Rapine Mould Prep

[NCI]

Hello, does anyone use Rapine Mould Prep? I've used it on used molds, and my roundball bag mold, but I've got a new Lyman and I wasn't sure if I should use the Rapine, or follow Lyman instructions. Thanks for any advice.

[dromia]

If you have to use mould prep on your moulds then you have a problem with the mould and the source of that problem should be found and dealt with.

Mould prep at best hides a problem for a while.

I don't like anything 'tween the alloy and the mould.

Why do you use mould prep?

[NCI]

The reason I have the Rapine Mould Prep is because it came with my Rapine bag mold. The mold instructions said to use it. I have used it on some old Lee and Lyman molds because they were not in very good shape. I just wasn't sure if it was worth using on a new mold. Thanks.

[Larry Gibson]

I use the Rapine mould prep on all my moulds, aluminum, iron and brass. It works extremely well on all. It is a graphite solution that dries quickly and leaves the graphite. I put it on alignment pins, top of the mould and the top and bottom of the sprue plate. I use a Q tip to apply it. I've just onebotte left and will lament it's passing......good stuff.

Larry Gibson

[NCI]

Thanks Larry! I guess I will have to use my one bottle Very sparingly! Ron

[Dale53]

I find Rapine mould prep (microfine graphite in a denatured alcohol base) to be THE fix for a Mihec hollow point pin that is a bit reluctant to drop the bullet.

My moulds are lubed with Bullshops Sprueplate lube.

Dale53

[NCI]

Thanks Dale53. Ron

[44man]

Wonderful stuff that does not have a buildup.
Ray Pine was a great mold maker until he retired. We lost a wonderful man to retirement. May he be happy.

[Larry Gibson]

Wonderful stuff that does not have a buildup.
Ray Pine was a great mold maker until he retired. We lost a wonderful man to retirement. May he be happy.

Wish I'd have also got more of his moulds while he was at it!

Larry Gibson

[fecmech]

Two products that might be very similar, Dryslide and Dow Corning 321. They are both graphite/moly sprays that dry pretty quick and have a thin film.

[stubshaft]

Been sing mine sparingly too. I have about 3/4ths of a bottle left, which should last me for the rest of my life.

[Bret4207]

I am not a fan of anything in the cavity, However, a graphite solution, or powered graphite like I use, on the pins and wear points work pretty well. From what I've seen most people use way too much mould prep products when they use them. If you have a mould that has to have it, use the least amount possible. Same for smoke.

[Larry Gibson]

Smoking a cavity or using any mould release product also, most often, results in smaller than nominal diameter bullets. I also don't put anything in the cavities except alloy.

Larry Gibson

[NCI]

Thanks everyone! Ron

[44man]

Proper coatings in the cavities are only microns thick. I have been unable to measure boolit diameter differences.
I use many of my molds with nothing in the cavities but I use mold prep in all other places. If I coat the cavities, there is no measurable change.

[NCI]

Thanks guys, I appreciate everyones input! Ron

[MtGun44]

+1 on dromia and Bret.

Bill

[44man]

If you have to use mould prep on your moulds then you have a problem with the mould and the source of that problem should be found and dealt with.

Mould prep at best hides a problem for a while.

I don't like anything 'tween the alloy and the mould.

Why do you use mould prep?
It lubes! Ultra fine graphite. It is great on a sprue plate and around the pivot screw. Lead does not stick.
I put it all over the outside of a mold so lead spills are shed. I put it on Lee alignment pins. Does like Bullplate.
Yes I have stuck it in cavities too with no bad results.
It works for while on the ladle nose too.
It does no harm in any case no matter where it gets unlike oils and waxes that creep where you don't want the stuff.
I have dry spray graphite, it is too thick as is the moly spray.
Mould Prep is even thinner then smoke.