Best drum type powder measure?

[FergusonTO35]

I've decided that the Lee Perfect Powder measure just isn't what I want and am looking to upgrade. It functions as designed and is a great value but its just not for me. Some appealing ones that are available locally are the RCBS Uniflow and Redding 3BR (I think thats the model number). The Uniflow is like $66.00 and the 3BR is almost twice that. Here are my questions:

Do any of these have known problem areas? Am I going to have to buy a stupid expensive stand to go with either one?

Which would be best for loading small charges for .32 caliber handguns? I mostly use Bullseye, Titegroup, and Accurate #2.

Which would be best for loading medium size charges for .38 Special and 9mm? I mostly use Accurate #5.

Which is the best for rifle charges in .257 Roberts and .30 WCF? I mostly use Hodgdon Varget, 4895, and Accurate 5744.

Will I have to buy accessories beyond the measure to use it with the cartridges listed above?

Thanks!

[cheese1566]

I like my Uniflows and two old style Hornady measures (pre-LockNLoad).
I reload extensively for 38/9mm/45 and my drops of WIN231 are right on the money. I load from 3.8 grains to 4.6 depending on the caliber.
They love ball powder.

[BoolitSchuuter]

I have the Hornady and three Lyman #55s. I like them both though I think the Lyman is a little more consistent with stick powders. For pistol powders like Blue dot, I prefer the Lee auto disk powder measures.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

I can respond to the first part of your post in saying that the RCBS and Redding measures are well made and do a good job. Go on line and check out what these measures are being sold for by Midway, Midsouth, Graf etc., before committing yourself locally unless the local deal is really something special. You don't need to buy a stand for the measure to work right; you can easily build one out of simple materials. As to whether the Redding BR is worth twice the price of the Uniflow...I'll leave that to the owners of the Redding to say, as I don't have one. I have used the RCBS measures, shot Bullseye Comp for many years and have done reasonably well. Because of variations in powder lots, humidity, etc, even the best measure has to be backed up by a good scale, so think about that as well. As for your good questions on the calibers that you mention, there are many, many answers; search info on this forum is extensive as is the data and suggestions that will come from other members who respond. The only accessory you might want to consider for a measure is what is known as a "baffle". It is not expensive; you can also make one out of some scrap foil using a pair of tinsnips. It contributes to the accuracy of the measure when used. LLS

[Longwood]

I like my RCBS measures just fine. I also have a Lyman but it is no better or worse in my opinion.
I have two RCBS measures set up with Hornady case operated attachments because they are so much cheaper than RCBS.
I hopefully will have another Hornady attachment modified for the Little Dandy by tomorrow.
Then my Loadmaster will be able to load light loads with a Cream-of-Wheat filler or a small primer charge.

PS
A cheap single stage press sells for less that some/most measure stands.
Remove one bolt and the handle falls down out of the way. Remove the slide and it can be mounted on a board or wherever.

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks guys. How about the Lyman 55? Is the three slide adjustment system really as big a pain as some people say it is, or is it an advantage? 95% of my reloading is for pistols so which of these would be the best for that? Do any of them perform well with tiny .32 Auto charges such as 2 grains of Bullseye?

[Mk42gunner]

I have a Uniflow that only has the large drum. So far it has done everything I have asked of it, from 4.0 grains of 231 on up.

I haven't used it for measuring minute amounts of powder for the .32 S&W Long because I don't have enough cases to bother with it. If I were to get a few hundred cases ready to load at one time, I think the small drum would be a good idea. But like I said, the large drum has done everything I needed it to do.

Robert

[Bullfrog]

Lyman 55 is top notch in my book and I own 3

[EdS]

I've owned and used all of the powder measures mentioned in the responses, plus a few more that are mostly sold to the benchrest shooters. Each measure requires that the user experiment to find the technique that gives the most consistent delivered powder weights. The Redding measures are actually mid-range in price and in my opinion give excellent results when used with rifle and handgun drums. I suggest that you try a Redding, with both drums. You can record the measure setting vs. weight delivered for each powder you use. It is then very easy to return to a given setting and be very, very close to the same weight. -Ed

[Char-Gar]

I have owned 4 different drum measures over the past 50 years. I did not cotton to the RCBS or Redding so they went by by. So I use a Hollywood and a Lyman 55. I have them mounted on opposite ends of a 2X4 which I catch in my bench vise.

