60/40 solder 25lbs for 8 bucks

[mto7464]

Since I have a good stash of this should I mix up some #2 alloy like the lyman manual states or use less to save what I have for later dates?

[Maven]

mto, Lyman's #2 alloy is their standard for determining the dimensions ("as cast") of bullets cast from their molds. While it is an excellent alloy, it requires more Sn than necessary, 5%. By using less Sn, e.g., 1% (half that if possible), you'll sacrifice nothing and conserve a very expensive ingredient. Btw, WW's + 1% Sn can be heat-treated so that their BHN (hardness) exceeds that of linotype.

[MakeMineA10mm]

Depends.

If you look upon casting bullets as an experiment and a kick, then do what you want. It's fun making up a little high-tin alloy to experiment with. It will DEFINITELY fill out ALL the little crevices of your mould and give you some really smooth, extremely well filled-out, shiny boolits!

If you look at casting as an extension of reloading to save you money, then for heaven's sake don't waste it like that! (by making #2 alloy). If it's 60/40, I'd put about 1/4-lb of it in a 19.5-lb pot full of WWs and cast away. It will make great bullets that are still not very expensive, but that fill out better and are shinier than straight WWs.

[mto7464]

thanks for the advise. I think I will skip the #2 alloy and try lesser blends.

[Andy_P]

mto, Lyman's #2 alloy is their standard for determining the dimensions ("as cast") of bullets cast from their molds. While it is an excellent alloy, it requires more Sn than necessary, 5%. By using less Sn, e.g., 1% (half that if possible), you'll sacrifice nothing and conserve a very expensive ingredient. Btw, WW's + 1% Sn can be heat-treated so that their BHN (hardness) exceeds that of linotype.

An excellent point that is not generally understood. Lyman #2 was not contrived as the "ultimate bullet alloy", but rather as a way for Lyman to set expectations of those who would buy their molds. Some would believe the same about Linotype - but it's just an existing standard alloy that casters have seized upon.

If you need a consistent alloy, you need to either buy from a foundry, or mix up batches several hundred pounds at a time. You won't know exactly what it is, but it'll be consistent. You really can't make a super-accurate Lyman #2 from wheelweight as you don't know exactly what's in the wheelweight.

I have settled on WW + 2% tin, which covers 95% of my needs.

[686]

andy p if you were to add lion to ww instead of 50-50 or 60-40 . how much to a 100 lb mix would you add?

[Andy_P]

How much would I add? I would save my Lino to use straight or to sell, and use Tin. If I was to mix Lino with WW I'd likely go 50/50 (50 lbs of Lino and 50 lbs of WW). That would give about 2% Tin, and 7-8% Antimony.

If you wanted to make 100 lbs of an alloy very close to Lyman #2, you'd need:

- 79 lbs of WW;
- 17 lbs of Lino; and
- 4 lbs of Tin.

If you just want to be close to Lyman#2 and not add Tin:

- 70 lbs of WW; and
- 30 Lbs of Lino.

[felix]

What might be fun for the experimenter having a bunch of different metals would be to make a mix that has no or minimal slush stage. The advantage would be a mix that would keep the boolits extremely consistent over time, and very likely would allow expert casting as well. Needless to say, the person doing this would have to have the patience of a snail and/or turtle. ... felix

[686]

the last 1000 lb i mixed i was using 10 lb ww-2 lb lion-6 oz 60-40. the bullets look, cast, and shoot good. from what i read here i can do as well and save tin and lion. my supply is not inless. probley can keep getting ww long after lion and 60-40 is gone. i am trying to spread it out. only shoot under 1000 fps. i also have soft lead and range lead i have not mixed yet. i can mix about 150 lb at a time but only take out and re add to the pot about 30 lb at a time. i think this will help heep my mix closser. thanks

[Cherokee]

686 - I try to keep the proportions in the post the same and take half out, then melt more. Later I take the several small lots and melt one ingot from each lot again to get more uniformity in the alloy. This summer I have a bigger pot ready to go for the next WW smelting.

[axxman928]

you guys are doing "monster melts" at one time.Recipies are hard to figure out.
I'm doing about 10lbs at a time.Limited space but nothing but time.(Retired)
What would be the approximate reciepe for getting Lyman #2 alloy in 10lb
melts? Thanks axxman928

[686]

LYMAN LIST it as 9lb ww and 1 lb 50-50 soder

[Springfield]

I add one lb ingot of 60/40 to every 50 lbs of pure lead. Comes out to 9 Brinnell on my LBT tester. Been working great for 3 years with my Big Lube bullets, but they are for slow BP bullets. . For smokeless you might want harder.

[axxman928]

You guys are great and fast too. Think I'll fire up the old Clayton Lambert melt
pot and brew up some Lyman #2. Thanks again.
axxman928

[mto7464]

Well I just melted down 20 lbs of WW to one pound 60/40. Does that sound like a good ratio to start with?

[grumpy one]

If your WW have the traditional composition of 0.5% tin and 4% antimony the alloy you have just mixed is 3.3% tin, 3.8% antimony and about 92.9% lead (depending whether there was a smidgen of arsenic in your WW, that lead figure might be about 0.1% lower).

This will be a very easy-casting alloy, and just about 14 BHN hardness. All very nice except that you could have achieved much the same thing with less solder - the castability advantage you get from the tin content probably doesn't amount to a whole lot once you go above 2%, at these low antimony contents. If you'd used half a pound of solder instead of a pound, you'd have 2% tin, 3.9% antimony, and the same hardness. If you like this first batch, you might try that next time as a cheaper version.

[hivoltfl]

I guess I am not very scientific when it comes to my alloy, I use a Lee 20 pound bottom dripper and if I want a little harder bullet I water drop them and let them nit for about 10 days, If I want them a little harder yet I will harden them in the oven, for my slower hangun plinkers I just air drop em, OH! my mix is WW with enough leadless solder thrown it to make em fill the mold nice generally a quarter pound per pot will do it fine for me.

Rick

[mto7464]

As long as it works fine the price is right considering I paid about 38 cents a pound for the solder. I doubt that I will be a high volume caster like some of you guys so what I have will probably last a long time, unless I get that 45/70 that I've been thinking about (or 444 marlin). You guys are a bad influence.

[kywoodwrkr]

aaxman928,
Where do you get refitting parts for your Clayton Lambert furnaces? Good operational instructions also.
I have a couple plumbers furnaces and small cast pots for same but haven't gotten them fired up-literally, yet.
Would prefer to evaluate, repair and etc each and make sure it's ready for prime time.
Where have you obtained repair components?
I used to help my uncle when soldering eve troughs but that was a life time ago.
Also used irons and smaller furnaces(blowtorches) for that.
Any information, links etc would be appreciated.
Thanks,
DaveP kywoodwrkr

[axxman928]

kywoodwrkr,
Parts are almost nonexistent. Bought several to make 3 that work. Even made my own pump leathers. Had to make burner chambers myself. E-mail me and i'll try and to make a copy of instructions for you.(If I can figure out how to do it.)
axxman928