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Whistler
07-28-2012, 05:55 PM
I'm pretty new to swaging (ok, two days old as a matter of fact), so please bear with me.

When I annealed my first cases for making .40 out of 9mm I tried glowing them with a small propane torch (worked like a charm, but took time), dipping them in molten lead and heating them on my stove. When I tried to swage a few with a core out of WW alloy I realized the alloy was heat treated (water quenched), so in order to remove the hardening I used the propane torch to heat the case so the core melted. Voila, it was soft again and swaging was easy on both the press and my arm.

But to the point. When I dug some bullets out of the berm I found that the ones that were cold swaged had expanded fine but had lost the core. The ones that had had the core melted to remove the hardening (annealed if you will) had the core bonded to the jacket.

Core bonded jacketed bullets jag my memory for two reasons; hunting bullets and bench rest bullets just below solid copper projectiles.

Some people complain of poor accuracy with "one step" swaged bullets, but wouldn't it be easy to anneal the brass and bond the core at the same time? The lead melts at 550 degrees fahrenheit I believe, and isn't that pretty much the temperature we want when annealing? Ease of production and excellence of performance all at once.

But of course I am new in this part of the forum, so please educate me if I'm missing something here.

Recovered from my berm today:
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/6186/20120728155431.jpg

Wolftracker
07-28-2012, 09:50 PM
Yes whistler,
This looks like a good idea to me, one I'd intended to try but haven't gotten around to yet. I've been making .452 and .451 bullets with 40 S&W cases in Corbin S dies but haven't really gotten great accuracy yet. Possibly, it's the load I'm using . How were they for accuracy?

ReloaderFred
07-28-2012, 10:31 PM
I anneal my cases for jackets with the cores in place, and this does bond the core to the jacket. Mine is done in a ceramics kiln and I stack them on stainless steel trays. I run them pretty hot (1150 degrees F) and then turn the kiln off and let them cook overnight. http://s1134.photobucket.com/albums/m606/ReloaderFred/Annealing%20Jackets/

I can do a batch of around 900 bullets by stacking two trays in the kiln. This process bonds the cores to the jackets without the addition of any flux. The only way to get the core out of the jacket is to melt it out.

Hope this helps.

Fred

Whistler
07-29-2012, 03:20 AM
Different headstamps, no sorting.
12.0gn Norma R-123 in 10mm Auto, OAL was 1.260"
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/8084/20120728144457.jpg


Only G.F.L based jackets, weight sorted with spread 0.2gn between lightest and heaviest.
12.0gn Norma R-123 in 10mm Auto, OAL was 1.260"
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/7586/20120728144508.jpg

Have yet to test core bonded differences, but will add it to the list.
The rest will probably be fixed with some load development (in/decrease powder charge).

Both were shot rested at 25 meters (27 yards) with a Glock 21 with IGB 10mm Auto after market barrel.

Whistler
07-29-2012, 08:13 PM
After pushing the core in with the expander tool:
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/2193/20120729100724.jpg

I annealed the cases with a propane torch until the core had melted. There is a small yellow flame because the core I used was tumble lubed with wax (I had to use cores meant to be boolits originally):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ohrm2n5uTfg

Load testing ladder with 11.8, 12.0 och 12.2gn Norma R-123.
Earlier tests above were with 12.0gn only.

The jackets were made of G.F.L cases only, but were not sorted by weight or length.

So far I have yet to see any difference worth the time and effort in weight sorting, core bonding or anything other than traditional load development. If shooting at longer ranges like 50y or 100y, then perhaps both weight sorting and bonding might be worth it. At 25y it is not.

Each group was five shots.
I find the constant flier in every group remarkable.

http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/1534/20120729213220.jpg

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/2626/20120729213142.jpg

http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/4610/20120729213127.jpg

Sasquatch-1
07-30-2012, 07:51 AM
Whistler,
That can not be good for your press. Even just doing one or two.

Whistler
07-30-2012, 09:18 AM
Sasquatch: How do you mean? I follow the instructions that came with the BT Sniper die. Melting the core would mean it takes less force in the press than by the regular one-step seating like in the instructions.

Sasquatch-1
07-30-2012, 11:35 AM
Sasquatch: How do you mean? I follow the instructions that came with the BT Sniper die. Melting the core would mean it takes less force in the press than by the regular one-step seating like in the instructions.

Im talking about annealing the bullet setting on the press. I am sure you only did it for the video, but I would think it would start affecting the paint.

I anneal some of my cases in a similar fashion. I have an old ingot mold that looks like it could be used for the long narrow decoy anchors. I can set up to 14 pieces of brass on it and just go down the row. I also have this setting on a wire basket to keep the heat away from the wood top bench.

Whistler
07-30-2012, 11:43 AM
Oh, right. Yeah, that was only one case for the video, I hold the brass in pliers otherwise.