I bought the Hollywood used in 1959 and it has been in service every since. It has a micrometer type adjustable charge hole and if thes, setting are written down, it will go back where it should, 100% of the time. I still check it against a scale every time, but unless I set it wrong, it is always spot on. I have used it for powder charges from 2.7 Bulleye to 84 4350. These days it is most often used with 2400 and Unique.

I have also had a Lyman 55 since 1959, but my current one, although from the 50's, has been on my bench for only 5 years. I have given several away to youngster starting in reloading. These are slight evolutions from the old Idea #5 and have been great measures for generations. They are a little harder to adjust, but the chart furnished by Lyman gets you very, very close to what you want. I use mine primary for charges of Bulleye for pistol loads. In fact is never gets moved from 3.5 grains (38 Special) unless I go to 4.5 grains for the 45 ACP.

On any given day there are 8 to 10 Lyman 55s on Ebay of all vintages. They sell from $35 - $45 most often with more on the higher range.

Four years ago, I bought a Hollywood on Ebay for $28 to use as a backup in case my original rolls snake eyes. I have never used, nor probably every will use the backup. These measure were sold with a primitive kind of powder baffle, which was a round disc with a hole in it that fit the bottom of the powder hopper. It work OK, with small flake powders or ball powder, but if you go to a long stick powder, take it out.

Do not expect people to agree or even come to consensus on your question. The above is just what I use with complete satisfaction. I don't think there is any "best", just a matter of personal preference and choice.

[Longwood]

For a pistol only measure, I recommend a Little Dandy with the aluminum knob for ease of operating the rotors.
I don't recommend it, but I use a older (soft) rotor with a small number then drill it and or use JB weld to adjust it for my favorite loads.
That saves having to buy too many rotors.
I see now that the new rotors are hardened but the ones that I have that have one centered hole, that is not threaded, and one threaded hole, in the rear of the rotor, are not hard, but are soft and drill able..
There are lots of them on ebay for sometimes pretty cheap.
I paid $24 for one measure that came with a rotor because the hopper had a tiny crack that does not hurt a thing. A bit of aluminum duct tape and it is stronger than new.
I bought three rotors for a buck each because they had a tiny bit of rust spots here and there.
At prices like that, I can have a dedicated measure for each caliber I use on my Loadmaster or two measures on the press.

[FergusonTO35]

I really like the Little Dandy but the spare rotors are a rip off.

[Longwood]

I really like the Little Dandy but the spare rotors are a rip off.

I only have five of the rotors for two measures.
One that came with the measure I got for cheap, three that cost three dollars, and one really big one that I paid three dollars for.
I see the little number #1 and #2's usually do not sell well when listed on ebay and many of them are the soft ones that can be drilled and or modified.
I bought mine to use with a case operated attachment so being able to drill and tap holes is a plus.

[1hole]

If only one was "best" it would be the only one surviving in the market.

"Do any of these have known problem areas?" No, not particularly.

"Am I going to have to buy a stupid expensive stand to go with either one?" Unless you plan to mount it even more stupidly on a press, yes.

"Which would be best for loading small charges for .32 caliber handguns? I mostly use Bullseye, Titegroup, and Accurate #2. Which would be best for loading medium size charges for .38 Special and 9mm? I mostly use Accurate #5." Lyman 55 or any one of the others with a pistol measuring chamber.

"Which is the best for rifle charges in .257 Roberts and .30 WCF? I mostly use Hodgdon Varget, 4895, and Accurate 5744." Your present Lee PPM.

"Will I have to buy accessories beyond the measure to use it with the cartridges listed above?" No, unless you consider the stand an accessory.

[Longwood]

[QUOTE=1hole;1788427

Unless you plan to mount it even more stupidly on a press, yes.

[/QUOTE]

That could be misleading.
I suspect you are talking about those pieces of flatbar that RCBS sells.


I have been reloading on my own tools since the mid 80's.
I have five powder measures.

My black powder measure is mounted on a board clamped to a shelf.
The rest of my measures get mounted to one press or another.
I don't even own a powder stand and I am a welder fabricator that can make one in about 15 minutes.

[.22-10-45]

Santa left a Redding 10X pistol powder measure last year..this measures from 1 to 25grs. It has become my favorite measure for loading my revolvers. For rifle, I have used the Redding BR 30 for years. Harrell's also makes a very nice and precise line of measures.

