New caster looking to get started..

[Justin Appleseed]

Looking for a shopping list of the best equipment, what do I need to get started? Been reading on here for awhile, started reloading and now looking to compleat the addiction!

Not looking to cut any corners, willing to spend the extra money for better quality, ease of use, and best warranty.

Looking to everyone for their wisdom in putting together the best casting setup.

Ordered the Lyman 4th Edition Cast Bullet Handbook, any other books/manuals that will help me?

Can't wait to get started, thanks in advance to everyone who helps out!
God Bless!

[bobthenailer]

I would see if a member of this fourm or someone else locally would mentor you in the art of bullet casting to see if you really like it first before spending any money ! if you like it buy first class equipment the first time if you can afford it ? if not buy Lee equipment to get started.
First item is lots of reasonably priced alloy to have on hand and various sources where you can get alloy in the furture . it depends on how heavy the bullets are & how much you shoot but 100 lbs doesent go very far! approx # of bullets 125 gr 5,600 , 200gr 3,500 , 300 gr 2,300

[smokinthelast1]

I am in the same boat as you. After taking the beat down, I have decide to make a bunch of ingots first on the cheap very cheap! At that point if all goes well here is my list but still may change many times before I pull the trigger!





Lyman Lube and Sizer Die 358 Diameter

Product #: 434608


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Available

$22.99

Lyman Mini-Mag Furnace Master Casting Kit 110 Volt

Product #: 573247
$187.99
MTM Flip-Top Ammo Box 380 ACP, 9mm Luger 50-Round Plastic Blue

Product #: 523260

Lee Breech Lock Quick Change Bushings Package of 2

Bullet Lube 4 oz Liquid

Product #: 466811

Lee 6-Cavity Bullet Mold TL356-124-2R 9mm Luger, 38 Super, 380 ACP (356 Diameter) 124 Grain Tumble Lube 2 Ogive Radius
Commercial Bullet Mold Handles for 6-Cavity Lee Bullet Molds

Bullet Mold TL452-230-2R 45 ACP, 45 Auto Rim, 45 Colt (Long Colt) (452 Diameter) 230 Grain Tumble Lube 2 Ogive Radius



Lyman Top Punch #374

Product #: 307803
Lube and Sizer Die 452 Diameter

Product #: 435551
Top Punch #637

Product #: 733504

Lyman Orange Magic Hollow Bullet Lube

Product #: 521810

[Justin Appleseed]

I have about 3000# of WW that I've collected so far, there's a mom/pop's tire shop down the road that's always busy, they where tickled to have me haul off everything, and I said I'll come by once a week, they were beyond happy... I have nothing to make ingots with? No smelting pot.. Ect. I have 1000$ set aside so far to get started, and yes I want the best equipment, I've set my mind to it, no going back now.

[Justin Appleseed]

Even if I don't load everything right away, I plan on casting so many "lots" in each cal that I reload.. So I have a good stock on hand, that way I can reload without worrying about running out. Guess you could say I want my own surplus of ammo in the cal I shoot.

[swamp]

Justin,
If you let people know the area you are in, I am sure someone would give you some face to face help. If I was close I would let you get some experience smelting and casting on my equipment. That way you can find out what works best for you.

swamp

[shadowcaster]

When I first started, there was no one that I knew local to help me out, but I had done some smelting prior to that, for other various projects. I found this site on the net and it has been a tremendous help. Great bunch of guys here willing to share their knowledge. There are also a few good videos out there on smelting and casting. I recommend Iraqveteran8888 and Cowboy T on Youtube. With a trip to the thrift store and a heat source you can try doing a small pot for not much money invested. That will come later. Basic safety gear is needed too.

Happy smelting/casting :castmine:

Shad

[1874Sharps]

Justin Appleseed:

You were indeed fortunate to have had opportunity to collect WW over the years from a local tire store! Do you know what 3000 pounds of WW is worth these days?!!! I agree with the folks above. It is a good thing for all of us that the basics of casting are not all that hard to grasp or to perform. However, there is also alot of technique, finess and art to this business of casting that you certainly coud learn by trial and error (and much frustration), but it would sure be handy to have a teacher. The Lyman manual is a good reference and should be sufficient to get the casting going. Good luck with it!

[Justin Appleseed]

When I first started, there was no one that I knew local to help me out, but I had done some smelting prior to that, for other various projects. I found this site on the net and it has been a tremendous help. Great bunch of guys here willing to share their knowledge. There are also a few good videos out there on smelting and casting. I recommend Iraqveteran8888 and Cowboy T on Youtube. With a trip to the thrift store and a heat source you can try doing a small pot for not much money invested. That will come later. Basic safety gear is needed too.

