Best Way to Rduce Large Ingot

[Bigbore4me]

What is the best/easiest way to reduce the size of a 60 lb ingot if it wont fit in your pot? Hack saw? Electric miter saw?

[geargnasher]

Sawzall and a tarp.

Gear

[Springfield]

Get a bigger pot. Really, for 5 bucks at the goodwill my time is worth more than spending too much time cutting things up. 60 lbs is what, 8 inches across? Not that big a pot after all.

[Bigbore4me]

Thanks geargnasher - that would work but I'd have find someone who owns one or buy one. May have to rent one.

[geargnasher]

Ok, then get one of those little Stanley carpenter's handsaws and a sixpack of cold adult beverages.

Gear

[runfiverun]

just put it in/across the melting pot and help it along with the torch.
6 quart pot should hold it an 8 quart definatly will.

[paul h]

I've cut lead a few times, and it really seems to gum up something fierce with a reciprocating saw. I have used a table saw and it seemed to work much better. So I'd vote miter saw.

[44man]

I drilled a hole in the end of a 75# ingot. I hung it with my deer pulley system and lowered it slowly into the pot as it melted.

[geargnasher]

I've cut lead a few times, and it really seems to gum up something fierce with a reciprocating saw. I have used a table saw and it seemed to work much better. So I'd vote miter saw.

I forgot to mention Pam or generic cooking spray. Get the gnarly-ist blade you can find, like a really coarse woodcutting blade with lots of "set" to the teeth, and use the cooking spray every few seconds. The combination of tooth set and lube prevents it gumming up. If using a chainsaw, putting 30 weight engine oil in the bar oil reservoir helps, just did that the other day. It makes a royal mess, but the thinner oil keeps the chain cooler and lubes the cut as you go, just don't let it run dry, which it does quickly.

Gear

[MR45]

Try a wood splitter. or A weed burner.

[Walter Laich]

I've used a table saw with good results--not too much 'lead dust' either

[Echo]

No experience, but I've heard of a weedburner being used. Just laid the ingot on the ground and melted it into a pre-dug trough leading down hill. Rapidly dug a new trough when the first got full, and so on. Sure, dirt in the new ingots, but easily handled in smelting...
But I vote for the bigger (stainless) pot from Salvation Army...

[mold maker]

There isn't an easy or standard way. Add to the above, sledge and wedge/chisel, limb saw, coarse hand saw.
Any type of saw will need lots of lube to avoid leading and clogged teeth.
What ever method you use, also use common sense and safety. Work over a tarp to collect shards or saw droppings. No point in wasteing your efforts or lead.
Sometimes the shape dictates the method.

[zxcvbob]

A carpenters handsaw, and take long strokes to eject the chips. Not sure if a rip blade or a crosscut would work better.

[mold maker]

No experience, but I've heard of a weedburner being used. Just laid the ingot on the ground and melted it into a pre-dug trough leading down hill. Rapidly dug a new trough when the first got full, and so on. Sure, dirt in the new ingots, but easily handled in smelting...
But I vote for the bigger (stainless) pot from Salvation Army...

I also have read of using a weed burner, but don't reccomend it.
Our normal smelting and casting temps are well below that, required to vaporize lead.
When applying a weed burner to lead, the surface can well exceed safe temps.
The recomendation of a larger pot is smart, as long as it's sturdy enough to retain the weight, and not aluminum.
Don't ever try to move or pour from a large cooking pot. The handles WILL NOT withstand the weight.

[Springfield]

A chainsaw works, but then you will have oil coated shavings that will smoke BIG TIME when melted down.

[Bigbore4me]

Thanks for all the input from everyone. That gives me several ideas that will work. Now I just need to get to it. Thanks again.

[10 ga]

If it's just a 60# ingot just use a big ole cold chisel and a 3# hammer to cut chunks off. Easy with soft lead and no "lead dust" from any saw action. I have also built a tripod and hung ingots up and put a pan under them and melt off with a soldering torch. All the stuff mentioned will work, just which you wanna use. 10

[Chicken Thief]

I split a 60pounder with a circular saw in less than 2min!

[GREENCOUNTYPETE]

i cut lead pipe with an ax into short lengths so they fit in my pot , i see no reason why it wouldn't work to do the same with a large ingot hit it once and hammer it thru or hit it then turn it over and hammer thru once you have it scored good you can flip it over and bend the chuck off by beating it back and forth

I lay the pipe on a stump then hit it with the ax

[snuffy]

Get one of these. I did.

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/reciprocating-saws/6-amp-reciprocating-saw-with-rotating-handle-65570.html

When you order or are at the store, get a blade pack that has the long wood cutting blades. Coarse tooth configuration, with PLENTY of some sort of oil. It'll take several minutes, but minimal shavings. I cut through one of these machine weights across the width in 5 minutes. it's 2" thick! Weighs 90#.

http://photos.imageevent.com/jptowns/terrysoops/websize/P2130004.JPG

A circular saw creates a LOT of shavings. AND when/while they're coming off the saw, they're hot and hit with force. Remember you're creating a large lead contaminated area with fine lead shavings.

