease. He takes us back to the repair room, circa 1900 and takes the rifle loads it seven rounds, cocks it and then sticks it up to a hole in the wall and bam, bam bam, until empty looks at my friend and just say's nothings wrong. Does a little bit of oiling to make it look like we weren't idiots, cleans it up and that was it. I sold mine in the early 80's for a couple hundred. To this day I wish I would have kept it. I'd say anything over $700 by a private seller or gun store is pricey. As someone mentioned shooting at the cartridges max and depending on the load you can hit your target 200 yards away with no sight. I think that takes a side mounted scope anyway. Personally, a scope takes away that feeing of a brush busting rifle.

Ps I may be off a few dollars and or dates, it was a long time ago.