Happy smelting/casting :castmine:

Shad

I will defiantly look over everything they have! Thank you! As far as local? The only guy I know of is a grumpy old fart that knows everything.. I try to stay clear of him.. So I'll ask around my LGS's.

[Justin Appleseed]

Justin Appleseed:

You were indeed fortunate to have had opportunity to collect WW over the years from a local tire store! Do you know what 3000 pounds of WW is worth these days?!!! I agree with the folks above. It is a good thing for all of us that the basics of casting are not all that hard to grasp or to perform. However, there is also alot of technique, finess and art to this business of casting that you certainly coud learn by trial and error (and much frustration), but it would sure be handy to have a teacher. The Lyman manual is a good reference and should be sufficient to get the casting going. Good luck with it!

Have no idea of its worth? Was told that WW was best for casting and started looking around. I was expecting to pay something for them but when they said I could dispose of them for free I didn't argue. Now I have a small weekly supply.

[Justin Appleseed]

So what are the brands that I'm looking for? What should I stay away from?
Like I said I'm in it for the long haul, so I want the best equipment that will last me with little to no worries. And what does a basic set up consist of to get started? As far as molds go, that's wear I want to have the top of the line, I'm all about accuracy, and anal about perfection... Above all, safety! So anything you have learned about do's and don'ts will be much appreciated!
Thanks for everything so far!

[Ickisrulz]

So what are the brands that I'm looking for? What should I stay away from?
Like I said I'm in it for the long haul, so I want the best equipment that will last me with little to no worries. And what does a basic set up consist of to get started? As far as molds go, that's wear I want to have the top of the line, I'm all about accuracy, and anal about perfection... Above all, safety! So anything you have learned about do's and don'ts will be much appreciated!
Thanks for everything so far!

RCBS makes nice off the shelf molds. Accurate Molds makes molds to order and they are well liked and beautiful. There are other custom mold makers you can read about on this site. You just have to know what you want/need.

If you are going to bottom pour, RCBS' Pro-melt pot is highly regarded. If you want to ladle cast, the Waage pot seems like one of the nicest. A Lee Magnum Melter would work well too. You can add a PID for extreme control or watch a thermometer carefully. Rotometals (as well as others) sell nice casting thermometers.

Star Lube/Sizers are considered the best machine for sizing and lubing bullets. While this is true, many actually prefer to use push through Lee dies and pan lube.

You should know what you need, what you like and the way you prefer to do things before spending a lot of money. This is why people have suggested casting with someone else's equipment. At the very least, watch some Youtube videos and see what appeals to you.

[Justin Appleseed]

RCBS makes nice off the shelf molds. Accurate Molds makes molds to order and they are well liked and beautiful. There are other custom mold makers you can read about on this site. You just have to know what you want/need.

If you are going to bottom pour, RCBS' Pro-melt pot is highly regarded. If you want to ladle cast, the Waage pot seems like one of the nicest. A Lee Magnum Melter would work well too. You can add a PID for extreme control or watch a thermometer carefully. Rotometals (as well as others) sell nice casting thermometers.

Star Lube/Sizers are considered the best machine for sizing and lubing bullets. While this is true, many actually prefer to use push through Lee dies and pan lube.

You should know what you need, what you like and the way you prefer to do things before spending a lot of money. This is why people have suggested casting with someone else's equipment. At the very least, watch some Youtube videos and see what appeals to you.

Excellent, started the YouTube videos last night.. Yes the bottom pour looks the best route, are the custom molds the way to go for accuracy? I'm looking to reload/cast .380, 9x19, .38spl, .556, 7.62x39, and .308... The star lube sizer looks the way to go, THANK YOU for everything.

[Ickisrulz]

Excellent, started the YouTube videos last night.. Yes the bottom pour looks the best route, are the custom molds the way to go for accuracy? I'm looking to reload/cast .380, 9x19, .38spl, .556, 7.62x39, and .308... The star lube sizer looks the way to go, THANK YOU for everything.

Custom molds can give you a better fit IF you know what to tell the maker to do for you. This can lead to better accuracy.

Having $1000 to spend on equipment will not buy the experience you need for top quality results. But, getting better equipment can eliminate some frustration.