[Longwood]

I sure would like to see a member report on the Harbor Freight two bladed saw.
I read some of the feedback on Harbor Freights site and not very many were favorable.
I also saw that they went an sale after the bad reviews.
The saws would sure come in handy if they do as they are meant to do.

[Chicken Thief]

A circular saw creates a LOT of shavings. AND when/while they're coming off the saw, they're hot and hit with force. Remember you're creating a large lead contaminated area with fine lead shavings.

Hmmmm, must be doing something wrong as mine only flung swarf 8-10". And they were easy to collect with broom and dustpan, no more than 1/4lb at most.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

I have used an old Colman stove for many years, for both casting and smelting.

My cast iron casting pot holds about 40 lbs, and is not very big (8" at the top and maybe 4" deep). So, I also vote for the large pot.

As indicated, in reality this will not even need to be a large pot as lead stacks up real fast!

Keep em coming!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[D Crockett]

what you need is one of my big melting pots and a try pod holding it so you can let it down till it will not flip the pot over and melt away D Crockett

[Tank56]

I do the same thing as GREENCOUNTYPETE
cut it with an old axe. No dust or chips and no loss due to kerf.

[zxcvbob]

I tried an axe once on a 2.5 inch thick piece of lead. The axe would go in about 1/2" and stop. Repeated hits in the same spot would not go any deeper.

[hyoder]

Geargnasher has it - sawzall with a demolition blade and a tarp or 5 gallon bucket to catch the chips.

[guidogoose]

Methods I've used are MAPP torch or clamped in vise with a sledgehammer.

[H.Callahan]

Best way to reduce it is to send it to me. I would be happy to dispose of it for you. ...and I won't even charge for the service!

:kidding:

[fcvan]

I had a large ingot of pure lead that was 6"x6"x24" I cut 1/3 off and melted that on a propane cook stove with a 3lb metal coffee can. The coffee can had a semi-conical metal shroud placed around it to concentrate the heat around the can. I used a stainless long handle ladle for pouring into ingots. Once I ladled half of the lead out I set the other 2/3 of the ingot into the can. As it melted I would lift it out, ladle back down to half and repeat. It took longer to cut the large ingot than it did to melt it down. Once I had it down to 1lb ingots I was able to mix much of it with other alloys to get my desired hardness. The remainder of the pure lead will be cast for my black powder shooting. Frank

By the way, a 3lb coffee can holds 80+ lbs of lead. Make sure your stove can handle that!

[Hank10]

I have a 85 lb. electric pot which handles most large pieces i get but when i do get a too large piece, I use a Oxy/acetylene torch. Even with a propane torch you can melt off pieces until it fits in your pot.
H10

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

OXY-Acetylene does in fact WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!

Once built a steel box, one foot square, and filled it about 3/4 full of plumbers lead for a counter balance to be used on the light side of a side mounted boom for a tractor mounted mower.

Over a winter or so, with water getting into the box and freezing, it began to force the block of lead up and out of the box.

We took the box an lead to use for another application, so needed to melt it out of the steel box and then fill the box clear to the top with the lead.

It was heavy the first go around, but once redone, it was HEAVY!!!!!!!!!!!!

I melted the lead out of that solid block with a torch, and it ran like water it was melting so fast.

Had plenty of fresh air of course, but the Oxy-ace gets er done for sure!!!!!!!!

CDOC

[bowfin]

Get a bigger pot. Really, for 5 bucks at the goodwill my time is worth more than spending too much time cutting things up. 60 lbs is what, 8 inches across? Not that big a pot after all.

The above would be my best suggestion.

[wv109323]

Why not set the lead block up and use it as a target. I would say a 30-06 hole every two inches would reduce it to usable sizes. This would be a lot more fun than using a boring saw,axe heat. Is this a "What gun to use Forum" or a "What tool to use Forum".

[Dale53]

Here's the way I did it - the ingot in the picture weighed 92 lbs.!

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj80/Dale53/QWinter2009andleadsmelting-1767.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj80/Dale53/QWinter2009andleadsmelting-1771.jpg

My brother did the heavy lifting and together we smelted and put into ingot moulds 650 lbs in three hours.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj80/Dale53/QWinter2009andleadsmelting-1769.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj80/Dale53/QWinter2009andleadsmelting-1777.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj80/Dale53/QWinter2009andleadsmelting-1778.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj80/Dale53/QWinter2009andleadsmelting-1780.jpg

That is a turkey/fish fryer from Bass pro (it was on sale at $30.00) with a Harbor Freight six Quart cast iron dutch oven.

Dale53

[dsol]

That Bass Pro fryer looks really familiar! Got one just like it and it does a great job with a big cast iron pot I found at a yard sale for $5. I have a big 100lb solid piece, probably too big to do at one time, but I think if I split it in two, it should work just fine.