[flounderman]

I have 3 55s and have used one for over 50 years and it was used when I got it. you need a scale, I don't care what measure you have. You don't depend on setting a powder measure by looking at it. You don't have to weigh every charge once you have the measure set and develope a rhythm. using a loading block gives you a visual before you seat the bullet. everything should look the same. I don't care which make measure you use, it is only as good as the operator. You have to move the lever at the same force and rhythm each time. the last thing I would want is the measure mounted on the loader, if I wanted absolute accurate metering. You need two different size drop tubes so powder doesn't hang up in the tube. again, that is the advantage of using a loading block and charging 50 cases at a time. you can look at them and see if something is wrong. bottom line, they all work. don't try to use one without a scale. I would buy a used measure and a used scale if I could find one, but that's just me.

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks alot guys. Ironically, I may end up with all three before Its all said and done with. I'm working on a trade with a guy who has a Lyman and is interested in a fly rod I have. There is a Redding #3 on Fleabay that might be a good deal. And, a guy has an RCBS in the swapping and selling forum which I will likely buy if its still available on payday.

[1hole]

#15: "I have been reloading on my own tools since the mid 80's. I have five powder measures. ....That could be misleading. I suspect you are talking about those pieces of flatbar that RCBS sells.... I am a welder fabricator that can make one in about 15 minutes"

Okay. I've been loading on my own tools since the mid 60s and have four powder measures, of which I only keep one on the bench. It's in my own very sturdy home built stand mounted well back from the front of my bench; it works great but few reloaders are welders or machinests or have a huge bench so what specialty things I do and the tools I use has little meaning to others does it? I have no idea what RCBS flat bar you refer to. A flat bar may be better mounting attachment than nothing but a bar really isn't a powder measure "stand" is it?

Now that we've got that meaningless personal stuff out of the way, I don't know what you think was 'misleading' but surely you will agree that a press is a very clumsy 'powder measure stand'. A press is quite big, it takes a lot of bench room and it's much more costly than any conventional stand without adding a thing to its function.

So, what help is Mr. FergusonTO35 supposed to get from your post?

[Longwood]

So, what help is Mr. FergusonTO35 supposed to get from your post?



That mounting a measure onto a press can be a great idea.[smilie=p:

[Char-Gar]

I cannot prove, nor would I go the the mat over the notion that mounting a measure in the press is a bad notion. But, I don't do it as it makes me a little nervous. I want my measures to be mounted straight up and not at an angle, and not rotated on a turret if that is the case. It just doesn't seem like a good idea, but I have no proof that it is.

I mount my measures on 18" lengths of 2X4 lumber,one on each in. I have to inlet the wood a little to geet it down in the area of the clamp for a fit. I then clamp the 2X4 in my 360 degree rotating vise. The vise is mounted on a free standing bench, with a solid core door topped with 2X6s, again topped with a smooth laminate top. The legs are 4X4s, and the two shelves are loaded with brass and bullets. It is a very solid set up.

With the lumber/measure in my vise, I can take the measure, try and shake it the bench won't move a nano-inch. They are as solid as if mounted to a granite boulder. You get a smooth throw every time, no matter what the powder. This is not a very elegant mounting system, but it is hell for strong.

[Longwood]

A little single stage press like the Lee and the Smart press can double as a powder stand if you simply take out one bolt and let the handle down.
Remove two bolts and the ram will slide out and then it will work back from the edge of a bench of shelf etc.
I have a RCBS measure mounted on my LoadMaster press that does not have a rotating turret.
I am presently using a row of single stages for loading 45-70's.
I use Lee single stage presses and two have measures mounted to them. One that is on a powder-thru flaring die for the main charge and another if I use a primer charge with surplus powder or a cream of wheat filler.
I call it my "El-Cheapo" gang press.
I want to be able to remove it and install it to my bench quickly and easily. As soon as I get it all mounted to a board or slab of thick aluminum, I will be all set.

[H.Callahan]

My press makes a good powder stand, too. I take that piece of flat bar that RCBS gives you which has 2 1-7/8" holes in it. One hole is threaded -- the powder measure screws in there. The other, non-threaded end goes over the hole in a single stage press. I screw in a reloading die to secure the bar to the press. I can adjust the bar to any angle away from the press that is comfortable and can drop powder all day.