[shadowcaster]

Originally Posted by Justin Appleseed View Post
So what are the brands that I'm looking for? What should I stay away from?
Like I said I'm in it for the long haul, so I want the best equipment that will last me with little to no worries. And what does a basic set up consist of to get started? As far as molds go, that's wear I want to have the top of the line, I'm all about accuracy, and anal about perfection... Above all, safety! So anything you have learned about do's and don'ts will be much appreciated!
Thanks for everything so far!



Having $1000 to spend on equipment will not buy the experience you need for top quality results.

Being a quality minded individual myself I get where you are coming from in wanting the best. Sometimes the best is based on personal needs and function, not the dollar. Don't discount the Lee products just because they are less expensive. Many casters here use them with excellent results.

Get your feet wet for a couple hundred bucks.. maybe you won't like it. NOT!! :-) I recommend starting with the Lee pro 4 20 pound bottom pour pot (about sixty dollars) and one or two molds (about 20 dollars each). Even if you purchase another pot later, owning 2 pots is a good thing. Having 2 pots side by side, you have hot alloy ready when you need it. If you are going to do any size smelting I say buy a turkey fryer (about 50 dollars) it will do both large and small batches. Also.. pick up a stainless steel or cast iron pot, ladle and ingot molds. This is how I got hooked, and began to add to my equipment.

Slow down a little.. Continue to do your research.. There is much to be learned.

Shad

[Justin Appleseed]

And then I saw the $$$... Lmao! I believe the Lyman or RCBS lube/sizers are the same thing? Without the name brand prices... Also after sizing/lube, how long will it last? Shelf life if not loaded right away? Can it be stored in plastic tupperware, will the lube dry out?

[Justin Appleseed]

Sounds good! Yes I'm putting in the research/reading/watching before buying anything. Doesn't have to be the most expensive, I just want quality that will produce accuracy, as well as be durable, and last. I noticed there is a lot of products that are for mass casting.. 4000k an hour? Geez! I'm looking more around 20-50rd of each cal. per sitting. So maybe 2-300 hundred boolits a session.

[C.F.Plinker]

And then I saw the $$$... Lmao! I believe the Lyman or RCBS lube/sizers are the same thing? Without the name brand prices... Also after sizing/lube, how long will it last? Shelf life if not loaded right away? Can it be stored in plastic tupperware, will the lube dry out?

Lyman and RCBS lubesizers work on the same principle but there are differences in their design mostly in the mechanism that moves the lube plunger up and down. The Lyman also comes in a version with a heater included. You can keep your lubed boolits for quite a while -- at least months if not several years if they are kept at room temperature so the lube can't run. I store the boolits in old coffee cans until I am ready for a loading session, then lube them and load them within a couple of days. After they are loaded I store the cartridges in 50 round boxes until they make their trip to the range. When I make sticks of lube I wrap them in plastic wrap from the kitchen and keep the wrapped sticks in plastic coffee cans until I need to refill the sizer. I have some Javelina sticks that have been stored for over 30 years and are still good as new.

[C.F.Plinker]

Sounds good! Yes I'm putting in the research/reading/watching before buying anything. Doesn't have to be the most expensive, I just want quality that will produce accuracy, as well as be durable, and last. I noticed there is a lot of products that are for mass casting.. 4000k an hour? Geez! I'm looking more around 20-50rd of each cal. per sitting. So maybe 2-300 hundred boolits a session.

I have the RCBS Pro Melt pot. It holds 22 pounds when full and I can get about 400 boolits out of it in about an hour of casting time if I run it until it is empty. More if I returned the sprues to the pot as I cast. I generally just cast one or two types of boolit per session. Accuracy will depend on whether your partickular rifle or pistol likes that particular boolit. Now having said that I generally expect to be able to cut the group that a hunting type factory load will shoot almost in half by finding the boolit, powder, powder charge, and primer which that partickular rifle or pistol likes. Some will shoot better than others and the only way to find out is to try them.

[Echo]

JA, I'm going to second the notion of your starting slow, & less expensively, with Lee equipment. I have several Lee molds that I use often, and they do a good job. I also have several custom molds, many Lyman/RCBS/H&G molds (over 100, actually), but still use the Lee's for what they do. I do a lot of casting out of what I call my Cute Little Thing, a Potter 3-pound pot that I run through a light dimmer because it has no control. Great for casting up 30-40 boolits for test purposes. I also have a couple of SAECO's, &cetera. I don't have a Lee 10-pounder at present, but I used one for many years, and they are fine.
I have a Star lube/sizer, but also have a couple of Lachmillers (predecessors of the RCBS LAMs) that I use for GC boolits, using the Star basically for non-GC pistol boolits. And I also use the Lee sizing system often, as well as the Mule Snot/45-45-10 tumble lube process because it works.
Once you are sure that boolit casting is your thing, then feel free to advance to more sophisticated equipment.

