melter68
06-14-2012, 08:11 AM
Hi Guys,
I will write this up a bit each day and add to it, so bear with me.
So why make a custom stock with recoil springs in, firstly i have a back injuiry and to save money and turn heads at the range, plus us english like one offs.
But to be fair, other people should know how to, so here goes.
So i hope you like the finished job, which i completed 2 years ago, but i did not take pictures during the process.
materials used.
meranti wood 6 inch x 2 inch wide by lenght required
aluminium plate.3 inch wide x 12 inch long
compression springs 3 inch long, 3mm wire, i/s dia 13mm, o/s dia 19mm x2
stainless steel tubing, seamless 16 inch long x i/s dia 20mm
coach bolts/nuts 12mm wide x 6 inch long x2
wahers for coach bolts x 4
tools needed.
wood saw
wood file (rough)
power drill and drill bits
sand paper
metal hach saw
metal file
hammer
wood chisel
ruler
pencil
jigsaw
12mm spanner
First step is to draw around your old stock or draw the shape you want, in my case i got a laminated stock( dragunov) off e bay for a few dollars and drew round that and then i made the out line a bit large to allow for mistakes. Remember you have to allow 4 inch to put the springs in and the end of the stock/butt plate.
second, before you start shaping the wood, you have to do the most important part, make it fit your action, i did this by taking the original stock off and mind was i think a T6 fitting, so all i did was measure out the fitting design/shape on the merante block and usind a wood chisel, hammer and hack saw shaped it out, bit by bit, untill it fitted perfect.
Next is to measure your stock lenght for you, stand up and hold the gun and you will have to put it under your arm because it will be to long, get someone else to mark the blank at your lenght, were it meets you shoulder. Next take off 4 inch to allow for the springs and wood/metal butt plate.
Take the blank off the rifle and cut it. Then cut a 2 inch piece for the wood butt end.
To get the skelton stock draw out the middle to your shape and cut out using drilled holes and a jigsaw.
now to get the correst height, put it back on the rifle and find a comfy height for your cheek and mark, you can always add height later by using water pipe foam insulation too.
Take off the rifle and using a wood file curve the blank top and bottom, just remember to take it easy round the hand grip part, as you can make a comfy fit for your hand.
Next part is to get some compression springs about 75mm long and 19mm wide, made of 3mm wire,
some stainless steel seamless tubing 20mm i/s dia, that the springs will fit into, 16 inch long and 12mm wide coach bolts about 6 inch long, with a long shank on( no thread on next to head ). The basic idea is that the springs will fit into the tubing, so it does not ware the wood down and the coach bolts go through the springs to aline the stock and butt part, leaving a gap of about 1 -1 1/2 inch to compress and reduce recoil and two washers in the butt wood end to save wareand two washers in the stock holes.
So we do this by placing the end butt wood onto the end of the flat bit of the stock(other end from the action) and drill a small hole throught the wood butt end piece, so that it makes a small hole in the stock, get a wood drill that is just bigger than your stainless steel tubing and drill about 1 inch into the 2 inch wood butt piece, put stainless steel tube into both holes, mark and cut, put a washer in the bottom of the hole, this will save ware and stick the tube into the wood with epoxy resin. Drill the other end of the wood butt end with a drill a bit larger than your coach bolts, through the two small pilot holes, remember you need to recess the coach bolt heads too. I did this part without shaping the wood butt end first and shaped it after it all fitted together and working.
You can shape your wood butt end to a shape larger than the stock if you wish.
Next is to cut the two holes in the main stock, about a inch deep, slightly larger than your stainless steel tubing, put the tubing in the hole and mark off the deepth of the hole, cut and put washers in the holles and glue the tubing in, the tube saves ware and keeps the springs in a nice line.
Now all you have to do is assemble, you may have to cut the stock out a bit more were the bolts come out.
Just to finish off, i made a ali plate to fit were the nuts tighten up and i put two nuts on each bolt to lock them or you could use lock nuts.
Also i made a but plate to go over the coach bolts at the rear to hide them and i made another plate to fit over the back of this with a rubber recoil pad on
That was the hard part, remember you can do this bit by bit and take your time, it took me 3 weeks in my own time to complete, but look at the finished stock/fore stock and it saved me about £300.