When I am done, I unscrew the die (I usually don't take the measure off the bar, but could if I needed more compact storage) and put the measure away.

Since I pretty much single stage the powder drop anyway (so that I can verify consistent powder levels), this is no biggie to me. Frankly, I though that what the bar was for unless you used the two screw-sided holes to mount it permanently to the bench or shelf or whatever.

[FergusonTO35]

Hmm, I didn't know thats what the flat bar thingie from RCBS was for.

[Longwood]

Hmm, I didn't know thats what the flat bar thingie from RCBS was for.

One guy here made one like that for a single stage press that he had two measures mounted to.
Some guys make measure stands from wood that look very nice indeed.

[1bluehorse]

As far as rotor type measures are concerned I don't see where one is any better than another. They all work on the same principal, just a rotor with hole in it that fills with powder and when turned dumps the powder out. The micrometer adjusters (that cost extra) may be a little easier to set but do nothing the "standard" adjusting knobs won't do. All either does is set the depth in the rotor for the amount of powder charge. Using a baffle seems (for me) to help with consistancy especially with known difficult powders (Unique, BD, etc;). I have a couple Uniflows mounted on progressives presses, two old Pacific measures, ones a rotor type mounted on the bench and the other is the pistol measure that uses bushings and several Lee Pro Auto disks that I use on a LCT. They all work about the same as far as consistancy is concerned. It's my opinion (free by the way) that the inconsistancys experienced by users are caused more by "outside" influences than by the measures themselves..YOMV..

[FergusonTO35]

Ok, I'm bidding on a nice used Redding. Now, to switch between pistol and rifle charges on a Redding you just unscrew the metering assembly and put in a larger or smaller one, correct? Another question: what powder measure does this unit fit and is it the large or small one?

http://pics.gunbroker.com/GB/297624000/297624407/pix491263076.jpg

[32ideal]

Have used many drum type powder measures over the 50+ years I've reloaded, 10 + years ago I purchased a used Harrell"s (Standard up to 120grs) measure at a gun show, since then I also purchased the Schuetzen / Pistol Measure, they are the Easiest to use & Very Best drum measure you can purchase IMHO. Sold all the other bench measures I had except one Lyman 55 that is converted for BP only.
32ideal

PS: They are $$$, but they are MADE IN THE USA and Harrell's back them 100%.

[1hole]

If take each individual case in hand, one at a time, and hold it under the measure to drop each charge before swapping the filled case for an empty, then screwing a measure into a press will certainly work even tho a press is far more costly and bulky than a stand and eats up more precious bench space than a proper stand.

But, if we prime our cases and set them mouth up in a loading block before dropping charges we can charge much faster and with a much more consistant rythum by simply sequencing the full case block under the measure; that charging method is not possible with the measure stuck in a press. Then we can hold the block under a strong light and visually check that the powder column in each case is equal before beginning seating - no missed charges, no squibs, no overloads. Back when I started this stuff that's the way almost everyone dropped charges because it was simple, fast, smooth and allowed us to check each charge for safety. But, YMMV.

I agree the Harrel is good but it's too costly for me. And it's really not that much better than my OLD Redding Master.

[H.Callahan]

I suppose if we were to take each individual case in hand one at a time and hold it under the measure to drop the charge then pluggin a into a press would work even tho a press is far more costly and bulky and eat up bench space than a proper stand.

But, if we prime our cases and set them up in a loading block before dropping charges we can charge much faster and with a much more consistant rythum by simply sequencing the full block under the measure. Then we can hold the charges under a strong light and visually check that the powder column are equal before beginning seating - no missed charges, no squibs, no overloads. Back when I started this stuff that's the way almost everyone dropped charges because it was simple, fast, smooth and allowed us to check each charge for safety. That charging method is not possible with the measure stuck in a press. But, YMMV.

Mine sticks out far enough with the bar that I can get a loading block under it and charge that way. The press is already there anyway, so in actuality, it takes up no additional room at all.

[Kevin Rohrer]

The only drum-type I own is a Hollywood, and it is scarily accurate with even flake powders. I ran a test and threw 10-charges of Bullseye. They were all right at 6.0gr.

[Char-Gar]

The only drum-type I own is a Hollywood, and it is scarily accurate with even flake powders. I ran a test and threw 10-charges of Bullseye. They were all right at 6.0gr.