[Justin Appleseed]

I have the RCBS Pro Melt pot. It holds 22 pounds when full and I can get about 400 boolits out of it in about an hour of casting time if I run it until it is empty. More if I returned the sprues to the pot as I cast. I generally just cast one or two types of boolit per session. Accuracy will depend on whether your partickular rifle or pistol likes that particular boolit. Now having said that I generally expect to be able to cut the group that a hunting type factory load will shoot almost in half by finding the boolit, powder, powder charge, and primer which that partickular rifle or pistol likes. Some will shoot better than others and the only way to find out is to try them.

400 per pot sounds perfect! Ok so that answers my mold question as far as accuracy.. Is there a certain mold/shape that's better than the rest? What is the difference with the amount of rings you chose to mold into the boolit? Is that dependent on cal? Length of boolit? Something to do with the seating/crimping? I've noticed some have different sizes, shapes, even depths where the lube go's.

[6bg6ga]

My experience is that it depends on the gun. I shoot 45acp and I have 4 different molds with different weights and sizes of bullets. One gun may work better for me with a 230gr round nose while a different gun may not group as well with the same bullet. In my opinion different guns even the same model will group differently with different bullets.

[1874Sharps]

Justin,

I agree with the advise above. It seems like nowadays most of the molds I buy are RCBS but I started out with Lee and still have and use alot of their molds and stuff. I really credit Lee for having opened reloading and bullet casting up to the masses with their quality and thrifty products. RCBS has great stuff, too, and their customer service is second to none, which is one reason why I keep faithfully coming back.

If you were to sell WW ingots on ebay, you would get right around a dollar a pound for them. I would say you have done quite well in accumulating your lead stash!!! WW lead alloy makes good general purpose boolits, too.

[popper]

I'd repeat my comments on smokinthelast1's post. There isn't much 'junk' sold in the reloading/casting business. A few items, but most is just opinion or user problems. Differences in '49 Ford or a new BMW, but both get you down the road.

[paul h]

400 per pot sounds perfect! Ok so that answers my mold question as far as accuracy.. Is there a certain mold/shape that's better than the rest? What is the difference with the amount of rings you chose to mold into the boolit? Is that dependent on cal? Length of boolit? Something to do with the seating/crimping? I've noticed some have different sizes, shapes, even depths where the lube go's.

Some guns are picky, some guns seem to shoot everything well. I think to a large degree many of those issues don't matter. What does matter is a mold that casts a bullet the right size. Undersize bullets rarely if ever shoot well, and 0.001" undersize can be a deal breaker. Also a handgun bullet that is longer tends to be easier to get to shoot accurately, as it has more bearing surface to align the bullet with the barrel. That said, I've had light and hence short bullets shoot exceptionally well.

Personally I'd say getting some lee tumble lube bullets would be a good way to start. I got one of lees 200gr swc tumble lube bullets and it's shot fine out of my 45 acp. I got one of lees 105 gr swc molds which is designed for the 38 sp/357 mag, but also shot well out of my 9mm.

[Justin Appleseed]

That's one thing I was going to ask? "SIZES" I understand that .001 can make a difference.. But what about length? I understand weight as well.. With my .380 anything over 95gr just won't shoot tight groups.. That being said... Is longer always better?? Plus... I load with AA Powders.. Hot & fast burning.. Works with all my current factory boolits... Will that heat up "melt" the cast boolit? If so, is there a way to stop that? Beside a slower powder...

[6bg6ga]

Don't know if this is correct or not but I have been told that the pressure against the base of the bullet will seal the bullet against the bore. Different powders shoot differently so simply changing to a different powder may tighten up the group. Even something as simple as upping the charge by a grain or two can have a difference. So in my opinion there is no such thing as one bullet not shooting in a particular gun. My 45acp (my carry gun a officers stainless model) doesn't seem to like the 200gr semi wad cutter with a load of 5 gr of 231 in it. I finally upped the load to 5.6 and it shoots very very tight with it. One of my other 45acp liked the 5gr 231 load and shot very well with it as is.

Will test out the idea of the 95gr bullet not shooting in the 380 because my wife just got a 380 Walther PPK/S in stainless. I just purchased a used magma mold which is the same as the bore in the PPK/S.

