New super blackhawk ?

[monge]

Thinking o f buying a superblack hawk in 44mag does enenyone know how the forcing cones are I heard they were on the tite side is this true? Thanks Joe

[Salmoneye]

Forcing cones, or chamber throats?

[TCLouis]

I think the story is that Ruger is "FAMOUS" for over tightening the barrels causing a constriction where the barrel passes through the frame.

With that issue I think it is like anything else, you take a chance your barrel is one of those.

If you are worried about the throats in the cylinders chambers, those are an "easy" fix.

[btroj]

I wouldn't ever let fear of things like that determine wha to buy.

Some people have problems with any brand of whatever.

Most any problem you are likely to encounter with a new Ruger can be easily fixed. Rather than feet over such thing buy one and shoot it. That is the only way to know for certain.

If you want custom precision then buy custom. Otherwise you get what you pay for. Me, I own many Rufers and have been perfectly happy with all of them.

[44man]

.44's are usually good to go as far as throats. Some may be a little large but that is OK.
Forcing cones are good, they are to allow entry to the bore and allow boolits to pull the cylinder into line. That is the only fuction.
The SBH is a great gun.

[Saint]

My SBH has been a great gun but it does have some issues with forcing cone erosion. I hear that this isn't as much of an issue with cast boolits though. It's really not that bad though and I could probably finish out the decade without a problem.

[monge]

I guess Im over thinking again I have I redhawk and love it .When the sbh comes Ill slug the barrel and go from there. Do you think I should break the barrel in with j bullits? Thanks JOE

[44man]

I guess Im over thinking again I have I redhawk and love it .When the sbh comes Ill slug the barrel and go from there. Do you think I should break the barrel in with j bullits? Thanks JOE
Might not be needed at all. We shoot cast right out of the box after cleaning the bore first. My friends SBH Hunter does 1/2" at 50 yards from the start.
My BFR's have never seen a jacketed except the 45-70 for deer once in a while. It does less then 1" at 100 with cast.
Cast is not a mystery and they will out shoot "J" word stuff if done right.
After all, some jacketed loads also suck.
Just clean the bore of all copper and shoot it.

[EDK]

J-WORDS!!! Only grudgingly in my M1A or AR15 clones. I think I shot some jacketed rounds in a 44 back in the 1970s; I have a box or two of HYDRA-SHOKS in the ammo stash.

Shoot the gun first and THEN see if you have leading issues. Do a search on fire lapping and read the pros and cons. My cures for leading are below.

1. Fire Lap, per 2 Dogs tutorial.
2. Put a bit of lapping compound on a Q-tip and coat the forcing cone in the barrel before a shooting session. (Slow process.)
3. Use CHORE GIRL when the lead accumulates enough to bother you.
4. Use LLA on a RANCH DOG TLC 432 265 gas checked boolit; shoot six rounds after a shooting session...lead is removed while you shoot. (I'm too d*** cheap to shoot a lot of gas checks...they don't exactly give them away!)
5. TAYLOR THROAT or lap the barrel.

I've got a pair of Original Size VAQUEROS on their way back from the pistolsmith; HUNTER grip frames, SUPER BLACK HAWK hammers and trigger jobs. I put less than 100 rounds through them because the trigger pulls with the factory new SBH hammers was terrible. I'll give them a range session or two and address the problems as they arise.

:redneck::cbpour:

[white eagle]

I have bought quite a few lately and have not had any issues with any 44.... In that dept

[44man]

I cleaned my .44 SBH forcing cone, this gun just reached 64,000 heavy loads. You can see sandblasting from powder and gas cutting at the edge. Does not harm much.
But the cone is still in good shape, no funny wear and rifling is still sharp and deep.
Throats show no wear and there is no end play or more side play then when it was new.
The SBH is good for many life times.

[44man]

Here is what happens when a cylinder is too tight and perfect alignment is missing. Notice the wear ripples? The rifling was worn down on this side too. The throats were worn oblong.
This damage was done with around 300 shots.
Beware of making a revolver too tight, even a very tight cylinder pin replacement can be bad.
You also need a tiny amount of end play or when the gun gets hot it will bind and gall metal. Keep lube on the ratchet, pin and front bushing, I use STP.
Ruger, BFR's, S&W and many others are correct. It is why they shoot and last forever.