Wheel weights plus???

[marklyftogt]

I have been told the Lyman #2 formula is a good one to use. It says 90% wheel weights plus 10% 50/50 lead/tin solder.

The solder i can find is expensive. Is there another way?

Thanks, I am a newbie to casting and want to figure it all out before I get started.

edit: I plan on making bullets for .357 magnum and I load on the light end. I just mostly shoot holes in paper.

[bumpo628]

Welcome to the site!

Lyman #2 is actually 5% tin, 5% antimony, 90% lead. The formula you found is kind of an approximation on the antimony side since there is no way WWs have 5% antimony. They have been found to actually have 1.5% to 3% antimony.

I would just try the WW as is. Most people find that they cast well for just about everything. Another popular mix for lower velocity boolits is 50/50 WW and pure with about 2% tin added.

[WRideout]

I use straight WW in my .38 spl, and am completely happy with that. Good fillout, and hard enough for the purpose. Alloy composition depends on your use. Wayne

[WilliamDahl]

I'm not a long range shooter, so sub-MOA accuracy is not a prime consideration for me. As such, I've been satisfied with just using straight WW alloy, maybe running it a bit hotter for better fill out.

[LUCKYDAWG13]

i like to use a 50/50 mix WW and range lead in my pistols

[jabo52521]

I mix 9 pounds WW and a pound of chilled shot for just about everything I shoot.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I have been told the Lyman #2 formula is a good one to use. It says 90% wheel weights plus 10% 50/50 lead/tin solder.
The solder i can find is expensive. Is there another way?
Thanks, I am a newbie to casting and want to figure it all out before I get started.

Welcome Mark,
you've found the best casting site there is.
you have been given some good advice so far,
it'd help if you tell us what caliber, gun and application your shooting is.
WW's with a little tin covers many bases.

BUT, to better answer your questions.
your recipe will not get you Lyman #2
there are members that sell solder here, usually around $4 to $6 per lb.
also available is pure tin.
Linotype is the cheapest source of antimony for blending lead alloys
to get Lyman #2 if that is what you want. Linotype will run you
about $1.50 to $2.50 per lb.

http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm
this link is always at the bottom of this page.
some good reading on boolit alloys
scroll 3/4 of the way down the linked page
and you'll see many recipes for blending
various known scrap alloys to get a desired
boolit alloy.
hope this helps,
Jon

[avogunner]

I've never been too picky when it comes to the alloy for pistol (.45 ACP, .38 spl, .45 LC) and I've never really seen the absolute need for Lyman #2 for my handguns. Straight range lead, straight WW, or a mix of the two have always suited me and have given more than satisfactory results. Playing with different mixes of alloys is fun though (get Bumpo's alloy calculator) and can have benefits in certain situations, like hunting boolits or magnum pistol.

Casting is good for the soul so enjoy the journey.

[paul h]

I have been told the Lyman #2 formula is a good one to use. It says 90% wheel weights plus 10% 50/50 lead/tin solder.

The solder i can find is expensive. Is there another way?

Thanks, I am a newbie to casting and want to figure it all out before I get started.

edit: I plan on making bullets for .357 magnum and I load on the light end. I just mostly shoot holes in paper.

Lyman #2 is good, straight ww's is good, ww's with 2% tin added is good, 50/50 ww's with soft lead or range scrap is good, 50/50 w/ 2% tin added is good.

What you can consistantly find at a good price is the best alloy. It used to be I had no problems getting 5 gal buckets of ww's, so that's what I used. Now wheelweights aren't so easy to find so I'm mixing my ww's w/ straight lead so I can make my ww stash last longer.

The 357 mag at mild to medium levels is not picky about the alloy you use. Fiddling with an alloy is way down my list on things to tinker with to produce accurate cast bullets. If I have to go down that road for a paticular gun or load I will, but seldom have I had to go that route.

[WilliamDahl]

I figure that if you have to fiddle with your alloy for a particular load, it's time to get a caliber that is not so picky such as any of the rounds that were originally black powder rounds. Yeah, you can fiddle around with alloys and loads to get a cast .270 to work or you can just switch to a .45-70. Where I hunt, the brush is so thick that you're lucky to be able to see 50 yds anyway.