[Catshooter]

Justin & smokin,

Just because you don't know of anyone nearby to help you, doesn't mean there isn't. If you just put your state in your profile location then it can help someone help you. You never know, and there's nothing like hands on help.


Cat

[canyon-ghost]

Smokin,
Lyman Mini-Mag Furnace Master Casting Kit 110 Volt

Product #: 573247
$187.99


I bought this kit twice and use it all the time. It's really not a bad investment. I manage to make a few match grade bullets with it. It's good to find an original casting kit.

Ron

[canyon-ghost]

As far as bullets go, most handguns will handle a flat-nosed mold better.

Semi-automatics usually prefer round nose or a round-flat style. The lube rings aren't all that different. You can choose the new tumble lube Lee styles or go with the usual lube groove (for a lube-sizer).

Some handgun bullet molds will have a little crimp groove on top for the brass to crimp into, that's what the small shallow ring is that you see.

[ncbearman]

WW source (which you have); Linotype; Windproof propane burner; Dutch oven w/lid; Ladle; Ingot moulds; RCBS Pro-Melt; RCBS or Lyman moulds; Mould handles; Lyman lube/sizer; sizer dies; top punches to match; Dual Drum Rock Tumbler; steel media; Dawn dish soap; Lemishine; RCBS case trimmer; 50 cal. ammo boxes to keep all your BOOLITS in :o)

I started re-casting again about 6 months ago. Staying on here and reading helped immensely. The only move I made which I wish I hadn't so far was not going with the Pro Melt. I have the 10# Lee, and I am doing well with it but I wish I would have got the RCBS. Even with a Lee 20# when you cast big bore boolits your pot gets empty real quick.

Here is my post for the small qty. steel media cleaner.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=144383&page=3

Welcome to the addiction :o)

[Justin Appleseed]

Lots of great information guys thank you very much... Another question.. "molds" they have aluminum, brass, and iron..
What are the pros/cons and any advantages? Plus I noticed some ask about what type of alloy your going to use.. Why?

[Ickisrulz]

Lots of great information guys thank you very much... Another question.. "molds" they have aluminum, brass, and iron..
What are the pros/cons and any advantages? Plus I noticed some ask about what type of alloy your going to use.. Why?

The reason mold makers ask for your alloy is to get the correct size you are asking for as different alloys shrink differently when cooled.

This info below is from http://www.accuratemolds.com/FAQ.php

What are some of the properties of the different mold metals?
2024 Aluminum is very durable, light weight, and inexpensive. Its propensity to change temperature quickly is seen by some as a disadvantage, since molds produce their best bullets within a narrow temperature sweet spot.

Ductile Iron is the most durable of the commonly used mold metals. It is easier to maintain a more consistent temperature. It is lighter weight than brass and heavier than aluminum. Its biggest disadvantage is propensity to rust. Iron is rough on delicate boring tools, and thus it is the most expensive.

360 Brass is a bit heavier than iron, and costs less because of ease of machining. It maintains temperature very well, and cavities machine mirror bright. Some see its weight as a disadvantage.

[Wayne Smith]

Justin, you are going at this a most do, and ignoring several basic points. First, do you have a place to do this? It has to be a dedicated place. Second, being "anal" is good and needs to be applied to measurement and record keeping. Do you know how to use a micrometer? That is essential. Have you slugged your barrels yet? Until you do you have no idea what size molds to get.

Settle down, slug your molds and start a record for each gun. Select which gun you will start with and buy a mold for that gun. I would recommend starting with a low pressure cartridge, they are the most forgiving. Good excuse, if you don't have a .38 Special, .45 Colt, or 30-30, to pick up a new gun! Master one gun at a time and allow yourself to climb this learning curve gradually.

[Justin Appleseed]

Justin, you are going at this a most do, and ignoring several basic points. First, do you have a place to do this? It has to be a dedicated place. Second, being "anal" is good and needs to be applied to measurement and record keeping. Do you know how to use a micrometer? That is essential. Have you slugged your barrels yet? Until you do you have no idea what size molds to get.

Settle down, slug your molds and start a record for each gun. Select which gun you will start with and buy a mold for that gun. I would recommend starting with a low pressure cartridge, they are the most forgiving. Good excuse, if you don't have a .38 Special, .45 Colt, or 30-30, to pick up a new gun! Master one gun at a time and allow yourself to climb this learning curve gradually.

