Reducing trigger pull - New Model Blackhawk Convertible .357 mag/9mm

[Lead Freak]

I read a tip the other day that suggested that by leaving one side of the trigger spring below the trigger spring retaining pin, it would reduce the trigger pull considerably and still be within a safe limit. This trigger spring arrangement is the same on all new model Blackhawks. Has anyone tried this, and if so, what were the results?

[NickSS]

You can do that and it will reduce the trigger pull a good deal you can also put about a 20 degree bent in each leg of the sprig and that will also reduce the pull. The more bend the less pull weight of course there are limits.

[jhrosier]

I've used both methods and they work.
Dropping one leg of the spring off of the pin is fast and easy but you have to make sure that the dropped leg doesn't interfere with the mainspring when the grips are in place.

Jack

[unclebill]

itake 1 leg off as well.
works fine and super easy

[scattershot]

That's the first thing I do to a new Ruger. I've done it for years, and it works very well. Either method works.

[Wally]

You can do that and it will reduce the trigger pull a good deal you can also put about a 20 degree bent in each leg of the sprig and that will also reduce the pull. The more bend the less pull weight of course there are limits.


Yes, this has worked superbly for me---others can always purchase a Wolff spring from Brownells, if they don't want to modify the stock trigger return spring, themselves.

[Lead Freak]

Thanks for the helpful replys! I didn't want to try something that might damage the gun or something that hasn't been tried before.

[gray wolf]

exactly how do you remove the trigger spring ?
There seems to be a pin that is visible when the grips are off.
Is that it ? drive out that pin and the spring comes out.
I don't want springs and pins along with unknown shrap metal flying around the room.
Can someone explain the proses

[Lead Freak]

Originally Posted by gray wolf
exactly how do you remove the trigger spring ?
There seems to be a pin that is visible when the grips are off.
Is that it ? drive out that pin and the spring comes out.
I don't want springs and pins along with unknown shrap metal flying around the room.
Can someone explain the proses


If you're going to just unhook one sde of the trigger spring, you won't have to remove it from the gun. Just remove the grips and lift one side of the spring up off the retaining pin so that it's hanging free below the pin. This should reduce your trigger pull by half. Also keep Jack's comment (3 rd from top) in mind. Make sure that the leg of the spring doesn't interfere with the main spring with the grips installed. If you are replacing the hammer spring, go to the owner manual link below for disassembly
Instructions.

https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/blackhawk.pdf

Dana

[tek4260]

Install a smaller diameter wire spring. Spring rate is determined by the diameter of the wire. The factory spring is simply too heavy to get a good(to me) trigger pull weight. By the time you lift and bend enough to get a good trigger, the spring is no longer acting as a spring.

[tek4260]

notice the diameter difference between a factory spring and a Wolff

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm35/tk3945/DSCN1097.jpg

My favorites are the old Bullseye springs. Notice how they hang below the hanger pin. This takes much of the preload out and they end up being about 1/2 or less the pull weight of a Wolff.

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm35/tk3945/101_2691.jpg

[phonejack]

It works well, however, for "woods" use, I prefer to have both legs engaged. Less chance of an uh oh!

[gray wolf]

OK--one more time for the mechanically challenged
How the Helll do you take the spring out ???
and do parts go flying ??

[high standard 40]

OK--one more time for the mechanically challenged
How the Helll do you take the spring out ???
and do parts go flying ??

With the grip panels removed, cock the hammer. At the bottom end of the hammer strut you will see a small hole. Place a small pin in that hole and then ease the hammer down. This will keep the hammer spring compressed and will allow you to remove the hammer spring and strut as an assembly. You may have to unhook the rear legs of the trigger spring to ease the strut removal. Push out the small pin that the trigger pin pivots on. You can then easily remove the trigger spring. No parts should fly because you have relaxed or contained all the involved springs. You can then make your bends on the trigger spring. I like to also bend about 1/4" inch of the front portion of the trigger spring down a little so that it maintains contact with the ledge in the trigger if you aggressively bend the rear legs of the trigger spring. When you re-assemble, be sure that the front nose of the trigger spring rests in the proper place on the back of the trigger. I've been able to achieve a very light trigger with this method and maintain full function of the revolver. If you go to far bending the rear legs of the trigger spring but don't also bend the front nose of the trigger spring down as I described, the trigger will sometimes not return to the forward position after firing.

EDIT TO ADD. Here is a link to the article which does a much better job of describing the procedure, with pictures.

http://www.cylindersmith.com/triggerspring.html

[paul h]

Once you pull the legs of the spring off the pin the spring is no longer in tension. Then drift out the pin that holds the spring in place.

As to the op, as much as I like rugers, they have a bad habit of not properly polishing surfaces that should be polished. Removing the hammer and trigger and polishing the surfaces with a 600gr stone is well worth the effort to smooth up the trigger. I'm also a big fan of overtravel screws on triggers so that the trigger travel stops just after the hammer releases.

[gray wolf]

Thank you for an excellent explanation. My trigger was done at ruger it's very crisp and has no creep or pre travel, It's about 3.5 pounds and great for hunting and field work. I shoot a lot of target, and for that I do find I like one leg off the spring gives a very nice trigger. I also find it to be just a WEE bit light.
So my thinking was to replace the trigger return spring. I would just have to figure out what spring rate to use. I like the idea of an over travel screw,
I understand some talented people can install one on the inside of the pistol.
Probably expensive.
I thank you for helping with my question.

[Lead Freak]

With the grip panels removed, cock the hammer. At the bottom end of the hammer strut you will see a small hole. Place a small pin in that hole and then ease the hammer down. This will keep the hammer spring compressed and will allow you to remove the hammer spring and strut as an assembly. You may have to unhook the rear legs of the trigger spring to ease the strut removal. Push out the small pin that the trigger pin pivots on. You can then easily remove the trigger spring. No parts should fly because you have relaxed or contained all the involved springs. You can then make your bends on the trigger spring. I like to also bend about 1/4" inch of the front portion of the trigger spring down a little so that it maintains contact with the ledge in the trigger if you aggressively bend the rear legs of the trigger spring. When you re-assemble, be sure that the front nose of the trigger spring rests in the proper place on the back of the trigger. I've been able to achieve a very light trigger with this method and maintain full function of the revolver. If you go to far bending the rear legs of the trigger spring but don't also bend the front nose of the trigger spring down as I described, the trigger will sometimes not return to the forward position after firing.

EDIT TO ADD. Here is a link to the article which does a much better job of describing the procedure, with pictures.

http://www.cylindersmith.com/triggerspring.html


Thanks High Standard, for sharing your first hand experience and the link!