I have been using the same Hollywood measure since 1959 with the same results as you have had. If there has even been a better adjustable measure made, I don't know what it is.

[FergusonTO35]

Well, I made a deal with another member for his RCBS Uniflow which has a quick change drum and large and small metering assemblies.

[warf73]

Been using the RCBS Uniflow I've ran flake, sphyical and extruded powder with no issue(extruded is a pain but... needs trickled up to the proper charge). The only complaint I have with it is loading 204 or 480 the drop tube is either way to small or not large enough.

[FergusonTO35]

Anybody know if RCBS makes a micrometer insert for the Quick Change? Can the micrometer insert for the Uniflow be used in it?

[jonk]

I have the RCBS for ball powder, and stick with the Lee for stick. The RCBS chops stick powders badly, while the Lee leaks ball but is the cat's meow with stick powder.

I have no other experience so can't comment on others' measures.

[Dan Cash]

5 or 6 Lyman 55s and 8 or 9 Dillons for the 550B presses. If I could make the Lymans work on the Dillon press, they would be there. The Dillons are good but the 55s are more consistent and easier to set charge weight.

[FergusonTO35]

I ended up winning a nearly new Uniflow with stand on Fleabay for $51.00. I finally got a chance to try it out last night. Filled it up with Titegroup and set the metering screw to "0", oddly there are graduations below the 0 so it seems it should actually be "1". At this setting it throws 3.1 grains of Titegroup every time, and this is with the standard drum, not the small one. I'm really liking this measure, it operates alot more smoothly than my Perfect measure and the metering screw is much easier to see although the graduations are rather imprecise.

I still have the Quick Change measure on the way from a deal I made on this forum. I like the idea of being able to change out metering screws quickly but RCBS doesn't make a micrometer adjustment screw for it, also from what I can tell the metering screw of the Quick Change has no numbers on it at all. I wonder just how large of a charge you can throw with the small Uniflow drum? Other than the .45-70 I don't use any charges larger than 34 grains of Varget. Which one will I like better? We shall see, I suppose!!

[A pause for the COZ]

For me, I found for Flake powders ( Unique) the Uni-Flow is the cats meow. Since that is my Go to powder. The Uni-Flow is my go to measure.

It performs well with a baffle on Ball powders. ( I do not use a Baffle with flake powders)

My two Uni-Flows are sub par with extruded rifle powders ( I.E. I3031) Reminds me of a coffee grinder as its cutting the powder.

I use a LEE PPM for those loads.

[gcollins]

Well Fellar's, Here is my 2 cents and take it litghly![smilie=w:
I have owned and still do several powder dumps![smilie=s: Picking out a powder dump has to do with what you will be loading?? Up untill 30 days ago I never loaded a rifle round without checking its weight on a scale? With my rifle rounds I used a Blending Mull powder dump which was the best for extruded powders, they were very slow but very accurate! With my hand guns I used RCBS poowder dumps along with my Dillons dumps, It took me a few years that pistols can be off up or down a little and won't make any differences unless you are hunting with a hand gun.
I have a Reddings 30BR`that all I have ever run threw it was H335 which meter's
good in all of the powder dumps I have owned. The other day I saw a (Harts or Harrels) I don't recall, but 1 of the first few posters said he owned one and sold it, I guy on another forum told me that there wasn't a better powder dump anywhere!
For what it is worth:shock: I think that any powder dump you buy will work when loading for pistols[smilie=w:

G

[captaint]

They all do work. Some just work better with certain types of powders. I actually think operator consistency has more to do with accurate charges than anything else. JMO Mike

[Longwood]

For a long time, I weighed every load that I shot in competition.
I read somewhere to use the double tap method when using a rotor drum type measure.
At the top and the bottom of the stroke, I back the handle up a ways and tap it against the stops an additional time.
It proved to work so well that I quit weighing my loads.
I think I have a method figured out for adding a drop hammer type tapper, on a Little Dandy and a Uniflow that has a automatic case operator installed onto them. It may only work at the dumping stage. That would be better than nothing.

[popper]

flatbar that RCBS sells works for me, mounted under the seating die. It's just the right thickness for keeping the seater from crimping - don't have to buy a shim. Of course my loading bench does dual purpose with everything else I do in the garage.