I will research "slugging".. I'll be starting off with my .380 first.. I've reloaded for this caliber the most and practice with it as its my EDC. Yes to all the other ?'s..
Im very anal, never satisfied till it's how I want it.. Enjoying everything I learn, but not spending a dime till I've covered everything short of trial and error. Thanks for the help, anything and everything is appreciated!

[canyon-ghost]

As far as molds go, the permanent molds will be the iron molds. They heat up quickly and hold the heat well while casting- they're heavy to hold up with handles on them.

The aluminum molds are light, they heat up slower and dissipate the heat quickly while casting (different technique). They will make thousands of bullets but, they do wear out quicker.

Brass molds, these are for a collector-caster. They are an entirely different technique and considerably higher priced.

Good Luck,
Ron

[guidogoose]

Whoa.....there JA. Crawl before you walk there my friend. As previously mentioned, take your time. I have a Lee pot and Lee molds. They work just fine. Casting is as much art as it is science. Brush up on your swear/ curse words as they will come in handy! Every gun is different and will like some boolits more than others. This is a whole new ball game compared to jacketed bullets. You may need to try different alloys and lubes. There isnt necessarily a one sized fits all approach. Plan on a lot of trial and error. Start with small batches and go shoot them. Thats the only true way you will figure out what works and what doesnt. If you plan on casting in bulk and storing them, lube them as needed. So, after youve burned yourself a couple times, cussed up a storm, scrubbed lead out of your barrel, cleaned up lead that has spilled everywhere, questioned yourself as to why in the hell am I doing this, then you may be ready to jump in with both feet. So, have some patience, you will need it. Good luck!

[H.Callahan]

Brush up on your swear/ curse words as they will come in handy!
Oh, Lord, yes! Probably the #1 thing a serious caster needs.

[smilie=b:

[6bg6ga]

Oh, Lord, yes! Probably the #1 thing a serious caster needs.

[smilie=b:

There are some serious bible thumpers on this forum that will probably pounce on you like flies to horse hockey for saying stuff like that. :dung_hits_fan:

[Justin Appleseed]

I'm actually reading several books on all this, as well as forums, and YouTube of corse.. I understand trial and error.. But I'm anal about everything especially if safety is a major factor. I'm taking it in the same steps I took reloading.. Research, basic set up, one caliber first, testing, then refining.. Once I get the grasp of it, then I'll indulge the rest of my guns to this art.

[John Wayne]

Ahhh, those of us that cling to our guns and Bibles know it was said in jest.

[gsdelong]

Justn where do you live?

[Justin Appleseed]

I live in the Country of Texas

[gsdelong]

Sorry I am a long way away Greg

[Greg B.]

You have already got off to a good start with this site and the Lyman Cast Bullet Manual. Another excellent source is the Los Angeles Silouette Club web site. Check it out. With $1,000.00 you can get a good outfit that will last for many years.

I started about 1973 with a Lee mold, a basic wood handle ladel and a small cast iron pot. Heat source was a Coleman two burner white gas stove. Get a two cavity Lee mold as it is a little faster and if your pistol doesn't like it you havn't spent much and can try something else. If you have lots of wheel weights sort them first. You don't want iron, plastic and especially zinc in the melt. Since used WWs are always dirty, smelt, scrape off the clips and slag, stir and flux and then ladel cast. I use the second burner on low heat to keep the mould hot. I don't put it directly over the flame.

Since I also have an RCBS Pro Melt I use the iron pot to get clean ingots and then put them in the bottom pour. I only put lead and tin that I have bought from a foundry directly in a bottom pour. Lee ingot molds are cheap and functional. This way you are not clogging up the lead spout with dirt. Used dental picks are good for uncloggong the spout. An RCBS Lam 2 is used to size and lube the bullets. I think I bought it about 1976.

Safety items include adequate clothing and gloves, proper ventilation and never get water etc. in the melted alloy. There are probably more but the Lyman book will alert you. Since you are already familiar with the Star lubricator you have probably also seen the Magma equipment. Interesting but expensive.

There are other ways to get started in casting so I am not saying you have to follow this but you have the resources to get started with good quality stuff so plan it out and maybe you can cast for three guns instead of one.

[KCcactus]

I'll add another suggestion to start with Lee gear. Their 20lb bottom pour pot, a couple of 6 cavity molds and some tumble lube will get you started and leave you with most of your $1,000 budget to buy some nice toys later on. If you decide you like casting, you'll find plenty of things you need or want.

You'll also need something to smelt those weights in. You do not want to get all that crud in your casting pot.