Marlin Rear Site...

[BCB]

This is the rear sight on an older Marlin 336…

Note the screw on the right side…

Is this for adjusting windage? And does anyone know which way the point of impact changes by which way the screw is turned?

Also, not the crude shim. The rifle shoots quite low. This shim raised the P.O.I, approximately 2” at 25 yards. At 75 yards, the P.O.I. is still about 5” low…

I want to be able to put a bridge under this site, but it most likely will make it shoot a mile high even on the first step of a bridge. Is there any way I can put a bridge under it without replacing the front sight with a taller one?

I remember this lever gun with a bridge many many years ago—I suppose it came from the factory that way…

Any thoughts…

Thanks…BCB

[Doc Highwall]

That screw is for adjusting elevation. Windage is by drifting the front and rear sights in the dovetails.

[BCB]

So, I can adjust the height of the back site with that screw...

Does insert in the rear sight move as the screw is turned, or does that loosen the insert and it must be moved manualy?...

Guess I will need to get a tool to move the front sight? Probably expensive, but one visit to a compatent 'smith will pay for part of it I suppose. Plus, I don't know how they would know how much to move it. Well, guess they actually could know...

The screw on the site is tight or maybe even seized. I did attemt to turn it, but "no go". I didn't put the marks on it. Sprayed some PB Blaster on it and will wait to see if it loosens...

Might touch it with a solder iron...

Thanks...BCB

[btroj]

The screw just hold the insert in place. Loosen the screw, make you adjustment, tighten the screw.
You can see why many people don't move the sight once they get it right, it isn't very "repeatable" at all.

All the is needed to move any sight in a dovetail is a brass punch or rod and a hammer. You can drift either the front or the rear sight if you want.

Drifting a dovetailed sight is something any shooter should know how to do. Very easy, very basic.

[BCB]

I was afraid the screw just held the insert in place!!!

With my eyes, it could be a bit "dangerous" to move it as it certainly only needs move a tad to change P.O.I. alot...

Guess I will give it a try though...

Will do the brass punch thing also...

Suppose I best load up another box of 311041's as there might be considerable shooting during adjustment!!!...

Thanks...BCB

[btroj]

Yes, take lots of ammo.
Fire a couple, adjust, fire a couple more. Once you get close fire 4 or 5 to get a feel for the groups center.

Once you get the sights right you will not want to move them.

[CATS]

You may want to invest in a cheep set of gunsmith screw drivers so that you do not strip the top off of that little screw.

[pietro]

You may also want to consider marking the present sight position(s), prior to moving them, so the amount of movement can be readily seen.

I use a lead pencil mark, on a very small piece of yellow masking tape, fixed temporarily in an appropriate position on either the sight or barrel.

.

[Mk42gunner]

I wouldn't even worry about using that screw to move the insert until you get an elevation step ( the little notched ladder that has four to six steps) for the sight. The insert probably won't move enough to move POI 5" at 75yards.

Your local gunsmith/ scope mounter probably has several laying on his bench. If not they don't cost much from Brownell's.

Robert

[BCB]

Thanks all...

I did manage to get the front sight moved and I am centered...

I do have good screwdrivers, but I agree the way to go might be with a ramp or a ladder type as Mk42gunner mentioned...

I did ask for one of them at local gun shop and the guy said he needed the rifle to order the correct one. That was the guy who does the 'smith work there...

I thought they were all sort of the "same". OR are they specific for the type of rear sight that is installed on the rifle?...

Might Google Brownell...

BCB

[2152hq]

The ladders are specific to the sight manufacture, though many can be made to 'work' well enough when switched around on other brands.
They vary in thickness and length more than anything according to the manufacture of the sight they match.
I think the placement of the small steps on them is kind of random actually.

You just need one to get that rear sight up a bit so you can get your groups to the point of aim at normal ranges.

That small insert held with the set screw is for tiny adjustments in elevation between the ladder steps.
They are a pain because of the small screw that's usually jammed in there. The screwdriver slot can strip out as well as the head itself twist off.
Touch it with a soldering gun is a good way to concentrate some heat on that small screw and get it to loosen up and turn.

Also, most allow the insert itself to be flip over 180 degrees showing a different style sight notch. One has a U shape usually and the other a square cut,,maybe a V.
Usually the ladder will get you as close as you need to be unless you're looking for some real precision stuff. Then you have to monkey with that insert and loosen/tighten the screw thing for adjustment.

Where have all the 'Gun Shops' gone that used to have a jar or box full of take off sight elevators they'd spread in front of you on the counter. Let you paw through them, pick out what you needed and you paid the man.

"We'll have to order that".....I love hearing that..

Good luck with your rifle,,they are nice shooters.
..Have you got the swivel mounted on the side of the forend?

[nanuk]

what I did with an old .22 we wanted to sight in at 75yds, was to get a piece of steel the thickness of the slot, and cut a piece to make a very thin slice of pie, and push it into the slot to slowly bring up the height. When we had it where we wanted, we marked and measured, then filed a rough piece to fit permanently....

now that I am older and far lazier, I'd just build up your shim with aluminum tape one piece at a time until the height is reached, then measure the height, THEN file a piece of steel to fit.

[BCB]

Yea, there are many options to get the rear sight at the correct height…

I did move the front sight to get P.O.I. centered…

The rear sight is a Marbles brand name. No numbers on it to designate which one it is. I went to Brownell and there are many with this name. Short ones and long ones. This rifle appears to have a long rear sight…

I remember the rifle as a kid and it did have a rump with it. I also remember when I first reloaded ammo for this rifle that it shot a mile high. I suspect that is why the ramp is gone and now lost. My dad must have removed it to attempt to get the rifle to shoot much lower with the reloads he was using. Can’t really recall…

But, I believe that in order to get the ramp, or a completely new rear sight with ramp, the front sight will need changed also, to a taller one to allow the ramp to be moved for the rear sight. It is sort of a “start over” process…

The problem for me would be which rear sight to order and which height front sight to order to get them in sync so adjustments can be made using the ramp, and then if need be, the insert…

A bit more research will be required—possible an e-mail to Brownell if they have that available…

But, I have learned a lot from this thread and I am now getting ready to make the move to get it working…

I wonder if the Marbles sight was from the factory?...

The rifle serial number indicates it was made in 1948...

It is a Model 336-R.C.

Yep, the swivels are mounted on the side of the forearm and side of the stock—I wonder why that was done. Seems a bit strange and awkward to me…

It is a good shooter with the 311041. I am hitting 12-ounce beverage cans at 50 yards with pretty good consistency. For me, that is very acceptable…

Any other info—post it…

Thanks…BCB

[MBTcustom]

I can make you a new rear sight ramp from scratch if you can provide me with two critical dimentions. PM me.