[Longwood]

Quite a bit of the lead that I scrounge seem to come in long ingots.
Be extremely careful when melting them in smaller pots than they will fit in.
As they melt, they will slowly slide down into the pot until the cold end that is sitting at an angle falls down into the molten lead.
That is when a sheet of molten lead can squirt from under the cold ingot up over the lip of the pot.
It can coat a good sized area a good distance from the pot.
If you look at the photo of the partially molten ingot you can see where it did exactly that.
STAND ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE POT so that sheet of molten lead does not get on you.

[guidogoose]

Quite a bit of the lead that I scrounge seem to come in long ingots.
Be extremely careful when melting them in smaller pots than they will fit in.
As they melt, they will slowly slide down into the pot until the cold end that is sitting at an angle falls down into the molten lead.
That is when a sheet of molten lead can squirt from under the cold ingot up over the lip of the pot.
It can coat a good sized area a good distance from the pot.
If you look at the photo of the partially molten ingot you can see where it did exactly that.
STAND ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE POT so that sheet of molten lead does not get on you.

Been there done that! Not only did I have a big mess to clean but had cold lead to boot!

[Frank V]

If it's just a 60# ingot just use a big ole cold chisel and a 3# hammer to cut chunks off. Easy with soft lead and no "lead dust" from any saw action. I have also built a tripod and hung ingots up and put a pan under them and melt off with a soldering torch. All the stuff mentioned will work, just which you wanna use. 10


I have used a cold chisel before, it works. You might get away with cutting it in half & half may fit into your pot.
Frank

[Shiloh]

I did it with a splitting wedge and a sledge hammer.
Sounds like the SawZall is the better way to go. I don't have a SawZall anymore.

Shiloh

[Alan in Vermont]

I also have read of using a weed burner, but don't reccomend it.
Our normal smelting and casting temps are well below that, required to vaporize lead. When applying a weed burner to lead, the surface can well exceed safe temps.

I have a problem with some of the cautions I see tossed about in this thread. Seems like sometimes there is a tendency to imagine demons lurking in the shadows.

I can't see where a weedburner is going to cause vapors. Once the lead gets to melting temp where the torch flame is on it it's going to melt and run away, exposing cooler lead. One would have to contain the entire ingot, and melt it completely, before the temperature of the molten metal would rise much above the melting point of the lead.


A circular saw creates a LOT of shavings. AND when/while they're coming off the saw, they're hot and hit with force. Remember you're creating a large lead contaminated area with fine lead shavings.

I've never sawn lead with a circular saw but I have cut aluminum. I have no doubt the lead "sawdust" would be hot and could cut exposed skin, I know from experience that AL does both. But I really doubt that there will be any "fine" shavings and certainly nothing that would become airborne beyond a few inches. I think that crowding the saw as hard as it could stand would minimize any small chips.

I think I'd try a blade made for salvage/nail embedded lumber, they are available, although some places not readily, and use a different tooth configuration and carbide type. Kept well oiled they run through AL quite rapidly. Cutting from both sides it should be possible to get through a 4" section, maybe in several increasingly deep passes. Face shield, long sleeves, maybe even welders leather sleeves, and gloves for sure.

[Longwood]

A turkey fryer will work sideways.
Put something under the brick and prop the stove up against it.

[Iron Mike Golf]

If you go the reciprocating saw route, look for a demolition blade. I think those are the fewest teeth per inch and are expected to cut framing nails. Should do the trick just fine.

[snuffy]

Quote:
Originally Posted by snuffy View Post
A circular saw creates a LOT of shavings. AND when/while they're coming off the saw, they're hot and hit with force. Remember you're creating a large lead contaminated area with fine lead shavings.
Hmmmm, must be doing something wrong as mine only flung swarf 8-10". And they were easy to collect with broom and dustpan, no more than 1/4lb at most.

I used a combination carbide tipped blade on a B&D "SKILL" saw. It's agressive blade and a lot of pitch insured it would not bind in the cut.

I suppose a fine tooth blade would not throw chips very far, but could be plugged and bind quite easily.


I did it with a splitting wedge and a sledge hammer.
Sounds like the SawZall is the better way to go. I don't have a SawZall anymore.

The reason I posted the link to the harbor freight saw was to show something half the price of the cheapest sawsall on the home depot site;

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100055104/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=sawsall&storeId=10051

It works just like the Milwaukee saw, BUT of course the quality is not the same.

[41 mag fan]

What is the best/easiest way to reduce the size of a 60 lb ingot if it wont fit in your pot? Hack saw? Electric miter saw?

Send it to me, i'll send you back the piece that'll fit into your pot!! :bigsmyl2:

[Longwood]

I sometimes cut aluminum sheet wit a skill type saw.
I have cut a thick as 1/4" and as long as I used a straight edge, thing go smoothly.
I tape over vents in the saw or wrap it in a plastic bag so the chips do not get sucked into it.
It won't over heat if you don't dilly dally.

[blackthorn]

For what it MAY be worth---when the contractor put the metal roof on my cabin, he used a skillsaw with the blade mounted to the saw backward to cut the sheets. I have NO idea if that would have any application cutting lead!