[Bret4207]

I have the Redding, a Lyman and and had an RCBS. I love the Redding, the RCBS was sold off when I got the Redding and the Lyman, the Nightmare as I like to call it, it permanently set and locked at 13.0 Red Dot. The 3 slide system on the Lyman may be loved by some, but I HATE it.

[skeettx]

I like my SAECOs
They are finely honed and work well
Mike

[BD]

The "best" drum type powder measure is generally the one with the best mill fit and least wear, no matter who made it. They are all shears, and a well fit shear, with little wear, will cut granules better than a worn out shear with a loose drum. I have an old Hornady on my Pro-Jector which is as tight and sharp on the drum and housing as can be. Unfortunately the measure chamber "piston" is aluminum, and the leading edge is worn, (150,000 cycles?). I need a new one. I have an RCBS with much less wear that works fine, despite it's aluminum "piston". I had a Lyman 55 that was sloppy enough that it would balk at Varget so I gave it away, (Whats with the Knocker", Is that an admission that the measure was machined with some slop?).
In the real world we need to use the measure that gives us the results we need. For me, that's the Hornady for small flake .45 acp, the RCBS Uni-Flow for general use, and the B&M for long grain powders where accuracy is paramount.
BD

[btroj]

I would say the "best" are those with a Culver style drum.

That being said, rose are far out of the price range of most shooters.

I have an RCBS and.a Lyman in addition to,my Harrles. I use the Lyman for small powder charges, the RCBS hasn't seen use in many years. The RCBS chokes on WC820 every time, the Lyman does just fine.

[FergusonTO35]

Well, I've been using my RCBS Uniflow for awhile and like it, however I seem to have shot myself in the foot . Its a great measure, very consistent, but the darn metering screw that comes with it is almost as hard to read as the one on my Perfect measure. So, looks like I'll have to spring for a micrometer metering insert (forehead slap).

[Char-Gar]

There are several Hollywood measure on Ebay now. One just went for $35.00 yesterday.

[Longwood]

Well, I've been using m**yRCBS Uniflow for awhile and like it, however I seem to have shot myself in the foot . Its a great measure, very consistent, but the darn metering screw that comes with it is almost as hard to read as the one on my Perfect measure. So, looks like I'll have to spring for a micrometer metering insert (forehead slap).

I have been using Uniflow measures since I began reloading over two decades ago. I never have used the numbers.
I use a powder scale to set all of my measures.
I bought and tried a Micrometer attachment, for a while, but it was a waste of my money if you ask me. I sold it to someone that soon agreed with me.

[FergusonTO35]

I do check the actual charge weight before charging cases. The numbers provide a way to quickly get the adjustment close to where it needs to be, I keep a notebook full of settings for different powders and charges so I can find the intial setting quickly.

[FUBAR 6]

Hollywood Shot measure for long powders by far, then it's a tie, SAECO, Hollywood, Harrell's, Lyman 55, or B&M

However the Lee you mentioned should work OK if mounted well, given good technique.....

[flounderman]

any measure will work well if you operate it consistantly. I would never set a powder measure looking at markings. set it with a scale and there shouldn't be any mistakes. how you throw the charges determines how consistant the measure works.

[Longwood]

I do check the actual charge weight before charging cases. The numbers provide a way to quickly get the adjustment close to where it needs to be, I keep a notebook full of settings for different powders and charges so I can find the intial setting quickly.

I looked at some of mine and do see that they get a patina that makes them hard to read.
I have eraser like bars called finishing sticks, that have grit in them for polishing. I used one on the flat and now the numbers stand out like black print on white paper and are easy to read.
Something flat and hard with some extra fine emory or wet and dry paper will polish it right up.
Be careful to not remove the dark stuff from the numbers and lines. If there is no black stuff in the lines, clean it well and put on a very light coat of paint to renew the number and line marks. Let the paint thoroughly dry, for a few days, then polish and add a light coat of oil.
I have done this with scales and other items several times. Never touching the face of carbon steel scales is a good idea.

[o6Patient]

All (quality)dumps work well with fine powder and the 'mulls are pretty neat for long extruded.
My dump for years was a hornady and it would throw fine powders well, so I improved
a situation that really didn't need it and now have a couple of duo's in addition and a couple
of mulls on the side. The 55's are neat looking little things but over complicate the simple
principal of changing hole size. If I didn't have my duo's I would probably have a redding. MO

[hepburn45110]

There isn't anything a Harrel.