If you wish if you have any questions please pm or email me.
cheers chris
I will write this up a bit each day and add to it, so bear with me.
So why make a custom stock with recoil springs in, firstly i have a back injuiry and to save money and turn heads at the range, plus us english like one offs.
But to be fair, other people should know how to, so here goes.
So i hope you like the finished job, which i completed 2 years ago, but i did not take pictures during the process.
materials used.
meranti wood 6 inch x 2 inch wide by lenght required
aluminium plate.3 inch wide x 12 inch long
compression springs 3 inch long, 3mm wire, i/s dia 13mm, o/s dia 19mm x2
stainless steel tubing, seamless 16 inch long x i/s dia 20mm
coach bolts/nuts 12mm wide x 6 inch long x2
wahers for coach bolts x 4
tools needed.
wood saw
wood file (rough)
power drill and drill bits
sand paper
metal hach saw
metal file
hammer
wood chisel
ruler
pencil
jigsaw
12mm spanner
First step is to draw around your old stock or draw the shape you want, in my case i got a laminated stock( dragunov) off e bay for a few dollars and drew round that and then i made the out line a bit large to allow for mistakes. Remember you have to allow 4 inch to put the springs in and the end of the stock/butt plate.
second, before you start shaping the wood, you have to do the most important part, make it fit your action, i did this by taking the original stock off and mind was i think a T6 fitting, so all i did was measure out the fitting design/shape on the merante block and usind a wood chisel, hammer and hack saw shaped it out, bit by bit, untill it fitted perfect.
Next is to measure your stock lenght for you, stand up and hold the gun and you will have to put it under your arm because it will be to long, get someone else to mark the blank at your lenght, were it meets you shoulder. Next take off 4 inch to allow for the springs and wood/metal butt plate.
Take the blank off the rifle and cut it. Then cut a 2 inch piece for the wood butt end.
To get the skelton stock draw out the middle to your shape and cut out using drilled holes and a jigsaw.
now to get the correst height, put it back on the rifle and find a comfy height for your cheek and mark, you can always add height later by using water pipe foam insulation too.
Take off the rifle and using a wood file curve the blank top and bottom, just remember to take it easy round the hand grip part, as you can make a comfy fit for your hand.
Next part is to get some compression springs about 75mm long and 19mm wide, made of 3mm wire,
some stainless steel seamless tubing 20mm i/s dia, that the springs will fit into, 16 inch long and 12mm wide coach bolts about 6 inch long, with a long shank on( no thread on next to head ). The basic idea is that the springs will fit into the tubing, so it does not ware the wood down and the coach bolts go through the springs to aline the stock and butt part, leaving a gap of about 1 -1 1/2 inch to compress and reduce recoil and two washers in the butt wood end to save wareand two washers in the stock holes.
So we do this by placing the end butt wood onto the end of the flat bit of the stock(other end from the action) and drill a small hole throught the wood butt end piece, so that it makes a small hole in the stock, get a wood drill that is just bigger than your stainless steel tubing and drill about 1 inch into the 2 inch wood butt piece, put stainless steel tube into both holes, mark and cut, put a washer in the bottom of the hole, this will save ware and stick the tube into the wood with epoxy resin. Drill the other end of the wood butt end with a drill a bit larger than your coach bolts, through the two small pilot holes, remember you need to recess the coach bolt heads too. I did this part without shaping the wood butt end first and shaped it after it all fitted together and working.
You can shape your wood butt end to a shape larger than the stock if you wish.
Next is to cut the two holes in the main stock, about a inch deep, slightly larger than your stainless steel tubing, put the tubing in the hole and mark off the deepth of the hole, cut and put washers in the holles and glue the tubing in, the tube saves ware and keeps the springs in a nice line.
Now all you have to do is assemble, you may have to cut the stock out a bit more were the bolts come out.
Just to finish off, i made a ali plate to fit were the nuts tighten up and i put two nuts on each bolt to lock them or you could use lock nuts.
Also i made a but plate to go over the coach bolts at the rear to hide them and i made another plate to fit over the back of this with a rubber recoil pad on
That was the hard part, remember you can do this bit by bit and take your time, it took me 3 weeks in my own time to complete, but look at the finished stock/fore stock and it saved me about £300.
If you wish if you have any questions please pm or email me.
cheers chris